Breezy_Pete

You'll be able to wrestle them out from inside, I expect, but it'll likely bust bits of the inner handle/lock support framework so be prepared with known good spares I suggest. Big job, luckily not too hampered by rivetted on carriers. I'd cross the bridge if you ever come to it; it would be much easier to open the one locked door from inside with a cunning trick like the one described here: https://www.volkswagenforum.co.uk/threads/9n3-doorlocks.40502/

CHFA is a 6-valver, 12-valve is 70bhp in mk2s. Might last some time, might not. It would have to be very cheap to be worth a gamble I reckon.

Harvey has done a few in-depth videos of various aspects of the door locks, but if both are currently in and working, why do you need to remove them? HatBoyHarvey - YouTube

The car looks like a right chav-wagon; sticker city. The engine looks like a bewildering, unfamiliar mess of stuff crammed in a space not really big enough for it. 😁 Cars are worthless without engines that work. 😋 Youtube seems to have the answers; apparently Subaru recommend lifting the engine up a bit off its mounts, but it's not really necessary with the right tool options.

I'd say they are right, but being too literal, not thinking about it quite enough. Your photo shows two pipes connected to it, as does ETKA: LLLParts Just one of them is short and open-ended.

I think if I read this in the morning I'll probably understand it: https://www.tiepie-automotive.com/en/articles/abs-sensor-hall

Still beyond me.

Beyond me, but looks like they maybe generate a voltage?

Pal just bought a 2001 Impreza, drove it a mile and got a flashing emissions warning light. Snapon scanner said misfires cyls 1 and 3 and running rich. EJ205 engine I think. Coilpacks? plugs? Other? Access looks fun if I am to get at either/both. Do they come out with engine where it is? They must, right?

Again! 😁

Yep

The one I read pertaining to your car (well Superbs of that age in general) was bought from erWin a while back, the one that above screenshot is from was wild on the net somewhere as far as I recall.

See what readings you get on a 'diode' range of the DMM?

No idea! Diagram added to previous post by edit btw.

Wiring diagram does show a + and - next to the sensor connections too, now that I look carefully. You're winning me over. Perhaps there's a diode in there, although it's just shown as a blacked out resistor shape in each. Like this one: Active devices usually show a transistor symbol to indicate such?? Please do a post mortem dissection on one if you do end up replacing one.

Fair enough. 🙂

Hmm, I'm unconvinced. What could possibly be responsible for high-resistance readings - no offence intended - is difficulty in getting meter probes reliably onto sensor pins which might be deeply recessed in housings?

Would need 3 connections for an active sensor of any type, I think?

Engine code would be useful for narrowing down the possibilities. It'll be one of the item 12 selection here, which you will see, are different depending on engine code in the 5th, 'data model' column of the table. View on a computer not a phone to be sure of seeing the full table, view the relevant link in my signature if 'engine code' is a mystery term to you. switch; clutch pedal - Octavia(OCT) [EUROPA 2003 year] (7zap.com)

Repair kits are available cheaply, never tried one though.

🤞

A little silicone grease helps.

I doubt anyone's touched that since build day?

Spark plugs also irrelevant. After checking for mistakes with oil filter: Get the garage to fully warm up the engine, remove the oil pressure switch, fit a pressure gauge there and see what the pressure reads at a steady 2000rpm. Is it a CAXA engine? (code may be found. at start of engine number on V5c document, and on sticker in boot near spare wheel well). If it is, I think minimum pressure at that engine speed needs to be 2 bar. Changing oil type may help, but additives not recommended.

Air filter is irrelevant.