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In which case, just as easy (and you’ll save on labour cost to buy new wishbones/control arms seeing as they almost all come with the new bushes and ball joints in.

Check your PMs.

@pab567 czy mogę liczyć na wsparcie? będę bardzo wdzięczny za pomoc.

Hi everyone, I have a 2021 Škoda Karoq currently running software version 270 (CIL), and I would like to update it to the latest version 332. I've read that an intermediate update to version 308 may be required before upgrading to version 332. Could anyone confirm if the correct update path is 270 → 308 → 332? Is version 308 really necessary, or can I update directly from 270 to 332? Also, is the update process as simple as copying the required files onto a USB-C drive, plugging it into the car, and waiting for the update to complete? Or are there any additional steps or precautions I should be aware of? I'd really appreciate any advice or anyone's experience with this update. Thanks in advance!

My understanding from the conversation with the tester, was that it's the wishbone bushes.

Asked Skoda while it was in for service for the loading of ash in the dpf, they said it's 33g and the max limit for replacement is 80g and that tallies up with my vag dpf app which reports the ash loading at 33.6g as well. So it's not even half full of ash yet at nearly 9 years old it's not even halfway full as yet. Now whether it's had a dpf replacement before I got it nearly 4 years ago no idea but just thought it was interesting info for people with dpfs. But I have in my ownership always nearly used vag dpf to monitor the dpf and when it needs a recent and ensure it always compleyee a dpf regen. So the moral of the story is look after then and they can last and I only do 8k miles a year as well.

Red circles are a pair of Hella horns - louder than standard, 110dB -> 118dB The scuttle trim is just openings, the trim panel just traps it really. I'm trying to guide the air to try and make some pressure into the airbox. Stones etc - yes, but it looks good!

Also K&N panel air filter, MST turbo inlet bend pipe, APR coilpacks, EQT coilpack earthing kit.

What’s the red circles behind the grill? Are you worried about stones through the radiator? Also doesn’t the slam/scuttle trim panel that goes above there act to deflect the air into the air box anyway? Without the need for the deflectors?

Ooo they’re nice. I had been eyeing up the team dynamics LT in black. No way can I afford them mind you! Team Dynamics MotorsportPro Race LT Lightweight Alloy Wheel - Team Dynamics Motor...Pro Race LT is an ultra-lightweight, race-inspired, performance alloy wheel. Designed with inspiration from the British Touring Car Championship

No mate, all in I got £140 for labour and £9 for the pump, so out of pocket. They said they only paid a max of £60 an hour for labour(in the small print) so for both visits and the washer fluid, gasket, still out of pocket because I used the dealer.

Hi, I know that this is a relatively old thread and that you may no longer even have the vehicle, but my previous 1.5TSI made a similar almost 'Chuffing' sound when it finally settled doen to normal idle. It turned out to be a cracked connector in the EVAP system (Petrol Vapour Recovery).

Yeah, mods ready. Need to save lots of pennies again.

Yep that's a decent go of it. The opening of the hole is the main thing. The mygolfmk7 guy did some testing on the ducting and found negligible difference but he was marking that against the claims of lower intake temps and % increases in power/torque. Either way, it looks like you're on the right track making sure the air moves up and into the airbox which is the best you can do. You're right about the grill too - I was wondering about whether a neat job can be done with a dremel on opening up the gaps a little more to allow for flow while keeping it standard but the honeycomb grill looks good and plenty open too. So is it right you've got the r600 and intercooler done but no remap yet? You'll enjoy that when its done then!

I didn't ignore the question on purpose, I didn't even notice it. My bad! I'm not the first owner, I'm the third one to be exact, so I can't tell you with 100% certainty whether it's the original one or not. Though I can specifically recall a mechanic that specialises in Skoda vehicles telling me that all the motors are not "genuine". That's all I know officially. I tried a 6Y1959801 motor and it ended up doing the same that the one I have already. At least all windows worked (still not correctly), compared to the others that only moved the side passenger window. And I live in Greece.

Hi all I had done the R600 pikey mod air intake mod on my Superb some years ago, pretty much after I had just bought it. Recently, I had some work done on my car (waterpump, thermostat, aux belt, do88 intercooler) so the bumper had to come off. What I found surprised me - there was airflow on the left side from in front of the grill to the intake of the airbox, but not on the RH side, making the airbox opening on the RH side somewhat redundant. I think this is Skoda specific maybe? You can see where the airbox is opened up above on the RH side as per the R600 pikey mod, but there's no corresponding airflow from the radiator area. So, first I went round and made lots of drillholes in the panel and snapped it out. Next, I tidied it up with a dremel clone so no loose bits to go into the air intake - no picture. Then, I remembered about a kit that is available on the Mk7 Golf GTi to guide air into the air intake I had a different idea about how to mount them - upside down to guide air into the airbox better. I was actually at one point thinking of using 2 scoops per side (one above and one below), but I realised that I could be directing debris and water directly into the air intake, so glad I didnt. Here is how that came out. I am holding them at this point because I hadn't fastened them down properly. I topped that all off with a SuperSkoda grille which has far more open air to it over the standard grill which only has each slot open about 35%. This is all ahead of a remap once the DSG and haldex are serviced.

@Tankdave Too I believe…

Are you saying your warranty provider only reimbursed you £9 for a valid £345 claim?

Good tip BazzY. If anyone goes the LED route, pick ones listed as CANbus/error-free so you don't get a bulb warning on the dash, and check they sit the right way round in the holder so the beam isn't pointing at the back of the lamp.

Thanks Pete, good shout. Worth giving the dealer or parts counter your VIN when ordering it, as the 1.2 TSI had a couple of engine codes around 2013 and you want to be sure you get the one that matches your car.

It is an electric actuator, and is available from Skoda as a spare part, item 2 here: https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/YET/666/1/145/145050

I do like them! Can you PM me the link

Motec MCR2. Perfect.

Right. All 4 buttons are pushed in. If you let out the one with the car picture on, it turns off the courtesy lights. If you let out any of the others it turns them on individually accordingly. If you let out the others while courtesy button is in, then they get brighter and stay on when courtesy button is released.

Had the same issue with a Golf. Replaced the bulbs with LEDs from ABD.co.uk and it's about 6 times better and brighter - and yes, still white...no canbus errors. Remember when fitting that LEDs often work only one way round so if at first an LED doesn't work take it out and put back in the other way round. Good Luck.