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Everyday a School day. I am pleased it is working and i am wrong.

I've adjusted the cable at the gearbox end. Happy days all is well. I have an automatic back. UP down, auto, paddles etc. OK I still need to retrieve my socket and extension but I can see it and it is out of harms way.

Has anybody remapped their 2.0 diesel vRS? Can find several posts for the 245 bhp petrol model, but none for this. Does this mean there isn’t really the option to do it?

Hi pab567 do you have the MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0253T software I can´t find it online anywhere thank you so much.

Also I was told by another technician here at home that you can purchase and graded flash file for our cars, can this be confirmed, and that the flash can be done remotely via a special data cable?? I thought I read that somewhere on the web, "said software offering a little over 20hp plus torque"

Has anybody remapped their 2.0 diesel vRS? Can find several posts for the 245 bhp petrol model, but none for this. Does this mean there isn’t really the option to do it?

Hi all, just saying hello from the south coast. Not a Skoda owner, but might be on the way to it as I'm looking to replace my current car and a Skoda could be on the cards! Hoping to get some technical advice and tips on what to look for.

Think he said as of 2020/21

Tell me something else sometime ago I emailed Skoda parts located in the Czech republic regarding a replacement ECU and was told that Skoda no longer makes replacement ecu's for our mk1's But would that also include climate control units?? So it would appear that their inventory retains certain parts and discontinued others, oh dear.🤔🤔

Hi can I have a quick question do you have by any chance the 253T software file I can´t find it anywhere online. Thank you so much.

Hello again there good sir, thanks in advance, even though there are a few few fabias that has been scrapped I'm doubtful about he working condition of the climate control, but I'll check, I'll also check out your link, I have someone in England who cones home yearly for their holiday 👍👍

Should be 312mm vented front discs, 300mm solid (non-vented) rear discs. Plenty of places claim to provide the right options while offering all different options so check that. Have you checked the quick checks? Feel the wheels after a drive (carefully) - extra hot (hence the care) or cold will be a sticking caliper (stuck on or stuck off respectively). Stuck on means it’s on a bit but won’t move more to brake. Check brake fluid level. Perhaps have them bled too to make sure there’s no air in the system.

@33q Stop. I posted last night on the phone and quickly. Leave the cable you are touching. The is for the pawl locking in PARK. The yellow plastic bit the release for when stuck in P. No way should that be to do with the issue you are having

I'd never even heard of them till now. Just had a quick read and I think I'd have still gone with the standard ones. I'm a gentle cruiser these days :)

Ever since I bought this car a year ago, I've been unimpressed with the braking. I find myself pressing the pedal far more than I'd expect - it doesn't give me a ton of confidence. The seller said they'd recently replaced the front discs - so I guess it was some really cheap stuff that went on due him knowing he was shortly selling the car? Not sure what sizes I'd need, but its the iV 1.4 petrol hybrid model, with 18" wheels. I guess these all have the same brake sizes. Can anyone recommend a good combination of discs and pads to swap in? FWIW, I don't do loads of miles, just a 10mile commute back and forth 3x per week - so performance is more important than durability for me. Thanks!

Did you get the sport version?

. Update for anyone who uses an EV energy tariff where the energy company control your charging - such as Octopus IOG. After I updated the car the first time, the API sync was broken. I didn't notice at first, but the Octopus app no longer recognised I'd plugged my car in, so it didn't try to find me a charging slot and the car just kept charging by itself. You need to remove the device (the car) from the Octopus App, and re-add it. And top tip, it asks for Mileage and VIN - get them from the app, the mileage on the app has to match, and it isn't always exactly the same as the mileage on the dashboard!

Hello. I have a problem with the AC flap motors. It has actually been going on for a while, but just now starting to actually feel the symptoms. My car is left hand drive. This means that it has some of the flap motors underneath the steering wheel. First off, I scanned by car with a generic OBD tool and it threw "B109071 Deforster flap motor, Actuator jammed" and "U112300 Databus error value received". Some googling led me to believe the motor in question was behind the glovebox. So I pulled that, opened it up, cleaned, assembled, all is working fine. (This seems to be the motor that adjust airflow output, everything works) Some back and fourth the error won't clear, and now I have "no basic setting" errors too. The climatronic I have is the one with a screen in the middle and two dials either side, auto function and 6/7 buttons below. The procedure to reset end stops should be auto, face air and AC. This initiated the procedure, but it won't clear the no basic error. Is the only way though VCDS or similar? Which brings me to my actual problem. The problem is the dual motor assembly under the steering wheel. I've gotten a look at it, I can confirm it is actually this thing that causes the problem. I can hear it, and I can see it. the motor does not stop moving. It goes back and fourth and makes clicking noises as it engages the gear back and fourth, back and fourth. I think it is probably the motor internal potentimeter that doesnt give a reliable reading, as mentioned many places. I managed to track down the service manual, and the first step is in another service manual. "Remove dash panel"... Remove dash panel, well sounds easy enough right? I look it up, and the dash ""panel"" is the entire dash fascia... I am not equipped to tackle a complete dash apart job, nor experienced enough. Its very ridiculous to do that just to get to some motors. Please tell me someone has done this before without taking everything to bits? The big problem is the metal bracket in front of the motor assembly.. I've attached a photo. You can see the white plastic gear/actuator which is the one that clicks as it engages I cannot find anything online about this on a Skoda FABIA that looks like mine. There is one on an Octavia, but it is an entirely different thing. Best regards, Chris

Set of Crossclimate 3's went on today. That'll make my IV a tank for the winter months, so fannying on with snow and ice like everyone else. Had them on my old Exeo, and I could literally drive around 4x4's that had got stuck.

They don't come as standard on the mk4, well maybe on the VRS model they do but not below as far as I'm aware (I have SE L which doesn't have one) They were an available option though I believe so some mk4 hatch's will have them

Hi, new to the forum, but I have been lurking for a while. My parents decided to get a new car when the Opel Corsa couldn't hold all our stuff for a driving holiday. I was about 4 or 5 then. The got a used Skoda Fabia estate MK1. They liked it so much that when Skoda announced MK2 and they didn't like the look of that they jumped on getting a new MK1. The only thing wrong with that was the colour. It was way too dark than what we actually wanted when ordering it. That eventually became the car I learned to drive on. In the midst of getting my lisence, my parents bought a new MK3 Fabia Estate. This is now my car, and I love it. Best regards, Chris

Agreed. The battery needs changing and I need to make sure I charge it. Amazingly the battery Seems well capable of starting the car.

The shift is definitely cable. You can see it move when pulling the shift lever. I have had a first go at adjusting it but the **** socket extension dropped in into somewhere….. we’ve all been there. Finished lunch so I’m back out to have another go. This time with the extensions taped together. I’m 99% certain I’ve found the problem but getting onto the bolt and pulling the cable etc presents a minor challenge!

If the shift is fly by wire as E13 says, a failing battery can definitely be the cause of many electrical gremlins. 11.6 volts on no load is below 20% SOC and is well below battery danger level!

Does the signal chime occur after the pairing process? I have never Edit Controller 4c On Cluster Software 608 tpms Reset dont work