It's not something I have ever heard of, mines running the standard oil.

I just ensure I have mechanical sympathy, no heavy load / excessive RPM when cold etc.

Ive almost finished my ITG install, I'm making an oversized custom airbox which attaches to the OE scoop on the grille (which I've also modified)

Its much more responsive with the ITG, the custom air box will ensure the coldest air goes through the intake.

Nice   will you be posting up a thread on the ITG custom air box? I agree with being mechanical sympathy etc...as I only put my foot down once the engine oil temp is at least above 75.

 

http://r-techperformance.co.uk/2-0-tfsi-stage-1-guide/

 

That link above mentions about 5w-40w for a remap stage 1 as a minimum requirement! but might just be tuner related for that firm, also doe's explain some information about heat & flow 

 

I also looked around a few other tuners etc but can't seem to find anymore info about what oil spec grade should be used? so I can't see any harm in sticking to the OEM standard oil grade.

 

Cheers 

Xpower I'm in line for a remap some time soon & very impressed with your results But some stories I've heard about a remap on the 2.0TSI is that you should also change the oil grade from quantum III 5w-30w or castrol To quantum platinum 5w-40w? Is this something you have heard of or personally done!

Would be an interesting factor to know, especially as we all like to look after our cars.

 

Two of our cars, (the older ones...) have been remapped & after reading the lubrication recommendations in the owners manuals I've shifted to 

VW 502/ 505 oils, EG 5w40w.

 

We don't do high miles so annual oil changes a 15,000km's aren't a real expense, but the 5/40 oils are much tougher& seem to be formulated for 

"brisk" driving.

 

VW/Skoda use the the thin oils from new 'cos it helps with the emissions / fuel consumption figures but we are going to get our Golf serviced at or before the

1-year point & reset for annual servicing with 5/40 oil.

 

If you want professional advice, try phoning any of the UK based oil companies, I've always found Castol to be most helpful.

 

 

DC

5w40 is thicker oil which is better suited to hot climates. 5w30 is thinner and lubricates better in cooler/temperate climates, and from cold-starts. As most engine wear occurs from cold start, I would say 5w30 is the safer option, at least within Europe.

Cheers newbie & orville for the advice/input, I will check around & see what other info I can gather as regards oil grade for remapped cars etc...

 

Also I don't want to be seen as spamming xpower's thread   just thought to ask the question, seeing that xpower's car is already mapped & seeing if maybe he knew anything about this too.

 

I did have a FSR+ box from DTUK which did give a good improvement on power, but I wanted everything that the engine had to give.

 

 

In one of the other threads I think you said you were worried about the DTE box running so lean with boost. I am just interested in what was giving you the concern? I have to admit even looking at the standard map and seeing it running so close to stoichiometric through boost and WOT would have made me concerned in the past but I guess they are made to do that?

 

I understand they have quite powerful protection mechanisms to prevent it running lean including using both banks of injectors when needed. Although it is running hotter/higher boost I wonder would these be any less effective than on the standard map?

 

Don't get me wrong, I see all the benefits of running a bit richer and that would be my gut feeling too but I would not run the standard map either but I guess they have thought it through a bit.

 

I don't have a box or remap on mine so no axe to grind either way, just genuinely curious as to what made you think that.

 

5w40 is thicker oil which is better suited to hot climates. 5w30 is thinner and lubricates better in cooler/temperate climates, and from cold-starts. As most engine wear occurs from cold start, I would say 5w30 is the safer option, at least within Europe.

 

I think the issue is that the thinner oil tends to mist in more modified engines and then is circulated in through the crankcase ventilation. Not ideal for a few reasons. I understand 5w40 is less prone to this. Not sure how much one does it compared to the other but I get the theory.

Nice will you be posting up a thread on the ITG custom air box? I agree with being mechanical sympathy etc...as I only put my foot down once the engine oil temp is at least above 75.

http://r-techperformance.co.uk/2-0-tfsi-stage-1-guide/

That link above mentions about 5w-40w for a remap stage 1 as a minimum requirement! but might just be tuner related for that firm, also doe's explain some information about heat & flow

I also looked around a few other tuners etc but can't seem to find anymore info about what oil spec grade should be used? so I can't see any harm in sticking to the OEM standard oil grade.

Cheers

I have already started a thread here, I will add the custom airbox to it once I've finished (next week hopefully)

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/408803-vrs-tsi-induction-options/#entry4696274

In one of the other threads I think you said you were worried about the DTE box running so lean with boost. I am just interested in what was giving you the concern? I have to admit even looking at the standard map and seeing it running so close to stoichiometric through boost and WOT would have made me concerned in the past but I guess they are made to do that?

I understand they have quite powerful protection mechanisms to prevent it running lean including using both banks of injectors when needed. Although it is running hotter/higher boost I wonder would these be any less effective than on the standard map?

Don't get me wrong, I see all the benefits of running a bit richer and that would be my gut feeling too but I would not run the standard map either but I guess they have thought it through a bit.

I don't have a box or remap on mine so no axe to grind either way, just genuinely curious as to what made you think that.

I agree completely, even the std map is not rich enough for my liking. These new engines run leaner now than ever before by design, but there's no getting away from the engine can produce more power and torque with a richer mixture (providing all other variables are correct).

I've had issues on older engines running higher boost without the ECU knowing about it, but nothing on the new stuff.

I'm just happier running with my current setup knowing that when you push on I'm not cooking the piston crowns or the rings.

I've had issues on older engines running higher boost without the ECU knowing about it, but nothing on the new stuff.

I'm just happier running with my current setup knowing that when you push on I'm not cooking the piston crowns or the rings.

 

Oh yes but back then boost came from fish tank valves, injectors were maxed out, nitrous overcame turbo-lag and water injection kept it all together.

 

When you ran out of water "cooked" doesn't really describe it