The most effective way to climb a hill is to miss gears if required, I will have to remember that one, shame they can't put it on the road signs.

12 minutes ago, J.R. said:

The most effective way to climb a hill is to miss gears if required, I will have to remember that one, shame they can't put it on the road signs.

I should have put depending on the approach to the climb, I was more meaning that some people think you can't change gear other than to the very next gear - but the displays give instructions in the modern Fabia I notice, never shown 2nd to 5th though.

 

9 hours ago, nta16 said:

might be missing something (i often am, and do) but as someone who's been driving carb engined cars since the 1970s and has been driving carb'd cars off and on for the last 30 years as daily drivers including a twin carb car for the last 13 you've lost me

Well carbs work on venturi principle therefore the higher the air velocity trough them the higlwr the fuel flow so even if you are off gas carbies will flow fuel depended on your rpm 

10 hours ago, nta16 said:

For carburettor, as generally, do not accelerate or brake harshly, lift off acceleration instead of or before braking

 

A Vacuum gauge on the driver's column wont help?

Very interesting all these i read, but climbing a hill a prefer to have 3rd gear at the maximum torque 2600-2700rpm at a road of 10% uphill, than have 4th gear with higher engine load. Maybe I'm wrong, 

Question: On higher engine load 10% uphill,. 4th gear, 2200rpm, gad pedal at 50%or more, does it consumes more?  Maybe a silly question.. 🙄

1 hour ago, HappySkoda said:

gad pedal at 50%or more, does it consumes mor

less than 3rd on the same speed

On 14/11/2021 at 07:28, Thefeliciahacker said:

Well carbs work on venturi principle therefore the higher the air velocity trough them the higlwr the fuel flow so even if you are off gas carbies will flow fuel depended on your rpm 

Thank you for the reply, I understand this but I think  we're thinking of different things along different tracks.

 

On 14/11/2021 at 08:42, D.FYLAKTOS said:

 

A Vacuum gauge on the driver's column wont help?

A vacuum gauge as used in the 60s and 70s would help greatly in this.

 

https://www.caigauge.com/blog/new-smiths-vacuum-gauge-launched-by-cai

 

14 hours ago, nta16 said:

A vacuum gauge as used in the 60s and 70s would help greatly in this.

 

An older video

 

 

and another one compared with a Scan gauge.

 

 

Good videos, the gauge gives a register of how you can drive with more control and efficiently, something that can be taught or picked up with experience but probably honed more with the gauge.

 

Though I don't fully agree with everything in the second video, you do not want to be going too far outside of manufacturers' recommendations on tyre pressures going to the higher recommended setting will reduce rolling resistance, my wife's Fabia Mk3 is run at the Eco setting of 35 psi instead of 30 psi and it makes a noticeable difference on the rolling resistance but at a small loss to handling. The size and type of wheels and tyres can also make a difference. Rather than running the engine oil low on the dipstick put in good quality oil with less resistance and timely change this goes for transmission oils too.  As for the big exhaust that depends on the system and the engine and its set up.

 

And with percentages you must always ask "as a percentage of what", an extra 1 mpg over the original 1 mpg saving might be express as a 200% saving.

 

A couple of good engine/carb rolling road tuners I have been to in the past have said that a vacuum gauge would help with mpg and driving.

 

Edited 16 November, 20214 yr by nta16

2 hours ago, nta16 said:

on tyre pressures going to the higher recommended setting will reduce rolling resistance, my wife's Fabia Mk3 is run at the Eco setting of 35 psi instead of 30 psi and it makes a noticeable difference on the rolling resistance but at a small loss to handling.

 

 

No problem with puddles?

The braking distance isn't different?

Driving on wet weather does not feel the steering wheel more ''light'' ?

1 hour ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

 

No problem with puddles?

The braking distance isn't different?

Driving on wet weather does not feel the steering wheel more ''light'' ?

No, no problem with puddles.

Braking distance I'd say not as the higher pressure is a specified option by the manufacturer, bear mind I was referring to a 2016 Fabia MK3 so a modern car with an alphabet-soup of braking and driving electronic aids for drive and tyres, of course they can't overcome the physics of tyre to road surface.

The car feel light on dry roads so you're ready for wet roads.

 

As the Fabia Mk3, at least the one my wife has, isn't the greatest handling chassis in the world, but perfectly adequate, it's a matter of sacrificing a little bit of that handling for less rolling resistance which I find very noticeable.  I have to lift off the pedal earlier to slow down otherwise I need to brake more and perhaps leave more distance say from the car in front that will brake harder over a shorter distance to slow for changes in speed restrictions as my speed rolls off slower from reduced rolling resistance and reduced braking.

 

On the way a mate had a 90s Jag saloon, long heaver cars, that was a Sport model and IIRC one of the highly technical British sports suspension setting in the Driver's Handbook was higher tyre pressures, remember these are heavy cars.

 

On 14/11/2021 at 00:26, Thefeliciahacker said:

For any engine you want to run in the highest bsfc. 

I've searched for an efficiency map for Škoda 135/136 engines but couldn't find any. That could be useful.

 

On 14/11/2021 at 01:09, nta16 said:

Good general driving skills (and I'm not saying I have them) will help with a carb'd vehicle.

 

Driver training helps with efficiency - and after keeping the vehicle well serviced, maintained and repaired is the best tuning you can get for the vehicle and is transferable to other vehicles of the same type.

 

Cheers to that. Especially on your everyday route, you can train yourself to be precisely efficient.

 

On 14/11/2021 at 11:42, D.FYLAKTOS said:

A Vacuum gauge on the driver's column wont help?

Again, I like the way you think. Thanks. Your mods in your car are for additional vital functions but made with style. 😎

I also know from your previous posts, you make use of your gauges for better understanding the engine condition thus all adds up for fuel efficiency for you.

For diagnosing and adjusting the engine, I bought this vacuum gauge.

Because I have a non-vacuum distributor, the vacuum connection on the carburetor for distributor is bunged off. Technically it's child's play to make permanent connection but aesthetically it's a nightmare.

I've looked for an automotive style everywhere but no one knows or interested in vacuum meters for cars around here. The vacuum meter pictured above is for milk suction machines. 🐮

They sell the same vacuum meter with the input from back. Maybe that will ease the installation but it still requires an aesthetics genius to install this.

 

On 14/11/2021 at 12:53, HappySkoda said:

Very interesting all these i read, but climbing a hill a prefer to have 3rd gear at the maximum torque 2600-2700rpm at a road of 10% uphill, than have 4th gear with higher engine load. Maybe I'm wrong, 

Question: On higher engine load 10% uphill,. 4th gear, 2200rpm, gad pedal at 50%or more, does it consumes more?  Maybe a silly question.. 🙄

You asked just what I have in my mind. I have this climb here every day I take. I can't decide how to climb. On 2nd gear full throttle the engine can rev up to 4000 easily. If I keep the throttle less than %50, I can climb with 40Km/h around 2000rpm @ 2nd gear. If I shift to 3rd it requires pedal-to-metal to keep the speed at a steady 40-50Km/h and I can feel the heat blasting from the firewall even the blower fan is off. If the traffic is not pushing, I climb here 2nd gear and slow. I even think about recording a video to post here just to ask.

Can you not go off the inlet manifold or tee into any existing supply?

 

There are lots of cars vacuum gauges about, new or used, sometimes were called economy gauges, Redex gauges were well know here back in the day I believe (even I am too young to know), eBay and others and the Smiths one I linked to.

 

For the hill it depends on how long it is and if it's a steady regular climb without levelling off and tight bends and how much load the vehicle is carrying, altitude and all that was mentioned before.

 

You certainly don't want to be at full throttle in 2nd gear for too long or at 4,000rpm, unless you are racing.

 

I depends on your gearing and engine power as to how good going at 2,000rpm is.  Do you know your vehicle's actual or claimed torque figures at different points of revs? 

 

If you know the gearbox and axle ratios and can give me your tyre size I have a table for revs to mph for 1st to 5th gears.

 

 

 

Edited 17 November, 20214 yr by nta16

30 minutes ago, nta16 said:

Can you not go off the inlet manifold or tee into any existing supply?

Of course. There is an unused connection on the carburetor normally where the distributor is connected. But in my case I have Renault 12 distributor retrofitted and it doesn't use vacuum so that connection is bunged off with a short hose which has a screw inside of it. It seems plug and play using that port but if there is a technical limitation that I don't know, I can always make the connection like you described above.

 

38 minutes ago, nta16 said:

You certainly don't want to be at full throttle in 2nd gear for too long or at 4,000rpm, unless you are racing.

I only mentioned that to describe hill level.

 

39 minutes ago, nta16 said:

I depends on your gearing and engine power as to how good going at 2,000rpm is.  Do you know your vehicle's actual or claimed torque figures at different points of revs? 

 

If you know the gearbox and axle ratios and can give me your tyre size I have a table for revs to mph for 1st to 5th gears.

Unfortunately, I don't have dyno result. For the gear ratios, I've learned that, there is a marking on the gearbox which has serial number info on it. Also that gives the info about what type of gearbox is used. I'll find it and tell you the exact final drive ratio.

http://www.vseofavoritech.cz/forum/vin.php

 

48 minutes ago, nta16 said:

There are lots of cars vacuum gauges about, new or used, sometimes were called economy gauges, Redex gauges were well know here back in the day I believe (even I am too young to know), eBay and others and the Smiths one I linked to.

There are good gauges you have there. I'll look for other sources, like used item e-markets too.

The photos and information are not mine but just taken from the internet.

 

On reading the information on the Smiths gauge it reminded me that they were also known as Econometers.

 

This might suit you car - "A  NEW OLD STOCK ECONOMETER VACUUM GAUGE 2 INCH", no numbers on the gauge to worry about how accurate or not the gauge reading is like most gauges of yesterday you just had to know the needle position on the gauge that is usual or good for your car without worrying about the numbers and how they might compare to other vehicles. -https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/334172075443

 

45 minutes ago, nta16 said:

were also known as Econometers.

 BMW older models had it in their dashboard.

 

Vacuum gauges in three colours (green-yellow-red) and white needle were very famous back in the carburetor days.

Very easy to read.

In the UK back then, and now still to some extent, people who bought BMW were not interest in fuel economy and to suggest such would diminished the marque's UK snob appeal.

 

Later on the fashion was to debadge the car, removing the badges for model level and engine size, so that it would be less easy to see it was not higher up in the range and give the impression it might be a more expensive model.

 

Edited 17 November, 20214 yr by nta16

3 hours ago, nta16 said:

Later on the fashion was to debadge the car, removing the badges for model level and engine size, so that it would be less easy to see it was not higher up in the range and give the impression it might be a more expensive model.

 

Or, in some cases, putting badges on that indicate more performance, no? I'm aiming this at people with stock 5-series BMWs who stick an M5 badge set on it.

42 minutes ago, AnnoyingPentium said:

 

Or, in some cases, putting badges on that indicate more performance, no? I'm aiming this at people with stock 5-series BMWs who stick an M5 badge set on it.

16V sticker on an old 8 valve car, turbo sticker or turbo sound devices on the tail pipe, GTi stickers, plastic discs as rear brake disks etc. 

51 minutes ago, AnnoyingPentium said:

 

Or, in some cases, putting badges on that indicate more performance, no? I'm aiming this at people with stock 5-series BMWs who stick an M5 badge set on it.

Well, there was one Trabant I saw in Germany that had stick-on lettering reading "Trabi Twin Turbo 16 Valve Water Injection", which only just fitted between the rear lights!

Edited 17 November, 20214 yr by KenONeill

11 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

16V sticker on an old 8 valve car, turbo sticker or turbo sound devices on the tail pipe, GTi stickers, plastic discs as rear brake disks etc. 

Καγκουριά!!! 😂😂😂 Sorry guys. But i dont know how to translate it!!! Or huge stickers at the doors with a catalogue of aftermarket stuff like Eibach, Bilstein, OZ, and the car at factory contition!!! 😂😂😂

On 13/11/2021 at 12:24, R_Blue said:

What is the most efficient way to climb hills?

 

Also do you have any tips for carburetor engines please?

 

Most efficient way is to carry as much momentum from road before. Even speeding up, if you go downhill before, keeping it at highest gear possible. 

 

Unfortunately, I know nothing about how carburettors are set up.. I guess it's better to keep them at 1st stage and keep from rapid changes of loads, but I'm not sure about that.

2 hours ago, HappySkoda said:

Καγκουριά!!! 😂😂😂 Sorry guys. But i dont know how to translate it!!!

 

Ricer car is the term in english (slang).

 

36 minutes ago, Papez said:

Also do you have any tips for carburetor engines please?

 

At the 70's-80's i remember that the taxi drivers at the downhill or in the highway they put the Neutral for few seconds and the car was rolling with his own speed, that was a trick of that era for gas economy.

2 hours ago, HappySkoda said:

huge stickers at the doors with a catalogue of aftermarket stuff

In English we call that a "shopping list" (of stuff you'd like to buy and fit but haven't).