Yes, that covers all the usual parts that would be expected to be needed to fix a "snapped off fuel rail screw/bolt head", good to see that they saw fit to replace the 5 inlet manifold securing screws/bolts, I had not thought of needing to replace them, so I'll buy them in to add to kit of parts covering "removing the inlet manifold for fuel rail bolt checking/replacing"

Sorry to bring up this thread, but it happened to me as well on my Skoda Kodiaq 1.4TSI.

I'm very worried about my family now because I don't know if I can trust about this car anymore. I had my little daughter of 2 years on the car with me when it happened.

I would like to know if anyone has the issue again after the fix.

Thanks

all manufacturers have been using weaker materials lately, except where they consider it critical. yesterday I changed the coolant and the outer belt on my 1.5 tsi evo 150 hp and I also had a tensioner roller, I didn't think to change the entire tensioner because it's good. I'll do that at 120,000+ km, now it has 85,000 km. I didn't think to change it now either but I got an NSR Japan tensioner roller for 8€.

I tried to unscrew the M10 screw that holds the roller to the tensioner but there's no way, I thought it was a left-hand thread so I even tightened it a few degrees.

I took the entire tensioner off in a vice. but there's no way. I guess they put a lot of strong glue on it and it won't go and won't go. In the end I only replaced the belt, even though it wasn't needed, I saw that the old one was original without a single crack, not a single thread sticking out and it was thicker than the Contitech belt Made in Germany that I bought at an aftermarket parts store.

I struggled a bit with the coolant because I don't have a vacuum device, VCDS asked me for a token, which I don't have, so I manually poured in distilled water first to flush the system a bit, but it didn't work, my temperature was almost in the red for a minute (121°C) until I found specific instructions somewhere on the internet: start it, let it idle until the fan started. turn it off, after turning it off the electric intercooler pump turns on by itself and runs for 5 minutes and turns off. I repeated the procedure once more and then went for a test drive. It was ok. then I drained the water and poured in Glacelf Plus Evo coolant at a ratio of approximately -28°C, because I don't like to put -38°C coolant on the old pump, a mechanical water pump can leak quickly. old coolant (factory from 2019 was at -23°C)

repeated the bleed system and it was ok. my front right shock absorber is leaking a little but very little, barely noticeable, I won't change them again. strange after 5 years. it was on the yeti for 8 years and all 4 are completely dry.

the quality of everything has gone down.

Edited 22 April, 20251 yr by imart143

3 hours ago, imart143 said:

my front right shock absorber is leaking a little but very little, barely noticeable

The front dampers on my wife's 2015 Fabia mark 3 had to be replaced at 6 years old to pass an MoT (statutory annual inspection) the replacement dampers fitted by the local VWŠkoda Dealership (at great cost of part(s) and fitting) were "misting" at the next (early) MoT only 11 months later, apparently a known thing with VW dampers, luckily it wasn't a fail this time but an advisory a year later.

Don't fall for the out-of-date believe that German car engineering is good quality that went away about the turn of the century. A couple of 20+ year old Toyotas cars I knew were still on factory fitted suspension, I've always found Japanese engineering quality to be higher but even this has dropped, but some of them seem to have been infected with American corporate practices and quality for quite a time now.

Edited 22 April, 20251 yr by nta16

6 hours ago, Cagnulein said:

Sorry to bring up this thread, but it happened to me as well on my Skoda Kodiaq 1.4TSI.

I'm very worried about my family now because I don't know if I can trust about this car anymore. I had my little daughter of 2 years on the car with me when it happened.

I would like to know if anyone has the issue again after the fix.

Thanks

Sorry to hear that, what is the age or even build date of the engine in your car?

As this fault was said to be down to incorrectly set torquing tools in the Skoda engine plant, after a failure and repair, this should never happen again.

6 minutes ago, rum4mo said:

Sorry to hear that, what is the age or even build date of the engine in your car?

As this fault was said to be down to incorrectly set torquing tools in the Skoda engine plant, after a failure and repair, this should never happen again.

I bought it 40 days ago :(
The engine is from 2017.

I think that that engine's build date would fall into the period where this shocking build error occurred, I'm sure that there is an actual date on the paper label on the top cover for the drive belt, ie at the top RHS of the engine.

Skoda seemed to acknowledge that this occurred in some markets with better consumer protection and took appropriate action, ie check all stocks of new and held used cars covering a certain period in time, and repair as or if necessary, probably even contacted first owners, not good enough for us though, VW Group had chatted to DVSA and I'd think that as DVSA claim (well when I asked them about this as a worried owner of a car with one of these engines they did), that none of this incident or possible incident, triggered any of their flags for forcing a recall or request to attend a workshop for correction, VW Group squeaked out of this need to dig into their war chests - nothing to worry about seems to be their position in UK marketplace.

Edited 22 April, 20251 yr by rum4mo
Edited to add "probably even contacted first owner"

You're being too polite with VWŠkoda UK at least, they seem to be ignoring this issue and don't care about the current owners of the vehicles, dieselgate showed what is required with these people (companies are run by people) but the UK is a soft touch. Same with ripping-off customers previously with 5 years cambelt replacements in UK.

CamBeltchangechange.pdf

Hello,

I m a french man, sorry for my english !, and i have the same issue with my wife's car !

The model is a fabia MK3 , 05/2017 (purchase new), with 170000km.

this weekend, the problem appear, like many of you, with smell and petrol leak :

I took it apart to access the injection and found the same problems:

1 broken bolt , at the end of the common rail,

1 bolt unscrewed

and 1 broken seal...

It is strange because i have a leon 1.4 tsi 140, year : 2013, and after 11 years and 250000 km, there is no problem with the common rail (no broken or unscrewed bolt !)...

I think it's due to a problem with the tightening of the common rail, done at the factory, right?

1 hour ago, cmoi said:

Hello,

I m a french man, sorry for my english !, and i have the same issue with my wife's car !

The model is a fabia MK3 , 05/2017 (purchase new), with 170000km.

this weekend, the problem appear, like many of you, with smell and petrol leak :

I took it apart to access the injection and found the same problems:

1 broken bolt , at the end of the common rail,

1 bolt unscrewed

and 1 broken seal...

It is strange because i have a leon 1.4 tsi 140, year : 2013, and after 11 years and 250000 km, there is no problem with the common rail (no broken or unscrewed bolt !)...

I think it's due to a problem with the tightening of the common rail, done at the factory, right?

Appears to have been incorrect torque at factory, my MY16 Octavia failed this way last June, but injector rail bolts had loosened, causing the O-ring to fail. Other sufferers of this fault have had bolts snap.

There is a safety recall in the US for this build fault - but UK vehicle safety authorities were not interested!

1 hour ago, Warrior193 said:

Appears to have been incorrect torque at factory, my MY16 Octavia failed this way last June, but injector rail bolts had loosened, causing the O-ring to fail. Other sufferers of this fault have had bolts snap.

There is a safety recall in the US for this build fault - but UK vehicle safety authorities were not interested!

Ohh, I reassure you, in France, it's the same ****...

I find this on my common rail, not sure it is good and perhaps it explain the problem...

the curve part is here where the bolt broke...

Tomorrow, i check on the cylinder head if it is normal.

Edited 22 April, 20251 yr by cmoi

20 minutes ago, cmoi said:

Ohh, I reassure you, in France, it's the same ****...

I find this on my common rail, not sure it is good and perhaps it explain the problem...

the curve part is here where the bolt broke...

Tomorrow, i check on the cylinder head if it is normal.

I agree that flange angle does look odd.

The bending of that metal will have been caused by the bolt(s) slackening off.

I’d think that the cylinder head will be okay.

From memory, the first test/check that VW America request is done on an engine that is within the “problem “ production period but not yet failed, is to attempt to insert a piece of printer paper under each of these metal flanges, if that can’t be done, then “all is good” and only the 4 bolts need replacing and correctly torqued up.

With this one it's not so much a fag paper as a fag packet. What the metal, of the particular flange in the photo, like, can it be trusted if straighten out and part reused with confidence(?).

On 22/04/2025 at 13:10, nta16 said:

The front dampers on my wife's 2015 Fabia mark 3 had to be replaced at 6 years old to pass an MoT (statutory annual inspection) the replacement dampers fitted by the local VWŠkoda Dealership (at great cost of part(s) and fitting) were "misting" at the next (early) MoT only 11 months later, apparently a known thing with VW dampers, luckily it wasn't a fail this time but an advisory a year later.

Don't fall for the out-of-date believe that German car engineering is good quality that went away about the turn of the century. A couple of 20+ year old Toyotas cars I knew were still on factory fitted suspension, I've always found Japanese engineering quality to be higher but even this has dropped, but some of them seem to have been infected with American corporate practices and quality for quite a time now.

i will replace them, think will buy Sachs 318198..

1 hour ago, rum4mo said:

The bending of that metal will have been caused by the bolt(s) slackening off.

I’d think that the cylinder head will be okay.

From memory, the first test/check that VW America request is done on an engine that is within the “problem “ production period but not yet failed, is to attempt to insert a piece of printer paper under each of these metal flanges, if that can’t be done, then “all is good” and only the 4 bolts need replacing and correctly torqued up.

You're probably right. In my picture, the right-hand side is the screw was loosened. So after, it is the bottom screw that took up all the efforts and the injection cups.

This twisted the paw of the common rail until it forces too much on the screw and breaks it.

I'm surprised that the thread in the cylinder head is always good.

1 hour ago, nta16 said:

With this one it's not so much a fag paper as a fag packet. What the metal, of the particular flange in the photo, like, can it be trusted if straighten out and part reused with confidence(?).

I test the common rail this afternoon and try to put the paw straight...

20 minutes ago, imart143 said:

i will replace them, think will buy Sachs 318198..

Sorry I can't remember what make the good garage said they use only that they don't use the one fitted to my wife's Fabia. Other members will know if the Sachs 318198 are any good or not. All the best.

mechanic said those are most confortable. it does matter to me because i have sciatica issues..

harder ones are bilstein, Kayaba..

Ok, this bended common rail isn t normal!lol

I persist in saying that the rail was like this in origin, all twisted.

It is impossible to that the common rail be deform himself, alone because it took me a clamping vice and a clamp to straighten the rail...

The only VW Group technical bulletin that I've read online, was published by VW America which covers all of the VW Group products sold in USA and Canada - does not include any recovery action for distorted HP fuel rails on this family of engine, just REPLACE.

I'd still think that it is the repeated hammering action of the fuel injector "firing" after a bolt head has sheared off due to that bolt slackening off due to not been torqued correctly.

I'd hate to think that over a certain period in time, some of these HP fuel rails were manufactured "incorrectly" - and that is the root cause of all these issues, but never say never I suppose.

Well done on straightening it.

Who knows the real causse(?). If you have had the car from brand new and doner all the work on it yourself there would be more certainty but if you got the car used and/or have it worked on by others the variables go up. If it took a lot of effort to get it straight then lets hope that has sorted it for good.

2 hours ago, imart143 said:

mechanic said those are most confortable. it does matter to me because i have sciatica issues..

harder ones are bilstein, Kayaba..

Fair enough. The springs are the real shock absorbers with the dampers controlling them. Also of course the tyres affect the ride and the silly oversized wheels and shorter sidewall tyres that fashion dictates on modern cars.

I got sciatica from the b****y silly wheel bolts instead of studs, I now use two "wheel alignment tools" on each wheel to do a similar job to having (5) wheel studs to make things easier and ease things for my back.

i ordered one from aliexpress 😆

say should i order one more?

2 hours ago, nta16 said:

Well done on straightening it.

Who knows the real causse(?). If you have had the car from brand new and doner all the work on it yourself there would be more certainty but if you got the car used and/or have it worked on by others the variables go up. If it took a lot of effort to get it straight then lets hope that has sorted it for good.

I do.

I bought the car,new and I do EVERYTHING on it (except tyre change), myself.👍

Edited 24 April, 20251 yr by cmoi