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Front seat repairs are well underway. Yes that is mould and horsehair in the seat backs !!

No. The above does NOT correspond to me. I've been part of many forums for many years, and you are by far the rudest poster I have ever come across. Please, do not waste my time any more by calling me all the names under the sun, I have more than shown you (if you cared to listen) that I am informed and experienced in what you asked. And I politely and reasonably answered your question from direct and relevant experience and knowledge. In fact, I'm now pretty sure you are what is known as a Troll. Your presence here is not to obtain information and advice about a problem you had, but to irritate and upset members of a community that tries to help others. If you are what you say, good luck in getting help that you claim you didn't need. If you are who you appear, good luck in your trolling. Bye!

You've been robbed - I paid 1.23 yesterday for shell 99 fuel And now im going to go out and use some if it...…. quickly

First prototypes are being driven by the mags. This is CAR mags take and Autocar have done one too (I'm just posting the CAR one as it's a bit early to read too much into it, I reckon) https://www.carmagazine.co.uk/car-reviews/bmw/m3/ It has been stated that the new car is significantly bigger than the current one. This is good news, as it means I won't hanker after a car I can't afford anyway Stop making cars bigger!!!

Here in Germany they actually have tiny little number plates and they're registered with the same state department as cars (registered as a vehicle). It's a legal requirement to have insurance. But they're exempt from TÜV (MOT). So the UK needs to try and do something similar.

So as I mentioned earlier, my car went in for a Racingline OEM stage one remap today. Bloody hell is it now fast! The guy said he started with an extremely healthy engine according to the first run on the dyno. As usual with these engines they usually show better bhp and torque than Skoda quote as standard, as was the case with mine. With the stage one map put in, it then showed 329bhp with 499nm of torque. It was running on Tesco 99ron at the time. It still has the rubbish Pirelli Zero tyres on from new, so I have booked it into another garage for 2 new Michelin PS4S this Thursday. No good having the power if you can't put it down. Very very impressed with the end result after my 30mile drive home. I did say to the guy, have you got a very kind dyno, as the power and torque were above Racingline quoted figures. He said the one they use cost £120k and is very accurate. One day perhaps I will get it on a dyno somewhere else to see what comes up. Never mind the figures though, I LOVE IT. Now I just have to remember the classic line from the film Spiderman, "with power comes responsibility".

This is a guide on how to change the Skoda Rapid Swing headunit with the RCD 330 +, including links and pictures. This is a very simple and straight forward plug and play process but will hopefully help those make up their minds about making the swap/change. And help those who are not as technically astute. Purchasing a RCD 330 or RCD 330 + Before I go into the how to guide, here are a few details to consider before purchasing the RCD 330 + and where you can purchase them from. So I bought mine from Aliexpress and used a seller called Aidu Auto Technology Co., LTD (RCD 330 + Green Backlight LINK) Total cost including shipping - £201.29 (May 2020) There are others available on the store for less but these are the early models and don't include the green backlight to match in with the rest of the Skoda interior. Beware of customs duty! If your item is sent via Exped delivery such as TNT or DHL, then they will likely hand the item over to customs and will request proof of purchase value for tax purposes. Luckily i didn't have to pay anything but its just something to be aware of. However if you use the standard delivery method this is less likely to be intercepted by the customs team. (I'm not telling your to avoid paying any tax or customs that is rightfully owed by you) You will also need a Fascias for the new unit. Here are a few links depending on how much you want to spend but they range from £9.60 to £40.00. https://audiotechdirect.com/carav-11-455-rns-shape-2-din-fascia-for-skoda-rapid-2013-on/ Ebay Aliexpress Things to consider DAB - The RCD 330(+) are not DAB ready but you can get around this by downloading an app on your phone called "RadioPlayer". However clearly this will only work in areas with good signal and will depend on your phone contracts mobile data limit. You will also need to have your phone plugged in for AppleCarplay or mirrorlink to work. Navigation - This will only work whilst your phone is plugged in via either the iPhone lightening cable or android equivalent. Again this will use your mobile data initially and to provide you with real time traffic reports via maps. This will only be a problem if you end your journey in an area with no signal and require a new route to be planned. RCD 330 or 330 + - There isn't much difference in performance but if you want the full OEM look then paying a little bit extra to have the green backlight is something to consider. Plug & Play - If you're swapping the standard swing radio with ISO harness connector then you will have no trouble fitting this item. It literally plugs in and is ready to go, much less hassle then having to pay various amounts for different manufactures harness and adapters. This unit may fit other models which use the standard ISO harness but functionality maybe affected so please do your research first. (If you don't know what the ISO connector looks like, scroll down and look at the images and see if they match up) Size Comparison - How to Guide What you need: T20 Torx bit/socket/screwdriver Trim Pry Kit or just your hands (Use a screwdriver at your own risk and carefully) Step One Remove the fascia trim. Do this by prying the trim from the bottom first (1) and then both sides (2), finishing at the top(3). Step Two With the fascia now removed, you should be able to see the four torx screws holding the unit in, in each corner. You need to remove these, remember lefty loosey, righty tighty. Step Three Keep all the screws in a safe place as you'll need them to refit the new unit. With all the screws removed, you will now be able to pull the unit out of the dashboard. It may take a little bit of force and the trim pry tools are especially handy here if you have sausage fingers like me. I put the gear stick into 3rd gear and this allowed me to rest the unit before disconnecting the connections at the rear. Be careful to ensure the unit does not drop as this may damaged the connectors at the rear and/ or damage the unit if you wish to keep it or sell it. Step Four Look to the back of the unit and you will now see the ISO connector and aerial connection. These both need to be removed, so first the aerial: On the white aerial connector you'll see there is a opaque tab that is also circled in red. This needs to be pushed up, and then pressed inwards to release it from the unit. Step Five Remove the ISO Connector. Simply lift the locking lever and this will draw the connector out. Step Six Remove the original headunit out from the dashboard and place to one side. You should now have something like this. Step Seven Fit the Aerial adapter to the original aerial cable. Ensure the clip circled in red is lined up with the side with the tab. Push together and then push the tab down to lock together. Step Eight Fit the new Aerial cable to the RCD 330 or RCD 330+ unit by pushing it firmly onto the connector until it clicks in place. Step Nine Fit the ISO Connector to the RCD 330 or RCD 330+ unit The connector will only fit on one way but have a look to make sure all the pins on the plug line up with the pins on the unit. Press into place and use the locking lever to help the connector into place, ensuring the locking lever is fully down. Step 10 Fit the RCD 330 (+) into the hole in the dashboard, ensuring the four screw holes all line up. Fit the four screws a few turns each at first. This will give you some wiggle room to allow all four screws to be fitted easily. Once all in place, they can then be tightened just enough so they secure the unit in place. Don't over tighten them! Step Eleven With the unit now in place, turn the unit ON and check all the functions work as they should. If you find any problems with the unit, now is the time to rectify this with the seller. Step Twelve If you're happy the the unit is 100% working the final step is to fit the fascia which i've included links to. Put the fascia in place and gently push home all round until you hear all the clips click into place and the fascia is secure.

I'm pretty sure he means - 'after sales, towing will be your problem.' That is to say that the caravan dealer is interested in selling you the caravan and not much more after that. HTH

Reading all the responses to your original question, you've got one hell of a problem pal. People who come on this forum are generally trying to be helpful. Your attitude stinks, and I wouldn't trust you with a bicycle, let alone a car! Do one!

New wheels landed today. Superb Iv Se Tech estate. Replaces my superb sport line - glad to be rid the ride and wheels where awful on the roads up here.

Autoleads PC5-93 worked OK for me John

For some unfathomable reason the ECU has to detect a cranking speed over a certain threshold when the engine is hot but not cold when as you know it will start in 1/4 revolution barely cranking. Battery & starter condition also the crank sensor can all conspire against the ECU believing the engine is rotating fast enough, attention to one or all of them usually cures the problem but there is a software upgrade I believe to remove the stupid feature otherwise you will need to fit a N/C momentary pushbutton in the CTS line to fool the engine that its cold, although it will probably need a shunt resistor across the contacts to avoid fault codes. It really is a stupid feature and I cannot see the logic behind it. Editted, if you muck around with shunt resistor values till you find one that does the trick you could make a slick and undetectable system using a relay triggered by the solenoid feed when cranking.

Went for another, faster test drive and all was well. The braking improvement is stark. I must search out the thread I started about this car's brake deterioration, to see how long ago it was. Gut feeling is it may have been two or more years of 'half assed servo'.

Just 2 set the Record straight...It was in my Second post that all I needed was the Right Tools Easy 2 sort.. All that was forth coming From all other Members who commented apart from 2 which were Helpful...Was Snipping Sarcastic and very Moronic Stupid comments about any thing other than the Original Post about who I should considered was correct..So 4 all the Parasitic Single Celled Muppet's who have a Massive Void in there own Personal lives which makes them want 2 throw Rocks at any thing They don't Understand... If the above Fits U perfectly Pls don't Respond Comment or Bother throwing Rocks Stones Etc... Just Please don't waste my time or your own life Skills.. So little as they R...Have a Nice Years And give Yourself's a well needed Hug.. By Your Self's...

George, Enjoy! Ongoing review awaited with baited breath.

I used a very reputable map company, Racingline. On the first dyno run it showed a fair bit above 230bhp, as is very often the case with these TSI engines. Once mapped it achieved 329bhp with 499nm of torque. It's now a bloomin beast. Getting 2 new Michelin PS4S better grip tyres to fit on the front tomorrow, as my car is still on it's original tyres, Pirelli Zeros. They still have a good 4mm of tread, but as expected can't handle the extra power. I am with LV insurance and they only charged me £16 for the last 7 months I have left on the policy. So around £30 per year extra for the remap, not too bad at all.

@vrskeith I have one just now in orange. Loaned for a week and i am treating it with great care. Covered over 630 miles with it on 3 full to 100% charges and one to 80% and it has over 150 mile range just now. All charges have been free.

You are welcome

That's what I like to hear.

Thanks I acknowledge that in that price bracket there are many more 245s to choose from, trouble is, it's not my price bracket 🙂 My max is hovering round the 17k mark and that's a little more challenging. It's also especially frustrating when you investigate further and look up insurance quotes by registration only to be told that the car your interested in is worth many thousands of pound less in value than it is being advertised for sale..... not a few pounds less but many thousands less. Further investigation has WBAC telling you the same. Now I acknowledge that a dealership needs to make some profit but we're talking 3 to 4 and 5k in some instances and when you see that cars displayed... their condition belies the value being asked in most all cases.

You pays your money and you takes your chances. Look at it this way, if you don't change the cambelt and it breaks requiring a £5 repair, will you have the money and be happy with your gamble? If so go for it, if not, then change the cambelt!

Thanks

Ah well I phoned up the man at VAG a couple of years ago:- Why does VAG advise 5 years when other manufacturers talk of 60k miles or even more in some cases? VAG man: "Well it is a "recommemdation" and not mandatory, some ignorant people treat their cars quite badly and VAG have them in mind when making this recommendation." Me:- I only do 4/5k miles per annum and am not a boy racer at my age so how about 7 years? "You must understand that it is your risk, you will probably be OK with that but I can't officially give you a guarantee".

But it'll be ugly, so so ugly. Plus am I wrong in thinking anything under 500hp just isn't worth it these days 😁

All pls check your PMs. Yes, every SKODA dealer should be able to activate SmartLink. If you cannot have it managed pls contact me on PM.

https://www.carthrottle.com/post/this-is-the-ineos-grenadier-defender-successor/ The Ineos looks more Defender than the defender. I quite like it. But building a car is hard, this will probably be sh0ite for a few generations till they learn how to build a car, just like Tesla is having to learn.

Few little updates. Garage cabinet I sent the seats to Kohl Rod and Custom because the foam was turning to powder and triggering my partner's asthma!

You have to write in English You have to tell us exactly what type of Felicia you have

Good grief... they’ve taken the grill styling cues from a ‘53 Buick!

While the Lane Assist function may certainly be of use in certain settings (motorways perhaps?), for town and country driving, I've quickly come to harbour reservations. Since Covid has resulted in an explosion of cyclists upon country lanes, I've grown to appreciate that my recently delivered Kamiq appears to possess a certain disdain towards them. Upon attempting to provide the many recreational wannabe 'Sir Bradleys' with a wide berth, thus, resulting in nearing of/crossing the white lines in centre, the steering wheel attempts to pull the vehicle directly into their path as I pass. Granted, as many recreational cyclists possess 'all the gear but no idea', proceeding to cycle 4-5ft from the kerb/grass verge, while their distinct lack of road sense does annoy me, I wouldn't wish to see them come to harm during incredibly difficult times. Having wrestled with the Lane Assist function on numerous occasions since taking delivery of my Kamiq, as my street turns on to a country lane with a 40mph speed limit, I've begun to disable the function via the touchscreen. However, it is a shame that the infotainment system automatically re-activates the function upon re-starting of the engine. Skoda really ought to issue an update that allows the driver far greater autonomy. Intelligent they may be, 21st Century vehicles still cannot predict where they're going to be driven after turning the key or pressing the start/stop button.

Hey Guys and Gals! New to the forum, my first post in fact! been a long time lurker tbh 🕷️ My pride and joy that I recently have finished my first phase of mods on; 1.2TSi 110 6 speed manual Forge Induction kit with Black hoses Forge Blow-off valve with Black Hoses Stance + ultra coilovers Wound down to the last threads so 100mm front, 75mm rear drop with Stance+ shortened drop links and New track rod ends for good measure. 📏 Ebay armrest Callipers have 3 coats of very high temperature silver paint Power flow full stainless steel cat-back system Local stage 1 remap but not run on dyno, so my guess is around 150bhp All the mods were undertaken by me on my driveway bar the exhaust and map. cheers.

SashaGrace, thank you, I hope the attached is okay, I struggled a bit because I could not see how to email it from OBDEleven on the iPad so ended up using my phone. Many thanks history.txt

Sadly as good as the waterproof camera could take and as near the shore as i could get to.

Definitely get the cambelt and water pump changed at 5 years unless you like to gamble on £5k for a new engine! Brake fluid recommend change every 2-3 years and it's an age thing not related to mileage. Fluid is hygroscopic and absorbs water from atmosphere to the detriment of braking components and performance of the fluid. Not an expensive job so worth doing for peace of mind.

I have the common or garden version in the Fabia, which is my school car (Driving tuition) In my Yaris, I have a K&N panel filter, which is supposedly good for 100,000 miles. I think it could do with a clean and an oiling now so I will get round to doing it sometime soon but as it is running fine, I am in no hurry. I did have a little foulage of the MAF sensor after fitting but cleaned it and all was well and remained so. As that car is driven mainly by my daughter, I was not worried about the cleaning process taking the car off the road for the day but if I was tempted to fit one to the Fabia, I would almost certainly keep the older paper filter, just to pop back in whilst cleaning the K&N. As you said though, for around £7, just to pop a new one in is much easier.

Dash cam hard wired in Lastest Columbus software update done Dog guard and bootliner swapped over from 2016 SE Business Est New bumper protector fitted from SuperSkoda😎

To be accurate the problem isn't in the gearbox, it's in the switch mechanism inside the cabin where the gear selector lever is.

I have had my 1.4 AWD for 2.5 yrs. love the car but originally got it to tow a slightly larger caravan than we had at the time, but then decided we weren't going to bother with another van so I never even got a tow bar fitted. I find it a nice car to drive and very practical with the option to take all the rear seats out. (Which can be done on minutes) I came from diesels but because of only doing low mileage and reported "dpf" problems decided to go back to petrol. I find the 1.4 engine to be a real peach, almost the same torque characteristics of a diesel, and virtually the same economy! I am able to average about 44mpg, I am not a particularly quick driver and mainly drive on rural roads. Although our sunroof has not leaked I got a bit concerned reading all the reports so I asked our local indy Skoda specialist for his opinion as he sells and maintains quite a few! Bottom line is he takes out the interior and glues all the drain pipes in place so they can't come loose or leak, reckons he has never had one he has sold leak? Therefor I got him to do mine for me and he did find that one of the drain pipes had been "pinched" by the cable tie that secures it, (ie reduces the area of the pipe). He replaced it for me for with a new one for about about £10. I also got our local indy dealer to drain and refill the Haldex at the last service as it is not something main dealers will do as part of a standard service. At the time I purchased it (it was a dealer car that I purchased at 2 yrs old with 7K on the clock), it was the only car I wanted and I thought I would be looking for weeks as they are fairly rare, but I called around a few dealers to get them to put me on their "waiting list", and one of the dealers actually had this one in stock. Don't really need an AWD 1.4 now and quite fancy an auto so I had thought about changing it for a later 1.2 dsg, (used to all the toys now so it would need to be an SEL Drive, and they are a bit rare as well!) ..good luck with your search....

NO!! Do NOT let the engine run with the alternator not connected to the battery!! That risks damaging the alternator.

Aussie Karoq here in Melbourne with what we call a triple pack. Loving it so far, but I knew that I would as I had an early TDi Yeti over here as well. Pretty amazed with the 54 mpg return on the first few days of driving as well. The dogs love it too - Sarbai photobombing on one of the pictures 😆

How can a person called Alex misspell Axle?

Made the decision on tyres and just ordered 2 via Black circles web site. I have gone with the Mitchelin PS4S.

Gave the new car a wash and polish today. My process is probably fairly simple in comparison to others and all done by hand (although I do have a basic halfords machine polisher but the paint is in pretty good shape). Powerwash 1x wash with Micro fibre wash mitt Rinse 1x wash with Clay wash mitt Rinse Dry Autoglym Paint Restorer Poorboys Black Hole Meguiars tech wax 2.0 Autoglym bumper/trim gel Turtle wax window polish IMG_20200627_110400 by Philip Embleton, auf Flickr IMG_20200627_104159 by Philip Embleton, auf Flickr

I have made a decision at last. Got the car booked in this Tuesday at VW Group Specialists Swindon for the Racingline Stage One remap, done on their rolling road. Will probably then have to get 2 new front tyres. The standard Pirelli P Zeros you get from new still have 4mm of tread on them, but they are not great for grip when getting your foot down. They will be even worse with the extra power after Tuesday. Have read some good reports on the Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric 5, as well as the Michelin Pilot Sport 4 S.

Massive thanks to Pab567 for all his help getting me up and running again 😎 Mib2 and upgraded screen. I now have music again! Skoda wanted £1300 to replace the old MIB1 unit.