Rear washer jet issues... help!

[ultra_joel88]

Mine has stopped working but the actual pump is not making any "buzzzz" noise like it was before, even though the fronts are working ok?

what causes this?

fuse?

[andy2407]

2) Behind the brake lines running to and from the ABS unit, on the engine bay bulkhead, approximately behind the top/right corner of the engine. There will be a stub hose coming out of the bulkhead, and the other section of hose will most likely be hanging loose. You will find it easier to unscrew the top of the air filter box and move it out of the way. Then reach in and connect the two sections of pipe. It's possible with one hand, although if you have small hands and arms, it will be easier to use both. Use a cable-tie if you wish, but the above warning applies. Make sure the engine's cold if you have to do this, as you'll be fiddling about next to some potentially very hot parts!

Thanks for this guide.

I've located the leak at this position, and got the ends of the pipe back together with what felt to be a positive click, but there is still water spraying out.

Is there some kind of washer / seal / 'O' ring in the joint that may have been lost?

Any ideas?

TIA

Andy

[Phil_Peck]

Thanks for this guide.

I've located the leak at this position, and got the ends of the pipe back together with what felt to be a positive click, but there is still water spraying out.

Is there some kind of washer / seal / 'O' ring in the joint that may have been lost?

Any ideas?

TIA

Andy

I've fixed this one countless times on one of our vrs cars. Don't think there's any seal thing. Should clip back together nicely and not leak at all. Is the water still spraying out from that point or is it coming from near the fog light on the left front?

[andy2407]

I've fixed this one countless times on one of our vrs cars. Don't think there's any seal thing. Should clip back together nicely and not leak at all. Is the water still spraying out from that point or is it coming from near the fog light on the left front?

Definitely spraying from the same point. After pushing the two ends together I kept my hand in the area and could feel the water when I got someone to operate the rear wash.

Will have another go at pushing the ends together then - its a pain to get at but I'll persevere.

I was using the "left arm along the side of the airbox and right arm from above down the bulkhead" method.

[Juego]

Mines constantly disconnects at the bulk head. Don't get water leaking in as it's not connect through the grommit hole anymore as my Boost guage pipe now shares that hole so it's next to the brake pipes

How can i stop it popping their? It does it first time i try to use the rear wash wipe again after pushing it back together. I know the link suggests a cable tie but i dunno where you can put a cable tie on it that would work?

When i get round to doing the bigger washer bottle mod as the small ones doing my head in! i'm gonna run one full bit of rubber pipe from the bottle back to stop it disconnecting constantly!

[john_y]

Hi, can someone help please the link doesn't work

As a bit of an aside, I see that most of the posters in this thread are pretty new, in which case could I please suggest you use the 'Search' button in future for queries like this - it's there for a reason...! In fact, one of our members has even posted a link to the official Skoda Technical Bulletin on the issue!

Anyway, lecture over - hope you all get your washers fixed!

[myskoda]

great topic, does this also apply to the comfort estate ?

The pipe will have disconnected in one of four places. You don't need a ramp for any of them. In approximate order of likelihood:

1) Behind the trim running along the NSR seat back. Fold the seat forward and pull the plastic trim away (two round clips will come off). Find the black hose running up from the floor into the boot, and locate the connector. Push the two sections together, and fasten with a cable-tie if required (at your own risk: the connector is a 'weak link' to protect against the hose itself bursting)

2) Behind the brake lines running to and from the ABS unit, on the engine bay bulkhead, approximately behind the top/right corner of the engine. There will be a stub hose coming out of the bulkhead, and the other section of hose will most likely be hanging loose. You will find it easier to unscrew the top of the air filter box and move it out of the way. Then reach in and connect the two sections of pipe. It's possible with one hand, although if you have small hands and arms, it will be easier to use both. Use a cable-tie if you wish, but the above warning applies. Make sure the engine's cold if you have to do this, as you'll be fiddling about next to some potentially very hot parts!

3) At the connector to the rear washer pump. The trim inside the boot lid pulls away (you may need to prop it open), and you can then access the pump. Re-fitting the trim can be tricky if you bend the clips, and don't forget the feed the pull handle through before you start putting it all back together! Again, you can cable-tie if you want, but it's at your own risk.

4) At the connector to the reservoir pump. Remove the Torx scews around the front edge of the NSF wheel arch, pull it back and use a bit of wood or plastic to wedge it open. You can then access the pump, reconnect the hose (and cable-tie at your own risk!)

As a bit of an aside, I see that most of the posters in this thread are pretty new, in which case could I please suggest you use the 'Search' button in future for queries like this - it's there for a reason...! In fact, one of our members has even posted a link to the official Skoda Technical Bulletin on the issue!

Anyway, lecture over - hope you all get your washers fixed!

[anewman]

I have just had a nice full rear passenger foot well of screen wash. Is there only the one connection behind the trim as shown in my picture below? It appeared to be disconnected when I had removed the trim, although confusingly the screen wash still seemed to come out at the rear screen full pelt and there was no obvious indication it has been leaking near this connection.

[Jim H]

I have just had a nice full rear passenger foot well of screen wash. Is there only the one connection behind the trim as shown in my picture below? It appeared to be disconnected when I had removed the trim, although confusingly the screen wash still seemed to come out at the rear screen full pelt and there was no obvious indication it has been leaking near this connection.

Are you sure you are looking at the right thing? There is a connection on the black plastic pipe. If you are still not sure, have someone operate the washer, while you look for the leak.

[anewman]

Are you sure you are looking at the right thing? There is a connection on the black plastic pipe. If you are still not sure, have someone operate the washer, while you look for the leak.

Black plastic pipe near the red arrow location (difficult to show precisely). There was a "click" fit connection type thing on the hose, which I found was unclicked (although no sign of leaked screenwash around it after a good long spray and saturating the footwell). It looks very much like it follows the wiring loom and goes across to the drivers side in front of the seats?

I have just read on another thread a suggestion that when it leaks it causes a delay in the screen wash hitting the rear screen (as it has to refill the bit that leaked out) so I presume if I have fixed the leak, the delay that was there before will be gone.

[fuey]

I have just had a nice full rear passenger foot well of screen wash. Is there only the one connection behind the trim as shown in my picture below? It appeared to be disconnected when I had removed the trim, although confusingly the screen wash still seemed to come out at the rear screen full pelt and there was no obvious indication it has been leaking near this connection.

mine was loose there too

i plugged it back together, which forced the bulk-head joint to pop off, but that was another easy fix

[andrewd]

Thanks for the detailed post ap0gee.

After having a poke around the NSR seat, I found that mine had popped apart at location 2. I was able to reach in pretty easily with both hands - one over the back of the airbox pipe, and the other underneath it in order to reconnect the pipe. I knew my small hands would be a blessing one day.

[WAZZAG]

My rear washer stopped working too, but thanks for this topic, i found mine was disconnected at point 2. Pushed the two pipes back in till it clicked and now all working again

Pics below to help others.

Edited 1 December, 2010 by WAZZAG

[virusman26]

Nice one, I've just started having trouble with my rear wash jet. It's frozen up but never worked since last week. I'll check on the connections later!!

[Paul Bennett]

latter pictures just helped me sort mine out

[ians1386]

thanks for this I found mine had come apart on the bulkhead

thanks for this post :yes:

[saint1d]

I had the same problem, bulkhead had come away. Was easy to fix once I knew what to look for. Gotta love Briskoda

[Kenny Freckles]

Just managed to sort this problem on our Vrs thanks to this thread, ours had come adrift near the bulkhead and i found access easier attacking it from below the airbox standing at the front of the car.

Although the pipes clicked back together nicely and the rear wash/wiper now works fine there is still a dribble from the connection but nothing to worry about.

[SLIMTONY1]

HI just had the same problem at the bulkhead read this great forum and found the pipe which was unclipped completely popped off,

i reconnected the connector but is still leaking bad , how hard do you have to push this in it seems to be clipped in ok but still leaking very bad.

Also when its unclipped it doesnt seem to be leaking anywhere top and bottom of the connector,but when reclipped and rear washer used it leaks out from top and bottom of connector , do i have to buy a new connector ? cut and refit oh i got left hands lol

Edited 28 December, 2010 by SLIMTONY1

[m collinson]

Hello,

Front washer hose has a connection just before it disappears into cabin, mine too started leaking last winter.

What I did could be classed as a botched job or improvisation??

I cut off both fittings to each end of pipes, slipped a short length of rubber hose over each end, and secured with plastic ties.

The washer pipes are thick and rigid, so it will take a good sharp pair of snips to cut off the connections.

I ensured that my new connection's remained in engine bay area, with foresight that my job had no guarantee.

Up until today no water has leaked, so my botched/improvisation is holding water. LOL.

You might want to replace fittings to keep it all original, you will find it is not straight-forward.The pipe end connections will fight you, to be removed, so you still may have to cut ends off??

Pipes are thick plastic and not pliable and, probably need to be dipped into hot water to enable you to push new end connection's into pipe ends?

As to the rear washer, tailgate trim to be removed, push pipe that become displaced back onto place.Test for leakeage and replace trim.

Trim removal is a fight, replacing a battle, both can be accomplished by any able-bodied person.

Good luck, whatever you do. Ian. 28/08/2009 :thumbup:

[m collinson]

I have had this problem for a long time. On my Fabia Estate. the pipe was leaking ( A LOT) at the join above the NSR wheel arch yet water was still reaching the screen in a fashion. Clues are :- the carpet in the passenger footwell is soaking wet; strong smell of screen wash additive when rear washer is activated ; washer bottle soon empties.

Conclusive proff of a leak can be established as follows :- Lift bonnet and fill reservoir to top; get an assistant to hold a plastic bottle over rear nozzle and operate rear washer for a while. take the bottle and pour contents into reservoir; if there is a leak, the reservoir will not fill to the top. Easy!!!!

As others have said, the hard part is getting the trim off and then replacing it !!!!

I removed about a gallon of liquid from under the passenger footwell carpet with a wet/dry vacuum !!!

Good luck, Noz.

[Sp1tF1re]

:( I have looked in all 4 arias and all are connected! i don't have any wet carpet or boot puddles AHHHHH!

the front work fine just not the back. can you get blockages?

any advise as i hate being beaten but i'm at the point of throwing in the towel.

[RickLeeds]

Reconnecting the bulkhead hoses in the engine bay is much easier with two people. One standing at the front of the car and using one hand to push the hose. The other stands by the passenger door and uses their left hand to hold the hose union. I think only people who have had to do this will understand what I'm on about, but it's to do with getting a hand the right way round.

(Caution, it does result in the two of you grunting and groaning and saying things like "Is it in yet?" "No, push harder!")

Also, after this cold weather I can add one more variable to the equation. The washer stopped squirting one very cold morning, so I assumed the nozzles were frozen and the connection had popped off. It hadn't. Then I realised I couldn't hear the reservoir pump working. So the next thought was a fuse had gone as the pump over-loaded trying to pump ice.

Managed to drive for a couple of hours (note to self, don't ask other half to look up fuse locations via txt messages again), when suddenly the pump was working again.

All I can think is that the water in the pump froze solid and wouldn't even let it try moving. This was with a reasonable washer mix in, but it was -10 or so. I guess the position of the reservoir low down and away from the heat of the engine allows it to happen. Happened a few more times, so I'm now wondering about stuffing a bit of insulation around the reservoir.

[A Woodster]

I had posted in a separate thread about loads of intermittent problems I have been having with speedo suddenly stopping working and then associated warning lights coming on for ABS, VSA and Power steering. Each time it was normally ok after a re-start, but now the MIL light has been coming on.

Got the MIL reset last night and fault code was showing as malfunction on ABS unit. Drove home ok and this morning with no warning which still confirmed to me that this was an intermittent fault rather than a major issue with ABS.

Anyway, to explain why i am posting this here.......

Took out airbox and anything else in the way to get down to have a look at ABS unit, i was greeted by a puddle of water and a disconnected rear washer pipe! Even my slow brain now made the link with the fact that my rear washer has not been working most of the winter!

I had been continually testing the rear washer this week whilst driving, with no success, but now realise that this was dumping it all over the harness and ABS unit in that area.

I am surprised that this has caused a fault as the unit and harness should be 'engine bay proof'.

I have sorted the pipe, covered the area in water displacer, but the car is still showing just the MIL lamp and the ABS lamp. I guess that this needs to be reset as the car has seen a problem with the ABS (even if it should be working now) and has done the safety override of shutting down the system until reset correcly by dealer.

I have now disconnected the battery in the vain hope that this will reset the MIL light if left long enough - does anyone know if this works with the VAG unit??

To say I am pi55ed off with the designer who placed a push-fit connection directly over the ABS unit electronics is an understatement!! I will be proper fuming though if the reset doesn't help and i have to get a new ABS unit.

Andy.

[sharksworth]

The pipe will have disconnected in one of four places. You don't need a ramp for any of them. In approximate order of likelihood:

1) Behind the trim running along the NSR seat back. Fold the seat forward and pull the plastic trim away (two round clips will come off). Find the black hose running up from the floor into the boot, and locate the connector. Push the two sections together, and fasten with a cable-tie if required (at your own risk: the connector is a 'weak link' to protect against the hose itself bursting)

2) Behind the brake lines running to and from the ABS unit, on the engine bay bulkhead, approximately behind the top/right corner of the engine. There will be a stub hose coming out of the bulkhead, and the other section of hose will most likely be hanging loose. You will find it easier to unscrew the top of the air filter box and move it out of the way. Then reach in and connect the two sections of pipe. It's possible with one hand, although if you have small hands and arms, it will be easier to use both. Use a cable-tie if you wish, but the above warning applies. Make sure the engine's cold if you have to do this, as you'll be fiddling about next to some potentially very hot parts!

3) At the connector to the rear washer pump. The trim inside the boot lid pulls away (you may need to prop it open), and you can then access the pump. Re-fitting the trim can be tricky if you bend the clips, and don't forget the feed the pull handle through before you start putting it all back together! Again, you can cable-tie if you want, but it's at your own risk.

4) At the connector to the reservoir pump. Remove the Torx scews around the front edge of the NSF wheel arch, pull it back and use a bit of wood or plastic to wedge it open. You can then access the pump, reconnect the hose (and cable-tie at your own risk!)

As a bit of an aside, I see that most of the posters in this thread are pretty new, in which case could I please suggest you use the 'Search' button in future for queries like this - it's there for a reason...! In fact, one of our members has even posted a link to the official Skoda Technical Bulletin on the issue!

Anyway, lecture over - hope you all get your washers fixed!

Part 2 worked for me on my Silverline Estate - caused by an idiot - me - not have decent screen wash in the system

Thank you so much for this fantastic help forum and the clear concise advice

D