Glad its all sorted now.Looking good in your other thread.

Have you gone back to a DMF now? or kept the SMF in?

After removing the EGR the only way to turn the engine light off is to remap the car with a custom map that maps out the EGR, VCDS / VAG-COM cannot do this.

Glad its all sorted now.Looking good in your other thread.

Have you gone back to a DMF now? or kept the SMF in?

ive gone back to DMF, but im keeping the SMF as a spare. ill put it back on when this DMF dies.

The problem with an EGR delete whene the Engine management triggers the EGR solenoid it checks it is working by expecting an airflow reduction at the MAF sensor now the engine is supposed to have an additional exhast "air" intake

I've not needed/tried it yet on mine (now 127k) but I've been told with VCDS you can change EGR values so that the valve in reality is never called on.

semi update:

ive not had time to strip the block fully, but what ive done so far is removed the pistons/conrods..

now from "looking at the rods they seem straight and the pistons are ok too! i was expecting to find something here but no!

the only thing left to remove is the crankshaft, i can only think it may have spun a bearing! i assume a bearing letting go will make the engine knock.?

You should have started from the bottom end mate with the symptoms described. Let us know how you get on!

did you check the clutch assembly could have been as simple as a warped pressure plate

I have only just found this but what you describe sounds like th egr valve has a split in the diaphram (top hat shaped bit) diaphrams when they split make knocking noises.

I have only just found this but what you describe sounds like th egr valve has a split in the diaphram (top hat shaped bit) diaphrams when they split make knocking noises.

the knock was definitely coming from the bottom end, plus the fact that the egr valve is fitted to the new engine with no knocking.

Best hope it's not just the steering pump aircon pump bearings shot out, they will knock also, and in the right area as well.

Like I said before, if the bottom end was really broken that engine would have seized in not many miles at all! You will probably find it's all OK down there, and it's gonna be something simple. I don't know whether to hope I'm right or wrong!! But I suppose you might have a good spare engine in the garage - albeit in bits

Like I said before, if the bottom end was really broken that engine would have seized in not many miles at all! You will probably find it's all OK down there, and it's gonna be something simple. I don't know whether to hope I'm right or wrong!! But I suppose you might have a good spare engine in the garage - albeit in bits

lol, ill be miffed if its all ok but at the same time ill know ive still got a good spare engine to rebuild in my spare time. .

i really want to get to the bottom of the engine Knock, supurbia mentioned that it could be the "steering pump aircon pump bearings shot out".!

the thing is, everything apart from the new engine "bare block and head" is still as it was.

If you say the ancileries are now back on with the new engine and are ok I would think as it's a PD the cams are done in, there make a lot of noise when they are done for, and it's not always a case of the wrong oil that causes it.

If you say the ancileries are now back on with the new engine and are ok I would think as it's a PD the cams are done in, there make a lot of noise when they are done for, and it's not always a case of the wrong oil that causes it.

yes ive heard that the cam can be the weak point on these engines. ive seen a few forged steel cams out there but never looked into any further.

ive had the cam out but cannot "see" anything wrong with it. is there anything in particular i should be looking for?

yes ive heard that the cam can be the weak point on these engines. ive seen a few forged steel cams out there but never looked into any further.

ive had the cam out but cannot "see" anything wrong with it. is there anything in particular i should be looking for?

I think this is one of the best guides to the issues around cam / lifter wear:

http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/multi/camshaft-inspection-replace-vw-tdi.htm

Yes you clown! the ASZ DOES FIT the longitudinal engine bay the same as Passat b5.5 and a4 etc. Just a few things needed such as clearing the unused rusty holes with a tap and bolt on those side mounts as well as ac pump as well as swapping the pipes over from the current car into this engine such as coolant and fuel etc and swap the belt pulley wit the double ribbed one from the old engine. job done. Fitted an ASZ myself into that car with no problems.

Er - this thread was 8 years ago!

I don't think I've ever seen a first post start with 'Yes you clown!'

 

Brilliant

Wtf I just read?! 😳