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Well today it was 30C here in sunny Devon and I've changed my mind - the Climate control is Cr*p! Quite prepared to admit I was very wrong! Hopefully this might help someone ...... What I did discover is that if you close the rear centre vent and pop the recurculate on it makes the world of difference (only applicable if you only have front seat passengers so not useful in many cases). It was a real revalation. All those who have only front seat occupants might want to try that as it was night and day. Having full climate control the system could have been designed to mean that you should not need to do that (in theory) but the car does not take account of the fact that no-one is on the back seats and close/divert that vent exit. The manual intervention might be a real help to all those suffering and who want a good blast of nice cold air from the get-go. Good luck everyone. We might need all the help possible this week :-) Paul

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Your pads are 19.5mm thick so are the correct thickness, you haven't pushed the piston back fully. Try opening the bleed valve (11mm ring spanner) and you should be able to push the piston back with your fingers, the piston goes well back. Or you havent pushed the pad clips fully back into the piston when fitted, or put the wrong pad into the piston end (see below about clip identification) If your pads are near the limit (under 3 or even 4 mm) you risk a failing the MOT. In practice, an MOT tester has limited time and often cannot or will not measure pad thickness accurately, they will simply look at it and use their judgement. If the disc is badly lipped and/or grooved with the pad sitting snugly in the grooves, it may appear to him the pad is too thin and simply will fail it. They cannot risk passing what is now classed a dangerous fault (you wont be able to drive the car away legally until its fixed if that's the case). It wouldn't surprise me if the MOT tester fails it for having obvious mixed pads as an unsafe or dangerous modification 1.1.21 (d) Braking system component modification: (i) unsafe (ii) adversely affecting braking performance Major Dangerous Old pads and discs probably are worn unequally across a face with grooves/ridges/unequal thickness from hub to edge. The pad you move to a different position with not mate with the new disc face. So you will have a significant imbalance left/right until all pads bed back in, which at best will take a long time as worn pads are much harder than new at worst will never bed in. Not sure how an old pad reacts to having to work (hard) in the opposite direction its been used before, many materials tend to develop a direction memory. 30% imbalance = major 50% imbalance = dangerous Too risky. Do the job properly and change all the pads. If you cant do it, get someone who can. An hours labour at most independents or quick fit type places if they will accept you supplying your own pads. Note: Not sure what disc size you have, but on our bog standard Octavia with 280mm discs, (FSIII) the 4 pads may look at first glance identical, but are in fact two sets of 2. The spring clips on the backing plates are slightly different depending on whether its fitted on the piston side or the outer side. Get them the right way round otherwise ime you'll find your brakes develop an annoying squeel! In the pic below the one on the left with the curved clips on all 3 prongs is the piston side.

Went out for a trundle on my new to me scooter. Had a freeloader weighing me down: Saw a beautiful slow worm safely from one side of the Cuckoo Trail to the other: Big shoal of little fish: And more geese than I've previously seen at this spot. Think they were hungry so I didn't stay too long, in case they got any Hitchcock-esque ideas: Gaz

Just as an afterthought for anyone and everyone reading; the current MOT test manual can be viewed online. All via one or other link here https://www.gov.uk/topic/mot/manuals

I disagree, bring back the numbers, it's no bad thing to know which gear you are in. As for the paddles, again, I disagree that they are superfluous . The box might be quick (sometimes not so quick, especially when it predicts the next change should be up and I want down) but the ability to choose the right gear for an upcoming manoeuvre and get the measure of how much oomph is available under my right foot is something I like.

So when I ordered the Enyaq back in March, the dealer took a gamble on allowing me to do so without committing to an order without a test drive. We've known each other and I've been buying cars from him for 21 years so there's a degree of trust there but still I wasn't sure when I started the test on Satruday night whether I would be happy with the car. After all, I've come from driving a Tesla Model 3 which is supposed to be the best EV out there. So on Saturday I was handed the key to an Enyaq 60 iv, ie the 58 kWh version, so it has a battery that's 11 kWh bigger than my model 3 but it's less efficient. On Saturday evening it was 11 degrees and returned around 3.8 m/kWh on a mix of motorway and A roads. On Sunday it was about 16 and it returned 4.5 m/ kWh (anythign above 4 is pretty good, but the Tesla used to give above 5 as it is a ridiculously efficient car). Bottom line, wow it's a good car. It's a real step up from the ID4 which I tested previously. The infotainment is fast and snappy and the 13 inch screen is really clear. It's not a rocket ship like a model 3 but it's got that noitcable ev punch that makes it feel faster than an ice car. And it's incredibly quiet. Noticeably quieter than the model 3. I only covered around 100 miles so I've not had masses of experience with it yet but the stand out feature for me is the adaptive regeneration. A lot of the reviews have said there's no one pedal driving. But the car reads the road ahead and works out whether it's best to coast or whether you need stronger regen. It works really well. It spots roundabouts and traffic lights and beefs up the regen accordingly. It does the same if there's a speed limit sign. It even spotted a 20mph sign where I was having to go through the central reservation into a contra flow. The car slowed automatically to 20mph. Very impressive. The two annoying features I found were there's no battery percentage, just a miles guesstimate (which seems very accurate thankfully). No matter where you look all you can get is the guesstimated range and a battery graphic showing how many bars of charge you have. And when you're charging it doesn't tell you what kW rate you're getting from the charger, just how many mph are being added. There's an app you can use to tell you this but I didn't set all that up for a test drive. It's bizarre that the sat nav shows you ev chargers and petrol stations though, maybe it's because they always have a shop you might want, or air for your tyres. I mainly used Google maps though. Or waze. I really just tried the car system for completeness. The voice commands were fine when using google but the Skoda ones (aka Laura) were a bit more slow and ponderous. Whereas with google you say "hey google, navigate to X", with the Skoda one you say navigate to X and she says "ok what's the city", then "what's the street" etc. It all worked way better than the system in the Tesla but I think I'll stick with Google unless I'm adjusting the aircon etc. So am I sold? Totally. It's comfy, quiet, has a huge boot and it's smaller than my model 3. It's got a 9m turning circle, close to a London taxi turning ability. My car has had lots of options selected whereas this one had nothing, it's the plain £32k car with zero options. If anyone is looking for a hatch back ev this is well worth a look. The dealer said that the Renault dealer next door remarked that this is just a couple of thousand more than a zoe, and went away looking worried 😂. I'll let you know yes it goes when my actual car arrives and I can play with things like the HUD. And as for the supercharger shot, it was juvenile but we were passing by and.... 😎

I’d report the call to 999 to Skoda, if anything is going to give them a kick up the arse it’s peoples cars calling the emergency services and wasting their time. If the call couldn’t be cancelled the time wasting is Skoda’s fault

Depends on the age - (for 2013 to 2016/7) if you go for a SE-L and above spec, they generally come with Bi-Xenon headlights with AFS (although they don't always). Most VRS models come with Xenon headlights. If you have a 2017-2020 model, then LED's were standard on high-end models (SE-L and above). Depends on mileage - if you do a few miles/kms, then go for a 2.0 TSI engine - 190bhp version. If you do lots of miles, go for a 2.0 TDI (184bhp model). The 150bhp is a bit gutless (unless you have a mild driving style). They all come with manual 6 speed gearboxes up to 2016/7. For cars between 2013 and 2017/8, they come with a 6 speed DQ250 box - 2018-2020 comes with a 7 speed DQ381 box (better option).

Only on cars with A/C I think. Just for reference.

You're welcome to disagree but you'd be wrong. So there's that.

Thank you, just trying to decide what car to get, big estate, so Octavia or Superb?

The viscosity is guaranteed to be suitable by the given oil meeting the relevant VW group spec. A 2006 car will not be compatible with 508 00 or 509 00 specs (which is what you mean by 0W20 I guess?). It's tempting to think that higher number VW spec means better, and assume backward compatibility, but neither is necessarily true.

Thank you for the inspiration!

I wonder, are we addressing the correct problem in the key? This describes like an ignition switch failure.

That would be “ simply clever “

You, and your car are part of the traffic. Some of the traffic is going the same way as you, some is going the other way. It’s all “traffic”, and it’s all (in Cyprus) on the left.

Interesting statement on aircon usage here:

I know when I have been monitoring with VCDS I could not force the evaporator temp to get to zero, for the same reason you cannot select cooling on AC when the temp approaches zero. There is a compressor cut off code in VCDS for a defrost cycle.

Keep the theories coming The blank field for the trailer load clearly has not rung any bells with people in their flights of fantasy. They are blank field with the values to be inserted either during the configuration of the vehicles modules (in this case the instrument module) or to be done from the user menu or VCDS etc, they are not parameters measured by the vehicle.

Nice one, I miss Darth 😊

Fixing a fault is an entirely different matter to adding something to a car that was never there to begin with. When there's a fault, everything the dealer does is guided by the software, using 'Guided fault finding'. They just have to follow the process laid out by the software. I'm not saying it's impossible for a dealer to do this (though it might well be), but I do think it is highly unlikely that they will do it. Please report back though. This kind of issue comes up now and again and we rarely get to hear what the final outcome is.

VCDS would presumably offer a compressor shut-off code if you logged the relevant measuring block at a time when it had shut down Or tell you that the compressor hasn't been shut down if it hasn't.

Someone who would look to see why the pads wont go into place, someone who is not going to hammer them into position, grind them down or mix old and new pads putting the old in different positions.

In sportmode you really hear the turbo. I guess🤣

Thanks so much , there’s one for sale right now so I’ll grab it

Had something similar on an old Octavia when we went to France, stopped to go to services, realised it was dripping when returning to car, as little wet patch on car park, looked at it and saw condensation had frozen around it. You could actually see a white frost on the unit. Once it melted it was fine, and worked fine next journey. I suspect there was some sort of blockage (possibly a sticky flap), but never really found out as it was August and never had very hot weather again before I sold the car.

Door/window oddities won't be relevant to the blower fan, nor will the recirc flap motor, which has probably failed on the majority of mk1s still on the road, unless it's been replaced since build.

The 2 items above your head could be movement sensors for the alarm system!

I’ll push hard to ensure my warranty remains unaffected if I go via third party or I’d be wanting a far larger compensation. but surely they have the technical know how to do it as what if there was a genuine fault with those modules. They would have to test each one and replace anything faulty including updating any software issues

Because an MOT "don't care" is either a pass or a "not tested".

Our old Octavia did that a few times... It was a sticking climatronic flap but a flap reset sorted it. Not sure how you do that on a superb though...

He won't care because he wont fail it, the answer to your question was "no!"

I have do a research of this.. I think car have this function. This function works if car have blind spot detection. And works with both sensors…parking sensors and blind spot sensors.. A component of Blind Spot Detect is the Rear Traffic Alert function, a first for SKODA. When reversing out of parking bays which are at a ninety degree angle to the road, the system recognizes vehicles approaching from the sides. An acoustic signal warns of an impending collision. In addition, the ‘critical side’ is shown on the infotainment display. The brakes are automatically applied if necessary. Can somebody confirm that?

Nobody expects clarity and openness from VW group on the subject of engine oil, do they?

What's probably happened here is that the discs have a rusty lip on the O/D and inside where the existing/old pads have been. The old pads will be worn so they fit between these lips where the new ones will be sitting on them (or trying to). File the rust down and the pads will likely go in. Edit...Or, you bought the pads from ECP and they sold you the wrong ones for the car?

54mm is much more than a pad thickness could be, except maybe on a train.

How old is that?! It mentions CCMC PD-2; CCMC was replaced by ACEA in 1996!

225/55r17 are ok on 7JX17 ET40 Stratos and 7.5x17 E45 AVUS Racing AC-515 Felgen black

I think the cross over was around MY18.5. And for what its worth, the part numbers remain the same, so they are the same wheels.

U should have no scrubbing issues @Awesam with 10mm spacers on ur 18s. 19" rims with 235/40R19 tyres, lowered 20mm, with 15mm spacers (F&R) = no scrubbing at all. 19" rims with 245/40R19 tyres, lowered 20mm, with 15mm spacers (F&R) = slight rubbing at the rear only. No issues with the fronts. Rear with 10mm spacers doesn't having scrubbing issues.

Have a 2006 2.0TDI BSS Elegance here on 272,000 miles. DPF long removed and oil pump replaced a couple of times by previous owner. Car is driving perfectly with a few small issues - puff of blue smoke now and again when taking off, typical interior lights stopped working along with boot light etc pulled the carpet back and the wires are damp and some blue corrosion. Looks like someone has already been in there before. Bodywork isn't in the best shape either, but the car is driving perfectly and still in great shape inside, impressive considering most of the miles are taxi miles. It has been remapped recently too and now pulls really well.

I'm sure you have a cop or two in the Netherlands who can hold your phone when you do a drive by.

It can be configured in setting you get the option of all stations or just the preset.

Have a search on the forum Paul it’s been covered loads.

Hey Martin, check my earlier pix, I had a shiny bumper topper already fitted when I got my car. Opted for black to give the monochrome look. Some others here have opted for a clear sticker, which I'd certainly consider if the bumper on mine wasn't already scored.

I had this issue. I posted on it a few weeks ago. I started making a log of faults. I had problems on every journey Double clicking from dash, sos system fault message, sat nav, acc issues. Then it stopped! Not had a problem for nearly 2k miles. The only thing I did between it constantly faulting and working fine was let a load of air out of the overinflated tyres (tip on this site re poor pdi’s for new vehicles). Coincidence surely? I’m beginning to love the car now. (2.0 tdi 150 SEL hatch, averaging 60mpg since new)

Yes, that was my understanding too. Not super concerned about a parking mode as I tend to avoid car parks and parking in town where possible so I think a parking incident is reasonably low odds for me. I've already got my radar detector hard wired in so don't really want to run another power wire up the pillar and headlining and I don't think I'm clever enough to somehow splice into the power feed for the radar detector as it's a phone type cable with RJ45 plugs. The way the cops are here the radar detector is a higher priority than the dashcam. It's pretty easy to exceed the 100km/h speed limit here in the vRS! It is a shame that Skoda didn't have the option of the USB socket on both sides to cater for different markets, it seems to be a bit of an oversight in a car that has so many neat little features.

Hello from Bucharest, Romania! Car ordered on 2nd February, 1 week before Meteor grey color ban. Car delivered after 16 weeks on 25th of may.

True enough and I agree. Me and the wife have been driving VAG group cars at one point or another for probably a combined 30 years and, yes, VAG CS (not just Skoda) is not the best but the cars are generally solid and good value. ALL cars have niggles but the deiselgate scandal (and associated fix that caused loss of MPG and performance) + the DQ200 Gearbox + the 1.5TSI manual jerking and a few others dominate the forums a bit and are a bit scary. I have to remember that the posters on this forum only represent a very small percentage of owners and if you see a few complaints here it doesn't translate to a bad car. What is annoying is VAG apparent lack of ability and/or urgency to address the issues and leave some folk who have spent a lot of money on their pride and joy (in some cases) a feeling of abandonment or being stranded or a cludge of a fix that has left them with a car that is either a bit unsellable or no longer a pleasure to drive.