varaderoguy

Hopefully you have my answer on that one. Typically the smallest amp fuse for cars is 3A (to allow for start-up surge currents).

Okay - High Beam can be improved by Phillip 120% - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Philips-12972XV-S2-X-tremeVision-Headlight/dp/B00NMEEV9W The MIB/Stereo system - before you junk it, try enabling up Skoda Surround and Virtual Base first - there are other thread on how to do this. You might be surprised that you can do this on the Bolaro, Amunsden and Columbus systems.

Great car - I think it is basically a SE - with an Amunsden system (and therefore GPS). However, very configurable and a nice option for a car.

@Westyvrs1 - if you go and have a look in the VCDS section - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/23-diagnostics-amp-vcds/ you will hopefully find somebody close to you. If your VRS has DCC (Dynamic Chassis Control), then you have the ability to turn it down from the MIB system.

I have seen version numbers for 0490, but this is SOP1.x hardware or MIB hardware. The version number doesn't always follow.

Yes - I would recommend that everyone enables Skoda Surround on their MIB system (enable Virtual Base and Skoda Surround). It can be enabled for Bolaro, Amunsden and Columbus systems. Offically supported on SOP3.x (0363 recommended) and SOP 4.x (0478 recommended). Go and find somebody who had VCDS locally to you or get ODBEleven Pro and get them to enable the following: Skoda Surround settings are: Module 5F, Byte 11 and change to Hex 04 Once enabled, go to Sound (via either Radio or Media), Settings and enable Virtual Base and Skoda Surround - and then stand-back and wonder why Skoda didn't enable it from the off!

Yerr - officially the mudflaps don't fit the VRS - but they do - cos I've fitted numerous sets to my previous VRS's! Might scrap over the speed bumps thoug

Arh - WHICH West End Skoda are we talking about here? Sighthill (Edinburgh), Dunfirmline or Stirling? I had to do a lot of 'training' with them and almost showing them what needed to be done, but they only started doing the oil service and filter gauze change from last year after I nagged the F*** out of them to do it. I know that both Edinburgh and Dunfirmline do this - couldn't comment about Stirling. Euan (chief tech) is the guy to speak to there at Edinburgh and he will set you straight. I'm not sure the others know how to do this, but speak with Euan and he'll make sure the work is properly done. Speak with Kewin or Claire at WES Edinburgh to get the car booked in and that you definately want the gauze filter changed (this must be noted) at the same time as the oil is changed.

The tyre does smell very rubbery as they are very new tyres and I had considered a wheel alignment problem. Good news is that I am visiting West End Skoda on Tuesday next week so we'll see what happens.

No error codes as far as I am aware but I'll check tomorrow and report back.

Err okay. That's different. What's the make and model?

That sucks even more Kenny. Looks like West End Skoda messed up somewhere (and it sounds like the pump suffered from oil starvation) - but the good news - it will be repaired under warranty. I wonder whether WES technicians primed the Haldex pump after they changed out the Haldex oil?

When you loose multiple functions, this is going to be a central electrical fault. I was trying to quickly go through the owners manual (https://ws.skoda-auto.com/OwnersManualService/Data/en/Superb_3T/11-2014/Manual/Superb/B6_Superb_OwnersManual.pdf) and see if there is anything (on Page 221) - for the Fuses that might have blown. Have a look at fuse 5 and 19 - see if they are still viable. I don't believe that a failed steering wheel control and loss of cruise control aren't connected.

They used to for the VRS's (up to 2018/2019), but they are now as rare as hens teeth. I know that on the Scout 184's, the last manual version of those cars was in 2016/17 (MY17)

@Tazdaz The waterpump does still leak - just not as much or as problematically. Sorry you've hit this when just out of warranty. Bad luck.

Today is another day - and I've increased the pressure up to 38psi on all tyres on the VRS. This has definately made an improvement. The understeer has now almost all disappeared, although you can still feel the flexing of the tyre, its not dangerous any longer. I am going to let the tyres and the car cool down, later on today - I'll take the pressures up to 40psi and see how we get on with things. However, the MPG still sucks at 38psi - I cannot (even with gentle driving) get the car above 35mpg.

oh - that sucks. That sounds like a failure of the pump components. How did that one flag itself up?

First job I would do with a HALDEX system - and that is get the pump gause filter and oil replaced. So - this is one of the dumb things with VW servicing schedules: For the HALDEX 4 or 5 system, they recommend oil ONLY replacement at 40000 miles (60000 kms). Its a pointless service, because VW believe that the filter should only be replaced when pump fails! I kid you not. For reference, I have two 4x4 HALDEX5 Octavia's (a VRS and a Scout). At 23,000 miles, I asked the dealer to change the oil and filter on my Scout - both were black as black and the filter was already covered in dirt and crud. The same thing was done on the VRS - which was black and horrible at 60k miles (but I think I've got lucky and the pump seems to be okay). By only changing the oil, you will cause premature pump failure (by which point, Skoda/VW hope you are out of warranty).

Opps - you call me out @KenONeill - I did mean Slave Clutch Cylinder. Applogies - original to be edited.

EXACTLY the same thing happened at exactly the same mileage on my previous TSI VRS230. Its a known issue - the clutches wear out easily (and to confirm that, I suggest you look at Golf GTI of the same power/era). I also know the exact cost: £950 from your local Skoda dealer - also includes a new Master Slave clutch cylinder.

Yes, but unlikely. I'll be trying higher pressures today and see how we get on. I'll let you know when I visit ATS Euromaster and get feedback from them.

Yes...lower mileage I would go Petrol.

Okay....I think you have a good point. I will try the tyres at 38psi and even at 40psi to get try to get them to perform normally and when it get colder, they need to operate on a lower psi.

So - I have a separate digital tyre pressure meter for our tyres. Those tyres are being shown at 36psi/2.5bar. I was thinking of taking the tyres up to 38psi/2.6bar for comparison. The driving experience is like driving on marbles and the tyres are going around a corner, not gripping and then gripping. That's what I mean when I say it's alarming (in terms of the handling).

In all fairness, about the same. I would have been able to go through those corners without issue on the old tyres.