18 hours ago, nodigital said:

Wheel well noise, I'm told is a significant contributor overall so with this in mind I decided to try out the rears first.   Having recently been camping and totally filling the boot space to the roof it showed that noise reduction could be had and would make a difference.

 

Jacked the car up using an 'alternative method'.  The handbook and docs recommend jacking up on the weld jack point which made me uneasy about stability, folding, etc.    The alternative was to jack on the under arm with suitable wood support to distribute.  I then used the cars scissor jack on the jack weld point to act as a safety support rather than an axle stand.    This meant the vehicle height was only minimally increased when raising to get the wheel off.   Someone please point out if this is a bad approach.

So, with the vehicle up the next step was to remove the liner cover.   Its fastened with a variety of screws distributed on the left and right, back and three around the arch.   The flap on the bottom front left of the image is integral to the cover so remove the screws including the one underneath but not the flat head ones.   If the liner doesn't come out easily, check that all the screws around the arch are out - worth brushing off the dirt first to inspect.   Once removed, give it a good clean.

 

One thing I noticed is the amount of freespace from the liner to the bodywork and its flexible construction which gave some options.

 

Here is the rear drivers side showing the back and the tube is the fuel spill drain (I presume?)

 

The metal was brushed then wiped with a rag and technical alcohol to clean the surface.   There's some rustproof coatings on the bottom edge of mine where I didnt put any SilentCoat as it didnt seem to adhere

 

I covered the well with Silent Coat, as much as reasonable possible without addressing every spare space and avoiding where the shock is and obviously the fuel pipe on the drivers side.    We then tried a few things and reasoned that it was worth seeing if the 10mm isolater sheets would fit.   I bought some general brand ones as I planned to put them in the doors:  https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01MDUB6T6  - 12 sheets of 50x30cm

 

The adhesive seemed ok - a stray off-cut stuck itself to my jeans and made a mess trying to remove it but I'm still uneasy on its stickiness to foil.   I figured adhering  as large a piece as possible would be best and its sandwiched between the liner and body so shouldn't go anywhere if it comes loose.

 

Sticking on the isolator, avoiding the screw holes I ended up with:

I didnt go nuts trying to cover every last cm2 due to angles and sizes required.   The liner fits back in place with a little pushing to get the screw holes aligned.  The screws have enough thread to go far enough in to hold it well without strain on the liner, screw or thread.

 

The other thing to note is the gaps in the liner with ridges.  I filled some of the top spaces with spare offcuts:

These are at the same height as the ridges

 

With the liner  in place everything is hidden, except for a section of the isolator:

This is the only bit that worries me as it'll get full weather exposure.   I should have used additional contact adhesive on the isolator for this section to ensure there's no chance of it lifting.  If you use any, check its ok with foam as some adhesives will melt it rather than bond.  I plan to keep an eye on it and take remedial action if it starts to lift away.

 

After completing both sides, took the car out and noticed a significant drop in the rear tyre noise.   Tyre noise now seems to be coming more from the front and driving at 30mph on some bad tarmac now doesn't have the roaring drumming noise from the rear.   Around  four sheets of Silent Coat and four of the isolator each side to do the job it's pretty cost effective.   Significantly effective and took me around a couple of hours (Mainly trying to figure stuff out).

 

Will attempt the fronts next.

 

 

Looks very good! Happy to hear about results! My plan is to do that too, probably starting from inside arches and then outside as last step. 
I don't exactly understand where you jacked car up (probably cause of my English) any chance you could share some image where that was, the jack point you used I mean? 

When working on this project I would really like to put car on Jack stands instead of jack only, since its a long project =).

3 hours ago, JackySi said:

When working on this project I would really like to put car on Jack stands instead of jack only, since its a long project =).

That's a very good plan, no Jack is 100% safe.

I just did the front, but currently I don't feel much  difference. Changing tyres had more effect. Also there is some materials allready used by factory. Probably gravel roads will be more quiet. 

Edited 16 June, 20187 yr by Paikesejanku

10 hours ago, Paikesejanku said:

I just did the front, but currently I don't feel much  difference. Changing tyres had more effect. Also there is some materials allready used by factory. Probably gravel roads will be more quiet. 

How thick vibration sheet you used? Do you have anything else sound deadened like doors, hood?

One comment. I would have gone a bit more further and added material to more than half of the wheel arch. Right now you have covered about 1/4 of the wheel arch and it is not very effective in terms of vibration deadening. Covering 65% or so would give the best result. But if you didnt hear any difference now, then you might not hear it after you have added more materials. Every person hears things differently. 

 

What tyres you have and for second layer you used Silent Coat 4mm Isolator?

1 hour ago, alf.onso said:

How thick vibration sheet you used? Do you have anything else sound deadened like doors, hood?

One comment. I would have gone a bit more further and added material to more than half of the wheel arch. Right now you have covered about 1/4 of the wheel arch and it is not very effective in terms of vibration deadening. Covering 65% or so would give the best result. But if you didnt hear any difference now, then you might not hear it after you have added more materials. Every person hears things differently. 

 

What tyres you have and for second layer you used Silent Coat 4mm Isolator?

I used 4mm + 4mm. I had doors and sidepanels done. I covered only sides that are connected to saloon and it's 1/2 of arch cause there is'nt metal in front of wheel arch. It is covered with plastic. I thougt that engine sides does not add any value. I have 5,5 vibration sheets left from 14, so I can cover the other half if I find the time.

I have Goodyear Efficient Grip Performance 215/55 R17 94V

Light vibration from road still present.

Edited 17 June, 20187 yr by Paikesejanku

15 minutes ago, Paikesejanku said:

I used 4mm + 4mm. I had doors and sidepanels done. I covered only sides that are connected to saloon. I thougt that engine sides does not add any value. I have 5,5 vibration sheets left from 14, so I can cover the other half if I find the time.

I have Goodyear Efficient Grip Performance 215/55 R17 94V

Light vibration from road still present.

If vibration from the road is an issue, then probably most help you would get from doing the front floor. Outside wheel arches will give you benefit in terms of noise but not so much in terms of vibration that you feel when sitting on drivers seat. 

 

Covering entire front wheel arch is not needed. Cover only 2/3.

 

Edited 17 June, 20187 yr by alf.onso

Probably will use the material left, on the floor.

1 hour ago, Paikesejanku said:

Probably will use the material left, on the floor.

If I remember correctly, then you need about 16 or 18 sheets on Silent Coat Extra to do both front floors. So for driver side you need 8-9 sheets. 

I would also cover floor with 4mm isolator as it helps a great deal. 

Edited 17 June, 20187 yr by alf.onso

the armrest now is quiet

 

 

Edited 21 June, 20205 yr by MartiniB

17 minutes ago, MartiniB said:

the elbow support now is quiet

 

 

No more creaking noise when you put your hand on the armrest?!?!?!?

^^^ @alf.onso

yes, it was a problem in hot weather.
sounds like fixed, but test drive isn't done yet
  

2 hours ago, MartiniB said:

^^^ @alf.onso

yes, it was a problem in hot weather.
sounds like fixed, but test drive isn't done yet
  

Wow, gotta try this out!

I always thought this creaking sound comes from hinges but it actually makes sense. 

 

Superb has sooooo many odd plastic sounds. I must next find some instructions how to remove instruments cluster and lower part of dashboard. 

 

Skoda should change their slogan from "Skoda - Simply clever" to "Skoda - Simply DIY".

Edited 17 June, 20187 yr by alf.onso

@MartiniB, you are a genius!

Tried this out today and it works! No more cheap plastic creaks when I put my arm where it belongs (on an armrest). 

Armrest now feels more sturdy, and if you can say something like that about an armrest, it feels more expencive when you use it. Before, cheap plastic creaks ruined it all.

 

I had a bit different approatch than MartiniB and instead of using Tesa textile tape, I used 7mm Silent Coat Sound Absorber that I use for all parts where plastic noises are a problem. It puts a slight pressure to plastic parts and that helps avoiding noises too. And I did only the bottom part of the armrest as after I had removed it, I could not get any sound from the rest of the armrest. 

 

I forgot the scissors upstairs so the outcome was not as aestetic as I would wish ... but the armrest is silent so

 

I really don't understand why Skoda has not done anything about it themselves. It would cost them like 2 cent's .... But then again 150 900 cars would cost more 301 800 cent's that's like over 3000 euros and probably VW bosses would sack entire Skoda upper management for such spending spree. 

 

As we already went to the lovely field of plastic parts sounds, here is another thing I did few weeks ago.

Small part of the trim under the instrument cluster made creaky noises on bad roads (the only ones we got around here) so I decided to do something about it.

 

Recipe for small creaky Skoda plastic trim

Incredients: 

 - One small plastic trim

 - Small strip of 7mm Silent Coat Sound Absorber

Then put those two together and no creacky plastic sound anymore.

 

 

 

On 6/17/2018 at 11:56, alf.onso said:

If vibration from the road is an issue, then probably most help you would get from doing the front floor. Outside wheel arches will give you benefit in terms of noise but not so much in terms of vibration that you feel when sitting on drivers seat. 

 

Covering entire front wheel arch is not needed. Cover only 2/3.

 

Water noise from puddles is reduced.

Guys, I just wanted to say thank you for trialing this stuff out on our behalf!!

 

I plan on having a go soon enough, so be prepared for some emergency remediation advice for when I **** it up!

 

thanks

Slightly off topic but I have been going mad with door seals noise when driving on uneven places or when cars body is slightly bent due to different road levels. Have been treating and cleaning those seals with everything mankind has came up and some that they haven't yet. Today I made a breakthough! Seems like that door seals had nothing to do with this sound but this little hairy (felt like looking) "seal" at the top of the door. 

Gave it a good cleaning with CarPro Eraser to get rid of all oils and silicones and other residues and conditioned it with Sonax rubber seals conditioner. And the noise is GONE!!!!! 

 

I was so happy that I even took a picture of that small lil bugger causing all the trouble so that everyone would understand even without needing to read my unproper English mombling. 

 

53 minutes ago, alf.onso said:

Slightly off topic but I have been going mad with door seals noise when driving on uneven places or when cars body is slightly bent due to different road levels. Have been treating and cleaning those seals with everything mankind has came up and some that they haven't yet. Today I made a breakthough! Seems like that door seals had nothing to do with this sound but this little hairy (felt like looking) "seal" at the top of the door. 

Gave it a good cleaning with CarPro Eraser to get rid of all oils and silicones and other residues and conditioned it with Sonax rubber seals conditioner. And the noise is GONE!!!!! 

 

I was so happy that I even took a picture of that small lil bugger causing all the trouble so that everyone would understand even without needing to read my unproper English mombling. 

 

 

I have same issues ^^. Actually I did exactly same as you just wrote but the issue was back after few car washes. So every time I clean car, the noise is back.
But good catch! These seals are little annoying yes ^^

Edited 25 June, 20187 yr by JackySi

Yup, @JackySi, I have no misconception of those sounds not returning. Regular conditioning this lil bugger will be a routine but I'm happy to take this routine as long as there is no sound from seals

I see. Yeah the Sonax Rubber seal treatment is awesome for these noises. It also makes rubber last much longer (tested on our old Renault back in 2002, did door seals but not trunk, door seals were like new after 10 years, trunk was messed up)

So, another trip into experimentation land, this time adding isolation to the boot floor covering.   First thing to note was the current height of the floor level.  Note the distance to the securing loop:

 

The boot floor is already patch work SilentCoated and with spare in place:

As you know, the underside of the boot floor cover looks like this:

I applied seven pieces of 10mm isolator (500x300mm per sheet), inclding all the offcuts it uses every last scrap.  So, based on the cost, isolation of the boot floor comes in at 12GBP based on the pack price of 12 sheets and havng five left for the doors, etc

Note I left space for the existing bits stuck to the bottom and the elastic cord.  Its also cut across so it folds up when lifted from within the boot

Applied back into the vehicle its raised the level but only by 10mm.  Here's the result with the Skoda boot liner in place.  Note that the raised lip is up to the retaining loop.  There is a notional gap around the floor (Sorry, didnt take the pic) and there's the gap at the rear where the boot lip part is indented.   Nothing I think of consequence.

In terms of affect, the boot area is totally silent.  In the grand schemes were back into the 20% area again but with the wheel arches and boot floor now complete, that's the rear end as silent as I can get without dismantling the interior to access to the arches, etc which I dont think would add much considering I'm not hearing anything from the back, even when in the back seats.

 

Still got doors, front and some floor experimenting to try out next.

 

 

 

 

 

@nodigital, accessing rear wheel arches is not actually complicated and if you get to this point, I can guide you.

Doing doors and B-pillar should be the next step. There is a lot of noise coming from those two. 

 

Can I ask what tyres you have? Am I correct that they are rather quiet ones (no Pirelli or Continental)?

On 7/1/2018 at 07:42, alf.onso said:

@nodigital, accessing rear wheel arches is not actually complicated and if you get to this point, I can guide you.

Doing doors and B-pillar should be the next step. There is a lot of noise coming from those two. 

 

Can I ask what tyres you have? Am I correct that they are rather quiet ones (no Pirelli or Continental)?

 

Doors are next on the list starting with the rears first.

 

Tyres are stock P7's on 19 rims which, not having heard any others, are probably the source of the rumble noise I'm trying to eliminate.  Elimination of vibration and rumble through the floorpan on rough tarmac is my end goal but working my way from back to front first :-)

 

Also noticed that since silencing the wheel wells and silent coating the boot the frequency response of the sub has changed.  At 0 setting its now overly present and more booming, I presume from the solidifying of the surfaces from which it resonates.  Had to back it down -2 to balance off.

 

Will work on the doors affect the overall Canton dsp adjusted frequency range?  (Presuming the Canton audio has DSP profiles applied to the channels to give a more seamless integration of the multi speakers to make up for their flaccid uncorrected response in non deadened doors?)   Any experience of the tonal change to the audio after deadening the doors?    Did you apply SilentCoat only or did you add an isolation layer on top and was that behind the speakers also?

 

Thanks

8 hours ago, nodigital said:

 

Doors are next on the list starting with the rears first.

 

Tyres are stock P7's on 19 rims which, not having heard any others, are probably the source of the rumble noise I'm trying to eliminate.  Elimination of vibration and rumble through the floorpan on rough tarmac is my end goal but working my way from back to front first :-)

 

Also noticed that since silencing the wheel wells and silent coating the boot the frequency response of the sub has changed.  At 0 setting its now overly present and more booming, I presume from the solidifying of the surfaces from which it resonates.  Had to back it down -2 to balance off.

 

Will work on the doors affect the overall Canton dsp adjusted frequency range?  (Presuming the Canton audio has DSP profiles applied to the channels to give a more seamless integration of the multi speakers to make up for their flaccid uncorrected response in non deadened doors?)   Any experience of the tonal change to the audio after deadening the doors?    Did you apply SilentCoat only or did you add an isolation layer on top and was that behind the speakers also?

 

Thanks

 

P7? Ohh you poor guy ..... Pirelli creates a lot of vibration on uneven tarmac and with that it creates lots of noise. It means that you must cover as much as you can with vibration sheets, especially front floor. I myself covered even shock absorbers "bowls" with two layers of STP (total 4,6mm) and it made a small imporovement in vibrations.

 

I would not put too much trust into Canton DPS. I would not say it is so well balanced and sound deadening doors will make music quality much better. The sound becomes more percise, base clearer and overall music quality becomes more realistic (that should be the ultimate goal of an audiophile). 

 

With doors you cover outside door panel as much as you can with 2mm or 1,8mm. Don't add anything else on the outside layer as your 10mm sound isolator is too thick and I am not overly confident in it's long term quality. It probably works well everywhere else but I would not risk it damaging/stucking window lifting mechanisms. STP and Silent Coat have materials to use on top of vibration mat inside doors and those I would trust. 

Next you add another layer of vibration mat to the door inside metal panel by covering as much as you can (even the platic covers and all holes). Around speakers you can use 4mm of vibration mats or double layer of 2mm. 

I myself added some 2mm vibration mats also on the door interior (plastic) panels and especially around it's medium speaker and around bass speaker grille. It helps to eliminate interior panel vibration with higher music volumes and helps to improve medium frequenzy sound quality (as medium feq. speaker is connected to the door panel).

After that, cover door interior panel with 15mm sound absorber. Do not use your 10mm isolator there.

1 hour ago, alf.onso said:

Tyres are stock P7's on 19 rims

 

P7-s are extremely noisy (specially on the 19" rims). I swapped mine for a quieter/softer tyre and the difference was night and day - there is noticeably less noise and vibration. I personally would go for a tyre change and then see where the problems remain and take care of those.