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Hi interested persons, The Yeti has been repaired. re water pump - SKODA provided water pump at 50% off and no further. The dealer came to the party with 50% off labour. The cause of the leak was identified as an internal housing leak. re oil separator - SKODA provided oil separator at 50% off and no further. The dealer came to the party with 100% off labour. The cause of the oil separator leak was not specified but it was regarded as being in excellent condition with no signs of any blockage in oil galleries leading to the separator. A cylinder leak test was carried out by the dealer (my request) to "determine if there was abnormal crank case pressure and the result was everything is as the manufacturer intended". re oil separator - nobody will say what the underlying problem is but from what I can gather it is the design ....... no idea which bit but as the separators show no symptoms apart from leakage my highly uneducated guess is the interface between the separator and whatever it is fixed to. Surface interface issues??? Adhesive?? No idea. It's great the work has been carried out, but it took 10 weeks to get to agreement and 6 weeks of that time was waiting for SKODA to respond on 3 occasions and even then they still had to be prompted. Pretty shabby. That said, I am happy with the dealer's final offer and the work carried out .......... as far as I can tell from peering under the bonnet! The beast is back on her feet (yes, she is a she) and strolling the hills around here with renewed confidence. Thanks for your help and sharing your knowledge and experiences. Cheers

an 'extensive' check of my CCTV reveals it came flying off a ride on lawnmower being used by the local council to cut the grass adjacent to my house (or the delorean that passed at the same time)

I use to own a MK2 Octavia VRS which was at stage 3 and I had got the K04 turbo rebuilt by AET Turbos. I had put my name down to get a retune by R-tech (August 2020) as I had the turbo upgraded to 370bhp spec and waited a retune to get the full potential. However after months of waiting i got fed up ( im calling this Covid Blues and I eventually got a call back in June 2021) and start looking at MK3 VRS. To shorten a long story, I ended up buying a MK3 Superb 280 L&K estate. Main inspiration was "Darth" and I always wanted to try an estate. So I bought the Superb at the back end of February 2021 and inital plans were to go to stage 2 only. Looks like im going to go fully to stage 3 now! In the meanwhile please enjoy of the pics!

You are my hero For 16 years I have had to resort to the brutal technique of repeated full on ABS high speed emergency stops on a deserted downhill road, it did more harm than good usually glazing the pads while deglazing the discs. After my brief test I can see where its removing the corrosion that has begun to creep in on my new (12 months ago) rear discs, they need more work but now I will be able to prevent any recurrence and get a full service life out of them. I can't believe that I have never tried that, I usually try every possible variation even if it seems daft.

I had problems drying out the discs as as soon as you applied the footbrake it cut the throttle and that's enough to be scary so I phoned Skoda and they did not have a clue what I was talking about. But I found that if the footbrake is applied first the throttle can then be applied to balance the brake and the brake can then be applied more firmly against the throttle.

Reject! Without a second thought!

It riased up by an 1inch! Thoughts? There is plenty of thread left to adjust it higher if needed. First drive on the B16's, Firmer in all settings, once you which to sport you actually hear it adjusting when the window lol Well test full this weekend see how much of a difference the B16s and the Whiteline ARB kit have made.

Of the remaining 6 ways on the connector, 4 go to the charge pressure/intake temperature sensor (MAP sensor), and 2 to the A/C compressor control solenoid valve, as far as I can see from wiring info.

I'll give a look later on my car. My car did the high idle thing before when I wasnt driving it much, I think its just a regen. Was told it could also be because the car thinks the battery is low so its keeping higher revs to charge itself. Since i've had the dpf removed its done the high idle thing exactly once. If its a connector that size my mk1 has one just like that on the front of the engine, (I want to say near the oil filter housing?) and it goes to the alternator iirc. I imagine its going to be in a similar spot on my mk2.

Its a disease..... 15 bikes in the family and with bike shops as busy as they are I seem to have become the 'friends and family' mechanic too... Currently in the workshop I have a friends daughter's Marlin 5 for a full service and 'do what I can' with the Suntour boingy forks, a 24" wheel BSO to get as functional as I can for another friends child, my gravel bike for some different bars 'cause the 25° flare bars are just not for me, and my best bike in for a bit of a fettle before LEJOG. That lot should keep me busy. Biggest issue with all of it is getting the parts, luckily I have a limited stock of common wear items that I built up. Still riding 100+ miles a week in prep for LEJOG too. Beginning to wonder if its gone beyond hobby into 'obsession' territory :-)

I wonder if @DieselMonte knows where this connector is? He seems like a man who will have explored his engine bay thoroughly.

I'll be happy when i can get back out full stop! i MUST stop sitting on the PC and ordering stuff so far the list is 2 pairs pads 2 180 floating rotors 10sp chain 11-46 cassette for the Whyte mineral brake oil enduro straps x3 Shimano RD M5210 SGS rear derailleur Shimano SL M4100 shifter RaceFace Aeffect crankset. RaceFace cranks are going on the Whyte along with the new cassette, rotors and pads derailleur/shifter, Xeron crankset off the Whyte, spare Saint BB and used cassette are going on the Felt - the one i said i'd never spend money on upgrading just realised i also need a DM chainring for the RaceFace...oops

Hi Upsidedown and others interested, The Yeti has been repaired. re water pump - SKODA provided water pump at 50% off and no further. The dealer came to the party with 50% off labour. The cause of the leak was identified as an internal housing leak. re oil separator - SKODA provided oil separator at 50% off and no further. The dealer came to the party with 100% off labour. The cause of the oil separator leak was not specified but it was regarded as being in excellent condition with no signs of any blockage in oil galleries leading to the separator. A cylinder leak test was carried out by the dealer (my request) to "determine if there was abnormal crank case pressure and the result was everything is as the manufacturer intended". It's great the work has been carried out, but it took 10 weeks to get to agreement and 6 weeks of that time was waiting for SKODA to respond on 3 occasions and even then they still had to be prompted. Pretty shabby. That said, I am happy with the dealer's final offer and the work carried out .......... as far as I can tell from peering under the bonnet! The beast is back on her feet (yes, she is a she) and strolling the hills around here with renewed confidence. Thanks for your help and sharing your knowledge and experiences. Cheers

A few from the last few days. The mice don't tend to sit still for long!!

Thanks for the information Wino, you have helped me out a lot - again.

Flux capacitor.

The short answer is that it's a bad idea. The common rail engines were engineered from the outset to work with a DMF and take advantage of the reduced vibration and shock loads it allows. As a result internal moving parts, crankshaft especially, are smaller and lighter than they'd need to be to handle a SMF, and would be at risk of breaking if you installed a DMF. On top of that it's going to be rather unpleasant from a refinement point of view.

True. Meguiar's idea of a brush is a Microfibre on a stick (click), it seems OK for scratches. Bilt Hamber is good stuff, it's their korrosol I use.

I've been having a brief break from the bike as I've been feeling really flat after my second vaccination and surprised how much I feel like something is missing in my life. I'm looking forward to getting back on the MTB and taking advantage of the bone dry super fast trails. I had been deliberating whether to pay for Strava or not because I'm actually finding it a lot better not being able to see the leaderboards because I don't bother now trying to beat my times and enjoy the ride instead. Which has resulted in faster times and was surprised to get a PB (and 6th overall) on one of my favourite segments that I spent a while improving on but haven't been near that time in a while and I'd long given up trying to beat it. Very much a bike for good conditions but my absolute favourite to ride: I'm definitely feeling in the mood for an event for a change but with many cancelled I'm not sure what's even likely to run. I decided to for a late night loop of Loch Ness on my own instead since I'd done that last year when the roads are quiet and it worked out well but I was around a third of the way round and just about to leave mobile reception and start climbing when someone texted me to say the road was closed for the last third and it was a lengthy diversion. I was disappointed I had to abandon the ride but that was a big relief as I'd not be happy to find I had a two to three hour diversion at 1am:

Looks like the top off a washing line prop.

Another guess then... How about picking a contact that you do want as a preset and seeing if a 'replace' option is available?

Popping these here in case helpful.

It's not mentioned directly in the owners manual, but it says you can select whether the arrow buttons on the screen select the next stations stored or all available stations by going into the Radio Settings menu, and choosing the desired option. I'm pretty sure that this will also choose whether the steering wheel controls scroll through all stations or the preset stations. Chris

Don't forget some iron remover.

bought a diesel!

Find an empty stretch of road apply the handbrake gently balancing with the throttle for about 100 yards to see if that improves things. If it is still noticeable get up to the same speed and gear then release throttle then gently apply footbrake before applying throttle to balance the brake, it should clear them up pretty quick. If you apply the footbrake before releasing throttle the car will think you are trying to stop and reduce power to nearly nothing and and will brake leading to not clearing disks and pads. It's the same as drying brakes after going thru water.

Mine does this. It is simply the noise made when the turbocharger is still spinning and compressing air. But there is nowhere for the air to go if the engine is stopped. So it makes a whooshing sound in the intake if that makes sense.

Mine shuts down if it detects no motion but power is permanently on so the the battery is kept charged. Should you turn the auto shutdown off then yest, it would be on 24/7 if it could be. The hardwire kit stops the camera from draining the car battery though, should the voltage get too low it cuts power to the cam. My car is used daily so its never been an issue anyway.

As promised in my original post latest update follows. Did receive promised paper copy of owners manual from dealer (contrary to the advice from Skoda-cz that only available electronically!) Thanks for all members comments & advice. As CJJE 's post on 8th July advised there are about 50 missing pages covering a lot of the infotainment system for all variants. Followed Davebm's advice in his post of 18th June - this download worked and is printable - and fills the gaps - not sure it is the exact version I needed for our car ..... but one counts one blessings. Thoughts - if Davebm found it on that site -how did it get there and why don't Skoda uk/cz point owners there!!!! Also agree FlyingGecko & DSL posts on 8th July - one reason opted for Skoda Karoq was the reliability we had from 12 years driving a roomster and the relative unreliability of so-called premium brand alternatives eg mercedes & bmw. Our shortlist had included LR Evoque until we read about how often owners visited dealers albeit under warranty and at no but cost that really misses the point as it shouldn't happen, disappoints and is very inconvenient. Now wading through infotainment and satnav instructions. Wish me luck wiil keep you posted on progress or seek further help/advice. Tonks (Nick)

I'm guessing the connector I circled is the one ehod has the photo of? Near the battery? I don't know if this is much help But I started at the brown wire at the alternator plug (see second pic) and tried to chase it back. From what I can see its going down and under some coolant hose in behind the intake manifold. I lost it after that but it must be pretty low on the engine, guessing you'll see it if you can get under the car and get off the undertray. If I can get out i'll put my car over the pit and take off the undertray and look for it.

The vent flap actuators are not Canbus controlled.

No, it's the older and bigger Stache which runs 29+ rather than 27.5+: Trek have now discontinued it as the market has moved away from the bigger 29+ and the Roscoe has been a lot more popular but I love the big wheels and wide rims as well as the short back end and slack front, I've had the bike a few years now and never ridden anything else I found better. I would like to try a Full Stache out of interest but I went to a rigid after full suspension and liked the feel of it so the hardtail is a good compromise.

That's nothing to do with adapting or coding... On a working car, it should look similar to this: Address 55: Headlight Range (J745) Labels:. 5M0-907-357-V3.clb Part No SW: 5M0 907 357 F HW: 7L6 907 357 C Component: AFS-ECU H04 0111 Revision: -------- Serial number: -------------- Subsystem 1 - Part No SW: 8U0 941 329 HW: 8U0 941 329 Labels: 3D0-941-329.CLB Component: LeiMo links H01 0005 Coding: 8E0000 Subsystem 2 - Part No SW: 8U0 941 329 HW: 8U0 941 329 Labels: 3D0-941-329.CLB Component: LeiMo rechts H01 0005 Coding: 8E0000 Notice there are two subsystems, one for each headlight. On your scan, you only have one subsystem so for some reason, the AFS master can't communicate with one of the headlights. Given both the old and new module show the same error message, it's likely to be a wiring issue somewhere. You need to check the power, ground and CAN-bus connections... Based on the Octavia and MK6 Golf, the headlight pinout is: - pin 1 is AFS CAN high - pin 2 is AFS CAN low - pin 4 is AFS slave power - pin 5 and 7 are ground As I mentioned previously, on my Octavia both AFS slaves are powered by a single fuse (SC21) but given the replacement modules isn't talking, I just checked the Superb manual and that suggests: - fuse 10 Adaptive left main headlight - fuse 11 Adaptive right main headlight I'd check for power on pin 4 of the headlight and fuse 10/11 as a start. If you've got power, disconnect the car battery and check continuity for the AFS CAN-bus between the headlights and the grounds are good.

Not the same thing. ODBEleven is a diagnosis tool not a system monitor tool. Re:VW dongle. It works with any VAG car from 2012 onwards. You should be safe. Get the dongle, plug it into your ODBC port, start you car, download and run Skoda Connect Lite and connect to the Bluetooth dongle. You will need the passcode on the side of the dongle. Job done.

My euro 6 diesel is to same emission standard as a current petrol but does more mpg so cleaner overall!!

Gasket between air filter and throttle body is item 3 (first one 036129625H) here air filter with connecting parts - Fabia(FAB) [EUROPA 2007 year] (7zap.com) Oil filler tube parts shown as parts 24/25/36 here cylinder head; cylinder head cover; cover - Fabia(FAB) [EUROPA 2007 year] (7zap.com) Oil leaks on these engines can be the result of blockage of the crankcase breather module on the rear of the engine block, item 19 here cylinder block with pistons; oil sump - Fabia(FAB) [EUROPA 2007 year] (7zap.com). If this item doesn't function correctly, the pressure in the crankcase rises above atmosphere, pushing oil out of any imperfect seals. Look at these links on a computer, not a phone. Phones seem to cut some of the most useful info like the part numbers. Try a different scan tool if fault lights are on but you are not finding fault codes.

If you're doing it yourself it's very easy to do, Watch this if you take to an independent garage labour should cost no more than 20 quid per side, The ones you have linked are correct but I doubt they'll last very long, if you can pay a few quid more get TRW or lemforder,

Captain Hook...?

That looks really nice. So hot water, and then dental floss?

Sounds like one of two areas: 1) Check there are no leaks around the water pump - 2013-2017 cars have weak water pumps that are known to fail. 2) Check the cap on the top of the coolant expansion tank - these are also known to fail in random ways. When you stop the car or you have placed extra stress into the car, the coolant gets hots. When you stop the car, the excess heat will rise to a high point - this being the coolant header tank. The extra pressure maybe just enough to open a faulty cap and it leaks via the overflow on the side of the header tank.

Great cars @BenUK, I’ve had mine since 2016. I had a leak from the engine-mounted High Pressure Fuel Pump at around 50,000 mile point. Otherwise my only expenses have been tyre replacements, Michelin PilotSport 4, Continental PremiumContact or Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric 5 are usually around £200 a pair from Blackcircles. I average about 35 mpg in my TSI. The Driving Modes take a bit of getting used to. My MY14 Octavia has four driving modes – Eco, Normal, Sport and Individual – which can be accessed via a vRS button on the centre console. This then lists the options on the touchscreen, Normal being the default position. I have found it best to save my preferences in Individual. Eco never seemed to be economical. Normal is a bit bland, Sport too shouty in the car with the engine noise Soundaktor. Mine’s a DSG with shift paddles. I drive with the shifter set to D rather than S, it’s still responsive enough. The paddles are rarely useful in my opinion. Occasional use when a series of different bends in the road leave the automatic mode a bit flat footed. The car’s no sports coupe, but no slouch either and the best drive I’ve had in it was on the A827, along the side of the River Tay in Scotland, following the north side of Loch Tay from Kenmore to Killin and then on the A84 on to Callander. Thee are some really lovely drives to enjoy on the Heart 200 routes. https://heart200.scot/the-route/

Must be the day for Race Blue Metallic Enyaqs... Collected today. Dealer stock 60 Loft model I decided to take, so not the perfect spec, but close enough. Drive Basic. Drive Assistance Plus. Convenience Plus. 100kW charging. Light and View Basic. Parking Basic. Climate Basic. Got 3.6 miles/kWh on the way home, which I thought was OK given the aircon on strong and a climb over a 1,400 ft hill to get here. Mind you, the regen on the way back down was good! I thought I'd leave half the plate showing as getting one beginning DC seemed appropriate for a first electric car. Can't seem to get the "foot waving" boot to work reliably yet, but will persevere. Wish I could get the driving data onto the cockpit - would fit nicely into the right hand segment when not using satnav and allow me to scroll through the values like on the rest of the Skodas using the right thumb-wheel, but otherwise most things seem to make sense. Got stuck for a while behind a tractor in a small queue, so enabled the ACC and Driving Assist and it practically drove itself along the road, which was entertaining. The pACC seemed to do well too once I was free - slowed down fine for upcoming bends - probably something that works better on rural roads. Not yet tackled the charging - a few more days until my PodPoint is installed. And I wish I'd known you only got one umbrella (but oddly, still the passenger slot for one). I'd have kept one from my previous Kodiaq!

Yes, that was my understanding too. Not super concerned about a parking mode as I tend to avoid car parks and parking in town where possible so I think a parking incident is reasonably low odds for me. I've already got my radar detector hard wired in so don't really want to run another power wire up the pillar and headlining and I don't think I'm clever enough to somehow splice into the power feed for the radar detector as it's a phone type cable with RJ45 plugs. The way the cops are here the radar detector is a higher priority than the dashcam. It's pretty easy to exceed the 100km/h speed limit here in the vRS! It is a shame that Skoda didn't have the option of the USB socket on both sides to cater for different markets, it seems to be a bit of an oversight in a car that has so many neat little features.

I'm not sure which infotainment system you have, but according to the owners manual for the Amundsen system in a 2019/7 Karoq: To delete, tap on Telephone, User profile, Manage favourites in the main menu. To delete one preset, tap on the list entry and confirm the deletion. or to delete all presets, tap on Delete All and confirm the deletion. If that's not the right info for your car, you can go to ŠKODA Owner's Manuals (skoda-auto.com) and enter your VIN to see a digital handbook for your car. (The paper manual with your car may well not provide any details about operating the infotainment system - mine certainly didn't!) Chris

Thanks for the add to the group. Loving my new Fabia TSI 110.

Hello from Bucharest, Romania! Car ordered on 2nd February, 1 week before Meteor grey color ban. Car delivered after 16 weeks on 25th of may.

Thanks for flagging that up - My mechanic did say TPS originally sent the wrong bolts, and he had two sheets of invoice. I mixed them up, and posted a crop of the first invoice, which had the wrong ones on - Here it is again, but followed by the replacement bolt invoice. As rum4mo says, the part number for the correct M6 x 16mm bolts is N1054603. The question of the correct torque to be applied to those bolts seems to differ - Mine are now at 10 Nm, based on current info my mechanic obtained from Lookers Skoda. Here's hoping they torqued a good game...

It could be the brake disc shield has fractured or come loose. If you lie on your back and reach behind the disc you should be able to feel whether it is in place or not.

I’ve never messed a car up as much as that, but I wouldn’t say the marks are extreme. As long as it’s just scuffs and not cracked. It’s difficult to say how the assessor might judge it. Honestly, I’d just have a go with some trim cleaner and Elbow Grease and take a chance with the BCA inspector. I doubt if VWFS would cost more than paying up front now for new parts. And he may let you off the hook with “Normal Wear & Tear”.

Couldn't agree more with this! We've taken delivery of our new Karoq and since then (nearly 2 weeks now) I've been trying to understand all the technology and get it all set up and working the way we want it. Its our first VAG car, so having to learn everything from scratch - as you say, the owners manual is poor (with several errors that I've found so far). The infotainment is also meant to have the manual loaded onto it, but if that's the case I'm at a loss to find it. The good thing is that I've successfully set up Skoda ID's for the wife and I, got Connect up and running and paired the keys to the accounts under the personalisation option we took. Must admit as we both use the car, so frequently swap over, its nice to open the car with our 'own' key which then makes seat, mirrors and some infotainment settings to adjust to our individual positions. I'd say the whole set-up process was difficult for me and I'm quite tech savvy - pity those that are less so! The hackneyed phrase RTFM doesn't really apply here, given that, at times, the manual in itself poses more questions than it answers! Maybe I should follow suit and write the 'Dummy's Guide to MY21 Columbus'. Looking at other posts, it seems the dealers themselves often struggle keeping up to date with all the ins and outs of the Infotainment etc. - our guy was as helpful as he could be given a Lockdown 2.0 click & collect handover, and to his credit said he'd happily help further if we phoned him as and when we came up against obstacles. Maybe new car handovers are more comprehensive in normal (non lockdown) times? Cheers.