Greenline Battery replacement

[rainford]

Hi - I'm new to the forum so hope I am typing in the right place. My 2012 Greenline seems to have a failing battery. (I use the car very little so charge it weekly and have noticed that it is taking much longer to charge now). I have tried to source a battery online and these searches usually start with my registration number. The sites then suggest suitable batteries. I'm puzzled because all sites I have tried suggest a battery which is not suitable for the 'stop start' technology which my vehicle has. They usually  suggest an alternative more expensive 'AGM' battery which is. The 'stop start' function rarely operates on my car due to the limited mileage I do and it is not a priority for me. My question then is - can I fit the cheaper battery if I'm not using 'stop start' or does the vehicle need the AGM battery for some other reason such as regenerative braking?

Can anybody recommend a good source of a decent replacement battery - I don't want to go to a main agent as I haven't had the 'fix'.

[nige8021]

Try https://www.tayna.co.uk/  their reg # search seems much better than most, it gave the correct one for my Touareg with S/S and they are normally cheaper than most other online outlets, one thing to remember is the new battery will need to be re-coded to the car with suitable diagnostic kit like VCDS otherwise the system will continue to try and charge the battery at the old battery requirements so you might not get a fully re-charged battery 

[rum4mo]

Check to see what technology your current battery is, it should be EFB, note down its capacity in AmpHours and cold cranking rating in Amps CCA EN, just so that you are comparing like with like.

 

If your car has a standard battery due to a previous owner saving a bit of money, then don't repeat that mistake, either source an EFB or AGM.

 

I'll second Tayna, never used them but if local sources did not provide me with a good price and brand, I'd buy from Tayna.

[Murdockman]

I replaced my original battery on my Skoda with a Yuasa heavy duty one priced in Halfords at £1o5 at the time but found a seller on ebay selling same make delivered for £56  came well packed and no leaks very impressed with delivery also had a 5 year warrenty with it as well happy days, we did change the car but will replace battery with a Yuasa make again 

[UrbanPanzer]

I can vouch for Tayna, used them for years.

[rainford]

Thanks for the advice.

I'd assumed I needed an 096AGM battery as that is what is offered when checking sites using the registration number in addition to the standard 096. Its confusing because having entered the registration these sites clearly show that the car is a Greenline and as far as I know all the 2012 Greenlines have a 1.2 diesel with stop start as standard - so can't understand why a non AGM battery is offered. I have no way of knowing if it should actually be an EFB without removing the battery from the car (its the original battery from when I bought the car new) as it is not possible top read the sides with it in situ. Can I disconnect the battery to have a look without losing anything from the vehicles memory?

I have checked the Tayna website as recommended but having input the registration they merely suggest I look at the existing battery and suggest the possible marked code may be 096 or 096AGM.

[sepulchrave]

Ok, so I'm going to be completely blunt with you, if your stop/start system barely ever kicks in or you drive everywhere with it switched off then you can use a normal cheap battery but the cars fault warning system might not like it and I can't promise it won't.

 

I don't understand why you keep charging the battery when you aren't using it, AGM batteries are designed to sit for months with little loss of charge, you must stop doing that because you might have damaged the battery prematurely.

 

In your situation I wouldn't even bother replacing the battery until you have actual evidence that it's failing, particularly now the cold weather is behind us.

[nta16]

With Tayna (and others) you don't have to use your reg you can look up from the make, model and year to confirm battery.  As far as I can see if Tayna offers you 096 it asks if you have start/stop and if you click yes you are offered EFB or AGM.

 

The only thing I can add to all the advice already given is that you might not be charging your battery with the appropriate battery charger and/or appropriately, if you can give more details on this you may be able to save the cost of a replacement battery (one of the most oversold car parts)  - or it might be too late.

 

With the age of your car and your lack of use personally I think it's even more important to have a good quality battery not less.  I HATE any car that won't start and these over-complicated, over-intrusive, intertwined VW computer programs (especially VWs with start/stop) already have the potential to mess you around without you provoking them more with battery or connections issues, they will make you suffer for it.

 

After safety items one of the first things I checked with a car new to me was the battery it was either charged or if any doubt replaced.

 

Edited 22 March, 2022 by nta16

[Breezy_Pete]

@rainford if a battery is EFB or AGM it is usually quite clearly marked as such on the top face. Can you post a photo of the top?

[Cocain]

I wouldn't replace the battery.

I wouldn't charge it weekly.

I would take the battery to get it tested.

 

How do you charge it? Do you disconnect it fully and then give it a slow trickle charge? As that is better than leaving it connected.

 

You say you do not use it much but if I was not using my car for 2- 3 weeks I would disconnect my battery. How often do you actually use it? 

If you do a long journey when you do drive it that should charge it. If you do not do long journeys then it shouldn't be too bad if if it does fail as you may be local and not too much hassle to get a new one.

If you are dead set on getting a new one then get it just incase but don't install it. Then see how you get on with the current battery without charging it at all.

[rainford]

I have the type of charger which is meant to be left on all the time when the vehicle is not in use. It shows a red light when charging and this changes to green when it is up to charge. What I am finding is that the green light only stays on for about 20 seconds and then the red comes back on again as if the battery has lost some charge in that short time. Previously I used to disconnect it when up to charge and leave it for about 3 months before I put it on again. I also use the charger on another vehicle and it functions normally on that. 

Car is going for MOT tomorrow so will ask the garage to test the battery. I would like to know if it is OK to disconnect the battery to identify/replace it without losing memory in some of the cars functions. If not I will have to pay the garage to source the battery and fit it but suspect that won't be the cheapest option.

[rainford]

The car has done less than 100 miles in the last twelve months. Total mileage is still under 6,000 at 10 years old.

[J.R.]

Disconnect the battery from the vehicle and you will find that the charger will function correctly and as you expect with your battery.

[rainford]

Is it safe to disconnect? - don't want to upset the cars electronics.

[nta16]

53 minutes ago, rainford said:

Car is going for MOT tomorrow so will ask the garage to test the battery. I would like to know if it is OK to disconnect the battery to identify/replace it without losing memory in some of the cars functions.

Short answer - yes.

 

 

51 minutes ago, rainford said:

The car has done less than 100 miles in the last twelve months. Total mileage is still under 6,000 at 10 years old.

Though I think the battery might be able to be revived given above I think you personally might be best served by replacing the battery.  Get a battery of the same type, number of Ah and CCA number (check if the number is EN after it) and install.

 

If you put up a photo of the battery disconnected the details should be on the label(s).

 

 

[nta16]

ETA: see the Driver's Handbook, usually nothing really to do, just check your electric windows are up before disconnecting to save some little effort.

 

[KeithCheetham]

3 minutes ago, rainford said:

Is it safe to disconnect? - don't want to upset the cars electronics.

 

Charger make/model details required to understand how it should be used and if disconnection required - charges such as Ctek have looms to wire to battery so that battery is not required to be diss-connected. A new battery may want coding to the car via VCDS or similar - never understood this concept - only because never needed too. Car is nor a Tesla - simple terms battery is required to supply enough voltage and amperage at start-up, and to allow sufficient voltage to be maintained, with alternator support for ancillary equipment requirements - heater, lights, ECU functions. Your only issue appears to be longer charging which may just be that the edge has been taken off it.

 The only requirements that I can see are testing of the battery, and an understanding of how this charger should be used as you mention "charge it weekly" and also "I have the type of charger which is meant to be left on all the time when the vehicle is not in use".

[nta16]

My money is on it's an Accumate type of trickle charge/maintenance charger.  A photo of it might help with advice on its use with the new (or existing battery).

 

My money is also on if the MoT place sells batteries they will find the existing battery at fault probably correctly so at the moment but it also depends on what they use to test the battery at any time anyway.  Last battery that went to a 'recycler' from a neighbour got £8.

 

[BigEjit]

On 22/03/2022 at 12:12, rainford said:

Hi - I'm new to the forum so hope I am typing in the right place. My 2012 Greenline seems to have a failing battery. (I use the car very little so charge it weekly and have noticed that it is taking much longer to charge now). I have tried to source a battery online and these searches usually start with my registration number. The sites then suggest suitable batteries. I'm puzzled because all sites I have tried suggest a battery which is not suitable for the 'stop start' technology which my vehicle has. They usually  suggest an alternative more expensive 'AGM' battery which is. The 'stop start' function rarely operates on my car due to the limited mileage I do and it is not a priority for me. My question then is - can I fit the cheaper battery if I'm not using 'stop start' or does the vehicle need the AGM battery for some other reason such as regenerative braking?

Can anybody recommend a good source of a decent replacement battery - I don't want to go to a main agent as I haven't had the 'fix'.

***Long geeky post alert***

 

Going off the battery label part number in you pic, you have one of these AGMs currently as in the pic below and it looks like the original battery. Check the date on the +ve terminal and it should show Mm/yy format (expecting a 12 for the year if original fit).

 

7P0 915 105 VARTA AGM

 

Stop start is currently not working as the battery has fatigued and the car has recognised this. (There is a lot more hidden functionality to the Stop Start set up other than just cutting and restarting the engine.)

 

For Stop Start functions, ideally you should swap like for like AGM tech battery.

For your usage pattern, the 2 reasons for this are….
1, AGM is the best tech for Stop Start functionality as it is handles the tougher duty cycle the vehicle is set up to operate under. Fitting a lesser tech battery such as EFB or standard flooded won’t have much of a performance impact short term and stop start functionality will be restored but they will be under more operational stress and wear out quicker with vehicle use. 
 

2, As you are barely using the vehicle, the battery if left connected with monthly external charging cycles will be in a constant pattern of discharge/ recharge. AGM is the best battery tech to handle this type of duty cycle as it is more resistant to sulphation damage during discharge phases and recovers best on a recharge. Lesser tech won’t recover from discharge damage as well as AGM adding to a faster demise than what you have experienced so far. 

A third reason to stick with AGM is that by regular discharge/ recharge cycling, batteries are more at risk of drying out. AGM are valve regulated to prevent this, EFB and flooded are more vented and lose moisture quicker putting them at greater risk of ‘popping’ after a few years of the same regime. 

 

For a battery of 10 years aged and only now showing fatigue is exceptional for the duty cycle it’s operating under and is a testament to AGM performance. It’s been well maintained but is now wearing out. 
 

You won’t get the same longevity from lesser tech batteries if you are planning on keeping the car for a good few years yet.

 

 

 

 

 

[KeithCheetham]

9 hours ago, BigEjit said:

***Long geeky post alert***

 

@BigEjit This is the type of "geeky" posts that we really do require so no apology required, but I wonder if it would also be advantageous for you to repeat this into a new post titled AGM - EFB - Stop Start or something similar with this info and possibly, if you have the knowledge and data, explaining the difference in chargers - Acumate, Ctek, generic old school type - to ensure we all use the correct type, info on the hidden stop/start features as I believe that this would allow easier availability in a search. Your post has cleared up many things for me, including some simple things such as the date location on the post, and is the type of info I really enjoy.

[nta16]

11 hours ago, BigEjit said:

Check the date on the +ve terminal and it should show Mm/yy format (expecting a 12 for the year if original fit).

 

7P0 915 105 VARTA AGM

 

 

 

Just to confirm what is the mm/yy date to this battery?

 

[BigEjit]

2 hours ago, KeithCheetham said:

@BigEjit This is the type of "geeky" posts that we really do require so no apology required, but I wonder if it would also be advantageous for you to repeat this into a new post titled AGM - EFB - Stop Start or something similar with this info and possibly, if you have the knowledge and data, explaining the difference in chargers - Acumate, Ctek, generic old school type - to ensure we all use the correct type, info on the hidden stop/start features as I believe that this would allow easier availability in a search. Your post has cleared up many things for me, including some simple things such as the date location on the post, and is the type of info I really enjoy.

Thanks for the positivity. Much appreciated!

 

There’s quite a lot of open source info out on the internet, much more than I could ever fill a guide with. What isn’t so easily available is the answer to somebody’s immediate issue, especially as batteries are fickle organic lumps in a digital world and react to unique situations in different ways.

 

I try to help others out by explaining why a battery is doing what it’s doing based on its history. I guess we all want to help others experiencing issues anyway which is why we are all here. 

 

BTW, the only real rule for chargers is ensure a voltage limited device to 14.8v is used on an AGM. If it has AGM program, sorted!! 
 

EFB and Flooded are less fussy than AGM charging wise but need more attention and care as they are needy that way.