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Showing content with the highest reputation on 24/10/21 in Posts

  1. Quick update; put in the 15" AudioSystem ASS15 sub and placed the 8channel DSP. Wiring to be done and amplifiers placement👌🏻
  2. 2 points
    my brother in law bought one, friday evening! finally got shot of his pita insignia, 2 yrs after i told him get rid of it! its a 2021, ex demo with about 6000km on the clock. ive only driven it around the block here, and not looked into the spec etc, but... its comfy, well equipped, looks decent enough, boots pretty alright, though no Octy in terms of length. first time driving a BEV, its weird. he has the KERS at max, so wgen you lift off (at housing estate speeds) theres not much coastimg, it just starts to brake. gear knob is a dial, literally. twist to the left, reverse, neutral in the middle, drive to the right. didnt play with the infotainment or anything, and only got to do 50kph around the place, so no idea whats its like myself on a big fast road. 7yr parts and labour warranty, and hes booking in the home charger installation. couple of pics, i didnt take any of the outside... hes a fitness instructor, thus the "prowler" shoved into the back at the minute. ill keep up with him on how it goes, and what living with it is like, he did the maths and reckons hell save about 1900e in yr one against the diesel. plus he isnt turning the key wondering what will break today like i used to do with my inshi7nia..
  3. I prefer the 3door seats as they make it easier for cleaning under them 👍
  4. Well, I've gone & spent some more money on the car. I've just put in a set of Recaros from a Mk4 Golf. They're from a three door but they fit fine & I'm not bothered about the catches on the side of the seats. They were the best set I could find at the time & for 20 year old seats they are in good condition. There's minimal wear to the bolsters and I'm looking forward to not having to worry about the white inserts any more. I got them because the Skoda seats don't give me the support I need on longer journeys. Hopefully these will be better for my back & I'll not have to hobble across car parks any more after a longer drive. There's a small issue of a missing plastic part from the sliding mechanism but I've temporarily sorted it for now. I'll see how I get on with them & will probably sell the originals in the near future. Next is the door cards as they look terrible at the moment. I'm undecided about what to do so any suggestions are welcome.
  5. I've been noticing a Mazda colour of late that keeps catching my eye. I think it's called Soul Red Crystal & it looks amazing in the sun. Not sure about it on a Mk1 but it's definitely eye catching.
  6. 2 points
    For Park Assist to work it needs to be able to detect the vehicles alongside, hence the need for 4 extra sensors - 2 on each side by the wheel arches. I only rarely used Park Assist on my Mk3, but it did frighten my ex-SWMBO when I took my hands off the wheel and the wheel started whizzing round which made it worthwhile!
  7. How many trees would be needed to offset the journey
  8. I had a Jungle Green mk3 Cavalier... lovely colour, pearlescent - a bit darker than the Audi green iirc? I've seen pics of Race Blue mk1's. They do look nice imo but (also imo) not quite right.
  9. That's alright, because the logistics behind moving a full watering car in the boot of a car which has a tendency to lean well into corners doesn't seem like a good idea.
  10. West coast, St Phillans, just north of Largs. Couldn't pop round with a watering can could you? - there's a burn nearby. No taking any cuttings yet mind Gaz
  11. I got the mirrors from this website mate. https://thewingmirrorcompany.co.uk/searchresult.aspx?make=skoda&model=octavia&year=2000-to-2004&mtype=wing-mirror-glass,wing-mirror-glass-with-base Very well packaged and quick delivery also. I'd highly recommend having a good clear out behind those arch liners! I do like Race Blue but not sure whether it would like right on a MK1? As it's a colour I associate with the MK2 and a much more modern car. I fancy a change to green albeit a darker shade? Maybe Audi 'Cactus Green' or Vauxhall 'Jungle Green'
  12. 2 points
    Even the +100% Nightbreakers only actually give 10% better range. Attempts to "get better lights" by using fog lights just dazzle everyone except people following you (you included). Fitting LED lights or plasma discharge units is likely to break the law unless you also add headlight washers and automatic beam aimers, which is expensive. Auxiliary headlights can only legally be used at times when you can use main beam, so don't actually offer any benefit unless you mostly drive on quiet roads.
  13. 2 points
    Hi @BacktoaVRS, I fitted one almost 2.000 km ago and for the time being, so far so good. It's quite straightforward to install, for me the most tricky part was putting back in place the torx located in the bottom part of the muffler, I was afraid of dropping it inside the engine bay. Once in place, the rest is peanuts. No mapping needed, just plug and play, as @TheUltraRunner said, besides the increase of turbo blowing sound no noticeable power gain. You could go for a dyno run to test, but I think it is pointless. I see that the air intake system is already available to buy but, to be honest, for me makes no sense its installation before proper ECU remap. In the market we start to have a big bunch of hardware, I am still missing intercooler though, but without remap ...
  14. Suspect he is top dog!
  15. So Been a LONG time since i've updated this, but I still have my Octy. It has, however, changed (quite a lot!) See below recent pic: If people are keen, I can do a write up in more detail of what i've been up to. Essentially, the car is now a lot more fast road focused and running circa 240bhp.
  16. hi I recently couldn't figure out where to find the location of the alarm system/ siren on skoda octavia II (MK2) (1Z3) 2005 but now i can help you showing you step by step how i did it Here’s a link showing you how to do it but it took me time to figure it out. https://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/octavia-mk2/vehicle_electrics/electrical_system/lights_lamps_switches_inside_anti-theft_system/anti-theft_warning_system/removing_and_installing_the_hornh12/ How to remove anti-theft siren step by step __________________________________________________________ *Required tools -T20 screwdriver -6-8mm Iron Drill -13mm wrench -10mm wrench _________ – Switch off the ignition and all electrical components. The vehicle must not be locked via the radio control receiver of the central locking. - I also disconnected the battery – Remove the front right wheelhouse liner (passenger side)
  17. I bought dynamic ones off ebay, loads of videos on YouTube to guide you, simple job
  18. If the car was advertised and sold as having cruise control, and you bought it with the expectation that cruise control was going to make it easier for you to drive. I would reject the car and start searching again. Weather or not cruise control can or can't be retrofitted is not the point. The two main questions are why have they misrepresented the level of spec and sold you an unsuitable car and secondly why should you be expected to fund any retrofit. You require a car that suits your needs.
  19. Bet you carried them by the handles too! 😄
  20. 1 point
    You are correct. Timing belt only on later models 1.2 engine. Would be worth checking that the timing chain had received the update though.
  21. 1 point
    We did a lot of research on this very topic for our two Springers and came up with the system we still use now for our Border Collie. We chose it for control of the dog when travelling whilst allowing enough movement that they won't fret, together with good support for the dog and with particular attention to how the whole setup would both restrain and support the dog in the case of a rapid decelleration in the event of a "Code Brown" moment. I'm not being deliberately mysterious but it's too dark for decent piccies and I can't remember the brands, so I'll take a proper look tomorrow and post FYI.
  22. 1 point
    My ancient engine diagnostics that haven't been use for decades suggests something major like a failed piston ring or even a small hole in a piston.
  23. Muddy, slippy and the FC tearing up the singletracks 🙁 Another one for you Mac... only goes to the Grey box and the same the other side 2 bikes to clean now.... The sheep poo from August BH is starting to smell 😀
  24. 1.4TSI output is the same on paper, and i dont believe it has any internal changes either. Might have some small adjustments on the mapping. Electric engine is the same, its just mapped to produce more power. Not sure how long can it produce more power.
  25. Well, that’s probably the problem. The Haldex system needs regular services and probably more regularly than the 3 years Skoda state. It also needs the pump filter cleaned as well as oil change. Mine failed @ 14,500 miles.
  26. 1 point
    Only if you have the right kind of left-hand mirror I believe... such as the ones fitted to Editions with powered seats as they need the hardware to remember the settings for the saved seat positions. There have been other threads where people have found that even after coding the software to provide the dipping function it doesn't work without changing the actual mirror. Chris
  27. Yes bud that's the one. Found this lovely Vectra GSi which looks awesome in that shade. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1998-S-Vauxhall-Vectra-B-GSi-2-5i-V6-24v-a-c-GSi-Phase-1-Immaculate-Car-/294411121928?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0 Works well with the black bumper/door strips which the MK1 has also.
  28. Ah yes, there are the more recent models with mib3. No other models do it.
  29. I may have misunderstood the above, are you saying you cannot connect wirelessly via AA in any Superb? Because you can, my Samsung A42 on Android 11 connects wirelessly to my Superb within seconds of me starting the car up. I only ever plug mine in if I want to charge the phone.
  30. Plug in your phone and slide down the notification menu at the top of the phone. It will tell you what the USB setting is currently set to and allow you to change the connection type. I can't remember the exact wording, but it should say something like it is set for data transfer or file sharing. That means you have a wired connection to the head unit. (You may still need to set AA up, if you haven't connected before, but it means you do have a data connection ready). One of the available options will be to connect for charging only if you so wish.
  31. No problems, the values that I had were from an article written by a VAG engineer that explained the whole process very well and I believe that they were much higher, however I am working from memory as the printed and laminated article is in France and I am in the UK. Your figure of 15g may be correct but your use of light, full and full hard regen is very confusing, I dont think a "Light Regen" exists in that at 9g the vehicle ECU commands an operation however Passive Regens occur at any time the driving conditions are correct, high speed/high load etc. At whatever the threshold is be it 15g or 25g an Active Regen is commanded, it is not a Full or Hard Regen, it is the one and only Regen that the vehicle does automatically. Beyond that if the driver has ignored the warnings and the vehicle goes into limp mode having hit the higher threshold there is a Forced Regen which has to be done by a dealer or garage/individual equipped with VCDS or similar. Plese feel free to correct me as I am still learning and there is a lot of inconsistent and incorrect stuff written on the subject, I still do not know for sure if the regen is triggered by the measured value (from DPF diff pressure sensor) or calculated values, my car appears to be the latter.
  32. That's more detail than I was willing to go into! The 1.2 Fabia has been given some of the 97 RON stuff from Morrison's the past couple of fill-ups, their "Super Fuel". My MPG is, on average, somewhere in the region of 40-48mpg depending on how I drive and if I'm going up hills a lot. I tend not to let mine go under halfway so it's usually about £30-£35 each time, every 2-3 weeks.
  33. I did my usual tank fill at Tesco Ayr for Momentum 99 on Thursday Early. So E5 148.9 pence a litre. £43. Still worth it with a Non Turbo IMO. Suzuki 1.6 Automatic. (Car loved it as it has been running on Girvan filling station 95 / E10 and getting 38 mpg. 143.9 pence a litre today i think.) It was into Scone Tesco for Momentum 99 on Wednesday afternoon 22.68 litre, £34, 149.9 pence a litre. 42 mpg from motorway and 60 mph roads. Then Sainbury Prestwick Wednesday night Super Unleaded 97 Ron Min / E5, 147.9, Got 41 mpg Scone to Prestwick. It was 46 mpg on the coast road South and A77 to Cairnryan . Back to getting 95 ron next time & until the car goes North again. If i use my Shogun it is 26 mpg regardless weather, and EV is still free electric & for one charge between North & South. Might need to pay to charge tonight in Edinburgh as all the Free Charge Place Scotland ones i use are showing faulty. IKEA @ 42 pence a kWh, so 10 kWh is £4.20 and that is just 30-35 miles. I need 25 kWh charge to get home. That is too expensive really & not something i want to be paying. Hopefully Straiton or Hermiston Free charging works or at Edinburgh Airport. Trying to travel for 'Much Cheapness' is getting to be a PITA. By Dunure to Ayr to avoid Maybole, horrible time just now with the By-pass roadworks, then A71 to avoid Glasgow later on.
  34. 1 point
    I'm coming from a Mark 1 so it might be completely different as I don't know what the headlights are like on the Mk3 and so on. However, I bought these Philips X-Treme bulbs to replace the candles in mine and wow, they're a lot better. These are the ones I bought, should your car take the H7 fitting then you're all good. I also replaced the H3s in mine, just to be sure.
  35. Let's hope Sparkgap reads this before before dismantling roof. Have you thought of sending message ?
  36. No adapter will help. It's a coding thing. It might be able to be hacked but it would likely cost as much as Skoda doing it while losing any warranty. Paying the dealer is the most efficient way.
  37. I am part time Sunny South Ayrshire and have been for 12 years. Currently sitting charging car at windy and rainy and warm Girvan Harbour. Still free thankfully. Each way is at least 145 miles depending on if going via A71 and Edinburgh to get Home or back. Doing that shortly so 165 miles. Done 900 miles in the past 5 days so far and half using petrol which is getting silly price wise.
  38. What about the other interior parts?
  39. 1 point
    A short term help for the leaky door carriers is to make "curtains" out of old plastic bags or similar. Looks like someone already had that on yours at some point due to the tape gunk left on the rear door cubbies.
  40. all fixed now. replaced the switch and had AA out to clear the fault
  41. That's quite harsh. I can think of several reasons why regular updates are useful. 1. You may be selling your existing car and need to get an idea of when you are able to. 2. You may be planning a holiday that requires the new car 3. You may be deciding to cancel if the car is not here by X date Etc etc I find myself in a fortunate position that I don't have to sell my car until the new one arrives. There are others who are in a different position. Even so, it's "nice" to be kept updated about the status of my order. Not essential, but nice.
  42. Whilst I agree with you, I can see that it makes some people feel a little more warm and fuzzy and like they're getting acceptable service from the dealer - haven't been forgotten, if you like.
  43. My Superb has decided to comit suicide! Traveling to work the other day I got a message flashed up on the dashboard with a large red oil can symbol and text indicating oil pressure issues. By the time I'd pulled up (on motorway) I could hear a noise under the bonnet which to my untrained ear sounded like turbo bearings. Had a word with the mechanic and he confirmed that there was an oil pressure fault, the turbo is most likely a gonner and most likely other consequential damage too. As the car is 13 years old and 120K miles on the clock it will not be economical to repair. Real shame as other than that the car is good, I was expecting at least another couple of years from it. To add insult to injury he told me the most likely cause is a pin/peg in the drive to the oil pump which have a habit of wearing so stopping drive to the 'heart' of the motor. I really wish he'd told me about this during one of the many services I've had with him over the past 41/2 years as I'd have performed a pre-emtive strike on it. Really sad Anyone with a similar aged car may want to take note - Mine is a 2008 with the PD engine which I believe is designated BMP, don't know if other engines are similar. Car is currently sitting on my drive and I guess I'm going to have to advertise it as spares or repair to be towed away which I'll do in the next few days but if anyone has any interest in it I'd be happy to hear from you. It's a 2008 140BHP TDI car in Elegance spec'
  44. Vw pretoria reps 18" 18x8 et45

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