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Finding the more modern the more electronic problems and dealer only fixes. I would stick with the one you have although 220k is fairly high. I suppose it depends what you would get for it if selling? Alasdair

Done that too.

Just came home 160 miles in torrential rain and was getting 2.8 miles a kWh. I stopped at 80 miles to charge a little as showing only 50 mile range. Charged more than I ment because I only wanted £3 of charge and ended with £12 as busy talking chargers and how bad they are. Left charger and no rain and average speed cameras and 3.2 miles a kWh. 75 miles range left, so money wasted from gabbing on.

Hello everyone, I have pretty weird issue with my bending (AFS) lights, they dont bend anymore 😁 I don't have any error code on dash, and when connecting VCDS I don't see any error messages for headlights either. I tried testing the ligths bending left and right with vcds and they work totally fine both of them bend left and right. I also run learning usin VCDS basic coding, and it said: learned. I also checked a 10Amp fuse, switched it with another 10Amp fuse for AFS and it still doesn't work. It feels like AFS is simply switched OFF, but googling arround I found out that there is no simple switch off/on for AFS. I did switch off cornering lights with fog ligthts using VCDS, and set washer headlights to off, but that shouldn't switch bending lights function? Did anyone had similar problem? Am I missing something, maybe I can do some sort of AFS reset or there is a setting to switch them on/off?

Yup. All working spot on.

And?... Does it work as expected? I hope it does, as a reward for all your efforts! 😉

Same here re locking nuts. There awful. Tyre service snapped the only adapter which looked like some kind of alloy not steel and it was a nightmare to get stud out. Local garage welded a nut on the end to remove it as dealer wasn't very helpful re replacement and I needed tyre changed as it had lost shape. I remove them if their fitted. Nice tread pattern on tyre. I do prefer the herring bone pattern. Works better in my opinion in wet. Alasdair

I have no fear of anyone wanting my 16's lol.

Lots of detail here about this problem : - All the parts looks similar. HTH. Thanks. AG Falco

I agree absolutely terrible design for when it fails. It's like they have managed to shoe horn the actuator into the most inaccessible space. In my case the electrical plug was facing upwards and the assembly right up against the bulkhead.

My old 1.9tdi and newer 1.6tdi are 105hp which is less than the 1.0tsi. Torque on my diesels is 250NM which is higher than the 200NM of the 1.0tsi but reckon as long as your not towing you wouldn't notice. Alasdair

Thanks for the response. The car doesn't have a sunroof, so we can rule that out. Need to try to lift/remove carpets to get the underlay out, which holds water like a sponge apparently. Haven't worked out how to do that yet.

Superb still has a good sized tank ie 66 litres, and has not suffered so much of the trend of smaller fuel tanks on B and C segment cars. Cars was modified with non standard tyres ie more energy efficient ones, had the Greenline smooth underfloor, something EVs have as fairly standard now and who knows what else. Probably cooled fuel to reduce volume ie put in a fridge before the run and the absolutely brimmed like I would do when I use to get my Tescos 5p /8p off tokens. Still and impressive mileage and especially as set on roads and not track like when an RAF team near doubled the miles travelled compared to WLTP ie over 480 miles compared to 250 miles WLTP but that was done at Thruxton and average speed was 20 mph not not really practical and therefore must have taken nearly 2 days, must have been a lot of fun, not. Couple of other points. Diesel is 2.25 Euros per litre so fuel tank would cost about 150 Euros to fill ie about £130 so not cheap compared to ICE home or destination charging costs or even some public charging costs at the right times. That 66 litres of diesel 2.5 GJ of energy and burning it would produced 177 kgs of CO2 being added to the Earth's atmosphere. Energy per mile would be 1.42 MJ per mile, normal driving and normal car would be around 3 MJ per mile. An EV would typically average about 0.9 MJ per mile so way more efficient than even the most extreme effort to be efficient. EVs are at least twice as efficient as even the most extreme ICE effort, on average more like 3 to 4 time more efficient. Running costs similarly so.

Hi, welcome to the forum. There are lots of posts over the years about water ingress so worth doing some searches. And if you resolve the problem it is always helpful to post what you found and how you cured it as it may help others. I'm not an expert so what follows is what I've picked up from other members over the years, If you have a sun roof don't rule that out. There are a lot of posts on this forum and elsewhere about the chassis that holds the sun roof cracking and that allows water to drain into the car - we did have extremely heavy rain recently. There are suggestions of d-i-y fixes using Capt Tolley's sealant but with variable success and no indication of whether it gives a permanent fix or just a temporary breathing space. On older cars the consensus was moving to sealing the sunroof so it can't open but at least gives a waterproof glass lid that lets the sun in. If you don't have a sunroof you can breathe a sigh of relief as replacements are wallet straining. From what you describe I'd be thinking along your lines - someone's interfered with the aircon and immediately after that you have a problem. Bit gross I know but did you sniff/taste to see whether the liquid in the well was likely to be water or something containing chemical compounds? It might have helped reduce down the options of what the problem could be. As you've been able to partially dry the carpets unfortunately that's not an option now but if the water keeps coming in worth thinking about. On the cars with sunroofs there are four drain tubes that run down the corners of the car. I'm not sure if they are there on cars without sunroofs but someone may be able to help with that. There have in the past been reports of these getting blocked and water getting into the car. From memory a common suggestion was to carefully thread a long thin cable from the accessible outlet holes at the bottom up the tubes to dislodge any debris. I say carefully as you don't want to puncture a tube part of the way up and make matters worse. (Just a though but these days you can buy endoscopes for a few pounds on eBay; don't bother with the ones that use your smartphone, they are usually rubbish. Possibly they are narrow enough to fit in the tube and feed up and see if there is an obstruction. The tubes are, I think, around 2m long so you'd need a "snake" at least that and maybe a bit more. If it fits not only would it let you see if there is an obstruction but also the head is unlikely to snag the rubber of the hose. There is an irony here - I had one with a 5m snake and found it clumsy to use so recently gave it to a charity shop when I bought one with a more manageable 1m "snake". I hope i don't live to regret it). Sorry I can't be more help but unfortunately most of the really clever guys that knew their Yetis inside out have moved onto new marques and models taking their expertise with them but you might be lucky because occasional one or two look into the forum and post replies. Good luck.

Hey! Currently doing subwoofer wiring and I was wondering, where would be the best place to put my subwoofer remote wire. I would prefer to keep it in the boot of the car. If you guys have any experience, let me know.

When relative engine power is considered, it was pretty common in the past for a private taxi to have a 1.8 or a 2 litre NA engine - a modern 1.0TSI matches that at lower RPM !

Our local taxis drive a lot of octavias. Reckon every second one is one. Last one I was in was a 1.0tsi and taxi driver said it was excellent. I too was really surprised when he said it was only a 1.0 litre. It felt like my 1.6tdi Alasdair

Could be a broken rear spring if it sounds metalic/clacky. Had one that the pig tail broke off an was bouncing around in bottom of swing arm on my octavia. It was difficult to see but worth a check. Not sure if the fabia mk4 has rear drop links as well. If worn they will give a similar clack clack sound. On the Octavia rear spring is easy to do. Alasdair

I have seen the flap actuator and it is fairly low down, behind the lower glovebox, close to the LH side of the car. It seems that mine still works, but it makes a light tapping noise when I first start the car, for about 20 secs and a much louder tapping when recirculation is selected, again for 20 secs. I've got used to it. I would like to fix it and came to the conclusion that the easiest approach would be to use a Dremel to cut out a section at the rear of the lower glovebox, but I never seem to get round to attempting it, partly due to having 3 other old cars, all requiring attention! The Skoda is used intermittently. If I do the job, I'll then replace the cut out section by attaching a flange to the edge of it, so that it can be screwed or maybe clipped back in. With the lid closed, it won't show. I'll post again if I get it done. It's a silly design!

Hi, new here. Skoda Yeti 2014 2.0 diesel (170bhp) 4wd. In the last few days I have noticed small amounts of water on top of the rubber floor mats, front and rear O/S. It was noticed first in the rear footwell but yesterday it was very evident in the drivers footwell. Warm fine day, so used the air con and noticed the water amount had increased. When we got home I removed the rubber mats and the carpets were extremely wet. We had to place old towels on the floor, stand on them (water rising visibly under pressure), wring out towels (soaking wet) and repeat many times until too tired to continue - will resume today. Thoughts were, blocked drainage under windscreen (will check) but more likely air con drainage issue, particularly as using the air con made the problem noticeably worse. I drove the car into the garage and turned the air con on for 3 or 4 minutes - no sign of any water dripping onto the floor. Recent events that may be relevant:- had an air con check at Kwik Fit several weeks ago and we noticed the mechanic jump, exclaim, accompanied by loud hiss of escaping gas. they said the pressure was OK and we left but immediately noticed the air con was noisy. Returned and they reluctantly agreed all wasn't right and re-gassed free of charge. Could the drain tube have been damaged? Also, a couple of weeks ago the Garage removed the engine tray to fix a leaking oil filter, could they have kinked/trapped the air con drain tube? Sorry it's a long post, will appreciate any advice.

Even with the advances in engines these days I think you'll find that if you ever travel fully loaded with passengers and luggage the car will struggle. A car may appear nippy when it's just yourself driving (the default situation for many cars) but if you have the opportunity, try a test drive "fully loaded" to see how suitable a workhorse it may be.

Upgrade Carplay and retain the 6CD system（RCD510）

43 for sale in FM Hutchings auction on 12/9/26

Would also be interested to hear from any new/recent owners of any Elroq 85 if they have the 84kwh battery (think that is now standard on MY27 versions?) and if they ended up with crappy I mean not so good Giti branded tyres?

I have just ventured into this and through a voyage of discovery, have found you can take the top glove box out without too much trouble. Unfortunately it achieves nothing, no access to the offending item. I have a 2010 mk2 Skoda Fabia and the only way to access the actuator, is by removing the whole dash. The glove box in my car is integral to the dash. The flap motor in my case, is under the passenger air bag, in the top left corner. There is little information about the task, I now know why.