Low frequency 'boom' in cabin

[Leeboy22001]

Surely if it's a design fault skoda should repair under warranty?

[ima]

They should but I think people are running into dealers who can't hear the fault so won't trigger the warranty repair.

[snala]

Can you do some photos of the fix?

Go back to page 18 as pictures of mine are there.

I got my new buffers back in 2014 so god knows why its still going on like this 2 years later.

[lext89]

Can anyone tell part numbers of sport suspension for 1.4 TSI 6MT hatchback ?

[ima]

I'm sure this is mentioned in the previous 33 pages but anyone having issues, but I've just changed my rear Pirelli pzeroes for Goodyear f1 asymmetric 3's and the transformation is amazing. I found the pirellis transmitted terrible booming into the cabin and now the noise and vibration has gone and the reduction in overall noise has been amazing. Levels of grip also much better. As soon as I can afford to I'll replace the fronts as well.

[benjamino]

So, having read all 980 posts on this topic my heart sank at the thought that there could be a number of issues with the car, mainly the suspension. With a little bit of guess work and thought I decided to try the simple fixes first.

As mentioned towards the beginning of this topic I adjusted the 2 rubber stop on the boot lid by turning them one whole turn anticlockwise:

I then adjusting the two side stays to their highest setting:

 

That appeared to make a great deal of difference with the booming noise. But for that extra piece of mind I then carried out the following.

The next step was to order a box of this for just under £20:

The next step was to empty the boot:

Then it was time to line the boot with the soundproofing. After working out the best way to lay it, I cut the required sheets to size, heated the backs with a hair dryer then stuck them in place:

I also added a small strip along the bottom edge of the picture after trial fitting the space saver spare wheel, I didn't get a picture with it fitted unfortunately.

I then purchased one of these:

 

The result, for me at least, is that I have cured 95% of the noise that I was experiencing.

 

I hope this is of help to some of you suffering with this issue.

Edited 16 October, 2016 by benjamino

[stanian]

Been in touch with Škoda UK customer services, they say of course they have never heard of the problem, neither  so they say has my dealer, it is booked in for 7th of November for investigstions so I would like to take some other evidence with me. As Škoda UK say that if a certain number of people report the same issue, then something must be done so does anyone else have a case or reference number. for me to add to my evidence sheet please?

 

Thank you.

[themanwithnoaim]

Interestingly, I had raised the boot stops to really secure the boot but the cabin over pressured and made the boom really noticeable and my ears really uncomfortable. I put the stoppers on lowest setting and now only notice anything when going over really bad rumble strips or surfaces, and the ear pressure has gone. I'm finally really enjoying the car now. Putting in boot well soundproofing and spare tyre did really make a big difference in reducing suspension vibrations into the boot. Like you the final step is the tyres. The potenzas are 72 db and I'm changing shortly to goodyear asymetric 3 which is 5 db less.

I recently found the F1 Asymmetric 3 on Black circle for £72 a corner for the R17 225 45's

[Mence]

For what it's worth...

I have never experienced 'booming' as such although I would be the first to acknowledge that the car can be somewhat noisy inside.

I recently applied sound deadening material (rattle mat) to the boot floor and spare wheel well and despite having a spare wheel and a boot mat fitted, still noticed a positive improvement, it made the car an even better place to be. Total cost so far? £8.79.

I have purchased another pack and will tackle under the rear seat next, expecting further improvements.

[ima]

I recently found the F1 Asymmetric 3 on Black circle for £72 a corner for the R17 225 45's

Unfortunately for me 19" much more expensive. Best I could get was £142 per corner fitted

[BrynMawr]

Interesting, just arrived back in France having bought a 2013 estate 1.6tdi and thought the noise was annoying, almost like my ears needed to pop on an aircraft?? hopefully this will become lesss annoying the more I drive but worth reporting it to Skoda

[cabland]

My first post - tell me if this all sounds horribly familiar:

 

Symptom

I get the pressure pulse/pressure buffeting/boom typically at lower speeds on city streets with each suspension "hit"; multiple bumps and washboard style repeated bumps create a really fabulous buffeting sensation that feel like someone is clapping their hands over your ears.  It is both "felt" as well as heard with the bonus being headaches, etc.

It is aggravating enough that I want to consider getting rid of the car, but the financial hit won;t be pleasant...and its annoying to even have to consider it.

 

Some folks report they can't hear/feel it, but it is ridiculously bothersome to the rest of us.  If you have hearing/ear issues in particular it is REALLY bothersome.

 

Some demographics

1.  My car has the firmer suspension option

2.  The hatch is big and appears somewhat mis-aligned

3.  The car had the larger rims with lower profile tire option.

4.  I have the power hatch

 

Triage Items Attempted

1. Hatch Stops - Adjusted hatch adjusters/stops until I am blue in the face

2. Dealer Hatch Adjustment - Dealer tried to adjust hatch / striker / latch and hatch alignment.  This seemed to offer some success at first, but it "wore off"  or it was just a placebo and never really helped to begin with.

3.  Weatherstripping/gasket - I actually bought some aftermarket weatherstrip and taped it on top of the factory weatherstripping (gasket/seal whatever you want to call it) to try to create a thicker gasket - possibly slight improvement, but nothing material.  The factory weatherstripping appears to barely contact the hatch when shut (note: I applied a thin layer of grease all around it, shut it and re-opened it to observe the witness marks).

4.  Tape the Hatch - I actually taped the hatch shut with blue painters tape all the way around the outside of the hatch.  To preserve my dignity, I did this at night so I wouldn't have to drive my nice car around in the daytime with all this tape on it.  I need to do this test again (it has been a few weeks), BUT I noted at the time that this seemed to make a noticeable difference suggesting the hatch really was the culprit in some way, shape or form.

5.  Hatch vibration observed - I had my wife drive the car while I tried to push on the hatch - no real difference (not any real leverage for me though.  I swear as we went over one of the washboard strips I watched both the back parcel shelf and the hatch vibrate.  The hatch has the defroster lines and they practically blurred as the glass vibrated. I also made recordings  When you hear the buffeting (in real life) on the recording it sounds like static - essentially just like if you put you mouth on top of a mic and overwhelmed the mic.

6.  Softer suspension observation  - I had a loaner car with the softer base suspension (but still the larger wheels) and noticed the same buffeting, but it was less.  No doubt the softer dampers were simply transmitting less shock to the cabin.

7.  Wheel rim and tire swap - I have since switched to the base rims with the larger sidewalls and touring tires...no real difference in the boom/buffeting, but freeway ride is definitely quieter.

8.  Pillows a-go-go - Filled hatch area to the brim with pillows and blankets.  No improvement

 

 

So here's the kicker...I don't own a Skoda.  I am talking about my Tesla Model S.

 

I found this thread while looking for any information on boomy cabins and pressure buffeting and decided to join the forum just for this issue in hopes that I can learn from your travails and maybe you can learn from mine.  Feel free to Google "Tesla pressure buffeting".  You should also Google the issues GM (Chevy and GMC) had with their large SUVS - insane buffeting/boominess and dealer practically taking apart cars in an attempt to fix it (as with this thread, what "worked" for one person seemed to not work for another).  Finally, I even found a Porsche Caymen owner who put felt pads on his adjusters to address the issue.  Dealers from all makes are generally in denial about it all.

 

My guesses

If I had to guess at the sources of the issue at this point I would say it starts with suspension shock on impacts being transmitted to the body and in particular to the hatch area.  If the hatch is not PERFECTLY square on the gasket/seal/weatherstrip and well-supported then vibration is transmitted to it and it acts like a big speaker.  Better suspension isolation would help (i.e. perhaps there is little to no rubber between the strut tower and body), as would better shock tuning.  I also think better vibrations absorption would help.  However, I keep coming back to the hatch or at least the hatch area.  I already have a few good ideas from this thread that I intend to try like both tightening and loosening the hatch striker latch.  I do have one advantage - my 4 hatch stops are adjustable.  My bigger disadvantage is that my hatch is HUGE!

 

Anyway, I look forward to reading your comments and hope we can assist each other.

Just an update from me on my Tesla issue. I kept coming back to "hatch movement" on this issue, but no amount of adjusting the rubber hatch adjusters seemed to address it. I then began to wonder if the rubber adjusters themselves were too soft and would always allow the hatch to compress and release (causing a buffeting sensation) when going over bumps. I ended up replacing two of the four rubber screw out adjusters with a couple pieces of 3/4" diamter rubber heater hose. I had to experiment a bit to get a size that would allow the hatch to still shut while being tight. I have sinced even shaved it down a bit more. The result was a 70% improvement in the buffeting. I have ordered some rubber dowel/rod to try to make up a more permanent an aesthetically pleasing solution. I may try to rig up something for the other two location, but they will be more challenging.

I just wanted to pass this on to you guys as this forum helped to point me in this direction a bit. Will provide more updates if I get it any better.

[WillM82]

Sorry for dragging up an old thread, but was there ever a definitive answer?

 

I tried adjusting the bootlid by extending the two side stops to their highest point, then twisting the bottom rubber plugs firstly to the point where the boot sits proud and the dashboard shows the bootlid open when closed, then twisting back a notch such that it sits a little better and there is no boot open warning on the dash.

 

It doesn't seem to 'buffet' as badly, however there is still a definite vibration, as if the bootlid isn't correctly closed.

 

There was mention of updated stops - were these put into production? I try and search ebay for Octavia boot stops but it doesn't come up with anything. Does the facelift have updated stops that can be retrofitted?

 

There was mention of updated dampers - are these a 'secret recall' item that can be requested next service?

 

Parcel shelf - I did a quite run to the bottlebank with the parcel shelf off, to accomodate a tallish bin (very practical car!), made no difference.

Seatbacks - Tried slamming back the seatbacks in case they were loose (the Saab used to complain if this was the case), made no difference.

 

Could it be the case that the locking bar isn't snug enough and allowing the bootlid to move slightly? Maybe a bit of insulation around the loop just to ensure a tight fit?

 

Or as cabland finds with their Tesla, are the rubber stops no use? (Indeed, have these been updated since 2013/14 or the facelift?)

 

(Car spec - Nov 13 1.6 TDi SE hatch, DSG box, no spare wheel, no "simply clever" rubber mat)

Edited 16 February, 2017 by WillM82

[foregonereality]

I'm wondering if any changes have been made to the facelift hatch. Fortunately my frequency issues disappeared after adjusting the stops. 

[harrylime]

I imagine many miles must have been driven by test drivers when these cars were developed. A problem like this is unforgivable and has put me off an O3 to replace my O2 1.9. I have extra soundproofing in that, carpet underlay then boot mat etc. I may look at Audi instead, as refinement is a deal breaker for me, making long trips tiresome 

[Ron Bird]

Hi All, I have a new Mk III Greenline and this has the booming issue. My previous Mk I 1.9Tdi and my MkII Greenline did not have this problem.

 

It appears that one or more of the panels is resonating at something around 220 Hz (other people's estimate). Some think it may originate in the boot area around the spare wheel well but I have a spare wheel fitted there surrounded with bits of old carpet which should surely damp this noise out. The boot carpet is covered with a heavy rubber boot mat from the MkII, again this should damp the vibration out but the booming is still there.

 

I had a look at the rear suspension torsion bar from underneath which in cross section is in the shape of a bell, I hit it with a small hammer and it rang like a bell, alas not at the specific frequency we are looking for. To eliminate this possible source I cut up pieces of wood and glued them in which adequately damped out the bell like noise but the booming is still there.

 

Has anyone had any success with locating the source of this problem? Please log onto this forum and describe any procedures, successful or otherwise that you have done to your car to locate this source and share your findings with us.

[Srejber]

9 hours ago, Ron Bird said:

Hi All, I have a new Mk III Greenline and this has the booming issue. My previous Mk I 1.9Tdi and my MkII Greenline did not have this problem.

 

It appears that one or more of the panels is resonating at something around 220 Hz (other people's estimate). Some think it may originate in the boot area around the spare wheel well but I have a spare wheel fitted there surrounded with bits of old carpet which should surely damp this noise out. The boot carpet is covered with a heavy rubber boot mat from the MkII, again this should damp the vibration out but the booming is still there.

 

I had a look at the rear suspension torsion bar from underneath which in cross section is in the shape of a bell, I hit it with a small hammer and it rang like a bell, alas not at the specific frequency we are looking for. To eliminate this possible source I cut up pieces of wood and glued them in which adequately damped out the bell like noise but the booming is still there.

 

Has anyone had any success with locating the source of this problem? Please log onto this forum and describe any procedures, successful or otherwise that you have done to your car to locate this source and share your findings with us.

I am pretty sure it must come from the boot lid, playing with stoppers did the work, until significant change of weather. You need different settings for summer and winter, because the rubber change its  "softness" with temperature

[WillM82]

1 hour ago, Srejber said:

I am pretty sure it must come from the boot lid, playing with stoppers did the work, until significant change of weather. You need different settings for summer and winter, because the rubber change its  "softness" with temperature

 

It does feel to me to be the bootlid vibrating.

 

Ive played with the stoppers until I was blue in the face, makes little difference other than stopping the severe "window down" style pressure buffeting. The near-constant vibration is still there.

[Srejber]

4 minutes ago, WillM82 said:

 

It does feel to me to be the bootlid vibrating.

 

Ive played with the stoppers until I was blue in the face, makes little difference other than stopping the severe "window down" style pressure buffeting. The near-constant vibration is still there.

try to drive with bootlid ajar, you will hear beautiful nothing! BTW: do you have hatch or wagon?

 

[WillM82]

1 minute ago, Srejber said:

try to drive with bootlid ajar, you will hear beautiful nothing! BTW: do you have hatch or wagon?

 

 

Would do, but it's usually drizzling rain, I'll get the false floor wood soaked!

 

It's a hatch, 2013 1.6TDi, no spare wheel or "simply clever" mat.

[mikenippard]

I am amazed this issue is still going three years on. I had this problem with my 1.4 tsi estate from June 2014, tried all sorts of solutions, but in the end got rid of it

in Jan 15 as I could no longer stand it. I was so dissapointed, but concluded this was an inherent design fault. I lost money of course, but was so glad it was gone.

Good luck to you all!

[Srejber]

3 hours ago, WillM82 said:

 

Would do, but it's usually drizzling rain, I'll get the false floor wood soaked!

 

It's a hatch, 2013 1.6TDi, no spare wheel or "simply clever" mat.

Ok, When you look at the bottom part of the lid, do you see two rubber bumpers coming from the black plastic trim? These two bumpers support the lid and prevents the lid from moving up and down while driving, do you have them? Hatches from 2016 have it and certainly no drumming here!

[WillM82]

Yep I adjusted the bumpers, if I adjust them more the boot sits too high and the dashboard shows the bootlid open icon.

 

I twist them slightly so the boot just about closes and the dashboard no longer shows that it thinks the bootlid is open.

 

I've adjusted the side stoppers to their highest too, I'm wondering if they need to go even higher?

[Srejber]

1 hour ago, WillM82 said:

Yep I adjusted the bumpers, if I adjust them more the boot sits too high and the dashboard shows the bootlid open icon.

 

I twist them slightly so the boot just about closes and the dashboard no longer shows that it thinks the bootlid is open.

 

I've adjusted the side stoppers to their highest too, I'm wondering if they need to go even higher?

Don't think so, imagine you have four support points in stoppers and bumpers, also mind the hinges so you have six support points for the lid. Everything you need is to set them balanced. All must support the lid with the same pressure/power. Then there is 

[WillM82]

I don't really want to be adjusting the hinge, the bootlid is quite a large piece of bodywork, don't want to damage anything!