Breezy_Pete

Check the fuse, especially if the rear wiper doesn't work. It sounds like this thread might be worth looking at. Rear wiper won't stop/intermittent - No screenwash - Skoda Yeti Guides - BRISKODA And this one: Another Rear wiper won't stop thread.... - Skoda Yeti - BRISKODA and this one, all related to the same wiring fault. Anyone got Wiring driagrams for Yeti MK1? - Skoda Yeti - BRISKODA

Maybe ask a trusted local garage to give you a price for removal and refitting, then send it to me in the middle of those operations if it's affordable? You couldn't move the car in between though, which might require an understanding gaarage (or mobile mechanic/auto-electrician?). It's under ten minutes work each way taking things very steadily and carefully, in my experience.

If you have a multimeter you can probably establish the wire's intactness or otherwise by measuring voltage at pin 1 of the alternator loom connector with it unplugged. Ignition would need to be on at the time, and I'd expect to find around 12V or a little less if the wire is OK. Not sure how accessible the connector is on your car/engine though, may not be straightforward to reach. The 4-way connector where the wire changes colour may be a better bet access-wise, but I don't know exactly where that is.

It's probably not much harder than changing an air filter to be honest. Not sure if there's a youtube video showing cluster removal on a mk1 Fabia, have a search. Would it be safe to assume your location is somewhere in the NW of England?

If you can be without the car for a few days, and know how to remove and refit the cluster, you could send it to me. Can post back same day as I receive it. PM me if you want.

Reflow the solder joints of the instrument cluster connectors, that should fix at least the fuel gauge, not sure about the illumination.

Not by any means, but I think I would probably expect it to mention trailer prep, if the car has it. Can't really justify that feeling. I guess you've tried the link in the opening post without success. Try giving a local Skoda dealership a ring, ask for the Parts Department and see if they'll send you a pdf of the full 'car data' from your Reg or VIN. You can get it yourself via erWin Skoda but it'll cost you a few Euros.

Yes, it should be fine. Your mechanic is wise to try to prove the fault is localised to that item. If the car seems to drive the same without cooled EGR, and no fault codes are generated, I would be tempted to leave it that way. But probably not a great idea, as you'll then have an exhaust leak into the engine bay, unless you block off the coolant hose stubs robustly.

What year is your Yeti? Have you tried fuse 6, as suggested by 175GDY a few posts above?

Scroll down to the phone number at the bottom of this page and give him a ring. Home | Coverdale Car Parts

Post a photo of the general area please.

Check/replace fuse 11 anyway. What's the battery voltage before and after starting the engine? Do you see the battery symbol at ignition on?

On later cars it seems to do more than just the mirror. It's an ignition 12V feed to the window regulator module, that may do stuff with the mirrors but may do more. This thread was about an early mk2, but I think it's well worth checking on later mk1 too: Skoda fabia 2008 drivers door wiring loom advice - Skoda Fabia Mk II - BRISKODA

It's really not that hard to get workshop/repair manuals via erWin, but I would've thought someone on here must have done the job on a mk3. Looks to be in an identical position to previous Fabia models, just on the topside of the air ducting between fan and pollen filter. air conditioning - Fabia(FAB) [EUROPA 2016 year] (7zap.com) (item 4 shown vertically above the hole it goes in). Note, LHD version in diagram, mirror everything for RHD. Shift whatever trim you have to to get to the cabin fan, and it should be accessible. Don't forget to check/renew your pollen filter as blockage of this can help the resistor to fail.

Only solution I can think of would be to add sound insulation between you and the control module with the relay inside (BCM at a guess).

Items 11, 9, 12 here I think wishbone; axle guide; wheel bearing housing - Octavia(OCT) [EUROPA 2007 year] (7zap.com) The 2nd part number for the bolt superseded the first one in 2011, no idea why Buy 1K0501387D eccentric bolt Skoda, Volkswagen genuine OEM part (oemwolf.com)

You'd think that the battery management module would smell a rat if the battery voltage increased without any current flowing through the shunt, and reset itself to an estimated SOC based on the off-load terminal voltage, once it stopped rising and settled for an hour or two. If I can think of that control strategy I'd be mighty surprised if the relevant engineers designing the charging system didn't. Bet the car sorts itself out promptly whatever you do. Doubt the OP's car has start/stop though, a shade too early.

Please let us know how you get on.

Expect significant grief getting immobiliser and mileage stuff sorted if you change clusters. The photo I posted was from that PM. He mentioned the same four LEDs around the speedo not working, but not the illumination for the temperature and fuel gauge, so not sure you have identical trouble. Here's another showing his repair of the burnt out track that was under that sticker:

Engine code can be found on a sticker on the cambelt cover usually, and on the build sticker in the boot. CFGB is a 2.0 diesel used in Superbs at the time yours was made, so that's probably it. The wire in question on your car goes to pin 1 of the two way connector that goes into the alternator and is black/blue at that point. It changes into a yellow white wire on pin 2 of a 4-way connector at 'front left side of the engine bay'. That's left as you sit in the car looking forwards so right as you look into the engine bay from in front of the car. From there it goes to both engine ECU pin 70 and pin 32 of a brown 52 way connector at the BCM in the cabin. Look for unpluggedness of the alternator connector to start with, then if that was plugged in OK, trace that wire as best you can to each destination.

More of a red wine man actually. PM me if you're serious, I'll take a paypal 'wine voucher' if you insist, just a bottle mind.

Put a 5 Amp fuse in position 3.

This was the sticker. Of course it would be on the side that requires more disassembly to check out.

Got any pictures of it disassembled? There's a sticker somewhere on the board, and there's a thin track to some LEDs underneath it, that seems to burn out. The new LEDs may be taking more current than the old ones and provoking this failure. I have a PM somewhere from someone on this subject, I'll see if I can dig it out.

Whichever polarity you choose it will work the same.