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Yeti TD170 Battery Change


lbl25a

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My 2010 Yeti now needs a new battery. Good that the first one lasted 6 years but bad that I wasn't advised to change it at the last service last month.

I went out and bought a new battery before reading the manual but now see that Skoda say that the battery must be changed by a specialist garage or major damage may occur. I have always changed my own batteries on previous cars but is there something I should know before I try it on this one?

I have searched the forum but can't find any topic that covers this.

Tony

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I've not had to change any battery so far but many have reported doing so on the Yeti forum. I can not foresee any problems and would suggest that the Skoda safety note is the normal 'catch all' comment. Obviously get the battery the right way round and make sure you don't short out the battery etc., etc. Others who've changed a battery will no doubt comment and give you good advice.

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I was advised on the Ross-Tech VCDS forum that its OK to disconnect the battery on the Yeti, but after re-connection some of the warning lamps that usually go out  before driving away may remain on for a minute or to until the ECU resets. This may be totally dependent on year as some have reported no changes.

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What about the radio security code, if there is one?

 

It recognises the car so no code needed.

 

As long as you replace with the same capacity battery you will be fine, if not, some coding in the battery management system may be required.

 

You will get the power steering lamp on when you disconnect but it will go out once you start driving.

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Thanks for all the info, I don't know why my original search didn't find the link to previous posts so thanks for that.

My local parts supplier had a Varna D5 Silver Dynamic battery that fitted perfectly.

After first switch on I got an ESP error warning and the ESP and power steering lights stayed on until I had driven the car a few yards.

All this was explained in the manual after I found the right pages so all seems OK.

Tony

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Sorry but only half a story here. Seeking the answer was not relevant to me at the time.

 

In my dealer today having an AdBlue top-up prior to a Euro jolly, I noticed a servicing offers / new batteries / etc flyer.

 

There was a noticeable difference in battery replacement costs (maybe £50ish) between a typical Skoda model with stop/start and the same model without.

 

Purely out of interest, is this £++ due to the need of a more robust battery or more resetting required with the stop/start system?

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Sorry but only half a story here. Seeking the answer was not relevant to me at the time.

 

In my dealer today having an AdBlue top-up prior to a Euro jolly, I noticed a servicing offers / new batteries / etc flyer.

 

There was a noticeable difference in battery replacement costs (maybe £50ish) between a typical Skoda model with stop/start and the same model without.

 

Purely out of interest, is this £++ due to the need of a more robust battery or more resetting required with the stop/start system?

Larger capacity for stop start and energy recovery, but I believe all Yeti's now come with Stop Start and Energy Recovery.

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Larger capacity for stop start and energy recovery, but I believe all Yeti's now come with Stop Start and Energy Recovery.

 

The stated capacity isn't any bigger than a normal battery, 

 

Start/stop cars have an AGM battery which have many benefits over a flooded style battery such as coping better when deep cycled and being able to charge faster hence why they perform better in cars with start/stop.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Had a battery change day before yesterday,the man connected my Yeti to another battery before disconnecting my old one.He said it is to keep the onboard computer running.

Edited by oriki
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The ECU has the capacity to remember 2 codes as i found out when i updated my 2005 Octavia to a MFD2 Navigation unit from the standard stream radio, Later i updated again to a Columbus RNS510 which further down the road I had a problem with so i put my original Stream radio back in as I had sold the MFD2 and it was forgotten by the ECU and I had to get the code from the dealers. So if you upgrade to another unit then swap back there is no problem it will remember but introduce a third unit and it will forget the last one installed.

Edited by SimRacer
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The ECU has the capacity to remember 2 codes as i found out when i updated my 2005 Octavia to a MFD2 Navigation unit from the standard stream radio, Later i updated again to a Columbus RNS510 which further down the road I had a problem with so i put my original Stream radio back in as I had sold the MFD2 and it was forgotten by the ECU and I had to get the code from the dealers. So if you upgrade to another unit then swap back there is no problem it will remember but introduce a third unit and it will forget the last one installed.

Nonsense. I've had about 30 different Columbus units in my car and every time I replace one with a previously used one it remembers the code / unit. Even when I put the original Bolero back in it carries on as before. Something must've upset your system somehow.

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Possibly connecting two batteries to it at once?

How would you do that?

 

I mean, short of wiring in a second set of battery clamps that is. Even if you did, why would it cause issues as long as the 2 batteries were in parallel, so that the rest of the car "sees", say, a 120Ah 12v unit rather than a 60Ah 24v?

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In the absence of having a third 12v battery to hand to keep connected while u remove the first n connect the 2nd, what is the minimum voltage to maintain systems for the time it takes to swap the batteries?

Would 9v work?

Could you use a 12v standard battery charger?

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In the absence of having a third 12v battery to hand to keep connected while u remove the first n connect the 2nd, what is the minimum voltage to maintain systems for the time it takes to swap the batteries?

Would 9v work?

Could you use a 12v standard battery charger?

Ctek battery chargers have a mode where it can be used as a power supply. This can be utilised to save the memory on cars.

 

But as Llanigragam said, there is nothing to lose apart from the time and the data from the trip computer. The clock takes all of 10 seconds to set and the trip distance can be recorded if you like working out MPG each tank.

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  • 1 year later...

I'm relying on the simplicity of this statement by Llanigraham as I intend to change the battery on my 31,000 mile 2011 CR 140 Yeti. OEM battery is a Varta and Skoda has been flagging it as RED, i.e. not holding charge, for several months now but I can't fault it. I've parked the car up for a week and it starts sweet as ever. However, it's going to be parked for 4 weeks soon at an airport so rather than risk it I'll change it. Every battery supplier says it should have a 175x278x190mm battery all of which are much greater amh than my OEM one and are larger than my felt box. I guess they're taking their cue from Varta which says this but it seems wrong to me. I believe that I should get a Varta Silver  027/D15 which has a close enough amh to my current battery and is the same size as that. Can anyone tell me that I'm wrong before I commit myself to a buy?

Edited by Wendizz
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Thank you. That didn't come up in the search that I did. I did find djgilsons post on this subject which suggests that the Varta 027/D15 is bfine for my Yeti.

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