WaveyDavey

Cheers for that. I'd seen that or something similar before but had another quick scan through but looks like I can only see mention of the digital dashboard where when looking at the Sportline section of that it says it comes with a 10.25" instrument cluster so would that be the better version with more viewing options available?

Hi all, First time visiting the Karoq section but long, long, long time member of 19 years having had two mk1 Fabia vRSs and currently a Superb II Elegance and a Fabia III Colour Edition. I'm thinking of replacing my Superb this year and the Karoq Sportline is one of my favoured options (and also one that SWMBO really likes too). I prefer the looks of the facelift model over the original Sportline but just wondered if i could get some answers to some questions about the facelift version? 1. Is there anything on the facelift Sportline that became standard that the original pre-facelift Sportline doesn't have or only had as an option? (Is it just things like the remote foot operated boot and interior coloured door lighting etc...) 2. Are there any issues with the panoramic sunroof on these? Are they prone to any issues etc.... (It'll be the first time having a panoramic sunroof rather than just an old school small sunroof previously on a couple of cars). 3. I'm initially thinking of going for the 2WD 1.5TSi 150PS engine. How does it perform with this size car? Is the DSG better suited or is the manual fine? (My current Superb is a CR140 DSG so thinking they will be possibly feel similar performance wise?) 4. Any known issues with the HU and Virtual Cockpit to know about? Does the facelift Sportline come with the better virtual dashboard or is that only an option? 5. Are there any indicator adaptations possible like there are on various Seat, VW, Audi models whereby you can change how the indicators flash or scroll etc.....? And if so are these done in the car or are they done via OBDEleven etc....? 6. Finally any other general things to look out for with the facelift Sportline? Thanks again for any input/info you guys can provide.

I've been busy with other things through December and only used the car a few times but it had gotten worse to the point where i had a 1 hour drive with the HU stuck in boot loop and then two 30 minute drives without it booting up either so had got to the point where it just didn't boot. After speaking to another member they sent me an image for the firmware disc without it affecting the maps/media partitions so i burnt and installed it on Sunday and now have a working HU again.

I re-installed the firmware using the image created by @pab567 over the weekend and the HU is now back to behaving normally again.

Yep looking southbound towards jcn34 taken from Jumble Lane overbridge.

Thanks for taking the time to respond. That's a shame. I've managed to find another UK seller with good feedback so if i can't locate a copy of the firmware to burn myself, (I have one more option to try for a repository of the FW files) then i will go for the UK seller i've found. The HU had a good day on Saturday booting up within a couple of minutes max the two times i used the car...... Then yesterday morning it was back to taking around 10 minutes to boot up but then last night and this morning it didn't manage to boot up at all and just kept boot looping for the full 30 minute drives. 😒

I’d totally forgotten about this thread and haven’t posted in it for a good few years so thought I’d start going through my Flickr and post up various things I’ve captured over those years one or two images at a time if that’s ok. I’ll start off with these two I captured last December.

Sorry to ask but do you have the details of the seller as the link is no longer valid.... I've found a few but wanted to ideally go with one I know has been used OK by someone else.

That would be very much appreciated. The unit itself is one of Rustynuts' units I bought from him a few years ago. (Hence it being a late unit in a 2011 spec car) I'm assuming it's a standard version of firmware on it but I'm not sure if Rustynuts installed anything modified firmware though? (Can you tell if it's standard or a modded firmware?) I'm planning on replacing the car next year so not having to try and source a map disc would be perfect.

Thanks for the reply. Is there any way around this at all as I don’t have a map disc and was hoping a reinstall of the firmware wouldn’t result in losing the maps.

My Columbus has just started having issues booting up when first starting the car. It's random and can take anywhere between 2 and 10 reboots/loops before it finally starts up so I'm thinking that there has been some corruption of the firmware on the SSD? As per the images below my HU is running firmware version 6276. @varooom @pab567 Do either of you guys have this firmware available for me to burn to disc at my end? Also are there instructions when just replacing the existing firmware with the same version rather than updating it to a newer version? I'm also assuming re-installation of this firmware won't result in the loss of my maps?

If you reinstall the firmware from a disc do you lose your satnav map in the process? Or is all the map info retained? (I don’t have music held on the SSD as I use an SD card instead so only the maps I’m interested in).

What diodes are required for these? What would i need to be searching for on ebay/amazon etc.....

This post has maybe given me a little hope...... My Columbus has just started over the last 2 or 3 weeks having issues booting up. I get the loading screen but it can then take anything from one or two boot cycles to five or six cycles before it springs into life. I was thinking there was a component issue/start of a failure or some software corruption. I did notice that if i just stopped the car to nip in a shop it would then work fine. I'm looking at replacing the car next year so wasn't looking forward to having to replace the HU at this stage. Seeing the above about it being a low voltage issue makes me wonder if maybe the battery is starting to show signs of going as the issue does tie in with when we got the start of the lower temperatures a few weeks ago and like i mention only happens when the car has been stood for a few hours/days..

Just noticed our 2019 Colour Edition has this same issue on the drivers door rubber. Is this something that is simple to do yourself or is it a job for the dealers? (Both our cars normally go to a VAG specialist for servicing rather than the Skoda dealers but thinking this probably wouldn’t be something for them as it’s not a mechanical thing). If it’s a dealers job how much have people been paying to get it done?

So sorry to dig up such an old thread but I'm wanting to confirm which is the correct part number for the UK and RHD cars....... The original post gives two versions one starting 5E1 and the other starting 5E2 and says how the throttle pedals are different. From what i can tell one part number is for LHD cars and the other for RHD cars but I'm not 100% sure which is which as from looking online it would suggest that the 5E2 version is the RHD version but this thread seems to say the 5E1 version is the RHD version? So which do I need for a RHD car? 5E1 064 200 or 5E2 064 200???? (Note it's for our Fabia Colour Edition rather than my older Superb but it's still the same pedals as they fit them as standard in the MC spec car)

Yep I realised after I posted that the MC had the Octy vRS pedals fitted as standard.

Cheers. Just found these myself. So it looks to be the same as my Superb in that Octy vRS pedals fit all cars. 😁

I think it's one of those damned if you do damned if you don't scenarios........ Heavy use can wear them out quicker but very little use can cause dust and crud to build up and cause failure too.

Are there any official Skoda pedal covers that can be fitted instead of the standard black rubber covers on a 2019 manual? I'm thinking in a similar way to how I fitted Octy vRS pedals in my Superb.

When i bought my Superb at three years old one of the rollers on my wheel failed after a couple of months but it was covered under approved used warranty. I remember at the time though talking to the service guy about it and he said it wasn't an unusual job for them and i seem to remember it would have cost around £200-250 if i'd had to pay for it.

Sorry for the late reply.... Been on nights. So yeah a PCP is kind of like the hire purchase of old. The difference is that you have three options at the end of the deal, Keep it, trade it for another or give it back and walk away. At the start when setting it all up all financial stuff is set out and you pay a deposit then however many years of monthly with a pre-agreed final balloon payment if you want to keep the car. Mileage is also agreed and can be tweaked as required (Ours by default was 24,000 miles total but we changed it to 32,000 miles). Vehicle condition & mileage is taken into account but only if you are giving it back and walking away or trading it and starting a new deal. Our Colour Edition was something like £16,000 new, There was £3,000 deposit paid between us and VWFS (We paid £1,000 and VWFS paid £2,000) then what's remaining is paid at an agreed amount per month plus a final larger balloon payment if you want to keep the car. The monthly & final payment can be tweaked slightly as if you were definitely going to keep it you could pay a little more per month and have a smaller final payment or if you intended to give it back you could tweak it slightly to make your monthly payments slightly smaller leaving a larger final payment etc.... So in our case ours was £3,000 deposit, £198 per month for 47 months, and a final payment of £5300 for the 48th payment. The problem pre-COVOD was that the car usually reached the point of neutral equity at around the 3 year mark so pretty much everyone except those who were planning on giving it back and walking away at the end tended to end up finishing the deal up to a year early and switching to a new vehicle or they would end up paying a final payment that was more than the market value of the car. For example with the Citigo that this Fabia replaced in 2019 it was approaching the point of negative equity at a month short of 3 years even though it was either a three and a half year or four year deal and hence the wife traded it in for the Fabia. Post COVOD though with used car prices being a lot higher it means the car has depreciated a lot less and so the final payment is actually a lot less than the market value. This is great if you intended to walk away as you could pay the final payment then just put the car straight on the market and maybe double the money you just paid as the final payment. In our case we will have paid around £15,600 over the last four years (£15,600 rather than the new price of £16,000 as VWFS paid £2,000 of the deposit but there has been around £1,600 paid in interest over the four years) and we have a car that is currently selling for around £11,000-£12,000 on a forecourt looking at others available that are 19 plates with the same spec and mileage. From what myself and friends have found the differences between PCP and leasing are the final options where PCP gives the added benefit of the option of keeping the vehicle and the lease deal sometimes getting the benefit of things like running costs like tyres and servicing included in the deal. Also PCP is usually also now available as an option for used cars at dealers rather than just on new cars as it used to be so the same process can be used when buying an approved used car as well.

No it's to do with the fact she's a petrol head and previously had a Type-R and a vRS so just wants a bit more oomph from this one after having it since new..... Kinda like having a new car but without actually having a new car kinda thing.

These are my top 3 and are all on Three around the North Sheffield area.

Cheers for that but my question was more what are the limits of the standard turbo and clutch so as to know if there are any remaps out there that aren't going to cause issues with them etc...... Apologies if I worded it wrongly but i posted during my break during my fourth of five 12 hour night shifts so the old brain wasn't working too well. The only thing i can see in the things you posted is one of the topics mentions that the APR remap is more than likely too much for the MQ200 gearbox/clutch fitted to the colour edition. And looking at what you have put for Celtic Tuning that's way over what the MQ200 is rated for too so i guess that rules a remap out when keeping everything else standard.