Breezy_Pete

Look at the label of the belt on the other side to help (maybe) fill in the missing characters.

I think 036919081D is the correct number to match. Can confirm with reg or VIN.

I think they are open when there's no oil pressure, closing (shorts wire to earth) when pressure is above threshold. What OE number are you matching to?

I think the bigger one is XZN/triple-square/spline, not Torx. Sets aren't expensive and come in handy.

I think there may be a coding process when fitting replacement injectors to this engine. Perhaps the garage did not do this?

According to partslink24, that part number 0BR 525 010M was dropped in march 2019 and replaced by 0CQ 525 010S. Note that all the 0 characters are numeral zero, not letter 'oh'.

I probably should have started with this question, but what problem are you trying to solve?

Have another look in the position shown in that second video I posted. I'm pretty sure that's where the switch is, very adjacent to the engine lifting bracket at gearbox end of engine head. You'll need to remove some air pipework for visibility and access.

This video looks to do a better job of leading you to it. https://youtube.com/shorts/--ANExUFnyI?si=JKUKSNcw8fkeAjDc

Not sure if this helps much, or is even exactly sa.e engine, but if you can work out where it is from this, it looks like a failed pressure switch (green thing with oil leaking out of it).

@joaofpo you may have some wear at the linkage where the actuator rod attaches. I'm investigating the effect of this on our Roomster at present.

Still two options. Do the spark plugs stick out forwards from the engine, or are they vertical down its centreline?

If a non-turbo, is it the 6-valve 60bhp or 12-valve 70bhp variant? Chain timing check on the latter has been described by me many times on here. Not that tricky.

Wildly unlikely to be fuel filter related. Check the chain timing or compression test it.

What makes you suspect the pump/module? It's nearly always a cracked strip fuse, you've come across that, right?

The black/red wire going to each rear lamp cluster is the brake light feed, check for 12V when pedal is pressed. Do check all the bulbs in each cluster in case you changed the wrong ones.

No, I am suggesting that if the high level light is working correctly, the circuit is OK as far as the rear of the car, so localised problems with bulbs or bulb holders of the main brake light bulbs are most probable.

High level and normal brake lights are generally all wired in parallel, so these symptoms suggest that you may not have fitted the correct bulb type (or you changed the wrong bulbs). Correct type per location is often marked on the bulb holder assembly.

Probably an adaptation that can be enabled or disabled via VCDS.

Took a pic just now of the elongation in the hole that the wastegate actuator attaches to on another manifold. A really extreme example I expect. I think the one on the car isn't as bad as this, but it's easy to imagine the electronics/electrics having a hard time trying to position the wastegate accurately with this degree of slop in the system.

Yes, alternator is working as intended.

Someone on here reckoned the Febi pattern parts are OK, should be able to find closer (in UK) than via autodoc.

Yep, part number as in my previous post 036919081D, currently £22.10 + VAT at dealers. 24mm spanner to remove, I seem to remember.

The part number you require depends on when your car was built. There was a change for BTS engines during Model Year 2009 (which a 2008 car may well be). If you supply your reg or VIN, I can look up which suits yours. I suspect it will be 036919081D, but it would be good to be sure.