Hi

Recently acquired a ‘23 model Karoq 1.5TSI Manual!

I had read with some alarm that the earliest models could suffer stalling and worse, severe ‘kangarooing’ when taking off! I had presumed that this would have been long ago sorted for mine which is I believe EVO2 model!

Pulling away and transitioning from first to second seems a delicate affair to go smoothly! The worst trait however is stalling when slowing or stopping at Junctions! This can range from minor irritation to major alarm depending on the proximity and speed of other traffic! I find myself having to adapt my driving style to compensate for the cars basic shortcomings! I find it astonishing that a Global Brand such as VAG can’t produce a car capable of ticking over in this day and age!

Rant over! Has anyone ex of how to mitigate the stalling please??

This has been discussed at length here https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/521243-15-tsi-power-cutting-out/

It has been reported that using the 'old school' technique of changing down through the gears as you slow down is beneficial. This is what the DSG does and hence why many people suggest the DSG is better suited to the 1.5 TSI than the manual. Of course we all have our specific needs and preferences.

Thanks for the responses!

My conclusion is that the 1.5TSI which is fitted across all VAG brands and models is susceptible to stalling in certain situations and you have to learn to live with it! This is endemic to the design and manufacturing tolerances and no amount of software patches will eradicate! The Dealer will charge for diagnostics which won’t replicate the “fault” and elude that you are a “one-off”! (The Post Office & Post Masters defence) in fairness some owners have not experienced this issue!

This is a minor irritation not affecting a critical mass of users to trigger a “class action” as is common in USA and Australia (to a degree)

We all know about “dieselgate” but VAG have been served with other actions such as water pump (No not Watergate!!) and steering issues!

Now in my twilight years I’m not about to go all Ralph Nader and lead the charge! It’s a pity that this niggling “fault” tarnishes what is basically a good and well engineered and built vehicle!

Signed

Angry of Tunbridge Wells! 😂

@checkmate

Maybe invest in an OBD code reader to check for faults yourself? If you find something you can clear it & then see if it comes back next time you have an issue. That then gives you something to go to the dealer with.

Edited 27 October, 202527 Oct by Rbz5416

^^^ This. A very good idea for all modern vehicles. A good OBD II reader will probably cost less than just one diagnostic session.

Unfortunately, even very good independent garages will probably not accept an owners claim of faults present without carrying out their own checks - but it's at least a starting point for investigation.

Thanks Guys! I have a basic OBD!

A proper one can cost thousands!

I doubt there will be any codes at all!

It’s the way they are!

I’m going to have a go at changing into first at slow junctions ! Impossibility at larger fast junctions though where you normally cost through if traffic is clear ie roundabouts!

Anecdotally, it seems that letting the revs drop below 700 causes the problem. The DSG seems to prevent the revs getting that low by automatically changing down.

35 minutes ago, Ckeckmate said:

Thanks Guys! I have a basic OBD!

A proper one can cost thousands!

I doubt there will be any codes at all!

It’s the way they are!

I’m going to have a go at changing into first at slow junctions ! Impossibility at larger fast junctions though where you normally cost through if traffic is clear ie roundabouts!

Even a full-on VCDS doesn't cost 'Thousands'!

25 minutes ago, NottsIan said:

Anecdotally, it seems that letting the revs drop below 700 causes the problem. The DSG seems to prevent the revs getting that low by automatically changing down.

Thanks! I understand that logic but I think it’s happened when I have coasted in neutral! This was a no no when I learnt in the ‘60’s!

The mitigation could be so simple as changing the idle speed to say 850rpm!

Probably impossible in practice as need to fiddle with ECU and possibly infringe emissions standard!

Oh for a knurled screw on the carburettor cable throttle stop!

8 hours ago, Ckeckmate said:

......

My conclusion is that the 1.5TSI which is fitted across all VAG brands and models is susceptible to stalling in certain situations ...... manufacturing tolerances............

I think these two points from @checkmate are significant. If you get an engine that is spot on the specification (i.e. virtually blue-printed) it no doubt runs perfectly, BUT get one where a specific combination of components are close to the lower and upper tolerance limits and the engine misbehaves. Although no one has previously mentioned this it could also be related to battery voltage as the electronics in these vehicles are very susceptible to minute variations in voltage causing malfunctions.

Add to this I doubt even “factory trained” technicians at the dealership fully understand the intricacies of hardware/software/electronics/petrol combustion etc from first principles!

In fact I further believe that the number of boffins back in VAG would be less than a handful and hidden behind Marketing and PR folk whose job it is to preserve Brand reputation!

I saw a documentary on Boeing Dreamliner albeit several degrees more complex than a road vehicle but the principles are the same!

Boeing outsource the production to many disparate entities who have experts in their respective fields but no central agency to fully understand how they work together or more fundamentally when they don’t!

What works fine in. Lab may be very different after 5 years life on the road in the real world!

Hi

My problems on my 74 plate Manual Sportline 1.5tsi have been documented on this forum. I just wanted to pick up on the comments made about rpm.

One of my issues has been that the revs sometimes dip to around 500rpm and then if you put your foot on the accelerator the engine just dies.

The car has been to the garage twice and yes I’ve had the usual std comments back

I love the interior and the style of the car but I’m not a million miles away from changing to a Toyota touring sport (ecvt)

I guess as with everybody you have to be able to trust your car

BTW I use premium petrol and have put in a false floor to counteract the high pedal box -doing those has helped a bit

12 minutes ago, SaintViking said:

Hi

My problems on my 74 plate Manual Sportline 1.5tsi have been documented on this forum. I just wanted to pick up on the comments made about rpm.

One of my issues has been that the revs sometimes dip to around 500rpm and then if you put your foot on the accelerator the engine just dies.

The car has been to the garage twice and yes I’ve had the usual std comments back

I love the interior and the style of the car but I’m not a million miles away from changing to a Toyota touring sport (ecvt)

I guess as with everybody you have to be able to trust your car

BTW I use premium petrol and have put in a false floor to counteract the high pedal box -doing those has helped a bit

It’s a shame isn’t it!

We swapped this from a RAV4 which was utterly reliable and better built and engineered in every respect but was pushing 15 years old!

It was fantastic for our hound as had very low load lip plus unique side hinged tailgate (to avoid trapping tails!)

Would unhesitatingly hot a new one but the new one has larger engine normal tailgate and awful CVT gearbox!

Don’t worry your choice says e-CVT but it does not have a troublesome rubber or metal drive belt but a proper epicyclic box with few moving parts!

A Corolla Sportback was top of shortlist but quite rare and wife prefers SUV driving lookout! Toyota consistently more reliable and with greater longevity than VAG or other makes all day long!!

2 minutes ago, Ckeckmate said:

It’s a shame isn’t it!

We swapped this from a RAV4 which was utterly reliable and better built and engineered in every respect but was pushing 15 years old!

It was fantastic for our hound as had very low load lip plus unique side hinged tailgate (to avoid trapping tails!)

Would unhesitatingly hot a new one but the new one has larger engine normal tailgate and awful CVT gearbox!

Don’t worry your choice says e-CVT but it does not have a troublesome rubber or metal drive belt but a proper epicyclic box with few moving parts!

A Corolla Sportback was top of shortlist but quite rare and wife prefers SUV driving lookout! Toyota consistently more reliable and with greater longevity than VAG or other makes all day long!!

Forget to say in my ramblings I only used Premium Diesel in the RAV ! Zero problems with DPF/EGR that afflict most modern diesels in short cycle journeys!

Similarly the Karoq drinks BP or Shell premium fuel for the reasons you say plus potentially staving off the carbon deposits on the inlet valves which afflicts all direct injection engines! Lastly coming from when “pinking” was prevalent using lower grade fuel I believe the 12.5:1 Compression Ratio warrants it! Somewhere in the Skoda blurb it says 98 is better but not mandatory!

I ran my Company Mercs BMW Jags on cheapest fuel and whilst having no problems during lease the oil was blackened after a few days after a fresh service!

It may be just a placebo but for the price of weekly coffee it’s my peace of mind!

BP Super Unleaded E5 is 97 ron min, and Shell V-Power 99 ron min.

Tesco Momentum 99 (99 ron min) or Sainsburys 97 Ron min are maybe even better running fuels.

Around the UK Esso 99 might have no Bio-ethanol in in some regions.

TSI,s love Ethanol.

No 98 ron Unleaded has been on sale in the UK for over a decade.

VW FAQ,s say '98 octane' R / GTI.

Your 1.5 TSI ACT does not mention 98 Octane does it? Does no harm using the E5, usually does good, higher octane, more detergents, but best you know what you buy...

PS

The 'Anti stall' seems to be faulty..

Edited 27 October, 202527 Oct by Evolution13

BP Super Unleaded E5 is 97 ron min, and Shell V-Power 99 ron min.

12 minutes ago, Evolution13 said:

Tesco Momentum 99 (99 ron min) or Sainsburys 97 Ron min are maybe even better running fuels.

Around the UK Esso 99 might have no Bio-ethanol in in some regions.

TSI,s love Ethanol.

No 98 ron Unleaded has been on sale in the UK for over a decade.

VW FAQ,s say '98 octane' R / GTI.

Your 1.5 TSI ACT does not mention 98 Octane does it? Does no harm using the E5, usually dores good, higher octane, more detergents, but best you know what you buy...

Thanks! That’s very enlightening!

I think I was using the fuel quality parameters too loosely and the Skoda blurb in the tank flap just quotes E5 & E10 standards!

I have learned now that not all E5 are created equal! And some Supermarkets offer more than the basic fuel!

It’s very hard these days to get facts or truths in a world of Advertising, Ai and Internet influencers!! 😩

Have run my wife's 7 years plus Karoq on cheapest E10 since we got it new, been bombproof, as has my nearly 3 year old Kamiq, also run on cheapest E10. My previous car, a 10 year old Ford Focus from new, also ran on E10. Needed front wheel bearings replaced but that was it, and still working fine with a friend of mine 3 years later. In my mind nothing wrong with cheapest E10 😁

3 hours ago, sussamb said:

Have run my wife's 7 years plus Karoq on cheapest E10 since we got it new, been bombproof, as has my nearly 3 year old Kamiq, also run on cheapest E10. My previous car, a 10 year old Ford Focus from new, also ran on E10. Needed front wheel bearings replaced but that was it, and still working fine with a friend of mine 3 years later. In my mind nothing wrong with cheapest E10 😁

That’s interesting?

Is the Karoq a 1.5TSI? Manual or DSG?

Did it ever exhibit kangarooing pulling away or stalling R Junctions??

Karoq manual, Kamiq is DSG. No issues with either pulling away or stalling.

I guess everyone who has been following this discussion for some time (on the long earlier thread) knows it is pointless to complain to a Skoda dealer and get them to investigate, as they will say 'no fault found'.

However, if anyone is minded to have the problem investigated, I suggest not using the term 'stalling'. As soon as one says that, people assume driver error. Whatever it is caused by, it is not caused by trying to engage the clutch at standstill with too few revs.

There are several outstandingly good VAG independent tuning specialists around the country. They can diagnose faults in depth, far better than franchised dealers. I don't want my car 'tuned' but if I lived near one of these companies I'd be asking them to try to diagnose the fault.

On the earlier thread I wrote more than once about having been able to mitigate the problem by 'Italian tune-up'. Now, after nearly a year, I can update my report. Italian tune-up has continued to help, but it has not been a total cure. The engine now cuts out once or twice a month. Before that it was every day or two. I agree with thamestrader that changing down through the gears as you slow down is beneficial. And with his speculation that it could be voltage-related (as well as other possible causes, like a sensor sooting up). The mystery remains and so does the annoyance.

Edited 28 October, 202528 Oct by mumpsim

@mumpsim i think your Italian tuneup effect is interesting. I wonder if that indicates that usage pattern may be a factor; short journeys low mileage cars suffering more than the high mileage with predominantly longer journeys.

55 minutes ago, thamestrader said:

@mumpsim i think your Italian tuneup effect is interesting. I wonder if that indicates that usage pattern may be a factor; short journeys low mileage cars suffering more than the high mileage with predominantly longer journeys.

Yes, that might well be another of the many possibilties. However, I was disappointed to have the engine cut out near the end of a fast 200-mile drive last week, preceded by a fast 200-mile drive 3 days earlier. As always, one person's experience doesn't tell us much, and we've seen no consistent pattern from the experience of others either.

I agree “staling” can be dismissed as a driver instigated error (like we all did as learners!) it’s more the engine petering out itself! This can only be due to lack of spark or petrol vapour mix in the right place at the right time!

These are complex engines with sophisticated valve timings and you would expect the manufacturer to know how to properly diagnose! I also take the point that independent experts are often streets ahead in terms of practical experience and knowledge as well as the absolute commitment to actually do something! If everyone who had a problem went en masse to VAG dealer the inconvenience may prompt them !

However in practice more of an inconvenience to users! I’m curious the motoring press and media hasn’t picked this up!

It took a TV play to rumble the Post Office who has taken the pxxxx for years!!