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Belt squeaking/some pulley noise/ coolant temperature

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Good morning Gentlemen 

Hope you are fine in this crazy moment of covid19.

I'm experiencing some problems with my 1.9D pickup that maybe are related each other but as i don't know I'm asking you.

So the problems are:

1- engine temperature that stay a little above 90° by the instrumet on dashbord. It takes around 8/9 km to get warm ( everyday commute to work is 2km of town drive, 4km of highway , 3km of town drive). Readal the post about the temp here on the forum and the only thing I'm sure is that my first speed radiator fan doesn't  works( read some where that is supposed to start around 93c and stop at 87 ,is it right). 2nd speed works good and get coolant back at 90°. I still have to try to flush the radiator only and change another time all coolant liquid as i was thinking te coolant i bought and use now was a non pre-mixed one and now i drive with a ,i think, 25% mixture.

2- when it rains some belt , i think the auxiliary belt, start to squeaking and it does for some day after it stop rain. About this i read that someone may have a splash guard under the engine but my pickup doesn't.  Is it right? In the past i ordered a wheel arch plastic cover as i was thinking it might have add some protection for the pulley but it doesn't. I still have to install it. 

I think it just the time to change with a new belt. 

Find this would be helpful 

Any other suggestion? Tips? It could be a good idea to change the water pump at this moment?

3- some pulley had start to make a sound like a meow , a sound that i can describe like a "supercharged mini r53" . It follows the engine speed but i have to clarify where it came from. Maybe the tensioner or the water pump.

Any suggestion on how to clarify?

 

Leave here some link i read

 

 

 

 

Any advice/input  as alway are appreciated! As the pdf manual of the 1.9d to me it seems not so clear....

10 hours ago, Zimo said:

Good morning Gentlemen 

 

1- Readal the post about the temp here on the forum and the only thing I'm sure is that my first speed radiator fan doesn't  works( read some where that is supposed to start around 93c and stop at 87 ,is it right). 2nd speed works good and get coolant back at 90°. I still have to try to flush the radiator only and change another time all coolant liquid as i was thinking te coolant i bought and use now was a non pre-mixed one and now i drive with a ,i think, 25% mixture.

 

2- when it rains some belt , i think the auxiliary belt, start to squeaking and it does for some day after it stop rain. About this i read that someone may have a splash guard under the engine but my pickup doesn't.  Is it right? In the past i ordered a wheel arch plastic cover as i was thinking it might have add some protection for the pulley but it doesn't. I still have to install it. 

I think it just the time to change with a new belt. 

 

 

 

 

You should let your car working only with the 2th speed,i know the cost of a new radiator fan is high but the summer is approaching.

An electrician can check the relay of your fan and determine if it's ''out of use'' or not.

You much check the label on the coolant's bottle,if your coolant is more that 60% then you are "pushing things more than it should be'', flush it and put a ready 50-50 mix and you are OK.

Our belts are exposed too,the moisture can make a belt ''squeaking'', a spray can help reduce the noise but if the belt is worn too much no spray can save him.

The tension of the belt can be checked by you or your mechanic.

Check your notes about the belt and water pump, hoe many Km have on use? start with the coolant and the radiator fan and then proceed to the other matters.

  • Author

@D.FYLAKTOS many thanks for your reply.

Coolant liquod will be replace ASAP. 

For the radiator fan the reley and fuse are under the hood or in cockpit? 

Unfortunately i dont know if belt and water pump where serviced but it is 166.000 km on the clock. 

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I've just added a photo and lots more words to the radiator fan low-speed repair guide linked above. Hopefully it isn't too confusing.

By all means check wires/relays/thermoswitches/fuses first, but I think this failure of the internal resistor in the fan motor is extremely common, so don't be surprised if everything else checks out OK.  

  • Author
12 hours ago, Wino said:

I've just added a photo and lots more words to the radiator fan low-speed repair guide linked above. Hopefully it isn't too confusing.

By all means check wires/relays/thermoswitches/fuses first, but I think this failure of the internal resistor in the fan motor is extremely common, so don't be surprised if everything else checks out OK.  

Ok many thanks

  • Author

Ok so today i have a quick look in the fuse box under the hood and in the picture they are. The red 50 one and the one in its back, according to user's manual, should be for the pre-heating. The other 2 are supposed for the cooling fan. Is it right?

 

Then thanks to my girl , i try to figure out the noise i defined "meow". Seem to be much easy to hear from under the car than over . So it could be the water pump? If i will change the pump , auxiliary belt , is best to change even the tensioner pulley? Any suggestion for a brand of spare parts to buy?

20200503_165822.jpg

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Hi, I just tried to look at how the fan is controlled on a Pick-Up, and found something else that I wasn't expecting.  According to this page the resistor for the low speed operation of the fan (item 17) appears to already be external, unlike the version I talk about repairing in my guide that you linked.  It could still be a problem with this resistor, or the wiring to it, or any of fuse/relay/thermoswitch etc. but my guide will not be as relevant as I expected.

I don't have any wiring info about the Pick Up model, so not sure how the fan is controlled.  Do you have an owner's manual with fuse and relay information?

 

  • Author
3 hours ago, Wino said:

Hi, I just tried to look at how the fan is controlled on a Pick-Up, and found something else that I wasn't expecting.  According to this page the resistor for the low speed operation of the fan (item 17) appears to already be external, unlike the version I talk about repairing in my guide that you linked.  It could still be a problem with this resistor, or the wiring to it, or any of fuse/relay/thermoswitch etc. but my guide will not be as relevant as I expected.

I don't have any wiring info about the Pick Up model, so not sure how the fan is controlled.  Do you have an owner's manual with fuse and relay information?

 

Having a deeper (targeted) look at the cooling system of the engine, it shows that could be the thermo switch that operate the 2 speed fan. Could it be?

It show 2 speed operating values.

Than i have some pdf from the shop manual , if you mp your mail i will send to you

Screenshot_20200503-213132.thumb.png.8b0609c2361f5e50f60006276bef1f7e.png

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Yes, if the car doesn't have air conditioning, it could be as simple as direct control of the fan by the dual thermoswitch. 

 

You can probably test whether everything in the system except the thermoswitch first stage is working OK by unplugging the wiring connector from there, and linking pairs of contacts in the wiring connector with a short length of thick wire.  Keep hands clear of the fan if you try this, and expect a spark when you make the connections, the fan will pull a big current as it starts up. 

If you get both speeds working by linking all combinations like this, the thermoswitch must be the problem, I think.  If you still can't get the low speed working, examine the 'series resistor' and the wiring to it.

I will PM you now.

I have felly with ac,
I've completely removed first speed of the fan for normal car operation.
First speed is only available for the ac.
Car fan always runs on full blast but now the car stays pinned on 90c

  • Author
37 minutes ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

I have felly with ac,
I've completely removed first speed of the fan for normal car operation.
First speed is only available for the ac.
Car fan always runs on full blast but now the car stays pinned on 90c

Hi friend! Nice to hear you and thanks for help . At what temperature the fan is working now on your felly?

Any ideas regarding the other problem in the first post? How hard  is it to change the change belt/tensioner/water pump? Need some special tool? Considering if I will do i ll do on jack stand  

On 04/05/2020 at 08:20, Zimo said:

At what temperature the fan is working now

How hard  is it to change the change belt/tensioner/water pump? Need some special tool? Considering if I will do i ll do on jack stand  

 

Depends on the climate, i have an 1.3 Felicia and as you have already read in my topic the needle on the panel gauge he reaches the 91 'C the fan starts working for 20 seconds.

There are many thermo-switches to choose according to the place that you are driving (heavy traffic, national road, hot sun, snow etc).

 

To change the belt for your mechanic is very easy, first he checks the ''route'' among pulleys and with a specific tool looses the mechanism, apply the new belt and release the locking mechanism.You can see on Youtube videos the procedure and that long tool for lock-unlock work.No need for a jack-stand, can be changed everywhere (on garage, as is outside from your home).

I don't see why the tensioner must be changed.

If the water pump is failed the mechanic raises the car, remove completely the coolant and apply the new pump (has new gasket on), keep in mind to buy the proper spare parts with your VIN handy because there are some variations (model, year, cc, a/c or not).

  • Author
10 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

 

Depends on the climate, i have an 1.3 Felicia and as you have already read in my topic the needle on the panel gauge he reaches the 91 'C the fan starts working for 20 seconds.

There are many thermo-switches to choose according to the place that you are driving (heavy traffic, national road, hot sun, snow etc).

 

To change the belt for your mechanic is very easy, first he checks the ''route'' among pulleys and with a specific tool looses the mechanism, apply the new belt and release the locking mechanism.You can see on Youtube videos the procedure and that long tool for lock-unlock work.No need for a jack-stand, can be changed everywhere (on garage, as is outside from your home).

I don't see why the tensioner must be changed.

If the water pump is failed the mechanic raises the car, remove completely the coolant and apply the new pump (has new gasket on), keep in mind to buy the proper spare parts with your VIN handy because there are some variations (model, year, cc, a/c or not).

Many thanks for your help.  Because I would be the mechanic in this case, do you think it's a hard work to do it on my own? I need the "specific tool" to losen the tensioner or i can arrange something? Changing the tensioner i thought wouldbe a better work as i would change pump  , belt and tensioner. Isn'tit?

Why you want to change the pump? is there a leak,no so why?

Let the tensioner as is for a while.

 

First change the coolant and the belt,as for the belt here are 2 videos:

 

 

 

Of course for other cars the way is different and more difficult.

 

Fix the radiator fan 1st scale, change the coolant and the belt and make a road test.

  • Author

@D.FYLAKTOS i would change pump and tensioner because of the bad sound i wrote in the irst post, that is rev related and coming from the pump/tensioner. Do you think i could be only the belt? 

I have to tale a video for the sound.....

@Zimo

Repeat after me: "First find evidence of a faulty part then and only then buy a new part."

  • Author
12 minutes ago, RicardoM said:

@Zimo

Repeat after me: "First find evidence of a faulty part then and only then buy a new part."

As always thanks. So first thing first only change the belt? Ok

I only see now that I'm allowd to upload a sound clip.... give an hour and i will record one

  • Author

Please listen to this

Voce 004.m4a

 

It's engine rev related  because do like this even when still!

Edited by Zimo

this sounds like a clear bearing whine to me i would say either altenator bearings, or power steering pump

3 hours ago, Zimo said:

Please listen to this

What did you use to record the noise?

Where did you place the microphone?

Why didn't you make a video showing where you placed the (micro)phone?

3 hours ago, RicardoM said:

(micro)phone

That was clever I give it to ya 

  • Author

Another but stationary, still with phone( hahaha) still in the passenger footwell inside cabin

Voce 005.m4a

So you want us to listen for an engine noise using an audio record made inside the cabin? 😮

  • Author
1 hour ago, RicardoM said:

So you want us to listen for an engine noise using an audio record made inside the cabin? 😮

I had no one to press the gas pedal   ... i thought it was enough to understand that it is not only a belt problem...

Edited by Zimo

On 07/05/2020 at 13:03, Zimo said:

@D.FYLAKTOS i would change pump and tensioner because of the bad sound i wrote in the irst post, that is rev related and coming from the pump/tensioner. Do you think i could be only the belt? 

I have to tale a video for the sound.....

 

You can hear the noise of the belt which has problem. Open your hood, do you hear the same?

 

 

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