2016 280 was due for annual service, so since it was just coming up to 40k miles and I had no record of DSG or Haldex service I decided to get everything completed on the car in one go.

 

• Engine oil, filters, spark plugs
• DSG oil and filter
• Haldex oil, pump seal, and gauze clean
• Brake fluid - I went for Motul RBF600 because I might try the car out on a trackday over winter if the weather's looking too terrible to take my MX5. 

Also had Eibach pro-kit lowering springs fitted, I think it's a 35mm drop. 

Initial thoughts from the lowering springs are:
 

• I need some spacers, 15mm look to be the consensus from other members
• I've gone back to Comfort on the DCC from Normal. Comfort had previously started to feel wallowy so I went up to Normal which felt much more supple than I expected. On the way home from having the springs fitted it did feel a slight amount harsher, dropping down to Comfort mode made it feel about what Normal felt before. I'll see how this progresses as the springs need to "settle" and that might affect the ride too.

7 hours ago, NurseHolliday said:

2016 280 was due for annual service, so since it was just coming up to 40k miles and I had no record of DSG or Haldex service

Haldex oil change is due every 3 years…  

7 hours ago, NurseHolliday said:

• Also had Eibach pro-kit lowering springs fitted, I think it's a 35mm drop. 

Initial thoughts from the lowering springs are:

• I need some spacers, 15mm look to be the consensus from other members
• I've gone back to Comfort on the DCC from Normal. Comfort had previously started to feel wallowy so I went up to Normal which felt much more supple than I expected. On the way home from having the springs fitted it did feel a slight amount harsher, dropping down to Comfort mode made it feel about what Normal felt before. I'll see how this progresses as the springs need to "settle" and that might affect the ride too.

 

If u have DCC, the drop will only b 20-25mm.

35mm drop is for standard non-DCC cars.

 

DCC is already 10-15mm lower than standard non-DCC, hence less drop with the lowering springs.

 

Now that ur lowered - I would recommend u get a DCC recalibration done - will make the car even better, and stop crashing/bottoming out altogether.

I did it 6 months after my car was lowered on Eibach Pro-kit springs and it made a big difference.

 

Regarding spacers, yup 15mm hub-centrics r a good size to have.

10 hours ago, Colin170CR said:

Always good to see symmetrical pipes. Are you with or without exhaust Flaps? 

Is the 280 badged as a VRS in Aus? 

It’s 2017 model with the exhaust flaps. No, I just put the vRS badge on from Kopacek for the extra 20 horsepower! I also recently did a chrome delete on it with wrap (by a professional) and some small plasti dip on the badges and chrome grille strips.

33 minutes ago, Frankenfurter said:

It’s 2017 model with the exhaust flaps. No, I just put the vRS badge on from Kopacek for the extra 20 horsepower! I also recently did a chrome delete on it with wrap (by a professional) and some small plasti dip on the badges and chrome grille strips.

 

Looks awesome mate! Which wheels are those if you don't mind me asking?

51 minutes ago, CRB123 said:

 

Looks awesome mate! Which wheels are those if you don't mind me asking?

They’re RS6 replicas. I actually saw someone else on here with them and fell in love. They’re like AUD 1,000 for a set and have held up incredibly well over some savage pot holes this year. Seem to be quite strong. Specs are 20x8.5 et35 with 245/35/20 tyres.

 

Ride is still very comfy too. Stock 19s are a 40 profile and these are a 35 so not a big change. 

4 hours ago, Frankenfurter said:

They’re RS6 replicas. I actually saw someone else on here with them and fell in love. They’re like AUD 1,000 for a set and have held up incredibly well over some savage pot holes this year. Seem to be quite strong. Specs are 20x8.5 et35 with 245/35/20 tyres.

 

Ride is still very comfy too. Stock 19s are a 40 profile and these are a 35 so not a big change. 

You running stock/OEM springs or lowered?  If lowered (do you also have DCC?) any scraping issues with those rims/offset/tyres?

29 minutes ago, Donweather said:

You running stock/OEM springs or lowered?  If lowered (do you also have DCC?) any scraping issues with those rims/offset/tyres?

I'm still stock ride height with DCC. I know that others with ET35 and 245/35/20 are running Eibachs with DCC and without rubbing. 

I'm actually considering a set of Eibachs with some 6.5mm Audi spring spacers at the back and 5mm (yet to be found) up front to split the difference on the drop in ride height. 

DTE Pedal Box, fitted, configured and well happy! Difference is amazing as is the the control option available, lucky second hand purchase! 👍

Waiting on delivery of a Race Chips RS tuning chip from fleabay, bit of a bargain so hoping for the same result! 🤞

 

A throttle controller is probably the best simplest upgrade on the Superb.  It's a 2nd hand bargain.

Having got the car a few months ago and getting mildly irritated with a "broken glove box light" I always knew it was something to do with this loose wire... (smaller black coated one on the bottom left)

 

But it never occurred to me the wire plugs into the back of what I assumed was just a dampener to slow the glove box opening.

 

At least that's the last internal light replaced with a LED now as well~

Edited 24 November, 20223 yr by Matt-mutt

The red wire through that hole with no grommet in the first picture would worry me.

25 minutes ago, Kenny R said:

The red wire through that hole with no grommet in the first picture would worry me.

Yeah tired night shift brain did pick it up I have to say, but lacked the will to investigate. Looking at it now I think that's the previous owners dashcam hardwire (kind enough to leave it in when I got the car... for some reason) kit set up 

24 minutes ago, Matt-mutt said:

Yeah tired night shift brain did pick it up I have to say, but lacked the will to investigate. Looking at it now I think that's the previous owners dashcam hardwire (kind enough to leave it in when I got the car... for some reason) kit set up 

Out of interest what LED bulb did you use as a replacement? 

So today I drove of a small branch, whacked the underside of the car, immediately dashboard light - Skoda oil sensor workshop!

 

Took it to my local mechanic and sure enough the branch had whacked the connector and ripped out a wire.  They were able to reconnect it but the block, which is part of the wiring loom is damaged.  Light is off for now.

 

Allieexpress to the rescue and a new block connector on the way from China for €5.

 

Moral of the story, don't drive over a small branches!

 

 

 

 

 

10 points to whoever can work out what i am doing here!

Not my prettiest of work, but yes it was successful  

 

Seat electrics is my guess.

Replacing the microswitches for the seat adjustment?

 

If so then I would conclude that a new switch unit is silly money or made of unobtanium.

 

How much?

My suggestion would not explain the wire links and extension wires unless you were adaptin another type of microswitch with different pin out spacings.

45 minutes ago, JR RS said:

Seat electrics is my guess.

 

16 minutes ago, J.R. said:

Replacing the microswitches for the seat adjustment?

 

If so then I would conclude that a new switch unit is silly money or made of unobtanium.

 

How much?

Both good guesses.

 

So I’m the process of making my MY17 superb sportline seats to the highest spec possible.

so that means both front seats will be heated, ventilated, massage, electric and memory.

As many will know, most of these things didn’t come on a 2017 superb, let alone on the sportline seats.

 

fair bit of custom work is going into it, next hurdle to tackle is the ventilated mats and seat cushions.

 

but the above is basically - to get the memory version of the passenger seat controls they want £190 for the controls new, or roughly £100 second hand. 
 

as I had a right side memory seat controls and a left hand non memory. I stripped the parts from the right module, desoldered everything and flipped the circuit board round, refitted everything in the left hand housing. Then found out the placement of the centre switch is not symmetrical so couldn’t be flipped round, hence having to drill holes straight through the circuit board and use link wires. Everything is secure and I will probably go back over the work with a nicer quality wire but for proof of concept it works as intended. And saves me £100-£190!

I actually understood that!

 

It must be time for me to put a stop to this Teetotal nonsense 🤣

winter alloys and tyres on!

 

Edited 25 November, 20223 yr by fraz8888

Finally got around to installing the sportline difusor, now the look is complete.

 

 

 

 

On 24/11/2022 at 10:42, Colin170CR said:

Out of interest what LED bulb did you use as a replacement? 

Nothing too fancy just got a couple of 501 LEDs from halfords, can't really argue £3.19 for a light I'll hardly ever see and a spare for the (many) other 501 bulbs the superb has

Another supporter of the racechip xlr here. Fitted once I managed to psychologically overcome the concept of locking the car with the front door open. Stored in cubbyhole, job’s a good’un.