Breezy_Pete

Yes, pin 5 of the 28-way at the a-pillar connector is the one you've heavily underlined. Column of pins nearest you, 5th one down.

I'll try to attach a word doc I sketched out quickly this morning showing point to point connectivity between each connector downstream of the main 28-way. It was created from a mixture of 'buzzing out' and viewing circuits, from a 2012 car. Will find and add exact loom part number when I'm not sitting outside a pub in the sunshine! There are a bunch of pics of each connector to go with the tables. To be continued... Mirror switch.docx

Grey/blue is power for LEDs that illuminates switches, sorry, not LIN.

That grey/blue wire sounds like the LIN data line that links the window motor modules on each side of the car, and also to the body control module. If not connected I can well imagine the windows will play up. Funnily enough I am in the process of doing a little 'how to' thread on checking mk2 Fabia door looms, I'll push on with it!

It looks like maybe it points at the crankshaft through this hole

Part number 045957147C Position on engine; not sure but close to and pointing at flywheel usually. Probably in behind the coolant pipes that go to the oil cooler.

I will try.

Not the same. Crankshaft sensor is where engine speed (rpm) is measured. What problem are you trying to solve?

Do you have another battery you can fit, in case that one has an internal short?

Yes, I did mean the alternator brushes, but it does seem hard to believe they could wear out completely in one year. Voltage measurement technique sounds good.

Brushes worn down too far to make good contact?

Oh, I see. Is the switch here? LLLParts

The creakiness makes me wonder if maybe one of the sliders that connect glass to lifting mechanism has broken. Investigate by moving both front windows to halfway open and try gently lifting the glass between fingertips, near front and rear of each pane, looking at how much vertical 'play' there is. Compare front/back of pane on each side and compare sides. If there is such a breakage it will result in significantly more movement, but don't be forceful, it'll be readily obvious if there is a breakage. Don't think it'll take VIN, but I use this site for parts lookups lately. More up to date than any other I've found: LLLParts

Yes, very likely the driver's side motor module; almost certainly repairable. Have a read of the thread Nige kindly linked, and drop me a message if interested. 🙂

Hi. It probably is normal in Fabias of this age, but it isn't a drain path that the designers intended, those are at either end of the so-called 'water box' and drain into the wheel arches either side of the car. The removable metal front panel has a foam rubber seal all along its edges, intended to seal the water in, and the wiring has rubber grommets where it comes downward into the engine bay each side. Both of these areas will tend to be leaky on mature Fabias, and can be sealed with the usual Plumber's Gold type sealants if desired. The leaked water probably doesn't present too much of a threat though, so probably not worth doing unless you have some other reason to be delving in that area. Some pics of the drains (horizontal slots through to the wheel arches both sides), general area and sealing efforts here:

Yeah, common failure, snapped off where it attaches to the cam cover? Folks more familiar with the 1.2 tsi will be along very soon.

? What if you've never owned a VW Group diesel but you once thought 'hmm, that might be handy'? Too late to claim for emotional distress that it might have been handy and NOxious?

You need what's called an XZN bit, probably in M8 size, but you could check the size by measuring: triplesquaretable.pdf

Be super-careful with your nut/bolt arrangement for the subframe end of the dogbone mount. The bit of bolt that comes through the captive/welded original nut comes very close to the steering rack tube. Steering racks are sometimes wrecked while doing gearbox/clutch work by people mixing up the bolts and putting a 65mm (gearbox to engine) one back in there instead of the 61mm long original. Those extra 4mm are enough to dent the rack tube when the bolt is tightened, destroying the rack.

Yep.

Fuse 9 or 11 in the group of blade fuses on the battery fuseholder, 5 Amp (red/violet wire coming off it). Changed position with build date some time in 2005 or 2006, can't remember exactly. It's one of the supplies to the fan control unit.

There's one other fuse you could check (will look up in a sec), but if the refrigerant is very low you won't get the compressor being ramped up I think, or even if it is, the pressure rise won't be enough to trigger the fan. Shorting thermoswitch connector contacts can be a way of checking radiator fan function independent of the A/C triggering. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/503932-radiator-fan-relay-switch-de-pin/?do=findComment&comment=5659700 If you happen to have a UV torch you can have a look round the engine bay in low ambient light levels and maybe see leak sources if any dye has ever been added when topping up. I have one you could borrow, probably wouldn't cost too much to post. O-rings in the high pressure side of the circuit are candidates if there's no obvious condenser damage etc.

Check that the contacts that touch the battery are clean, they can corrode or get mucky enough to not make a good connection

Unless there was pressurised gas above the coolant, depressing its level. Take cap off, release excess gas, level rises, warning no longer registers?

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/497987-engine-code-and-why-its-useful-to-know/