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You (and the rest of us) know your (and Moley's) apparent popularity is mostly down to you reliably liking each other's relentless, very purposeful replies to the First Word thread. No real popularity. Glad you're helping to save the planet with a car more suited to you though.

Xman - Shy you guys obviously spend a lot of time on here have you thought about maybe supporting the forum with a Freedom Membership ?

Just a quick update. The car already had a decent enough exhaust system on when I got it. The trouble is, the backbox was massive and knocked against the NSR spring. This was really annoying and my OCD couldn't handle it any longer. I took the car to my local exhaust specialist who's worked on a few of my cars beforehand. He replaced the exhaust from the cat back as it's a 200CEL cat anyway and here's the new system. As you can see, there's a twin exit tip, a much smaller back box and there's no more knocking against the rear suspension. The car sounds a lot better now and seems to spool up more freely than before. I was thinking that there might be an issue with the rear O2 sensor as my fuel consumption has increased considerably, but then the Mrs pointed out I was probably just enjoying myself a bit too much..... I could have lived with the old system in theory, but I'm glad I haven't and now I can move onto other things that need doing.

Great thread, thanks bigadel. Not tried it yet but I'm going to do this. I have some experience of detecting a speed camera earlier in the year. I used the much slower 'wait for the letter and attend an online speed awareness course' method, your method is much better IMO.

This is all well and good, But I was out at the weekend and managed to average 47 miles to a banana.

Maybe that should read, "If only I'd followed the Briskoda Guidelines then there wouldn't have been a need for any infractions being issued." Anyway, as I mentioned earlier it's best if you keep your MPG figures to the thread which YOU re-opened yesterday.

Thanks for info. Was just reading through your detailed guide. Mine is currently completely standard but do have plans for it in the near future.

Pretty soon he will have it mapped to 273.9 bhp

Is this a contest? Or is it like the First Word (anti dementia) thread? Will you run a leaderboard? (With you at the top naturally) Whats the prize?

Put a wheel bolt through a hole on the standard alloy and measure how much thread comes through the back. Do the same for a new wheel. If they are about the same, it's probably fine. If it's much shorter on the new wheel, get some longer bolts

Hi, I'm happy; happy with our Yeti and happy now I can relax for another five years regarding the battery; At almost £300 for a new battery and if it expires after five years then £60 per year just for the battery; modern cars are expensive and becoming worse year on year with all the modern electronics and technology. Excellent at DMK Wakefield this morning; appointment at 9:30 and estimated job done time 11:00; yes fully sorted at 11:00 and with a free courtesy car wash also I requested the emissions to be checked due to the warning light showing the little engine on the dash last Friday which cleared on its own. Everything is fine though and if the warning appears again it's possibly just a relay fault; checked free of charge. I took along a bottle of drinking water and my ipod also because of this battery problem I took along the Yeti owners manual; who knows the adblue fluid needs replacing every four years? My eyes started to glaze because I couldn't make sense of all the infotainment information; I never use the infotainment and don't even use a mobile phone unless I absolutely have to; I've only just sussed out how to send and receive text messages on my wife's new mobile phone; my wife has the phone for emergencies and still doesn't understand how to use it. We don't wander around with a mobile phone welded to our ear and we have zero interest in all the latest expensive must have gadgets; I recently bought the ipod but only so that I could load it with favourite 60,s MP3 songs and hook it up to the mini hi-fi system in the workshop. Our dream car would be a diesel Yeti stripped of all its electronics apart from essentials but I can dream on. I'm 73 and want to do something useful not spending my days pressing buttons; I press enough buttons here on my keyboard which is more than enough for me; OK I'm a dinosaur and happy being one. Well done DMK Wakefield. Kind regards, Colin.

That's been the case for several years with "LED rear lights" - it makes absolutely no sense to me either, if they're advertised as "LED rear lights" then IMHO anything other than 100% LED "bulbs" is a misrepresentation.

Yep, kept the original springs as I wanted to keep the ride hight OEM. As far as I'm aware the Koni shocks are not designed to work with other springs, only the OEM springs. Before, the car would lean too much in the corners, over speed bumps it would continue to bounce, on country roads you couldn't really push on as much as you wanted to as the car bounced all over the place, and sometimes bumps in the road at 40mph+ would cause a really loud BANG as the shocks bottomed out. I fitted the Koni's and that's all gone. My first test after I collected the car was a blast down a country road and I couldn't believe the transformation. Generally day to day driving doesn't feel a great deal different, possibly slightly firmer but there isn't much is it. The key thing the FSD's fix is the rebound on the suspension which is what I gather caused all the problems initially. The shocks also firm up when cornering as well to reduce body role and help with weight transfer when accelerating and breaking. If they did a VRS model of the Superb, I would imagine it would drive something like it does with FSDs. Some people have fitted stiffer springs or a rear anti-roll bar, which is cheaper, but for me they don't get rid of the problem, just mask/hide it. The problem is that damping on the OEM shocks are terrible. I've kept my original shocks, changed them at about 15,000 mile. At least then I can put them back on when I get rid of the car if I need to, or pass them onto the next owner.

I was in Ohakune this weekend so popped over to Smash Palace for a little pick over the Coupes they have there. Got a nice condition dash surround and some spare switches. I went there about 3 years ago and pulled quite a few parts off the white Coupe Quattro but didn't have enough cash for everything. They put a pair of Frankani tail lights aside for me and I planned to collect them soon after. When I called back they couldn't find the lights, they were somewhere upstairs, which as you can see from the photos is a rather packed Aladdin's cave of car parts. I called a year or so later and had a look myself, no luck, so I assumed they had been sold to someone. This time I thought I'd have one more look, and after 15 minutes going over every shelf with my phone torch, right at the end I spotted them on the floor! Absolute score, and they're better than the ones I have, except for a hairline crack on the side of one. But I am very pleased!

Well crail again today, annoyed that the last 2 days i went i ran exactly the same time of 14.010 i was determined to get into the 13's so again car was stripped out, meth filled up and also spoke to jeff at trackstuff for some VP racing Race diesel. Weirdly enough fuel economy actually interested using race fuel Cold day so no temp in the ground so again struggled with wheel spin. race 1 against polo gti Race 2 against a friends swift, i said i'd give him a head start to the 60ft Race 3 against a Fabia vRS Race 4 against an Ibiza Cupra Race 5 against a friends stage 1 mapped 3 Litre A5 TDI Quattro Race 6 was a bye run, thought i'd try a 2nd gear launch and it just bogged and lost all boost as you can see in the logs Race 7 against a BMW M5, know i was going to get beat but launching it noticed he had a worse one than me and was just in a cloud of tyre smoke, thought i could maybe get a gap on him and he might not be able to run me down but went into 2nd and had absolutely nothing, almost like it was in limp mode and you can see from the curve on the graph what i was like compared to how sharp a normal run is, sadly he caught me. race 8 against a R32 GTR Race 9 MK5 Golf GTi Race 10 Mk7 Stage 3 Golf GTi Best races were against this Evo X had 2 against him Missed 2nd in this race and tried to run him down

Hi Shugmo Its an original part 5E0 713 146 D I bought it with some other parts from skoda-parts.com for around €18 with €8 delivery. It’s only a two minute job, put the lever in drive for more space pull the lock button back and with a thin piece of plastic/ screwdriver inserted in the front flick it out (the go round into the back seats and retrieve it :-) )

Ah, the reference to the 100E and vacuum wipers brought back fond memories. A mate had one and in pouring rain we had to negotiate in an upwards direction a long and steep hill. The higher we got the slower the car got and with it the wiper speed (I think there were two - barely moving and not moving at all) and towards the top there was a real risk we would be reduced to a man walking in front with a red flag - a concern for me as the passenger as I'd be that man!! My own car was an elderly 105E in its 997cc guise but with electric wipers although the benefits of these were somewhat offset bay a whole in the passenger side wheel arch which a previous owner had professionally patched with a copy of the Sum and a tea towel; I discovered this at 2am in a near monsoon. The next car was another 105E in rather better shape before taking the plunge with a Ford Escort Mark 1 estate, less exciting than the Ford Anglia Alladette which I'd been tempted by from a "friend of a friend" which I subsequently found out was "rotten as a pair" and with an insurance rating for an 18 year old student which would mean I'd still be paying the instalments now. Totally off topic but what else to do on a Sunday?

Just a quickie to say "Hi" from a Newbie to Škoda and Briskoda and hope you are keeping safe during this ***tard Pandemic.. My first Škoda purchase in 40 years and very impressed! My 2019 vRS Octavia is a revelation, but then my last Škoda was an Estelle back when I was a nipper and needed something with a roof on to compliment the Honda I was riding back then! Currently hailing from Nottinghamshire, have lived abroad for 20 odd years on the Isle of Wight(!) and Rome, Italy. Always worked in I.T. so I'm a very tecchie sort of person who loves tinkering... Hope to see you in the forums, 10-10 .. oops wrong century and decade - until then, take care. KimZ

So quick recap: You stated that the Superb essentially suffers from its MQB underpinnings and that the shock and spring modifications are not enough - Then when asked when/where/how this was proven true you replied you don't actually own (let alone have modified) the car. Thanks for the clarification. Unfortunately I can't say this is something one does not come across often on the internet today when asking for advice.

This thread would suggest that the worst thing about this executive sized car is that it is on the same common platform as the VW Golf. You can only do so much by varying spring & damper rates & if you look at the part numbers the same items are used across all the models, the two vehicles at the extreme ends of the range really should not be sharing the same suspension set up.

Brave colour! Stands out for sure in that ocean of grey and silver (mine is grey lol). The best thing about this car apart from the great underpinnings is it's on a platform where everything is possible and off-the-shelf no matter if you plan on turning it into a drag weapon or a track car. PS. Re-reading my post above now and I realized "average" driver might have a negative meaning in English, In my native language the same term is used to refer to the statistical mean of some distribution and I was referring to exactly that, in terms of priorities and requirements, not about driving skills or anything like that!

Spent a few hours and a couple of hundred miles in the Fabia over the weekend, across A roads, B roads and dual carriageways. I can now confidently say that the new suspension is superb, and a quantum leap forward compared with the standard set up and even a vast improvement over standard shocks with Eibach springs. Most impressive is the significant improvement in ride quality, whilst still retaining excellent body control and handling. The more I drive it the more I like it - very impressed!

This is the head wear of choice these days for Hardcore offroaders / Toyota drivers

Probably no.3 lead had gone open circuit (common) and those connections (2+3) were getting far higher voltages than normal leading to those deposits. Would have eventualy broken down and killed the coil.

Mine was delivered to dealership today- had been in UK port since 24/9 due to a "glitch in Skoda system" or maybe backlog in port as yours

Or some sort of Land Rover

Hi. The AdBlue has to be topped up from time to time, depending on your mileage. The tank holds 8.5 litres which is enough for about 4000 miles, and you will get a warning if there isn't enough left for about 1500 miles. I think it would be very unlikely that you had any in the tank that was over 4 years old, unless you covered less than 1000 miles per year. Any decent brand will do (All AdBlue is the same), but as filling the tank is a bit of a faff you might want to get the dealer to do it in which case they will most likely use Skoda branded stuff which I doubt is the cheapest.

thats great exactly what i needed to know, thanks very much to everyone for the advise just one more reason for coming back to a skoda the forum members are more than happy to help if they can thanks again kev

If you are referring to the caliper slide pins.

It's hard to guess like that because those loads mentioned on Eibach's catalog are the maximum allowed per axle, not the actual axle weight on the car, and that's why they are all quite close. You would need the exact spring rates and axle weights to calculate the drop precisely, assuming the springs are linear of-course. We could do the following though: Mine was weighed at 690kg (rear axle) with 1/4 of fuel in. If you can measure yours and there is say, X kg of difference, I can apply those same X kg on mine by adding people and cargo and then measure the drop in mm that those extra kg brought. Assuming a linear spring behavior (they appear to be) you would get an idea of how much less yours would drop on the same springs and if it's enough. Overall though, with the rear springs from a 280 on a 220, plus the Audi pads, I estimate you should have little drop in general (maybe half than advertised) even your with extra insulation so you would be good to go. Question is what would happen with the front...

Hi everyone! No more puddles in the front passenger footwell. The problem was underneath the scuttle there is a tray that diverts water from going on to the pollen filter. My tray was missing, god knows why, either after a careless service or a careless windscreen change, someone had broke it. After searching car breakers etc. Finally I gave up and bought a new one from a Skoda dealer for about £25 then installed it myself. A very doable job. Cheers everyone for the help.

Had the wheel alignment done while I was on holiday. never had it checked and subframes been off, suspension a few times now, and I’ve just changed track rod ends. company called Stringtheory in Stratford-on-Avon. Top job and it drives amazing now, surprised what a difference it’s made. needed the subframe adjusting slightly to get the Camber more equal, and was also done with my weight in drivers seat as I mostly drive it alone.

I think the stop start only has two purposes. It allowed the car to use less fuel and emit less pollution in the official emission test cycle, a significant part of which is with the vehicle stationary. It does usefully reduce pollution from stationary cars in queues. I doubt if the savings in fuel ever recover the extra cost, but we probably do save slightly in the road tax assessment.

Very nice, top job. Thats was one of the dissapointments for me in the Oct 3 - the standard stereo was poor, even in comparison to my Oct 2

I have seen it. I'd need to try and dig out the paperwork they gave me as it was a long time ago. I'll look tonight see what I can find.

CV joints tend to knock more when placed under the most load when turning through the tightest angle. To make this easier to visualise, imagine a group of soldiers maching in ranks, and the leader asks them to turn. the soldiers on the inside if they are turning right, tend to just mark time, whereas the soldiers on the outer ranks carry on marching at pace to make the turn. In your case, the joint on the o/s/f is turning a tighter angle at a lower speed, while the n/s/f turns at a lesser angle and higher speed assisted by the diff, otherwise the inner tyre would destroy itself. As has already been said, joints usually fail when the protective boot splits, but it is not unheard of a joint to fail just due to excess wear and tear. Best plan is to jack the car up safely, use an axle stand to support the car just in case of movement, then put the steering on lock with the car switched off and rotate the wheel by hand while looking at the joint and boot to see if anything is not right under there. Worn joint also tend to lock and release when rotated rather than smoothly rotate (difficult to explain, but you'll know it when you see it, it's that obvious). Hope it helps, difficult subject to explain in a single post, good luck

I'll second that. Sasha did some coding for me in the summer. You did a great job, thanks again Sasha.

Just had a look at various build combinations and years and some cars use the extra wires for the remote control and some don't. Pulled my passenger side A-Pillar trim off and couldn't see the wire in the loom. Looked at 1K0 937 085L on the parts program only shows replacement to be used 1K0 937 087AB has PR-Codes 4R0, 4R4 and 4R5 no info about remote control

I would shop around some more. AGM stop start batteries are available at£150 or less and fitting should be about £15.

It's great to get different view points on these mods. Having recently turned stop/start back on I can vouch for the comfort sitting at lights with the engine off. I'll be removing the insert prior to parting in the car so it'll be interesting to see how it feels lowered but no insert.

Little bit vague... I guess it's normal for a car to make some noise when accelerating... It's not an electric car... 🤣🤪😁

At 3 years it's due a brake fluid change and at 40K miles it's due a DSG oil change , seems to me they are quoting for both of them to be done even though it's a bit early for DSG oil change.

£286 for a new battery? I was amazed at how much the dealership is charging you. He's being done, me thought. Remembering last year, I had a new Varta battery fitted to SWMBO's Fiat 500 (with s/s). Looked up the paperwork - £146.27 inc vat So I put my reg.number into Euro Car Parts and guess what? I am so sadly out of touch. OK, my Yeti needs a tad more oomph from the battery but.... Varta AGM 096 £439.99 Bosch AGM 096 £454.99 Exide AGM 096 £429.99 Lion AGM 096 £294.99 Good luck Fabcol, you have a good deal and I am suitably chastened!

I think Superchips offer a warrantee if they chip it, the terms used to be quite extensive - but then I think they were in financial trouble recently.

I presume Phil means REPLACE the pollen filter - very bad idea to remove the filter permanently. New filter costs as little as £8 - £15.

I see Mercedes have finally named a vehicle after the method they use to work out the price of their parts.

Funny you should say that. The other car on the drive is a ..........................................................

On my 3rd one, best car Ive ever had when considering all factors. Ive had 'better' cars, but all things considered this is my favourite, the combination of quick enough, comfortable, cheap to run, enormous boot etc is simply hard to beat. Glad to hear you've decided to keep yours (although Id probably have had it off you in a heart beat! :D)