varaderoguy

Sounds like the alarm is not happy, but suspect it maybe something as simple as the windows need resetting. Press and hold down the window button (for 10 secs) until you hear a faint click. Then press and hold up (for 10 secs) until the windows fully close (and you again hear a faint click). This is the windows recalibrating themselves. Failing that, blow out dust built up in the ultrasonic sensors above your head (tiny plastic grill near the curtosy lights). Failing that, a scan from ODBEleven or VCDS and post it on here.

Okay - folks - I'll raise this point again. PLEASE PLEASE do not buy non-genuine VCDS because the software is a) Old as heck and won't support cars any newer than 2015, b) you are potentially supporting crime and c) you could risk damaging your car due to the hacking of that old version of the VCDS. I apprechiate that VCDS is not a cheap system - but it isn't expensive either. Folk on this forum are passionate about cars and I know that we all tend to grind our collective teeth when folk present with a non-genuine VCDS install and ask us to fix stuff for them. You are not going to get a good response. Alternatives to consider: ODBEleven (PRO) will allow you to do the same changes but from the comfort of your smartphone (and is almost quite okay these days). Carista ODB2 is also worth considering (although I haven't used it). Both are cheaper alternatives.

That's Dark Side talk that is....what with their overly stretched MQB platform and all the consule buttons in the wrong place.

Can you check your steering ball joints for us pls? Could be play or broken rubbers in the ball joint itself. Did you check the strut tops because the spring will often break towards the top and destroy the strut tops in the process (never seen it on a MK3, but the MK2's we've owned all broke their springs in this place). Have you also identified which side that noise is coming from? Finally, can you recall some rough ground you went over and the car started making this noise? It might also be worth getting your car 4 wheel aligned and tell the technicians to check for any steering component damage.

Welcome Dave to the forum. There are many lurkers and shady characters here on the Forum....just your average set of car-nutts (with too many loose spanners and tools) - myself included! Hope you enjoy your Freedom membership and that you enjoy using your VCDS. Make sure you register on the forum, so you might be able to help any future Skoda/VW owners with scanning that needs to be done. Best Wishes

Unless the keyfob has died electrically (did it get wet??), the electronics should be bullet-proof. Make sure the CR2025 battery is new and that the contacts on the battery terminals are tight and not loose (because that would make the keyfob stop working). Also make sure that there is no corrosion on the +ve or -ve terminals and if there is, wipe it or scrub it off before putting in a new battery.

It just take considerably longer to get up to temperature if you leave the car to idle. I timed it once - typical Scottish Day - 10C - took 30 mins for the car to get up to temperature on idle.

I think it is worth bring in @langers2kat this point has he has scans of numerous cars to yours and maybe able to assist with coding.

The scan and information provided by VCDS and by ODIS (the dealers tool) - gives exactly the same information. The only thing that ODIS does is to suggest fixes (because we canny have engineers/technicians thinking for themselves :-) ). ODIS standards for Online Diagnostic Informaton System. My Skoda dealer loves me because I provide them a scan of my car(s) prior to them going to the dealership so they know what they are walking into.

I would say that your local Skoda dealer is taking the Pi**. Firstly, I have have a set of sparkplug for the TSI engines - that only cost me 50UKP (about 60euros), so I'm not entirely sure how that equates to 177.52 euros. Pollen Filter is NOT 71.90 euros - its more like 20euros (as it takes me 2 minutes to change a pollen filter and I'm not a training VAG engineer, although I'm coming to the conclusion that I know more than some technicians these days). WHT000729A Hex Socket Bolt Screw Self Locking M8x20 - some hex screws. WHT001386 is a turbo charger inlet seal WHT003247 is a intercooler turbo seal 04E145853 is a retainer clip This all sounds like an oil leak from a turbo, but I'm scratching my head on why you are paying for the work on the turbo (unless you car is out of warranty). To compare prices, try heading down to your local VW dealer and ask to see the master technician and see what they quote to do the work.....your car after all is just a VW Golf in different clothing! :-)

From my perspective (and I own 2 x TDI184 cars - a Scout and a VRS) - I turn on the engines and wait about 60 seconds prior to departing. That lets the oil get to all the places it needs. I have 300 yards of short backroad and then I am onto fast 60mph road. Its important that I let the engine oil get warm before I get to the main road. Even when I am accelrating away, I do try to make sure that I do not progress too quickly up to speed until the engine is warm. The golden rule is that until your car reaches 90C (by the coolant temperature), you should avoid reving the car past 3000rpm. However, you will also find that the car has limitations on performance (to protect itself) until the engine oil gets warm enough (things like limiting the use of the turbo-actuator to engage the turbo) until the car is warm.

If you google "Skoda erwin" - you can log into the VW portal, pay 7 euros for an hour, type in your VIN and get your exact spec of your car.

Sorry to hear your issues: A couple of things: 1) When was the last time the Fuel Filter was cleaned or changed? This should be a good first check. 2) Fuel pumps do fail, but it is rare. 3) If your DPF is blocked and the regen process doesn't work, can you tell us what kind of journeys you do? You could try and get a forced regen process to be activated at the local dealer and take the car on a long/fast journey. The Diesels do need a long fast journeys to allow the DPF's to work properly. Can you get a local VCDS person to scan your car and get the codes for us and post them here on the forum pls? Thanks Max

Car is going in tomorrow to be fettled by WES. An Intermediate oil and filter change to be done. Clutch actuator is iffy I've asked WES to apply the latest firmware but have been told that isn't possible as it is running the latest firmware that is recommended. Sigh.... My view is that if the actuator is not playing nicely, it will be a new mechatronics unit. Failing that, it's bespoke DSG firmware from the likes of APR.

Wheel alignment is going to be the issue. IMHO, the Octavia's do have a habit of getting their wheel alignment out quite easily, so go and find somebody with a Hunter 4x4 wheel alignment system (maybe your Skoda dealer??) and get it checked (checking is free - alignment costs money).

I would recommend doing this WITH a battery charger otherwise the process will fail due to low battery voltage and could brick your MIB unit.

Don't forget that you also need to tell the car that it tyre sizes have changed from 19" to 18" - https://www.vwvortex.com/threads/vcds-coding-for-alltrack-wheel-sizes.9082490/

Your car is cold. I bet you if you get the car warm up to temperture that whistle would disappear. Its not recommend to take the car above 3000rpm until the temperature is at 90C. I suspect as you have a TSI Engine that it could be a blow-off valve. Page 37 of the manual states: Cold area [for temperature of the car], The engine has not yet reached its operating temperature. Avoid high speeds and high engine loads. If the oil temperature of the oil is not warm, there are bypass functions to stop the car fully boosting up the turbo until the engine and the rest of the car is warm.

@Geordieskoda Hello there. What's the issue with your 7 Speed DSG gearbox? It will be a DQ200 Dry-Clutch gearbox.

Hello there. Welcome to the forum. You will have hopefully picked up a lot of info from this forum. Please tell us more about the car. The key things for me are servicing. It should be serviced (full VW/Skoda service), clean (no kerbing of wheels) and have as many options as you afford. Is it a petrol (VRS TSI 230/245) or diesel car (VRS TDI 184)? The gearboxes are fairly bullet proof. You will have a DQ381 gearbox 7 speed. I am OCD on maintenance, so would recommend an oil/filter change to be done on the car (with proper Lifeline III VW507 oil) to give you a good start with the car. I would also recommend a DSG oil change if you want to keep the gearbox in good working order (300 odd pounds) although this is entirely optional until you get to 80k miles (I do mine at 40k miles though). Check the coolant levels and brake fluid levels. Mechanically they are identical to a Mark 7.5 Golf GTD/GTI. Is Price a factor for you? Depending on how you want to haggle, it could be quite difficult at the moment. MK3 Octavia's are commanding very high prices due to poor availability of MK4's and their various niggles. You can also find the spec of the car online by Googling "Skoda erWin". Register, pay your 7 euros and type in your VIN number. This will give you all the options your car was built with (car dealers almost NEVER do this). Happy for you to PM me and we can help you find your perfect Octy.

Post a video of your rattle and we will try and help.

The only other option is that if you put on a new module; the ECU might not know anything about it. That would also cause that error. Some time on ODIS maybe required.

The answer is in the message: Watchdog/safety µC failure The module is knackered.

A VRS245 not exciting - I suppose it depends on your driving style. In my old 230, that was VERY exciting with lots of wheelspin in the wet!

Hellphase on VRS - using the coding above from @langers2k hellphase-on-vrs.mov