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They only offered the Kodiaq here in AU as TSI. There were a few older 2017 TDIs but were old stock and didn't have the virtual cockpit so I had to get a petrol instead. I wasn't really happy with the way it drove, coming from the CFFB 3T Superb (was remapped with Superchips (now bankrupt lol)) the CZPA petrol was slow to react and lacked any sense of urgency when asked. It would rev high when pressed but didn't seem to do a lot other than make noise. Late last year after I'd got 15,000km on the car I had the ECU remapped by a company called Exceltune here in Melbourne 'straya. It was the type of remap where they take out the car engine control module and hook it up on the bench. No opening of the ECU was required. Since then the engine output has certainly improved. Torque from 2000 RPM is way up and it has much more shove without having to rev like a Honda. It stays in 7th gear a lot more now on highways. Overtaking is much much improved. It is rougher when the engine is in panic mode (i.e. when you stab at the accelerator) but in normal driving is much more gentle surge of torque without being shouty (i.e. more like a diesel ) Fuel economy improvement is not noticeable compared to a diesel tune. On the latest run from Melbourne to Canberra and back, I averaged 7.2l/100km as opposed to 7.7-ish before the tune but simple wind direction or weather could explain that difference. This run is approx 6.5 hours at 110km/hr though rolling hills. My beloved CFFB diesel does the same run at 5.8 l/100km but doesn't have radar cruise control :( Boost is higher, I've seen peaks of 21PSI compared to it maxing out at about 14 before it was tuned. 20PSI+ for a standard cylinder head is a bit worrying but it seems to peak and then reign it back so it should be OK for longevity. I was under the impression that the CZPA had a smaller turbo than the similar engine in the Tiguan and didn't think it was able to achieve 21PSI. No codes logged since and no warning lights or faults have appeared. I've not tried the launch control since the tune but it's a DQ500 DSG so rated for 500Nm so the slightly-less-than 400Nm that in theory it puts out now should be fine. Water and oil temps did not increase at all. Cat temp also doesn't seem to be higher but I would only expect that when the extra is being used. I declined the offer to put it on the dyno post tune (it was extra cost and the car is a shopping trolley not a race car) so I'm not sure what it's actually putting out, but 170-ish kW and 400-ish Nm (from 2250 - 4000 RPM) is about what to expect based on the supplied generic dyno charts. So 2 months in I'm a lot happier and it's much nicer in urban and rural driving. They were also working on an awesome black Golf R that had $40k spent on it which was pushing insane power but it also sounded stupid (like a giant 2 stroke lawn mower). To pre-empt some questions: - No, insurance doesn't care here. No change to premium. - Yes, if Skoda can prove that the tune caused a failure they may choose to not provide warranty for that part(s) but cannot void the whole car warranty just on the basis of a tune. This is my third ECU tuned VW and so far the tunes have not caused any of the failures on these cars. - No, in Vic we don't have annual MOT or equivalent emissions testing - Cost was $AUD1,295 which is about three shillings Stirling on the current conversion rate. - No special requirement for fuel, stays at 95 octane or better (as per the owners manual) but I run 98 anyway (as Costco sells only 91 or 98 and their 98 is cheaper than branded stations 95).

Hi, yes, it is the production car - my guess is CW50. I will add more photos as soon as I can. Right now the car is under the snow.

A few photos from today's walk........

Daylight pictures. Needs a wash already 😞

In my kitchen.

Just thought I'd share my recent experience which was very surprising and pleasing. My 2011 Octavia has a very shabby gear lever knob, the top trim piece is worn and cracked. Searched on ebay and they are readily available in the £15 to £25 price range plus shipping. Out of curiosity tried my local main agents, Lightcliffe. Genuine Part £9 and some pennies. They even have a COVID safe parts collection system where you pay online and collect parts from outside the door with no need to go inside the dealership, very useful in these strange times. Previous experience of main dealers was expensive parts, this is great service, is this typical of the Skoda strategy to parts. ?

I think all cars have as an standard equipment the independent heating/ AC. You can set your departure time in the car or in the app and you have following options: Just normal heating/ AC, or you can add as an options: Heating of the seat (you can choose separately), heating of the steering wheel and also heating of the screen. If you do not want to set it before, you can do it immediately in the app or by opening the car with the remote key. I have the heating pump, and in comparison with my diesel Octavia, the heating is much faster. Heating of the seats and of the steering wheel is also automatic - overall I am very satisfied with the heating performance.

Hi, you are right, that is the Skoda Dealership in Mlada Boleslav. I also work for Skoda, so do not expect any negative comments :-D (My previous car was the Octavia, Gen 4) Interiour: Bigger than in Octavia, more legroom on the rear seats The driver's seating position is quite similar to Octavia, but you seat higher (because of the Batteries), the windscreen is quite far away -> Enyaq feels roomy I was worried, that the size of the FID is to small, but it is perfect - you can focus just on the important data Infotainment is similar to Octavia with some improvements - it is possible to add your favourites settings to the bar with temperatures... Drive: Quiet Well balanced settings - It does not motivate to drive fast, but if you want to, it goes through the corners really easy The weight of the car is well hidden because of the batteries between the wheels, you don't feel it in the corners Acceleration is really smooth, 150 kW is perfect for everyday use, if you need more, you can choose up to 225 kW Charging DC charging speed depends on the SOC and on the temperature of the battery, you can get the best charging speeds (125 kW) roughly to 50% SOC

Fix the problem(s) with the 256s, they should feel ample for an HTP. Is it the 6-valve or 12-valve variant of HTP? If you do want to go bigger you need the other type of wheel bearing carrier, without the built-in brake carrier. If the problem with the current set-up is hydraulic or pneumatic you won't be any better off though. Any warning lights on? Our HTP suffered a gradual loss of servo assistance due to a PCV valve airleak. Fixing that returned the brakes to their previous ample functionality and they are only the 239mm size. The airleak started to generate intermittent lambda faults but only years after the brakes started to get worse. Brake servo vac hose cracking is another mechanism fro airleaks direct into the servo pneumatics, check it by feel and visually ether side of the one-way valve.

Farmhouse, somewhere in the Lake District.

I don't have a problem with condensation, my problem is opening frozen shut doors after a night of damp hard frosts. Doors frozen solid even though I've used Gummipleg on seals. Real pain on these cold nights.

Here's a picture of mine. Needs a wash already.

Ebay sellers are going to be buying from TPS or dealers then adding margin for handling, shipping and profit; so just as expected really. (For genuine parts anyway).

I buy from TPS and pay dealer retail price less 8%, I am public and did not ask for the discount, it was given automatically. During the rebuild of the accident damage on the Yeti I cross checked every part that I bought against offerings on the internet, Ebay, Superskoda etc and with only one exception the Skoda price for the genuine part was significantly less than those offered elsewhere tow hich postage had to be added. By far the most opportunistic was Superskoda and the other supposed cheap Eastern European suppliers. The part I did find a little cheaper was the inner steel bumper beam, often called the crash bar. The only part that I thought was expensive even taking into account the costs of stocking & distribution was the plastic inner grille assembly at £58 + Vat but they were much more on E-bay, Superskoda etc. The headlights probably would have been expensive but I needed right hand dipping ones for my LHD country & I can get OE Hella units from Germany at a very good price.

@Tishout - I ordered mine 14/12/2020.

I'll raise a case today as they've now emailed me back but are still making me wait until the courier confirms the goods as "lost". Not my problem. No goods = refund Cheers folks

I would second going down the paypal route, assuming that is how you paid. I ordered from them once, the order was marked as dispatched but it seems they never actually handed it over to the courier. Emails went unanswered for several weeks until I threatened to raise a dispute via paypal and lo and behold, they refunded me in full the next day. So, you may not even need to actually raise a dispute, just threaten it.

Will get some daylight ones today

Hi, thank you for the warm welcome. I have version "82", that means 82 kWh Battery, Interiour Lodge, 19" winter wheels "Regulus", almost all equipment except panorama roof and AR-HUD. I have two cables, MODE2, this is a standard equipment and as a extra I have the universal charging cable by Skoda - 11 kW AC. So I am usually charging at home and sometimes I also use the HPC.

Love it so far, not many pics due to weather, short days and lockdown. Few niggles primarily with infotainment but I think this will improve with software updates etc. I think it’s a great all rounder car

And mine, waiting in same parking lot 😁

it looks like Petrol Blue, other places called Lava Blue. This is our iV in the same color:

Hi, I just have got my Enyaq, feel free to ask.

My VRS in quartz grey.

Hi, I have had the same problem. I tried different ways to connect (can't remember which) but I had no success.

Pretty sure they've removed the service record access. No idea if it'll be back in a future version, hope so as it's about the only useful thing the app did for me!

Don't see a problem undoing the CV bolt, put a large screwdriver or steel rod through the aperture in the brake caliper into the vented disc end-on to lock the shaft, then release the bolt with steady pressure from a 3 foot bar or 1m if you are so inclined ;@)

I had a call from Skoda this afternoon and was told that there's "a new campaign" which should lead to cars (including mine) being taken into the garage to get an update to address the issue. Hopefully it'll address the other gremlins I've got as it's all getting a bit tiresome now.

Hi Burhan..... Take it from me...better not to wait for a TB change. If it breaks it can wreak havoc. Also when you change the TB, change the tensioner, idler pulleys and also the water pump to be safe. My tensioner gave away when I was leaving for a long trip.....I had inspected the TB visually and it was in good condition and also I could see the TB was changed when my car had done 70k kms. But the previous owner skipped the tensioner change.....as a result I was stranded midway on my trip and had to get my car towed to the workshop.

Agree had a slight problem opening my drivers door after it sitting in our rural office car park for 12 hours last night and it was only -4.5C not the -12C seen in the Scottish Highlands recently. Only got 57mpg from my diesel on the commute home as well.

Ok cut a long story short took the wheel off in the end found and a digit code 8Z8 I presume that's the code for the colour but some of the guys on the forearm telling me it also could be a VW Audi paint code L1H7 Skoda garages haven't a clue there is no such cold day tell me I phoned three of them up up only one was helpful by giving me this 8Z8 was told by 1 Garage to phone up Skoda UK which I will do tomorrow but just wanted your opinion on it all I just think it's a mystery nothing can be this hard but in the end it all the great laugh I shall I find something thanks for the input mate much appreciated

Hi everyone, Im a new member who is looking at replacing my current drive which is a Subaru xv/Crosstrek and moving over to a Koroq Sportline. What I've seen in person and read from reviews, the Koroq ticks every box. Im here to learn more and take the next step. Thank you.

thanks for all the input lads think i may have sorted my problem now, i think it may have just been a case of 2 things me not using the car that often it is summer when i do a lot of miles and the really cold snap we are having. started it up this morning, and started up strait away and it was -3 here? so with a bit of luck i will plug it up to a ctek 5.0 and let it give the battery a good charge and keep a better eye on the condition of my battery it may save me having to buy a battery well this year anyway lol thanks again and hope this thread is of some help to any other members, atb kev

Nice! goes nicely with the brushed parts on the rims and the black plastics.

A Harley engine would look good. V2....perhaps a Guzzi or Honda engine would be a lot cheaper? WIth boxer, BMW or Citroen 2 cyclinders. Continual source of confusion for me too !

One way to possibly attract attention is to write to Skoda and request that the complaint to be logged in their Quality Management System. If they are an accredited organisation, then any complaints MUST be formally acknowledged and addressed. This has worked wonders in the past when things have gone wrong with other companies. Quite often they will put in extra effort to avoid the onerous formal complaints process. Even if they engage in a dialogue then it is better than total radio silence.

I think the scratch removal is the best idea. I'm prepared to bet that a non oem screen will have worse optics than a local scratch repair. Unless they polish the camera window locally I think you'll be OK on that front, but ask them to be sure!

I have experienced similar issues with my time Nokia 7 & Octavia.

To use your words, - No offense but find someone else to play with please. Roof is undamaged, what the gloved hand is pointing at is a seperate panel, when rear 1/4 panel is portapowered back into alignment before removal and replacement it will probably lift the rear corner of the roof if it is pulled down, difficult to see from the photograph, at best there may be a PDR ding remaining, no filler or paintwork required to roof but the other panels will be painted anyway so no real problem. 100% it will be repaired and most likely the buyer will not even inspect it having seen all that he needs to like me from these photographs which are more detailed than before and bear out what I thought from seeing the others. It should be possible to disagree with others without insults or mocking, you asked questions in a very rude manner & nonetheless I replied to them politely, its a shame you were unable to reciprocate.

Any clever / "smart" battery charger will do. I have used older, non automatic chargers and a smart one. Both charged the Superb battery and neither destroyed it. My battery is 7 years old and ticking over o.k. When you charge a start / stop battery or jump start - as mentioned in the video very dramatically - connect the positive to the positive battery terminal and the negative lead to a metal part in the engine bay or the body somewhere, NOT straight to the battery negative as you might "confuse" the battery controller. In the video the guy was talking about coding or programming a car's controller. When doing this your car's ignition is switched on, the car is draining a high current and you need to maintain the battery and if the battery went flat during a programming procedure you could "brick" the controller. This requires a much higher amperage in the region of 25A not 3 - 5A a "standard" battery charger can provide.

I think i found your topic:

Finished!

Can I add on this topic with mine? Arrived 2 days ago...

Over 15 years of Skoda ownership, 3 vehicles and being obsessive about range and MPG I can confidently state that unless there is a fault with the sender you will always have at least one gallon of fuel left when the maxidot drops to zero miles, its their way of creating a fuel reserve. The fuel guage needle will be on zero and the measuring block in VCDS will show + / - 5 litres remaining, the system is incredibly accurate but the display deliberately misleading to give a security margin. When you brim the tank it will show full and the maxidot range will be that which you would get (assuming driver & journey profile remains as before) if you drove till the tank was empty, we will all recognise that when filling up at zero miles we never ever get the range initially indicated at fill up. As the vehicle consumes the fuel the guage will drop in a linear manner and the maxidot range will drop in a linear manner until the last 1/4 of the tank at which time the for instance 50 mile "reserve" range will gradually dissapear. For example you fill up & the maxidot shows 700 miles range but you never seem to get more than 600 miles before refilling at "zero miles remaining", you will travel 150 miles and the fuel guage will drop 1/4, the maxidot will show 550 miles remaining, at half a tank you will have travelled 300 miles & the display will show 400 miles remaining, at 1/4 tank remaining you will have travelled 450 miles and the maxidot will show 250 remaining. You will only drive 150 miles before the guage has hit zero and the maxidot shows zero miles remaining, you will in fact have 100 miles of fuel left in the tank. The above example was to make the numbers easier, you would likely have 60 miles reserve. Before this CR engine I drove all my vehicles to empty several times, (a couple of times when the sender was faulty) the last time was to establish the true range, when it ran dry I filled it with 5 litres exactly, the fuel guage moved up within the red zone, the maxidot showed 40 remaining miles, remarkable accuracy for an inch or so of fuel at the bottom of the tank, I drove 4 miles to a filling station during which time the remaining miles dropped to zero in 5 mile increments. Over the years I have nearly always driven 50 miles beyond when the maxidot shows zero miles remaining so it must be hundreds of times, 50 miles is when I start to get anxious, I have gone beyond it an not yet run out aside from my first range test, I think that time it was 85 miles but I was in super eco mode.

@Taz1983 - the cool blue boost aren't brighter than other xenon's. If anything, they'll be dimmer. The way they've increased the colour temperature is by adding a blue filter on the bulbs, reducing the total light output. That's the reason they aren't road legal. Still, I agree it's best to stay with road legal ece approved versions 👍

Mine with the 17" winter alloys. Got 18" different looking alloys for summer tyres.

Here's mine on the day I picked it up (last Monday), with the car it replaced in the background. The observant among you might be able to tell what colour I like...

Ours after treating it to a good wax

I'm not going to order one. I don't need one, mine is on 13k miles. They do look nice though. But it would be madness. I wonder if, no never mind. Anyway, what would the wife say? If I got a white one would she notice? I want one!!