Breezy_Pete

A pinhole in a hose close to the DPF would be one possibility. I had a coolant leak once that sprayed a tiny jet onto the exhaust manifold of my mk2 Golf. Dense white smoke coming out of the bonnet edges had me reaching for the fire extinguisher before opening the bonnet to see what was going on. Might be that the hose only gets hot enough and soft enough to leak during regens, making it a bit hard to observe at other times. I guess the heater matrix hoses might go near DPF, not sure what else.

Are you losing any coolant?

Happy to supply any info pertaining to the car that I can look up for you, just message me with VIN or reg.

There is CAN comms in all those cars you mention, but the rear wiper isn't connected to the bus. I promise. Not sure why you believe it is. Show me some evidence that it is, if you believe I'm wrong. Happy to show you circuits showing how it isn't, but fairly sure I've done so a few times before now.

Hi Kamil, welcome to Briskoda.

I've yet to see a circuit diagram for a rear wiper system on a Skoda that is CAN controlled. I don't look at very recent models much, maybe there are some.

Measure for the ignition switched feed between the relevant connector pin and local earth pin when ignition is on, no need for any stalk action. You have just proved the intactness of the other two wires between BCM and washer reservoir because they power the washer pump (front wash with polarity one way, rear wash with it the other way). Those same two wires tee off from the BCM to tell the rear wiper to either do the wash/wipe sequence or the intermittent wiping, depending on stalk position. One may be broken between BCM and tailgate, I guess. Measure each relative to the brown earth wire, while someone tries the various stalk positions. If one of them never goes to 12V, it's likely to be broken.

Does the wash function work on front screen?

Genuine or pattern replacement wiper motor? Should be an ignition switched 12V on one of the four connector pins with something like a black/violet wire (from that fuse 26), then a brown earth wire on one of the other pins. Last two wires will go between 0 and 12V depending on stalk command inputs.

Fuse 26, 10 Amp standard blade fuse. Bottom row (of full size fuses) second from right.

Did you check cabin fuse 10, middle row of miniblades, second in from the end? Neither the rear nor the front wiper motor has any connection to the CAN bus.

You probably have the Climatronic system which uses a transistorised controller instead of the resistor pack.

Did you remove it (the idle emulsion tube) to check the jet at the bottom as well as the air jet at the top?

Zooming way in on your photo, I think the idle one is the one with slots that could allow a screwdriver to unscrew and remove it.

Have a good look at the top surface of the carb. The circular brass bits are the top of the emulsion tubes. There should be a tiny air orifice in each. There may be debris blocking the idle one.

It's a LHD/RHD thing, manuals, stickers etc lazily not tailored to the specific market the car was built for.

Well VW group may be, but that's the RRP, so the dealership isn't.

Can you share reg number or VIN so that I can get a build date, please? There are different wiring documents for pre and post-May 2004, and it would be good to know which was more appropriate to be looking at.

No, I think that must be a wiring or connection issue.

Fuse 34, in a car with bulb failure warning, does the front left sidelight (direct) and the rear left one via bulb warning module. Since you were seeing a warning at times when the fuse was intact, I'd suggest investigating the left rear light cluster. Don't be surprised to find moisture shorting connector pins, or evidence that it has been there. The battery light and wipers are controlled by the onboard supply control unit (in front of right knee in RHD cars, above accelerator pedal). If trouble remains once the fuse 34 thing is sorted, maybe try swapping in another of identical part number. For info, the battery light working at all means the blue excitation wire for the alternator is intact. You correctly state that if the load sense wire (the other, non-blue one) is broken on cars with ASR, you tend to get that warning light appear after 10 minutes running.

Just look at the metal inside the fuse to see if it has ruptured. Or try a new fuse.

I don't believe the clutch release bearing turns at all when the clutch pedal is not pressed.

Replied to your message. Appears to have immobiliser only. Less to go wrong. 🙂

There appears to be only one metallic contact in each of those slots, implying that even if fuses were there, they would do nothing. So, either the car has no alarm, or it uses different fuse positions. If you share reg number or VIN I could look up whether it was built without an alarm.

If the autel thing successfully connected to the engine ECU, vcds probably won't do more.