Breezy_Pete

Do you have EPC or other fault lights lit? What fault codes?

I won't be reading any more of your posts. Waste of time. Bye.

The things you mention @nta16 aren't anything to do with the engine ECU, fairly obviously. There is no MAF on a 1.2 HTP engine. No Fabia with its original factory fit radio needs a code entering anywhere after a battery disconnect/reconnect, to the best of my knowledge. Have you actually tried this thing yourself?

A deeper dive into the microswitch in the latch that came off our 175k mile car on Saturday suggests it's an electrical contact failure rather than a mechanical/wear issue with the microswitch mechanicals. Comparison of the 'on' resistance of new and old microswitches (with a cheap multimeter): New - less than 0.2 Ohms Old - around 8 Ohms Teardown revealed a really tiny contact patch between moving and static parts, with a sooty and uneven/worn surface on both sides. Easier to see (with a microscope) than to photograph, but here's a best effort at it. The goldy coloured bar is the moving contact, the round blackened patch visible on the more silvery static contact. So nothing to be gained by cleaning and re-lubing the microswitch/cam externally, in my opinion.

Not me, the OP asked about that in his first post. "Also, what is a healthy number of instant consumption when the engine is at operating temperature and idling? Mine usually displays 0.6 l/h. However, when I switch off the low beam it goes down to 0.5 l/h. When the judder is occurring, the instant idle consumption typically goes from 0.3-0.5 l/h, a more unsteady. " Don't forget to give him your spiel about 'over complicated and intrusive software'; I'm sure that'll be useful. 😁

The hyperlinks on that site don't work (probably because it is pirated info), but the 'next page' and 'previous page' buttons do. You may be able to get where you want to that way. I would pull off the 'cap' (item 7) shown on that page from the handle and try moving the little serrated plastic plug to a looser setting, i.e. further in on the 'ladder' of possible positions. If that doesn't work, try going the other way, if it isn't already at an extreme.

Presumably the car has radio remote central locking? In which case either of the two part numbers 5th and 6th from last in the long list of 'item 1's here should be OK: lock cylinder sets - Fabia(FAB) [EUROPA 2009 year] (7zap.com) View on a computer rather than phone and you should be able to see all the info, including part numbers 3B2837016AB, and 5J2837016. the latter superseded the former so either should fit. A third equivalent part number appears to be 3B2837016Q, probably the predecessor of the -AB part: Front Right Door Lock Škoda 5J2837016 (skoda-parts.com) (look at the boxes to the right of "Skoda part number".

I suspect item 2 here hasn't been refitted to the handle in the correct position. But as the body shop 'broke' it I'd be inclined to take it back there for them to 'unbreak'.

The thread is about an engine judder, and possible fuel consumption issues. I personally prefer to try to remain relevant.

4. Lamps, reflectors and electrical equipment - MOT inspection manual: cars and passenger vehicles - Guidance - GOV.UK (www.gov.uk) 4.5.1. Presence, condition and operation You only need to inspect: front fog lamps fitted to vehicles first used on or after 1 March 2018 the 1 rear fog lamp which must be fitted to the centre or offside of vehicles first used on or after 1 April 1980

That poster's engine ECU does have a permanent supply. 😉

You may not have read the link I posted, or confused me with Nige?

@Jamie1991 grab a helper to make it easy, then try this method: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/495243-quick-and-dirty-parasitic-current-measurement/

Don't be worried, but don't expect it to do much either. Your engine ECU has no permanent power feed; so every time you take the keys out of the ignition it is unpowered just as much as if you disconnected the battery. Have you thought about looking at the misfire info that VCDS may be able to tell you about, as I mentioned upthread?

As with so many other things in car world, engine code should tell you the answer. Go to the link in my signature if you don't know how/where to find this. Scrutinising years 2008-2010 inclusive for Roomster, the only mention of particulate filters in the 'fuel, exhaust, cooling' area of ETKA is for engine codes BMS and BLS, of which the former is a 1.4l engine, the latter a 1.9. e.g. for 2009 fuel, exhaust, cooling Roomster (RO) [EUROPA 2009 year] (7zap.com) I don't see any mentions of any alternative exhausts for BMS engines without particulate filter on the same page either, which seems conclusive. If the car has a BMS engine, it'll have a DPF, if not, it won't.

Unnecessary in the same way that having two lighthouses marking one headland would be.

@Mavver choose the side of the hill that the car will roll down forwards, i.e. the downslope. 🙂

Try cleaning the holder that the battery sits in. I had similar problems recently that turned out to just be a little corrosion at the contact points.

I can only repeat what I said on 18th October "Would need to know the last 8 numbers of the car's VIN to be sure (or you could check if they are in the range 54421760 - 64648255)"

There may be a plastic locking mechanism that stops contacts going inward or outward until it is moved aside. Only accessible with connector unplugged, probably. Sorry, I didn't think of that earlier.

@pixelovski Your engine uses (grey) coolant temperature sensor part number 06A 919 501A, same as all other mk1 Fabias. I would be tempted to just chuck a new one in to see if it changes matters.

Not sure about the NCT, but for MOT I don't believe it's a fail if the windows don't work, just a matter of whether they open it for convenience of reaching in from outside while testing stuff, and then whether it goes back up again or not. Best of luck tomorrow, talking of smoke, any concerns about emissions?

There are a few connectors, but you probably don't need to undo them for a looksee. The effort-saving trick is to pull the rubber boot off the a-pillar with the white plastic frame it fits to. (I've failed to do this in the photo below). You do this by squeezing front and back vertical edges inwards; ideally simultaneously, but if that's not achievable, focus on getting the front (nearest front of car) edge free first, as then the rear (nearest back of car) edge is relatively accessible and easy. If the rubber boot comes away from that frame, be sure to get the frame out before refitting things, as it's much easier to refit boot to frame out of situ, rather than in situ. The frame has four catches, two each side, you can see one on the right side of this photo:

@prt57 I finally got round to sorting this on the Fabia, and this info from you was super-helpful, so thanks again. I initially bought a spare catch from ebay with the idea of researching replacement microswitches with the original catch on the bench, hoping the replacement catch would work at least for a while. I bought a suffix M part which turned out to be a mistake, as that appears to be a pared down version to suit a car without boot light; so no microswitch in the relevant position! Oops... 😆 Then I got to measuring the spot it fits in, and trying to figure out what would go there. Eventually settled on a DJ1G-AG29 which I ordered from Aliexpress. It fits, it appears to work, though I'll give it a few weeks in service before being really confident o fits reliability. It's even marked Cherry, but with slightly different other markings from the one you photographed upthread, and the one I've just found in the original latch, these new ones have A5 31 written on instead of the A4 27 on ours, and 4A 24 on yours. Can't get too excited about trying to work out what these mean, one pair of digits is probably a date-code. I lubed the cam that actuates it with a bit of grease, to help things along. It's really a straightforward repair; hardest part is getting the bloody boot trim panel back on right, that's just horrible with all those trim clips and not really able to see. Don't forget to pass the little fabric loop through the slot either, if you ever use it to pull the tailgate down. Anyhow, I'll 're-microswitch' the now spare original latch (6Y0 827 601H) and make it available to anyone who wants a fixed one, maybe with an exchange price option as I bought a few spare switches with that in mind. Have you kept your old one @prt57? I'd be glad to send you a microswitch FOC if you wanted it.

Check wiring in bellows between a-pillar and door.