Hi DenzilB - my Yeti is 4 years old as well and has the same leak problem. Would it be possible for you to post a video or picture showing just where you put the "Captain Tolley's"? as I'm really not a very good mechanic and I haven't got a clear image of how this fix works. I hope that's not too much trouble. Cheers mikeOS.

 

Hi MikeOS. Figure 2 on the original 7 page document shows the location. Basically between the straight aluminium extrusions which form the sides of the frame, and the plastic mouldings which go at the front and rear. There is a form of overlapping joint between the two. Once you’ve removed the spring loaded bug catcher from the front of the opening you’ll be able to see it more clearly, I cleaned up the joint, dried it thoroughly and just worked a small amount of sealant into the area using a syringe and needle over two days.

UNITED 232 and other contributors. Thank you. My mums car (L&K Yeti 2013) has had little use and always main dealer serviced. After some minor damage 2 years ago, the insurance repair ended up with over £1000 of work to fix an additional water ingress issue as described. Mum had a stroke 3 months ago and i went up last week to check on things and found the car in a terrible mess inside. I've brought it south and may attempt to repair but what a mess! see pics attached.

 

 

What a very sad Yeti.  I wish you well in your efforts to restore the poor thing 😧

that is unbelievable,  you are going to have a hell of a job cleaning that up, good luck with it

If it is insured it may be possible to write it off, as my experience with this sort of damage is that it is almost imposibble to completely remove it, and then the leak still needs to be fixed at more cost?

4 hours ago, scottbott said:

that is unbelievable,  you are going to have a hell of a job cleaning that up, good luck with it

 

It comes off fairly easily, just look at the part of the drivers seat shown in the photo.

 

Its just hard work and pretty fruitless unless you can remove the source of moisture entry.

 

I have brought back several buildings from the brink including my own UK residence, converted shed & wooden conservatory after a roof leak over the whole of the winter, soft furnishings and all woodwork even melamine looked like that, once the leak stopped then the 24/7 ventilation (I have a VMC installed) do the rest, there were some primed doors (French) never painted because the white primer is quite acceptable, they had black mould spots all over them, the mould cleaned off but the black staining resisted everything including bleach but after several months of ventilation plus the summer heat they dissapeared, same deal with all the suspended ceiling tiles.

 

Once you have cleaned off all the visible mould and dried the vehicle I would put it in a garage with a dehumidifier running inside the vehicle with all the windows cracked open, this will dry the remaining moisture and also act as the ventilation that is vitally needed.

On 27/01/2020 at 19:20, United232 said:

Hi All

 

As the original poster, I've had quite a few people contact me over the last couple of years, enquiring as to the effectiveness of the repair.

 

Happily I can confirm that after two years, ~16,000 miles and a couple of ... let's face it ... pretty testing winters, the vehicle remains 100% dry inside. Not even any condensation on the glass in the coldest of conditions. And that's what I'd expect, given the properties of the sealer used, and the way in which it was applied.

 

There is one point I may have failed to make absolutely clear though, and it's likely to be where the odd one or two may have fallen down. And @moris, with respect I can see you're heading that way too. The sealer is a water-based material, and so it remains vulnerable until it's cured. If you apply it to a wet environment, or an environment which is irrigated, it will ... at the risk of stating the bleedin' obvious ... just get washed out. It is therefore imperative that the repair site is absolutely dry, and remains that way until the sealer has cured. I know that's going to prove a challenge if you can't get the vehicle indoors, dry the affected area properly* and keep it that way for the duration of the remediation process.

 

It's an irony that these things come to light only in the conditions that are most adverse to effecting their repair. If you're really stuck with it though, you could consider taping up the roof gap (as many have said), and postponing the repair until the better weather is here. Just be careful that any tape you use comes off after a few months (unlike masking tape) and doesn't bring any paint or lacquer with it. Oh, and it's waterproof! 

 

* When it comes to drying the affected area, probably the worst way of doing this in these damp conditions is to used forced warm air - the warm air will merely absorb more and more moisture until it finds a cold object on which to condense. And that'll be the aluminium channel you're trying to seal.

 

Good luck and better weather!

 

Thank you United232 for your excellent, clear and helpful original 2018 report.  I have bought some essential tools!  You have given me the courage to DIY this water ingress repair :-)

 

I now have my '64 Yeti in my garage (only just !), the driver's seat removed and all bolts and plugs removed (bar one) in order to dry out carpet, underlay and foam.  To recap, there is no evidence (that I can see) of water ingress through the panoramic sun roof.. This was replaced 18 months ago by Skoda for just that issue.  No further issues with water ingress until a few weeks ago - same place, driver's footwell, OFS.  This time the roof lining is dry, and no drops of water can be seen where before it was obvious.  The drain tubes are clear of any blockages, draining water efficiently from a bottle administered into the front cassette corners.  

 

So, Question 1: How is the foam beneath the pedals getting soaked?

See Image 1:

 

Image 1.

 

Question 2:  How is this remaining plastic plug to be removed?  See Image 2:

 

Image 2.

 

To fully dry out the carpet, etc, I really should remove it all.

 

So, in summary, I would be grateful for any help, from your good self, United232, or indeed from the noble folk that make this Forum such a breath of fresh air!

 

Many thanks !

 

Not sure about the Yeti but on the superb if the drain on the scuttle area blocks water gets into the car through a cover. Ruined carpet had to be replaced together with electrics under seat

Hi, 

 

Long story short, pan roof leaking in a 2016 Yeti. Repair quote is eye wateringly expensive. I see United 232 posted a pdf for a repair a while ago, but it's gone. Does anyone have any suggestions, or able to share the pdf? 

 

Thanks in advance

4 hours ago, Yeti-YMe said:

Hi, 

 

Long story short, pan roof leaking in a 2016 Yeti. Repair quote is eye wateringly expensive. I see United 232 posted a pdf for a repair a while ago, but it's gone. Does anyone have any suggestions, or able to share the pdf? 

 

Thanks in advance

 

Yeti Panoramic Roof Leak.pdf

Thanks Martinb100

Hi, Just got off the phone to Skoda, the repair is £3.5k!!!!!

5 hours ago, Yeti-YMe said:

Hi, Just got off the phone to Skoda, the repair is £3.5k!!!!!

Hello Yeti-YMe.

I found Martinb100's file so very clear and helpful.  In fact it encouraged me to tackle the issue (though not identical).  Since completion (and a mechanic's modest involvement) the car's remained dry!

Wish you every success!

Hi all,

 

For what it's worth, I've just had the same/similar leak in a 2016 yeti on the passenger side. Upon pulling down the headliner etc I found it to be leaking in the place mentioned by the original poster, where the plastic meets the aluminium, just a few drops at a time but enough over a weekend to soak the passenger footwell.

 

I unscrewed and pulled the wind-deflector back, and found a quite crude repair with black silicon on the drivers side already in place, which explained why the a-cover on the drivers side had been slightly misfitted.

 

As I have no garage/undercover parking, and the recent weather has been unpredictable at best, I've had to attempt to repair the leak outside/uncovered. For this reason I tried the Burgess Marine Creepy Crack Seal (as a previous poster mentioned), as this says it will still set in the presence of water.

 

Over three days I progressively added a drop at a time via syringe to the spot. Allowed to dry and repeated. Probably added about 10 layers. Temp was <10 degrees. At the beginning it didn't appear to be doing anything but gradually it built up a layer over the area. Thus far, about three weeks in, it appears to be watertight. Will update if any failure.

 

 

(oh, and to add, many thanks to this forum for the methodology!!!)

17 hours ago, karpayn said:

Hello Yeti-YMe.

I found Martinb100's file so very clear and helpful.  In fact it encouraged me to tackle the issue (though not identical).  Since completion (and a mechanic's modest involvement) the car's remained dry!

Wish you every success!

Thanks. I'm no mechanic, I'm afraid, and a local garage (who are Audi, Skoda & VW approved repair guys), have said that they'll follow the pdf (but of course can't guarantee anything), for £650.00 + sealant. Does that sound ok? 

4 minutes ago, Bobbsy said:

Hi all,

 

For what it's worth, I've just had the same/similar leak in a 2016 yeti on the passenger side. Upon pulling down the headliner etc I found it to be leaking in the place mentioned by the original poster, where the plastic meets the aluminium, just a few drops at a time but enough over a weekend to soak the passenger footwell.

 

I unscrewed and pulled the wind-deflector back, and found a quite crude repair with black silicon on the drivers side already in place, which explained why the a-cover on the drivers side had been slightly misfitted.

 

As I have no garage/undercover parking, and the recent weather has been unpredictable at best, I've had to attempt to repair the leak outside/uncovered. For this reason I tried the Burgess Marine Creepy Crack Seal (as a previous poster mentioned), as this says it will still set in the presence of water.

 

Over three days I progressively added a drop at a time via syringe to the spot. Allowed to dry and repeated. Probably added about 10 layers. Temp was <10 degrees. At the beginning it didn't appear to be doing anything but gradually it built up a layer over the area. Thus far, about three weeks in, it appears to be watertight. Will update if any failure.

 

 

Thanks for the advice. Where do you get Burgess Marine Creepy Crack Seal? 

2 minutes ago, Yeti-YMe said:

Thanks for the advice. Where do you get Burgess Marine Creepy Crack Seal? 

Mostly marine supply shops.
Google is your friend.

 

9 minutes ago, Yeti-YMe said:

Thanks. I'm no mechanic, I'm afraid, and a local garage (who are Audi, Skoda & VW approved repair guys), have said that they'll follow the pdf (but of course can't guarantee anything), for £650.00 + sealant. Does that sound ok? 

 

Well. Probably took me two hours to remove grab handle and sun visor and pull the trim down. Bought some curtain wire to use to poke down and clear out the drain hole. A mechanic would have and easier time doing it all inside when applying the sealant, probably took me 4 or 5 hours of pottering over three days, as I had to reattach the wind deflector each night, cover with tarp etc, then start again the next day.

 

My concern would be that the leak could be something different...perhaps they could pull down the liner and investigate first to pinpoint the leaky spot?

4 minutes ago, Urrell said:

Mostly marine supply shops.
Google is your friend.

 

I'm there. Now, another one, will 100ml be enough? 

I've got to say a massive thanks to you guys, for all your advice, really do appreciate it. Going to try and have a dust up with Skoda, but not holding my breath. 

None of it was difficult, but it was annoying doing it outside and exposed.

 

Just now, Bobbsy said:

 

Well. Probably took me two hours to remove grab handle and sun visor and pull the trim down. Bought some curtain wire to use to poke down and clear out the drain hole. A mechanic would have and easier time doing it all inside when applying the sealant, probably took me 4 or 5 hours of pottering over three days, as I had to reattach the wind deflector each night, cover with tarp etc, then start again the next day.

 

My concern would be that the leak could be something different...perhaps they could pull down the liner and investigate first to pinpoint the leaky spot?

Skoda have currently got the car, and said it needed a whole new frame. 

 

100mls is plenty! I had a 1ml syringe, probably used 10 mls at most, and that was adding some to the other side as well.

I must say, I find it extremely poor form that a car less than 5 years old is developing such leaks. Love the car but unimpressed with the sunroof quality.

So, looks like I spoke too early and jinxed myself. Lots of rain coming down today and the leak is back. I have to suspect the "hairline crack" scenario now I think.

 

As I was googling for a suitable sealant, I cam across this pdf technical bulletin detailing a "foil tape" repair for VW Golf sunroofs. Has anyone seen something similar for the yeti or other VAG sunroofs?

 

 

 

MC-10128041-9999.pdf