varaderoguy

@langers2k - as always - you are a genius!!!! I finally applied the correct coding to the person's car - and it all come good!

Please also check the Cabin Air Filter is not blocked (these really need replacing very 20k miles)

In all fairness, this is not just a Skoda thing. A friend of mine had a brand-new Passat (at the time, also on a 19 plate) with EXACTLY the same issue.

No - it isn't - and I bet you'll now get down on your hands/knees and check it has been done properly. Even if the undertray is broken, replacement parts are not expensive. It is lazyness.

I've trained up my Skoda Dealer - basically, I save myself £90 and provide them the diagnostic scan from my VCDS which is free for me and it gives them all of the info they need! Had a couple of warranty claims where it came in super-useful. I would suggest getting a ODBEleven (for scanning the car) and make sure you do a full scan and send it onto your dealer so they know what they are coming into.

Sounds like a faulty solanoid for the lock mechanism, I would spend some time with some lithium spray grease and lubricate the locks, the door hingles and sliders to keep everything happy.

Easy fix. The switches are known failure points. One of two things: a) The auto-up and auto-down have failed and you only have intermiate opening and closing on the buttons. This can be fixed by a full press DOWN and HOLD THE SWITCH IN THE DOWN POSITION FOR 10-15 secs. Go all the way up to the top and PRESS/HOLD for further 10-15 secs. This will recalibrate the switches (needed when a car battery has been replaced!)! :-) The second is a genuine failure of the switch - firstly make sure that the window lock button hasn't been pressed (because that can mess up window operation). You could also have some joy with some contact cleaner (switch off car first and let the cleaner work its magic (wait for 5 mins for evaporation to occur, then switch on ignition and try again). I would then go through and find the appropriate part numbers for new switches for your car - they aren't expensive!

Car is now booked in for an intermediate oil change next week. We've started running our cars on Hydra International Fuel Adatives which seems to have made a MASSIVE difference. There are two reasons: Fuel Prices have shot up recently and that Super Diesel is REALLY expensive - where as adding in your own Fuel Adatives is considerably cheaper. Other brands are available. All our cars initially run really roughly - then clear themselves and we are now getting average 55-60mpg on long runs for the Diesels. Some odd-stuff happening here with the DQ250 box. Its getting better - unexplained, but the lurching clutch issue is getting less severe. I suspect this is down to the Mechatronics clutch actuator. I've ask our Skoda dealer to apply a firmware update to the mechatronics.

Yes, the person who last worked on your car didn't do a good job of putting back the under-sump protection tray. If I remember correctly (when I last did an oil change on my husband's SE), it is three screws down the each side, two large at the back and three at the front. Would suggest getting the car onto a ramp (you can buy ramps from your favourite stuff seller) and find out which bolt or screw is missing.

So - you need to take OFF the logos from the NAV SD Card - and put them onto a new SD Card - and use SD card slot 2. Put your logos into a folder called "RadioLogos" on the new SD card. Then you know how to get at them.

Try this one for starters:

Oohh....touche. The Scottish Borders is just fine although the roads are terrible in this part of the world. Your local VAG specialist can help you @KyleHa Make you find one that knows about how to properly service the front diff.

@e-Roottoot i know that VAG never said 20k for HALDEX, but if you want your four wheel drive system to operate correctly, then it has to be done at this mileage. I have two HALDEX5 cars. Both needed their HALDEX oil and filters cleaning at 20k as they were super-dirty. Leaving it any longer leads to premature pump failure....but we are going off post as the OP said front diff, not rear diff or rear HALDEX.

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All that info is in Erwin. Look at the fault finding or maintenance section for this kind of detail for your car.

Agreed. Yes, you can drive it as a manual, but it feel counter-intiative. In D/S mode, move the gear handle to the left. You can then press UP for going up a gear or DOWN for going down a gear which feels odd when you have driven a manual car. Car will still step down gears, so it doesn't stall, but not go up gears by itself in manual.

Yes - battery failing will cause all kinds of odd problems. Basically if your battery gets below 50% capacity / SOC, it need either charging or replacing. I recommend that if you are not using the car often, please invest in a a ODBC battery charger - something like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/233409015194

Bug on firmware. Make sure you are running 0478 on your Bolero or Amunsden system.

Take to the dealer immediately - that does not sound good. However, I would ask you to check the air intake at the top of the engine to make sure that hasn't come loose.

What is your performance like at the moment? That sounds like the beginning of turbo bearing failing (the squeak sounds like the opening of the blow-off valve). When did you last have an oil change and filter and what oil are you using? As Pagan has suggested, it is also a good time to check for air leaks. A failure of the seal around the airbox will also make the noise (although it would be more of a woosh noise). Check to see if your air filter is also blocked.

So - a thought. Would you like a video on how to do it (cos the videos I've seen on YouTube don't show the correct way of doing it).

The 'connector' or soft-opener is easy as long as you extend the arm to its furthest extent. Clipping it into place it a matter of some patience, thin fingers or a plastic removal tool to clip it back into place.

Arh....stop your complaining 🤭. It's easy,you just need practice. The key way to make it easier is thin fingers and extending the soft opening mechanism to its maximum length. Clip - click, left push, right push...all done!

No...VW stopped giving updates for Amundsen and Columbus MIB1 systems last year.