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cheers buddy ! just trying to find out which solenoid it is on my car i think it could be 1 of 2 types, thanks kev

yea i have been told that, and that your car wont do a regen if there is a problem with the glow plugs. they do a bigger job than you realise. thanks!

Thanks to a random video that popped up on my instagram feed I’ve found that the put put sound on tickover when warm is a broken ?vacuum? hose. dfe09568-b13e-475d-8d07-4db86c95f743.mov Any pointers as to part number for this?

Many thanks. I still can't get the thing to open. Ho hum. I have tried pressing down hard as per illustration but the thing won't open. I dare no press and harder in case I damage something.

I contacted the dealer about this and they said they had moved it. I checked around the car again and it is on the rear offsife door wheel arch when you open the door. Seems a strange place to put it, than the usual places.Thanks for all the input on this :).

Be careful when on the look out for parts. Generally Skoda's, aside from the vRS models (and mostly the Octavia out of those), are a bit of an afterthought by tuners; it's more that parts made for other cars in the group are applicable as an afterthought. Also not that although they are all called MQB chassis, that's actually split into 4: MQB A0 - Polo/A1/Fabia MQB A1 - T-Roc/Seat Ateca/Octavia/Karowq MQB A2 - Skoda Kodiaq MQB B - Skoda Superb. Other cars in MQB-B are Passat or Arteon. Point being: some parts fit across the ranges, others don't. Generally, engine stuff will be like for like - EA211 which is yours will be the same; but stuff dictated by chassis size won't always - exhaust comes into this. Downpipe should be fine as the connection to the turbo will be the same (but its a bu66er to change because of the routing above the subframe). But the chassis are different so you may need a custom one or potentially can cobble together bits with extensions clamped up between, bearing in mind checking exhaust hangers and other bits are in the right place.

I've listed below the current five UK-specification Skoda Fabia Mk4 models, showing their possible road-wheel diameters (standard diameter first) SE Edition - 15" or 16" Design Edition - 16" or 17" SE L Edition - 16" or 17" or 18" Monte Carlo Edition - 17" or 18" 130 - 18" For the SE Edition model Skoda offers two spare-wheel options. If the car has 15"-diameter wheels, the spare-wheel option is referred to as being "full size" comprising a 15"-diameter steel wheel with a 185/65 R15 tyre (plus there's a tool-kit in a polystyrene insert that fits inside that wheel). If a SE Edition model has 16"-diameter wheels, the spare-wheel option refers to an "emergency" wheel that is suitable for Fabia Mk4 models that have road-wheels with a diameter of 16" or 17" or 18". This option comprises the same spare-wheel 'package' as the "full size" spare-wheel option for 15" wheels, except the steel wheel carries the labelling shown on this image It will be noticed that, although there is a 50mph/80kph maximum speed limitation, there is no stated limitation on maximum distance (as is normally found on the labelling on space-saver 'skinny' spare wheels). It's possible (as Carlston has said) that the tool-kit's polystyrene insert would sink deeper into the inner part of a wheel with a larger diameter than the standard 15", but there's the spare-wheel's hold-down mechanism beneath the polystyrene insert that might stop this happening. I don't think this is a show-stopper, as it should be easy enough to adjust the height of the insert so that it provided support to the floor of the boot - I'd be more concerned about whether a 16" wheel with a 195/55 R16 tyre would go under the edge of the boot I marked in red above. As RedSkoda2's 2026 Fabia has 16" wheels with 195/55 R16 tyres, if he has the necessary equipment to remove one of them, he would be able to confirm whether or not there's any problem putting that size of wheel/tyre combination in the car's spare-wheel well. My own 2023 Fabia Mk4 SE L has 16" alloy wheels with 195/55 R16 tyres and has the Skoda "emergency" spare-wheel option of a steel 15"wheel with a 185/65 R15 tyre. If I had to change a wheel, I'd hope to be able to temporarily store the 16" alloy wheel in the car's spare-wheel well, but it would not break my heart if that was not possible. When I bought the car, one of the first things I did was to remove the spare-wheel and confirm that it would fit OK on the car's front axle (ie. that it would not contact the brake disc/caliper). I could have easily checked at the same time that the 16" alloy wheel with 195/55 R16 tyre would fit in the spare-wheel well, but it never crossed my mind to do so. Before the Fabia, I owned a mild-hybrid 2021 Hyundai 120 SE Connect model that had 16"-diameter alloy wheels with 195/55 R16 tyres . The car had a small 48V lithium battery in the spare-wheel well under the luggage-compartment floor, so no space to carry any sort of spare-wheel there. I'd been caught out abroad a couple of times with punctures, so I wanted to carry a full-size spare-wheel in the i20. I bought a secondhand Hyundai alloy wheel that would fit the car. added exactly the same Michelin tyre as on the four road-wheels and bought a suitable jack. I then found that this wheel/tyre combination was too wide to fit flat in the boot (!!!) so I used to carry it in a storage-bag upright behind the front passenger seat. I only took the Hyundai abroad once, never needed to use the spare-wheel and sold the i20 not long after the trip.

If you message me with the car VIN I can look it up for you later.

P2B63 on the VAG stuff is "coolant pump 2, blocked" and it's often logged as sporadic. On the 1.0 TSI (EA211) pump 2 is the little electric charge air cooling pump (V188), not the main water pump. It runs a separate low-temperature circuit through the intercooler that's built into the inlet manifold and the turbo, and the ECU runs it in short bursts, including for a few minutes after you switch off, so you sometimes hear it whirring after shutdown. It sits at the front of the engine, low down under the inlet manifold on the oil separator housing. Best access is from underneath with the undertray off. Before buying one: 1. Clear the code and see how quickly it comes back. If it's sporadic and only now and then it can be the plug rather than the pump, so check the connector for green pins or a broken latch. 2. Listen for it running after a drive with the bonnet up. Silent every time points to the pump or its feed. 3. Check the coolant level and look for any leak around the pump and its hoses. Air in that circuit can make the pump labour and log as blocked. If it is the pump, it's one connector, two hose clips and a bolt. Clamp both hoses first. The catch is the circuit has to be bled properly afterwards, either with a vacuum filler or the guided bleed function on a decent diagnostic tool, otherwise it'll throw the code again. Part numbers for that pump are in the 04L 965 567 family with different suffixes, so check against your VIN before ordering rather than going off the engine code alone.

I've searched Aliexpress with each of these numbers, and nothing. The're probably the references of the individual bits rather than the complete part.

When the car was driving normally, or when the wheel was turned or moved while on a lift, it didn't make any noise. Sometimes it wouldn't even make a noise on the road; for instance, I could go on a 200 km trip and it wouldn't make a sound at all, while other times it would start making noise just ten kilometers into a 200 km journey. In other words, it wasn't a continuous sound. Additionally, the left wheel was removed multiple times, and the hub, bearing, etc., were checked numerous times; because the play was just a fraction of a millimeter, it wasn't very noticeable.

Even by telephone if you say to your mechanic "i listen a Yyyyn" sound when the car rolls in low-mid speed and stops when i brake he will answer "ball bearing". That's the first thing that will do,the sound is characteristic no matter if it's car or motorcycle and there is a specific (funny) slang expression: "this ate it's own bread" which means "his life is finished". Fitting a ball dearing it's a serious task because in case of mistake you need triple work-time to remove it plus the cost,in repair/machine-shops here No newbie employee is allowed to do it. He only carries from the self to the hands of the mechanic,mustn't be dropped down not even thrown to the bench carelessly.

i have an RPM Anti-drone Resonator Delete Pipe on mine. mine being the FWD 220, i got the version that is for the mk3 Octavia RS. combined with the IE downpipe, it has changed the exhaust note, but not crazy, as i still have the twin factory mufflers at the back. i might one day change the muffler back boxes....

actually its very likely possible, especially if ur car is "old" now. normally the VIN number has an expiry on the skoda update portal. u'll get updates up until a certain date, after which it will tell u no more.

As far as I can remember, I also had to delete some countries to make space and then just copied over all the files without the dropdown menus open

Hi Tim ( @kempus ), I've asked my AI assistant to investigate this because my own 2026 Superb L&K behaves differently. Here's what it found: AI ASSISTANT RESPONSE BEGINS HERE: The issue appears to be the distinction between the Individual driving profile and the Individual ambient lighting setting. When ambient lighting is set to MODE, the car automatically selects a colour according to the driving profile: Eco – Green Comfort – Blue Normal – White Sport – Red Individual – White So your experience is entirely consistent with the way Škoda has programmed the system. However, there's a solution! Rather than choosing MODE in the ambient lighting settings, select Individual within the ambient lighting menu itself. You can then choose your preferred colours and brightness independently of the driving profile. For example, we have selected red ambient lighting in our own Superb L&K, and it remains red regardless of whether I'm driving in Normal, Sport or Individual mode. I found confirmation of all this on the German Škoda Community forum. A Superb Mk4 L&K owner, posting as stbufraba, describes exactly how the system works, including the five MODE-linked colours and the ability to select colours independently. Here's the discussion (see post #9): https://www.skodacommunity.de/threads/ambientebeleuchtung-l-k-farbanzahl-erweiterung.151263/ In short, you don't need to put up with the bright white lighting when driving in Individual mode. Just separate the ambient lighting colour selection from the driving profile. Hopefully this resolves one of your frustrations! END OF AI RESPONSE I hope this helps. Best wishes, David.

Ah I see. Thankyou.

No, I meant you just go to the service menu to find the software train. Then enter it into the MiB helper website. This will then guide you to the right maps and software versions.

Possibly. Wouldn't surprise me if I entered it wrong. Didn't think mine would have updates via the unit as its a 2016 .

Unusual that your VIN wasn’t recognised. Are you certain you got it correct? Perhaps 0 and o mixed up? Also you can find/ source the map updates: Press and hold the MENU button for about 3 to 10 seconds, then select Software update or System information / Service mode to view the installed SW train string Enter it here https://mib-helper.com This will give you latest software version and latest maps. Also has links to how to videos for updates. From personal experience, make sure your battery is in good condition and fully charged, and charger connected when updating MiB firmware. The maps update will carry on in the background as and when the car is on so that’s less crucial!

Only joined the page yesterday, mainly to get an answer to this question, as when I put my VIN in. It wasn't recognised. Followed your link and its worked as it should. So once my sd card arrives. I will be giving this a go. I emailed my local main dealer. But they were unable to help. Cheers

I finally worked out how to get the red led's when in Sport mode by setting the ambient lighting to Mode to link it to the driving profile. But, why oh why when you are on indiviual driving profille (which I use a lot) does it not use your individual colours but the brightest blinding white which makes the whole feature completly useless IMHO. Any why can't they still make switching in and out of daylight saving automatic! I have a 2025 L & K with the new logo in the steering wheel. Just grumping Tim

Yes, I think the two descriptions could be related, although they are not exactly the same. In my case, when we removed the left front wheel, we noticed that the hub was sitting a few millimetres further out than on the right-hand side. The hub was not seated correctly in the wheel carrier, and this appeared to leave some play in the brake caliper assembly. We replaced the hub and bearing with new parts, making sure the new hub was seated correctly, just like on the right-hand side. The play disappeared, and after a long test drive, the noise has not returned so far. So, the second explanation is consistent with what I found, but I cannot say for certain whether the original problem was caused by the bearing being pressed incorrectly, a problem with the old hub, or another issue with the fitment. The important thing is that replacing the hub and bearing resolved the symptoms, at least for now. Thanks for comparing the two explanations!

Good news ! English are not my primary language (i am self-taught by books) but can you compare the 2 posts? Is the 2nd the solution as the 1st says?

Yes you can jump releases. There is an information screen you can bring up that shows the current release. You are suppose to do that to check before and after.