varaderoguy

Short answer is no.

It all depends - if you have concentrate, then mix accordingly - if you have ready mixed down to -36C, then just pour in. G13 is now retired to be replaced by G12evo or G12++ (don't ask).

Yerr - but be careful. We've had several members who have had issues with the coolant expansion tank caps 'failing' - and coolant disappearing. Invest in some ready mixed G12evo or G12++. TDI engines do use coolant (I have had many TDI engines [150s and 184s] and they all seem to use coolant around regen time. Weekly checks under the bonnet are a good thing.

Thanks - you have an MIB2 system (Amunsden) - Amundsen MY17 unit 5Q0035874B (with DAB). If we speak very nicely to @pab567 he will hopefully be able to provide the latest firmware for your system (SOP3.x). I think the latest version of firmware is 0363 for that hardware.

Hey Neil, Send us a pix of your Scout. In terms of the MIB system, I think it is worth finding out what version of firmware you have on your system (press [hold] Menu -> Software -> Software Version) and send us the screenshot There are various annoying niggles that can easily be sorted out via a firmware update on your system. Thanks Max

Easy. Press and Hold the Menu button until you get to a hidden screen. Go to Version and Version Information and send us a photo of that screen.

Fan motor agreed it is definitely a warranty item. Filters and consumables not so clear-cut

Yes - all this is good. Looks like that the MK4 Scout's won't be arriving anytime soon in the UK, so it is worth keeping our existing MK3 Scout's going for as long as possible. Good luck to @Nickj633

As you are under the car, make a note of the part numbers for the gearbox bell-housing. If you like the car, then stick with it. Get a quote for the replacement parts or go hunt around a scrap dealer. The other way is this: find a local expect who can do alloy repair (hopefully via Aluminium welding). You would also need to be able to check that the two parts of the bell-house are still good and that the seals between the two parts are still intact. You would also need to get a boroscope if you went down the aluminium repair route and check that any repair is okay inside the gearbox housing.

Yes - that's what is going to happen here utilimately. I'm really keen to do it here at home, but the VRS has lower profile and its not going to be able to drive up the ramps that I have. It all comes down to getting access to a set of ramps. The timing is going to be check next month and I'll get the dealer to do an intermediate oil/filter change whilst its there. I would rather not go down the line of flushing oil as a good number of folk on VW forums state that VAG don't really approve of this kind of thing. I think regular oil/filter changes with decent OEM oil and filter will get the worst of the crud out.

Would urgent suggest getting the car onto a diagnostic CANBUS reader (ODBEleven/VCDS or dealer ODIS) to get some diagnostics. Could be numerous issues. Failures of pumps are recorded....failure of cambelt is not (other than timing issues).

Really??? Good luck on trying to argue that one. A new cabin air pollen filter - part no: 5Q0819653 is not expensive. The genuine part is £17.86 (theskodashop.co.uk) here in the UK (about 20euros) or you can get patented parts for between 6-15 pounds or 8 to 18 euros. I don't really think its worth trying to push that agenda.

Fan motor baring noise. Time to change the blower....however....before you do that - as a check, can you please see what the status is of your cabin air filter. You might have a severe restriction in there. You might need a new filter.

Sorry to resurrect an old thread but here goes. My CUNA engines VRS184 TDI has started producing a LOT of sludge. The car has previously had minimum maintenance (although it was every 18k miles) and known oil type (although it should have been Longlife 3FE 0W30 VW507 oil). I'm now running it on Super Diesel and it has recently had an oil and filter change. After less than 500 miles, the oil is BLACK and looks chunky and smells BAD. I suspect this is the result of the minimum maintenance and that all I am seeing is sludge from the valves and the EGR being processed out of the engine. It's also running lumpy and rich too. Here is a recent scan from ELM scanner from VAGDPF when the car is on idle.Vag_DPF_log.txt

Potentially - the euro-market is different, so as far as I was aware - unless you had a REALLY old MIB unit, all maps were upgradable. My logic is that there is a bug in the firmware which is stopping the units from accepting updated maps.

You need to get the latest firmware from your Skoda dealer. They can either do it, or you can see if there is a new version of firmware available to download at https://updateportal.skoda-auto.com/

Absolutely not.... Well, that's telling....dealers have a habit of skipping doing proper servicing on the DSG and HALDEX systems because that costs money [when selling the car] and eats into their profits. If you think that the DSG and Haldex haven't been done properly, get them done again. The telling point is: if the servicing of the DSG or HALDEX hasn't been done and it isn't in the VW service history, then it hasn't been done.

@guix74 this is going to be something simple. The Columbus updates its maps in a different way to the Amunsden. The error message "cannot find Metadata" says that the you are presenting the .7z file directly to the MIB2 system, instead of the appropriate folders MIB and MIB2 - which should be the root level of the SD Card.

More updates from the car that just keeps on giving! I am now booked into Darkside Developments in early July to have the work to replace the DMF and Clutch sorted. They have quoted me £1400 inc VAT. That is somewhat different to the £2300 from my local dealer. The issue is not getting better by itself; the drive train is definately not happy. The other new and potentially interesting thing is that I think the timing is a little out. My current TDI engine on my Scout is lovely, purry engine, quiet and not at all sounding like a diesel. The TDI184 on the VRS sounds and feels asmatic and it smells as though it is running rich too. The air filter should have been changed recently (I'll double check it) and the oil which has only done <500 miles is super black with dirt. So - I am thinking that the combination of a recent decent service and decent super diesel in the car is getting rid of a LOAD of tutt from the previous owner's [lack of] maintainance regime (it had a full Skoda service history though). Any helpful hints to tell me how I can find out what the timing is doing (I have VCDS).

Okay - this sounds like an electrical gremlin as opposed to a sensor issue. One sensor failure is bad luck, two is unfortunate and three says that the sensor was never at fault! If you are having ALL these gremlins, then I could be looking at the ECU loom or the ECU itself as being the point of intermittent failure. As a lot of the log data is held by the ECU itself, then trying to get diagnostic data out of a failing ECU is going to tricky. Might I suggest you spend some money and find a good locally recommended Auto Electrician. You will be wanting to try and find either a wiring / loom break or a failing connector which is heavily corroded. As for the MK4's - they have issues all of their own. These are mostly software related issues as opposed to the physical build quality of the car, so not really connected.

Yerr - the OP has a 2015 Scout with a DQ250 4 wheel drive variant gearbox. They all do that; from cold even my DQ381 does that. Its to make overcome the issue with a cold engine and cold gearbox oil - could make the car stall, so second gear tends to be held up to 2500 rpm. Even going from 1st into 2nd on a manual gearbox, the oil is cold and the gearbox is a bit bulky, so none of this is a problem. Normal operation.

I think you must have been unlucky to get an Amunsden MIB1 system in 2015, but apprechiate that the factory must have still been installing those units around that time. There are plenty of threads on how to upgrade your MIB1 to an MIB2 system (you can go for buttons or soft-button versions). You will need to get an MIB2 unit with SmartLink. As for Android Auto - its going to around for a while. I would ideally go for a unit that has either a SOP3.x or SOP4.x firmware version. 750 Euros is reasonable money - as long as the new system definately has CP removed and has been configured for your car, then you are all good to go. P.S. Don't forget to enable Skoda Surround when you get the new unit - makes the audio experience much nicer.

The Octavia's can fit a full sized 17" tyre in the boot. Recommend you get this and a spare tyre tool kit insert. Skinny 50mph emergency tyres coat about 200ukp. A full sized 17" plus tools is about the same money.

Remember folks - please tag @pab567 in your post who will hopefully be able to respond.

Lets break this work down for you a little. Tow bars and towing causes additional stress and strains on the car. Firstly, for any job like this, get the Skoda Dealer to break down the work into its constituent parts. The car will need the "electrical preparation" kit and the "tow bar" kit. The electrical kit is not a drop-in. You have to take apart most of the internals of the car to get feeds for all the electrical feeds and add in additional connections into the internal fusebox plus programming the car up to accept the electrical connections and to tell it has a tow bar. The TDI150's I think have a requirement for additional cooling (I think they get the cooling equipment from the 184's), so that maybe a radiator (possibly gearbox radiators too for DSG) and cooling fans, so that sounds about right. I would also budget for getting a Skoda reversing camera installed too (300 odd pounds), because it will make towing so much easier. Of course, you can take the car and get a tow-bar installed cheaply - it just depends on what you are expecting. Without the additional cooling, you will stress the engine. You maybe left with a car that is not supported and will cost a shed load to fix (overheating). Please also note there are weight limits for towing - as your Scout is a 2015 model (MY16??), this was the last year for a manual gearbox - the manual gearboxes are good, but need fettling occassionally to keep them good. I am very particular with cars, so I would also get the gearbox oil changed prior to towing.