varaderoguy

Try resetting the MIB system. Press and hold the power button until the system hard resets. Failing that, battery off, leave it 5 mins and reconnect. You should then identify which MIB system you have and firmware update it.

Could be numerous things, but I suspect that the clutch pack is probably worn and it needs new clutches-packs if it is slipping. Make sure that the mineral oil and mechatronic oil has also been changed. I think your gearbox is actually a 7 speed DQ200 gearbox.

The mechanisms can get sticky if not regularly used. It sounds like the recoil mechanism has got stuck, a very light tap with a dead blow hammer to the mechanism might release it. If that works, then a light application of silicon spray onto the mechanism (keep it away from the belt) should keep it free. Failing that, a new mechanism is probably required.

If any car is burning that much oil, it needs attention.

Without sounding flippant, have your RTFM? This information will be in your Skoda handbook. Hint - press the far right hand menu button on the steering wheel and select one of the other selections.

I would definitely start using 97 RON or an octane booster in the fuel to improve the burn cycle and improve performance. My Personal recommendation is to use https://www.hydra-int.com/petrol-power-blast.html (and before this starts a flame war, its only my personal recommendation - I've found that it works for me). That way you can still use standard 95 RON but keep the EGR and Injectors nice and clean.

Yerr - I would probably look at not taking it to a Skoda dealer. If you honestly saw some of the completely underwhelming stuff that Škoda dealers do in terms of maintenance, you would be concerned. Go to a VAG specialist. There's one in Ipswich on the Woodbridge Road called VW Audi Workshop Ltd who would probably give you a far better service (although this is not an endorsement of any one place over another). Spark plugs and coils - a good starting place to check. What do they say about Assumptions? Don't assume that any main dealer has actually done anything that they've said they've done. I'm not saying that Underwoods are rogue, but in these days when dealers are not really interested in maintaining your loyalty or actually doing the servicing they are paid (handsomely to do), it is sometimes better to get a second opinion if your car is misbehaving.

Don't guess on this one. You can get kits to determine if combustion gasses are getting into the coolant. For me; an airlock would be an occasional 'burp' whereas a cylinder head gasket would be a constant series of gasses plus you can smell the combustion gasses in the coolant header tank.

Find a good local VAG specialist in your area. Don't go to a main Skoda Dealer.

Well, first things first - its time to get a scan of the car. I suggest investing in an ODBEleven system and if you can afford it, get the PRO subscription (helps you make coding changes etc). https://obdeleven.com/products That will give you the output from the ECU and different modules which should give you a lead on the issue. EPC - mean Electronic Power Control, i.e. the car is restricting its output for some reason. First things first: Radiators. Can you make sure that your radiator is clean and has good airflow? Wash it the coolant package with a hosepipe (open up bonnet and clean it off as best as possible) Second: Coolant. When was the last time your car had a coolant change? Should really be done every 5 years. Forget the "coolant for life" mantra. Also remove the Silica bag from the header tank and make sure it hasn't split. If it has, then you need a FULL flush (4-6 full flushes) to get rid of the silica as it would have blocked up EVERYTHING including the coolant channels in the engine block. Third: Electronics - make sure one of your coil packs isn't dying. Ideally should be replaced every 100,000miles as a set of 4. Use Bosch or OEM parts here. Using ODBEleven will show you misfire counters. Fourth: Airflow - undo the 8 screws from the air box and make sure that the air filter is nice and clean and hoover out any crud in the airbox. When you were experiencing the issue with the loss of power in France, did you notice the temperature creep above the 90C mark on the dash? Other things to check: oil - make sure to check the oil is at the correct level and hopefully you have a service of the last oil and filter change on the car. Should be running VAG 504/507 spec oil (5W30)

oh FFS. I'm assuming that the Silica bag in the header tank split in that case.... You need to do multiple flushes - typically between 4-6 flushes to get rid of the silica beads which have probably blocked up the heat exchanger in the cabin (low point on the coolant system). Typically, the system needs to be flushed with a high pressure hose or under pressurisation. The coolant then needs to be refilled using G12evo coolant after the final flush and then the car needs to be electronically 'burped' to get rid of all the coolant air pockets.

I suspect its a Euro 5 vehicle. If you are based in the UK, then you should check https://www.gov.uk/check-vehicle-recall to see if the vehicle has a recall against it for the Euro5 fix. IMHO....if I was you, I wouldn't touch the car if it hasn't had the work done.

It can only damage your system if the update files are either corrupted or the updates borks mid-upgrade. In most cases, the system will revert out of the update. I've never heard of any system being physically damaged.

Wow - I can possibly see how that might work - that the screen resolution on the old MIB1 Columbus is the same screen resolution as the MIB2 Amunsden. Could you post a photograph of that and tell us how the button mapping is working out for you.

Have you considered that you've purchased a FEC code from somebody who may have already used the FEC and applied it to their vehicle. There are numerous scams like this and I would never buy anything like this unless I could verify it hasn't been used. You may end up paying twice.

I would suggest that with a P0100 code that you look at the performance of the MAF. The error is stating that the sensor is out of parameter and not giving the correct info. Please replace with genuine VAG product where possible (as there are lots of cheap after market sensors that give garbage information to the Engine)

Nope - that won't work sadly. Sorry.

I'll give you my experience on this: I've found that the saved locations don't necessarily work between map versions. One option is to make a remote backup (if you have the appropriate remote online information package), update the maps, then restore the locations. The only other way is to delete the saved locations, then save them again manually with the new maps.

If you can press hold the menu button on the system and then display the system information, that would be helpful. I would then recommend you speak with @pab567 who is our in-house resident expert in regard to upgrade paths.

Hello there, I'm afraid that the head units are matched with the displays - except for the early MIB2 systems that can be made to work with the F/L MIB2 screens. What you trying to do? Can you show us a picture of your existing system and what you are looking for? Thanks

I think that is still the case, however, it needs to be activated by the Skoda dealer - you have to ask for it specifically.

Two things come to mind: At such high mileage, the inlet manifold might be completely blocked from carbon deposits. The injector port may also be gummed up. Seen this a lot on higher mileage VAG cars. Other thing to check - make sure you have good compression on all cylinders too.Try running several tanks of super unleaded (such as Shell V-Power) to try cleaning EGR/Inlet/Valves.

If you enable up Skoda Surround; audio quality is a lot better on Bolaro, Amunsden (non-Canton) and Columbus (non-Canton).

:-( I did try standard Windows 11 decompression tools, it didn't work for me, but as I am a Linux sysadmin, I went back to Linux to look and see what was wrong with the file. Personally, I think they should be using a SHA1 hash to check the file integrity and publishing the sha1 hash so people can check for themselves.

Hello all, I mailed @MartinB about this issue of corrupt downloads of the latest Columbus 2025/2026 maps (i.e. had he had any joy in using the files from the CDN from Škoda). I tried downloading multiple times, but each time the file showed me as corrupt on both the unzip tools in Linux and also in Windows. No joy. Turns out that those standard unzip tools only looked at the header files and determined that the header information was corrupt and then stopped working. Using my Linux (7z x) 7z decompression tool, I determined that the zip file itself was fine; it was just the header file information was corrupt. I managed to decompress the compressed file and move it onto an SD card and then update the maps as per usual.