Breezy_Pete

I'll message you to ask for the VIN, so I can look up which version of window motor you have. Mk2 Fabia had 3 different types during its production. If it's the earliest, 6Y1959801 and 6Y1959802, it'll be driver's side module needing repair.

Oil level sensor is generally found on the bottom of the sump, poking up through a hole.

I don't know if it is the correct sensor for that fault code, but this link suggests that suffix CH is equivalent to the -AH. See here https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/05l907807ch-nox-sensor-skoda-54223.html

Pages 12 to 14 look relevant in this SSP. Doesn't cover your exact engine code but I think it's the same family. View document [SSP 616 Audi 1,2l and 1,4l TFSI Series EA211]

I'll message you requesting the VIN, which will allow me to confirm correct current part number. It's possible that the number you've seen is a sub-part of the overall assembly, or simply an error on the label. Check your messages.

Take the throttle body off and see how much oil has accumulated in the manifold under it. Mop out any you find, taking care not to drop anything into the mani. Then, if there was a lot, consider researching the oil separator and PCV system on this engine and ensure all parts of it are in good working order. If you're lucky you might find a Self Study Programme for the engine online.

Same applies for the last fuel gauge diagram in the previous document, except the earth may not come from the cluster directly in that case. Bit mystified here.

I do have some info. Is there a date code on the Fox BCM? There's a different document of info either side of August 2009. First diagram in the August 2009 onward document seems to show two wires from fuel gauge sender going to cluster and nowhere else.

I may have Fox wiring info. I could swap a wiper relay out for you to revive the original.

Coolant leaks without pressurisation don't worry me, they are usually easy to fix.

Thing is, the car is doing this all on its own. The perceived pressure in the expansion tank had been there at least approx 48 hours since the car was last used. I think bypassing (or just substituting) the intercooler should give a definitive answer one way or the other for that as a cause of the pressure.

I believe it is pressure venting. It seems to vary, sometimes when I check there is very little release, but this evening it seemed quite a lot (but not much coolant loss). It is probably 4 weeks since I last checked, so only a very slight problem currently. Thanks for your interest. I guess just disconnecting both hoses from the intercooler and joining them would make an interesting test.

I like that idea, because it might also explain the lasting pressurisation (addition of gases whilst running). I also have a spare intercooler matrix I could try.

Wow, a quick visit to that photo collection says to me that you have done a lot to your engine! My biggest concern at the moment is a very slow coolant loss that seems to be accompanied by pressurisatuon of the cooling system that is present even when stone cold. That suggests a serious problem to me, which may mean that a replacement "younger mileage" engine may be a better plan than lots of work on this one. (Almost 270k km done).

I thought you mind find that. Safer for the brake assist system with it all taped up anyway though. 🙂 There could be a few other reasons for hesitation, but ignition system is a good thing to rule out relatively cheaply.

Yes, stick the wire through the firewall anywhere you like (extending it if necessary), then find the cable it needs to connect to in the engine bay. I think on my Fabia I sent it through behind the glove box, near the ECU, and spliced it into the relevant wire coming out of ECU over there.

Message me with VIN if you'd like me to look up the part number.

Got round to this today, only a couple of months later. 😁 Tried but failed to get a decent photo of the misalignment of the cam locking tool when crank was pushed hard up against crank locking pin. But it was definitely off, no way the screw was going in. My best guess is that it was about a third of the (M6) screw diameter out, in the retarded cam direction as expected. I think that calculates out at about 4.5° which isn't far from what VCDS is saying. Engine was warm, but not at operating temp. So I think Easter weekend will see me attempt the re-alignment of the cam sprocket as mentioned a few posts above, amongst other jobs. Front right corner is making a squelchy noise recently, which I think may be the shock breathing its last few gasps. I have everything needed to swap that whole strut out, on a much lower mileage wheel bearing housing, so I may aim to get that done too.

Possible attempt to lower window when frosted up? That might pull enough current to pop the fuse .

Rigid plastic hoses can't collapse under vacuum when they get old and perished. They just crack and leak at the terminations instead. ☹️

Clean up those areas, cover with plenty of tape and see if it makes any difference to engine running.

Check the connector contacts from the cabin loom and the pins they go onto on the rear light clusters. You're looking for corrosion on one or more pins, most likely the earth which will be a brown wire usually.

Message me with VIN after 5 and I can check.

I think the aftermarket ones will as you say omit the precat, which only really affects emissions during warm-up, so not essential for MOT. Both sensor bosses are present on this one, if you zoom in on the images. Not recommending this particular one, there are several similar I think. eBay UKBM Catalytic Converter Euro 4 Fits VW Polo Seat Ibiza Sko...Catalytic Converter Euro 4This genuine BM Catalysts part is manufactured to OE specifications and is offered with a 5 year warranty (General wear & tear not covered). If your part goes faulty at any pGenuine parts have different numbers for manual versus automatic versions, possibly a slightly different set of bends near gearbox? I can look up the correct genuine PN for your vehicle if you let me know the VIN.

Ignition on, engine stopped. That is all I'm seeing. No reference to coolant temperature. (My) Memory failure.