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Hi there @borderbilly - I've just joined this forum as well, but because I already have a Skoda Superb (purchased to tow a caravan) and am having a lot of issues with the tow bar. My advice is do not go for an after market tow bar as it could cause you a lot of problems later on! I've currently got a superb that isn't safe to tow a caravan with as the hazards randomly come on and seat belts tighten up. I believe the Superb is a brilliant tow car once the tow bar issues will be resolved, but just take care when you choose what tow bar to buy! I've joined this forum so that I can participate to the conversation this topic, but saw your message in the search so wanted to bring this to your attention!

VW group specify the numbers like 502 00, 504 00, not viscosity.

Hi everybody, can anyone help with MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0253T firmware? I can't find it anywhere.. Thanks!

They did. But the recommendation never changed. Actually there were recommendations as the engines. Actually with the Euro 5 TSI,s VW recommended as engines aged you changed to servicing using 5w 40 FS and fixed service regime. the 40 better at higher temperatures more stable & better turbo charger protection. Compensating (after 5 years) for internal engine wear. The slightly higher hot viscosity oil helps maintain oil pressure and cushioning. Those were from VW not me, and not AI.

I would guess that there weren't any 0W30s on the market then which met the correct VW group specs. Things evolve.

Why was 0w 30 FS III not the recommended oil back when they produced the Euro 5 engines. There are EURO 6 and

For best cold start-up filling of tensioner and lubing of chain, 0W oils should outperform 5W.

I think this is the same car as your P2563 thread, so it's worth knowing the turbo fault is still there when you judge any of this. The figure I'd focus on is the ash. A regeneration burns soot, but it can't burn ash. Ash is what's left from oil additives, plus a little from fuel and engine wear, and it just builds up in the filter over the years. At 230,000 km some is expected. If the app is right that it's at 153% of its limit, there's less room left for soot, so the filter reaches its soot threshold sooner and regenerates more often. That fits what you're seeing in town. That's why I don't think a software rollback on its own will fix it. Older software won't take ash out of the filter. Also, 9980 is presumably the 23R6 update Skoda did on EA189 engines, and Skoda say the regulators approved it, so going back to the old software means the car is no longer on the approved calibration. I'd check where you stand on that where you live before doing it. What I'd do instead: 1. Check the differential pressure sensor reading with the engine off. With nothing flowing it should read about zero. If it shows a pressure with the engine stopped, the sensor or its pipes are suspect, and so is the soot figure the ECU is working from. Check both little hoses for splits and blockages while you're there. 2. Get the filter cleaned off the car by someone who does a proper ash clean (heat, then air and vacuum, or a flush), or replace it. A chemical clean through the sensor port mainly works on soot. Ask them for a before and after flow or back pressure figure. 3. Keep an eye on oil use and use the right oil. The Superb handbook lists VW 507 00 for the 125 kW TDI CR with DPF, 4.3 litres with filter. Oil the engine burns adds to the ash. 4. The ash number in the app is the ECU's own estimate, so make sure whoever cleans or replaces the filter resets the DPF values in the ECU afterwards. If the car is in the UK, keep the invoice. The MOT manual says a DPF that has been cut open and rewelded is a fail unless you can show there was a valid reason, such as cleaning.

It's has gone into an independent garage today for oil an filter change. He uses 5W 30W for this engine so looking good

What about just turning the radio off before starting engine?

Hi, Did you have a look by Kufatec? They may sell plug and play adapters...

I've never done this, so I'm not 100% sure, but cars made after 1996 should have the newer radiator support panel, compatible with both types of the lock. Try to remove the old lock, there may be extra holes hidden under the cover (sorry, I couldn't find better photos of a bare panel) For reference, the older panel, that's not compatible with the facelift lock, looks like this So yours should be compatible.

Sorry its Gearbox. On my sons mk1 its a braided strap. Alasdair

I would be requesting back to 5w 30 FS III then which was @nd still is the spec of oil for that engine. Personally if noise I would go 5w 40 FS which was and is still the spec if you want and as long as doing fixed regime oil and filter changes.

Heritage Skoda charge £40 for a courtesy car.

For what it’s worth… I notice that, when I said that Skoda only advised that a single 2.5bar inflation-pressure should be used for the tyres fitted to Skoda Fabia Mk4 cars, that was not correct. The ’correct’ tyre pressure for Fabia Mk4s was discussed here https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/522596-correct-tyre-pressure/ when I provided the following photo of my own Mk4 SE L car’s pressure-sticker. It will be seen that the 2.5bar front- and rear-axles pressure recommendation applies only to ‘normal’ loading (3 people + 3 suitcases) whereas 2.7bar (front axle) and 3.4bar (rear axle) are advised for ‘heavy’ loading (5 people + 5 suitcases

Hi everyone, I'm trying to diagnose a persistent front-left ABS wheel-speed sensor fault on my 2011 Skoda Octavia Scout 2.0 TDI 4x4 (Mk2). The fault code I'm getting is 00283:012 – Front Left ABS Wheel Speed Sensor – Electrical Fault. So far I've: Replaced the front-left ABS sensor. Checked the voltage at the sensor connector and found approximately 2V across the two wires, compared with around 11.4V on the working opposite side. When connecting my multimeter between battery positive (+) and the sensor wiring, I was getting approximately 11.5V. This makes me wonder whether there's a problem with the sensor's supply or return circuit. Checked the short ABS sensor wiring harness, including the black and brown wires where they join the main loom. Checked for continuity between the sensor wiring and the ABS module connector, but haven't managed to establish continuity. I've removed the ABS module connector, which I think is the the 47-pin version with three rows of terminals but not sure if it could be the 26 way and if this refers to rows in use? I've seen discussions on here identifying the rear-left sensor as pins 36 and 37 and the rear-right as pins 43 and 42 on the 47-pin connector. However, I'm trying to establish the correct pin numbers for the FRONT LEFT ABS sensor. I've also been given a wiring diagram suggesting pins 8 and 9, but I want to confirm this applies to my exact ABS module before making any connections. My intention is to run two replacement wires from the ABS module connector to the front-left sensor to bypass any possible break in the original loom. I've stripped back the loom to see where it connects but looks like the ABS sensor wire disapears into the bulkhead so cant access it. Was thinking of going to the brown/black wires on the modual connector Could anyone confirm: Which two pins on the 47-pin ABS connector are for the front-left wheel-speed sensor? Which pin corresponds to the black wire and which to the brown wire? Is there an intermediate connector or known wiring failure point between the ABS module and front-left sensor on the Mk2 Scout? I've attached photographs of my actual ABS connector, including the terminal layout. Any help or a correct wiring diagram for this particular ABS module would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

Hi ive got a build up of black soot in the coolant tank and getting pressure in the system when taking off the coolant tank cap in the morning when engine is cold it still releases a heavy hiss of air escaping, also when turning ignition on or off get a gurgling sound from behind dashboard. Im hoping this is a broken egr cooler and not the head gasket so to check i want to bypass the egr cooler , the dpf and egr are already mapped out . As anybody on here bypassed the coolant pipes on the egr cooler on here before ? If so what size pipe do I need ? Is it possible to do from top of the engine or do you need to get underneath it ?

Hi Cairus, I'm currently converting my 2017 Škoda Kodiaq to the 2021–2022 facelift version. I have purchased both facelift LED headlights, but the original wiring connectors are not compatible. My headlight part numbers are: Left: 566 941 035 Right: 566 941 036 New control module: 992 941 572 CA Original control module: 7P5 941 591 AD I'm looking for a complete plug-and-play adapter harness for both headlights, without cutting the original vehicle wiring. Would you be able to manufacture these adapters, or help me identify the correct connectors and wiring? Could you also advise whether additional modules or coding would be required? I'm based in the UK. Please let me know if this is something you can help with and what the cost would be, including delivery. Many thanks.

I'll keep it brief. Whatever you want, make sure they give you it. I was sold a crash-damaged Leon by a main dealer, which is why I'm now in my Octavia. The VAQ service, plugs and air filter should have been done - especially as £19,250 is pretty expensive for a 40k Mk3 Octavia. Check if you can see a date on the battery - my guess is it's the original, which is knackered. If the VAQ hasn't been done, it's 11,000 miles overdue. Make sure you get in writing that they acknowledge this, in case of any future issues. The DSG isn't "due", but I would suggest you do it. The 381 interval is 80k, but most follow every single other DSG interval and do it at 40k.

What he said. Exact same thing. Just be aware they really won't come out once in.

Wait until you find out that the design on the Octavia means the R600 is missing a screw... ahhh VW.

Did this ever get resolved? I have a similar issue on my 2017 2.0 diesel. Last time it was filled - about 6m ago, it took three journeys to register the fill (and the distance remaining to go up). After that it put the engine management light on, with a P203 error - "Reductant Level Sensor Circuit Range/Performance". I cleared this code, but it's recurring. I recently re-filled the adblue, but this time it hasn't recognised the fill at all, so I'm on a countdown. I've tried some Wynn’s Crystal Clean & Protect in it, but no difference. I did read that sometimes the car gets confused about where the level really is (it did have a new battery some months back), but needs VCDS to reset this - but I'm thinking it's probably the sensor (= new tank), which will be an expensive job. Any thoughts or experience? Does anyone near Hereford have a VCDS tool?

Nope Booked it into a skoda dealer for either a simple adjustment ( as soon as I felt resistance turning the adjuster for some basic levelling (before I took it to a garage for proper setting ) I stopped maybe it just needs to turn more) or for a warranty claim against the new headlight that’s potentially faulty

Yes, I used the Powerflex PF3-1663K. I did not cut anything, but I will do it in the front next year, it is only necassery in front. But will only be an issue if you have to remove the plasticpanelsat some point. Front before: front with pad: rear before: rear with pad: and I used this OE spray in the hole before mounting them, and as lube to get them in.