Check your Haldex pump people...

[mac26]

Indeed, the problem is that the fill bolt is on a vertical serface.

I don’t see any reason as to why the bolts can’t be reused, they’re not stretch bolts and aren’t torqued up highly at all.

However, you should replace the two rubber o-rings on refitting the pump.  The bolts came with the two o-rings in a service kit from TPS.

However, I believe the o-rings are 42mm I/D and 2.5mm thick.

 

The bolts and seals cost £15!!!!!! That’s not including the oil.   So next time I’ll be reusing the existing bolts and getting o-rings elsewhere.  But I wanted the job done properly and time was of the essence.

[Yety]

5 hours ago, Trevor M said:

YETY: I am not sure if you have seen my question to you above, but could you please let me know the details of the parts you used to make your extended harness, as I am about to change my pump, and would like to do the same? So far I have not been able to find the plug / socket combination online. Many thanks.

Trevor M.

 

Yes, I had seen your post, just been looking in my pile of Skoda bits and found some empty packets!?.

 

Plug 1JO 973 702

Socket 1JO 973 802

 

I also bought a tool to remove the contact pins when made up ( to correct any orientation errors!!!) Laser terminal tool 3932

 

I think I got them from Angliapostalparts, but check out those part numbers to make sure. I got them off Ebay a couple of years ago, so a bit hazy now. Widely available via internet.

Good luck.

[kenfowler3966]

The video above showing the oil change did not bother to change the seals

[widdershins]

12 hours ago, SuperbTWM said:

Am I missing something? Surely Skoda cannot be blamed for a poor design of the Haldex coupling, its design and maintenance schedule has nothing to do with Skoda.

 

I disagree, Skoda can be blamed, though perhaps not completely.  When a company the size of VAG goes shopping for something like a Haldex the supplier will bend over backwards, if asked, in order to satisfy their demands given the potential size of sale involved.  Had VAG wanted Gen 4 units instead, or Gen 5 units with easily replaceable screw on external filters fixed to the end similar to the engine oil filter you can bet that's what they'd have got.

 

Skoda may only get what VAG order, but they are part of the group and have input to the design/procurement process for the products VAG order.  If they did not object then they are partly to blame.  If VAG accepted inferior Gen 5 designs and purchased those units they are to blame.

[Steve Humphreys]

Recently had a Haldex fault on my 2013 Yeti at 38K miles. I'd suspected it for a couple of months but it was confirmed with a diagnostic during a service. The pump was intermittently open circuit. 

 

I took it to The Phirm in Blackwater, really good guys! They found the pump gauze and filter completely clagged up. This is the filter that VAG don't replace or even have a part number for.  Pump and filter replaced and it works a treat now, honestly feels like a different beast to drive, not the slightest bit of slip from the wheels when accelerating hard.

 

The car has been serviced from new by Skoda and the Haldex Fluid replaced at the correct intervals. I firmly believe the failure is due to the pump gauze and filter not being cleaned or replaced during the service.

 

If you're in the Hants/Berks/surrey border area and are looking for a good VAG specialist then get in touch with The Phirm www.thephirm.co.uk

[Trevor M]

YETY: Many thanks for the information, much appreciated. I shall now try to obtain these and duplicate your method. Thanks again.

 

Kind regards, Trevor M.

[mac26]

12 hours ago, kenfowler3966 said:

The video above showing the oil change did not bother to change the seals

 

 

Yes, each to their own but I wanted to avoid any complications so I replaced them.

There are lots of other videos on YouTube that advocate changing them and others that don't.

I decided to play it safe. 

[Andy Sayle]

I changed the haldex pump and filter on my 2012 4x4 late last year.  It had defaulted to 2 wheel drive, and was throwing the pump intermittent open circuit error.

 

Getting the "non existent" filter out was a pain, as the pump was conpletely dead.  I ended up having to pry it out.  The pump came out easy, but the wiring to it was a nightmare to unclip.  There's next to no access as it is routed over the top of the haldex unit, between the bodywork.  I should have taken the time to fit a wiring extension whilst I was doing it, that's one for next time.

 

The pump strainer was clogged solid, and the filter was the same.  It's been serviced to Skoda specs since day 1.

 

4wd is now working, and makes a massive difference to driving in the wet, especially Inn the cold.

 

I have one minor issue left over though, and that is there is a slight shunt from the drivers, when the haldex disengages.  I notice it most when pulling away from a standstill, at part throttle.  After changing to second gear, there is a couple of seconds, before there is a slight shunt.  It never happened before (had the car from new).  I'm wondering If there is an airlock in the haldex system, or maybe too much/little fluid?  

 

Anyway, keep on top of the filter and fluid changes, it will save the expensive pump failing....

[GordonY]

Some images of Haldex V oil and pump sevice on a vw forum which I found useful

https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?8908177-MK7-Haldex-Fluid-Change-DIY&s=d7ac623d76254f1289e3a26e19ad96c8

 

[Trevor M]

Andy Sayle: You are probably correct about the air lock. I read somewhere that it is necessary to run the pump for a couple minutes using eg. VCDS, after changing the oil and filter. I would think though that it would eventually clear of its own accord.

[Rustynuts]

Well, this gets more interesting.

The local Volkswagen Audi Seat Skoda TECH workshop have had the Yeti in for best part of a day now and can't see any fault with it. The old "No diagnostics fault code, the lads had it out for a drive and says nothings wrong!" story. Am I surprised? Not really. I should've known better than to believe a bunch of ex VW mechanics would know what they were looking at when a fault beyond their comprehension appears on the doorstep. Becauese there's no faults showing it simply means there's nothing amiss.

 

So armed with this information I made a phone call when I got in from work this afternoon and I now have a much better idea of what the fault might be. I'm apparently incorrect when I say the motor isn't subject to diagnostics, and apparently it is if it fails completely.  It's possible that the pump motor is spinning but is not actually turning the pump itself, or the pump head is buggered which wouldn't throw a fault code though.

 

Then it could be the clutch pack which is worn out or the basket which holds it is broken, both of which would cause this issue.

 

Correct diagnostics for these faults is to energise the pump with 12v DC (+ve onto the yellow wire, ground to the other one) with the wheel jacked up on one side and see if you can turn the wheel. If you can, then either the pump isn't pumping or the clutch pack is shot (further diagnostics follow from there as to why).

 

Another probable (and my particular favourite) is the transfer box at the front of the car. Note this fault has nothing to do with a fully functional Haldex unit but exhibits the same symptoms. The fault is that the gear which drives the prop shaft inside the transfer box is pressed onto the end of the drive shaft, and in extreme circumstances comes loose and spins on the end of said shaft with no actual drive to the rear wheels. So when the front wheels spin the Haldex unit engages and puts zero drive to the rear wheels as there's no drive for it to transmit. All the drive gets lost in the transfer box at the other end of the propshaft.

 

I'm currently awaiting a phone call from the workshop to update me as to where they're at with it. I'm not holding myn breath.....

 

[z1ppy]

Got a service tomorrow, and don't know whether to ask* for this to be checked on mine (27K)...

 

* I did discuss it, and they left it up to me.

[z1ppy]

Well I took the plunge and had it done, my thinking being a new pump is £300 (top of the head figure from the mechanic) + the cost of a haldex service (mainly the oil) + an hour of mechanic time would be a lot more than a haldex service and 1 hours mechanic's time (what they charged me). 

I also asked for photograph's to see if it was worthwhile, but they printed these out for me on a crap inkjet, so they aren't worth uploading those scans here. I'm going back to see if my alternator is overcharging, so will ask if I can get a copy of the originals sent to me.

Going by the pictures, mine had no metal fragments but was covered in a thick sludge, and now seemingly the 4x4 kicks in a lot smoother than before, not the shove it had been.

So I'm counting that as a win, and will be getting my tame mechanic to do it for me in the future, as I used a local VW specialist this time. I'm definitely not waiting for the 40K interval, as per the service book, before doing it again

[Rustynuts]

Well, the plot thickens on my saga.

The pump is okay, even after removal and cleaning of the gauze filter it still doesn't mactivate the Haldex. Briefly fitting a new pump validated that the original was okay, and bench testing the old pump proved it was okay. So, further investigation with back to back logs of the Yeti vs the Tiguan (exactly the same Haldex system, part numbers, software etc.) proved that the controller is not applying increased voltage to the pump on the Yeti while it does on the Tiguan. Both vehicles subjected to a quick launch on loose gravel showed a voltage spike of 8.5v DC on the Tiguan and a stable 3v DC on the Yeti. No voltage increase, no pump speed increase, no Haldex activation.

 

So, having spoken to a very nice lad at Haldex Repairs it would appear as though there's no problem with the Haldex unit per se, but something else in the cars electronics is not telling the Haldex Controller when there's wheel slip at the front. I can see this one is going to fool many people.

[muddyboots]

On 23/03/2019 at 18:59, Rustynuts said:

Well, the plot thickens on my saga.

The pump is okay, even after removal and cleaning of the gauze filter it still doesn't mactivate the Haldex. Briefly fitting a new pump validated that the original was okay, and bench testing the old pump proved it was okay. So, further investigation with back to back logs of the Yeti vs the Tiguan (exactly the same Haldex system, part numbers, software etc.) proved that the controller is not applying increased voltage to the pump on the Yeti while it does on the Tiguan. Both vehicles subjected to a quick launch on loose gravel showed a voltage spike of 8.5v DC on the Tiguan and a stable 3v DC on the Yeti. No voltage increase, no pump speed increase, no Haldex activation.

 

So, having spoken to a very nice lad at Haldex Repairs it would appear as though there's no problem with the Haldex unit per se, but something else in the cars electronics is not telling the Haldex Controller when there's wheel slip at the front. I can see this one is going to fool many people.

Interested in how you're measuring the voltage increase - is this using VCDS ?

[Rustynuts]

Okay, all fixed. How it all got mixed up and not working I don't know, it was like this when I bought it.

The fix was (using VCDS of course)

Start the engine.

1. Open Controller 22 - AWD
2. Open Basic Settings - 04
3. In Basic Settings use the drop down selection box to select "MAS02928 - Pump Motor"
4. Hit "Go" and let it run. Took a minute or so, during which time I could hear the Haldex pump cycling up and down and relearning its function.

After a while the Pump Basic Setting function "Finished Correctly", and everything started to work properly.


Massive thanks to my new best friend Matt at www.haldexrepairs.co.uk for taking the time to listen and understand what was going on, and then coming up with the solution.  

 

[Rustynuts]

2 minutes ago, muddyboots said:

Interested in how you're measuring the voltage increase - is this using VCDS ?

 

Yep. VCDS.

[Bexhillian]

Pleased it is all sorted.

Thank you for all the details that you have posted.

I am having my first Haldex service in a month and forewarned is certainly forearmed.

 

Question though.....My Yeti is coming up to 3 years old, 22k miles and never been on anything slippery to test it out.  One service chap says service it, another service chap at the same dealer suggested it was really up to me with these miles.  I do have the extended 5 year warranty. I admit to being a bit green and not sure how I would tell if it had actually been serviced properly (any sludge cleaned out and the fluids properly changed) anyway. I've previously asked to watch the servicing take place but that was ruled out for insurance reasons.

  

[kenfowler3966]

It operates more often than you think. EG turning out of a junction briskly I feel an extra shove from the back as all 4 wheels drive

[Rustynuts]

I've just done the Tiguan Haldex this weekend. It's done 36k miles since new and I'll upload pics later of the pump. The oil which came out was black and full of lumps, sort of like milk which is a week out of date and been out of the fridge (but black coloured) . I'd certainly have it changed and pull the pump. It takes he half an hour on my back on the drive, so should be dead easy on a ramp.

[Rustynuts]

 

 

 

[z1ppy]

Quote

Question though.....My Yeti is coming up to 3 years old, 22k miles and never been on anything slippery to test it out.  One service chap says service it, another service chap at the same dealer suggested it was really up to me with these miles.  I do have the extended 5 year warranty. I admit to being a bit green and not sure how I would tell if it had actually been serviced properly (any sludge cleaned out and the fluids properly changed) anyway. I've previously asked to watch the servicing take place but that was ruled out for insurance reasons.

As per my post, I asked the garage for photographs of my pump, though it was as much to see the condition of the unit, than as proof but still great as proof... As to whether it worth it on your car, I dunno mine is 4 years old with 27K miles, and I want to keep it long term.. BUT..

Quote

It operates more often than you think. EG turning out of a junction briskly I feel an extra shove from the back as all 4 wheels drive

I used to feel the extra shove, pre the service, now I know the 4 wheel drive is working as per the dash warning but the feel is a lot more subtle no obvious shove.

[ejstubbs]

22 minutes ago, z1ppy said:

now I know the 4 wheel drive is working as per the dash warning but the feel is a lot more subtle no obvious shove.

 

What dash warning?  There is no indication on the dash that the Haldex is working.

 

If you're seeing the TCS warning light:  then that can easily mean that your Haldex isn't working.  It means that the rest of the systems on the car are having to intervene to mitigate a loss of traction.  It was exactly that symptom that first alerted me to the failure of my Haldex: unusually frequent, obvious and unexpected front wheel spin along with the TCS light flashing away.  As soon as the Haldex was working again, TCS hardly ever had to intervene.  (A sharpish uphill left turn away from a set of lights was a good test, especially if the road was at all damp.)

[Andy Sayle]

On 25/03/2019 at 12:57, Rustynuts said:

Okay, all fixed. How it all got mixed up and not working I don't know, it was like this when I bought it.

The fix was (using VCDS of course)

Start the engine.

1. Open Controller 22 - AWD
2. Open Basic Settings - 04
3. In Basic Settings use the drop down selection box to select "MAS02928 - Pump Motor"
4. Hit "Go" and let it run. Took a minute or so, during which time I could hear the Haldex pump cycling up and down and relearning its function.

After a while the Pump Basic Setting function "Finished Correctly", and everything started to work properly.


Massive thanks to my new best friend Matt at www.haldexrepairs.co.uk for taking the time to listen and understand what was going on, and then coming up with the solution.  

 

What version of VCDS are you running?   I haven't got that option in the drop down list.  I'm wondering if my label file is not current.

 

In the 'group' box in the basic settings, what is the number when you select the pump motor from the drop down list?

 

Cheers

Andy

[Rustynuts]

If your version of VCDS doesn't have the required drop down options then maybe update your VCDS?