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I hate to point this out, but all registration numbers are unique... that's kind of the point 😜.

I see your point, but the info is in official Skoda owner's manuals and does require access to the vehicle keys.

???. The vehicle key is still required to open the door, it's not like using a paperclip. Surely it's only a "potential security" if you lose your key in which case the vehicle is actually insecure? AndyW

This evening's sunset..............

Surely the OP's worry and nobody else's other than people in Serbia. Simple fix is ask a Skoda Dealership if they have any Transport Blocks they remembered to remove from new cars and fit those. Stiffens the suspension up a treat.

Lamentably crap picture, but here's my Race Blue L&K 2.0 TSi. Not necessarily a complete stranger to VAG cars, but this is the first Skoda I've ever owned. Once drove my uncle's Estelle way back in the day, but things have moved on a bit since then

Lovely autumnal day here now following torrential rain this morning

As long as to VW 508 00 / 509 00 you can nip to Asda, Tesco or anyplace with own brand. Comma, Quantum / Fuchs or anything. No need for Branded profiting because they spend more advertising.

Shambles Servers will be down from 25.1.2021 until 29.10.2021. Received this today after A) mobile lost connection to my in car B)Skoda Connect profile - I'm now a guest in my car as my primary profile is offline C) Skoda app offline I've had enough, modern cars are moving to this operating live connected manner but they should as per other tech brands apple, Google, AWS etc have a cascade multiple server system Along with everything else I've lost all looks on this car, and have asked for a serious conversation with Skoda UK as to what next, a year of nothing but Pfaff, when I'm driving I want to focus on driving not all this rubbish

Nice meeting you too!

Welcome to the forums, Ben! Fellow new-ish driver here, I passed in August.

It is not unusual for vehicles to have the fan run on for a few minutes after switching off the engine. This helps to cool the car and prevent engine damage.If as you say, everything works fine, perhaps you are seeing a fault when there isn't one!

Apparently there's a possibility of the Northern lights being visible in the UK tonight and tomorrow - I spent a while looking this evening and saw lots of stars, but nothing on the northern horizon sadly. https://www.metoffice.gov.uk/weather/specialist-forecasts/space-weather

Thanks for that info. In which case I may speak to Gendan, and ask why their instructions say the usb cable should work with XP.

@AnnoyingPentium Lets see in a few decades how you get on when easy in and easy out matters. Seats higher from the ground or floor & roofs higher from the floor is not a bad thing.

Sorry, my English is on the weak side, what OP means?

The problem will come when the suspension fully compresses and/or the steering wheel is turned to full lock. Having plenty of clearance is a good idea. That way, when you get some wear in the suspension components, perhaps wear in the wheel bearings/rubber bushes/ball joints/bump stops, etc., the tyres won't rip off the wheel arch liners or cause other serious damage.

No it's all behind that wall, but I find it quite a low one. If you look under the 'Individual vehicle information' tab, then 'repair info', you can get to info about absolutely anything to do with any Skoda model, in downloadable pdf form. With a bit of planning you'll probably have downloaded everything you can possibly imagine might be relevant before a 1 hour 'flat rate' session expires; connection/bandwidth and storage space permitting.

Pop the cover off, change the battery, test to make sure it works. All done. Should be a 2032 battery.

Cool thank you, one less thing to worry about.

Could be left alone it doesnt effect anything in the slightest.

This guy clearly doesn't mind getting his Aston Martin wet!

Mac works great for the navi card Update. So it may work.

Aside from meeting the VW specification (W508 00 I believe, for the 1.5tsi) what’s the best oil and seller? Would be easy to nip down to Halfords and buy a can of ‘xyz’ brand. But something tells me Castrol or Mobil 1 may be the better way to go. Suggestions/recommendations please… thanks.

https://scontent.flba3-2.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.6435-9/249665324_4696493547082400_75721649513455986_n.jpg?_nc_cat=106&ccb=1-5&_nc_sid=730e14&_nc_ohc=0YoOCzU-HD8AX-GMWLP&_nc_ht=scontent.flba3-2.fna&oh=8622b542fee5ffab0904eb699dd50db1&oe=61A144E0 not much to be honest on top of the 1750 they were already offereing..but then my golf was worth a fortune compared to 8 months ago when I last looked so its not suprising when second hand values are through the roof...,my part ex will go on their forecourt probably for more than I paid for it brand new 3 years ago which seems insane

When I dow nloaded only had the option of 2022, but noticed today they are both there, who knows what VW /Skoda are thinkin😉

Yes it is a TCE 90 a 2014 Clio Nav S, so the 17 inch wheels do not help but look good. One car rag did report a 10% fall in the mpg but that sounded extreme and has in an even older ie 2012 TCE I think. Car is due a service in a fortnight and will make sure it gets a new air filter which is a doddle to do if the garage does not do as part of their A minor service which I think is just oil and inspection. Air filter is only £8 so will pick one up and fit it, anything to help fuel consumption with fuel being so expensive.

Welcome to the forums!

It's a fad that'll probably die out in a wee while, with any luck.

Dual zone climate is standard only on the SEL. Monte Carlo trims are usually based on SE spec with some “ sporty” bits thrown in.

If the Battery is flat just use the key in the key hole provided for if the battery is flat. Then you can get in the car, get the owners manual out to read how to open the car if there is a flat battery and hopefully pull the bonnet release to open that. It is not Simply Clever just simple.

Must admit I wouldn’t be overly happy at this sort of potential security info being put on a public forum, even though it is in the manual.

I’m on the point of swapping my Superb Estate L&K for an Enyaq SportLine 80x in Arctic Silver. I ordered a 60 in mid August and was advised of a February delivery, the SportLine was set to be a showroom car but we worked round that and delivery could be as early as today. I test drove the fairly loaded demonstrator in July and was impressed by the overall quality of the car, and even on 21” rims the ride was very good. Looking forward to trying out the 80x with 265hp and 4wd!

Heh. Dunno where the difference comes from. Perhaps it has something to do with the added options. Could think that sportline is heavier than normal Style with all the extra plastic But some news. I drove the sportline you had. First impression: At first i was sure there was a loose tire.. what the heck is going on with the front wheels. After a while of driving the car reported loss of tire pressure. Corrected the pressures (front had less than rear) which made the car a bit more stable. Also i noticed that it had 17" winter tires already. That made the car alot worse after 18" / lower profile. If that would have been my first testdrive, i'd perhaps skipped octavia because of bad driving experience. DCC, it was definetely noticeable. On 80-100km/h speeds, the stiff settings brought all the small holes and un eveness of the road to my seat. With comfort, they were almost gone. Agreed by my GF and sister Also tried at mannerheimintie's rocky (cobblestone) road which had the most impact. Even my GF noticed a clear difference. From that test i'm pretty happy that i'm getting DCC with the 19" wheels. Funny things. After 10minutes of driving i had to call the dealer that does it really NOT have navigation. And yes. that's an option on sportline. Would think that'd be selected

So you own a Scala and you're asking a question about an Octavia on a Kamiq forum. Probably better to ask an Octavia question in the Octavia section of the forum.

I wasn't having a go at you, the 6.5mm is unusual usually 7-8mm I think, just a figure to show they're not all 8mm. My thought was that cheaper tyres don't bother so much with grip going for mileage which some prefer. Of course a cheaper tyre is actually more expensive if it doesn't do what you want and you have to replace it sooner. Many tyres can craze and crack from lack of use and get splits, the really cheap ones I've seen have cracks at the bottom of the treads, date of manufacture just about 3 years, but very low mileage use on them. Many people only know the big brand names to this country so may think other brands are small companies and inferior products (some are inferior but might be from massive companies). It depends on your use and driving style but a second level tyre brand (often owned by better known prestige brands) could well be a very good tyre but in "last season's" design or tread pattern. I've seen that perhaps it's the bigger brands changing their compounds more struggling to use different materials on ever wider tyres even on family shopping trollies that rarely get out of town or above 30mph and the roads are full of deep potholes where smaller wheels and more sidewall tyre depth would help. I'm not sure how you got to the overall of 23k though, surely (don't call me Shirley) given 2.5mm wear in 8,900 miles, if you took off another 2.5mm (assuming same wear rate to tyre) you'd be at 1.5mm left for less than 18k overall, unless I've missed something, as I often do. With all these fancy cars now I don't hear so many moans about not getting 45k miles out of a tyre, they're still there but not as much must be the work of all theses surface-dressing multimillionaire pushing council contracts. 😄

Cheeky shot of the Fabia featuring the Ailsa Craig...

The vRS is generally regarded by the muttering press as not a typical hot hatch, whatever the definition of that is these days. I'me excluding the likes of the Honda Fugly, Audi S3, Merc A45, and a Renault or two, all of which are in a different price bracket from (to?) the 245 vRS. And have ridiculous amounts of power. Better HH comparisons are the new BMW 128ti, Ford Focus ST, Hyundai i30N, Golf GTI, etc - all cars with around 250-280 bhp, and more importantly are compact hatchbacks. The extra length, wheelbase, and boot of the Octavia make it a very fast car more in the mould of a traditional GT - a Grand Tourer, designed to cover vast distances at high speeds in comfort. OK it's not a Bentley Continental, but among the cars I mention it's in a class of one. I did many long distance trips - 400 miles plus - four up with a week's luggage and my 220 vRS was perfect. It's certainly nowhere near the best for B road fun, it gives a fair showing on the winding A roads of Wales, and is as good on dual carriageways and motorways as the cars above. In short, it's not as chuckable as those others. But in its own way it's a thoroughly competent and enjoyable car. As others have said, try before you buy. (A final comment or two - all these front-wheel drive cars will suffer from wheelspin from a standing start, so you have to learn how to get a fast takeoff from traffic lights. Don't let that put you off the vRS. Oh, and get a petrol. It's not too thirsty, and better than the diesel - IMHO and experience, having driven my neighbour's diesel back to back with my petrol. The diesel's good, but the petrol's better.)

I am now using the cruise control like a hand throttle. Because it increments up or down in 1 or 5mph intervals I can set a precise speed according to road conditions. If I approach another vehicle, the ACC adjust the speed by using the regen braking to keep to a safe distance. Also, the roads round here are very hilly and winding when I get to within 20 miles of home, so if I set CC to the lowest setting of 20mph, then drive manually, when I'm either going downhill or approaching a speed limit, engaging cc applies an impressive amount of braking so I now hardly ever need to use the brakes. In fact, the wheels are very easy to keep clean as there is never any brake dust on any of the wheels.

Best car (if you can find it) is as follows: If you want an all-out performance, try and pick up a VRS 245 Challenge (rare as hens teeth). The 230's are still very rapid cars though.... If you want a DSG, go for a car after 2017/18, when you got the 7 speed DSG - which is a huge improvement over the 6 speed. If you want speed, but better fuel economy, then a VRS 184 TDI is where you need to go (you can still get 50mpg from a diesel VRS). Excellent revvy engines. I've owned two diesel VRS's and one petrol. All cars were excellent.

Full blown Winters, hence why they arent on the car just yet, I reckon they'll go on in a week or two though. I'll only be able to tell once they're on the car. Look like they'll be decent though.

Crossing a river without these new fangled bridge contraptions

I leased my 2018 245 estate for the first 2 years and then bought it from VW Finance because it is just a great family car for us. Carries bikes, a dog, kids, tows the caravan, tip runs, I've had several 2.4m loft boards inside etc. All while doing 155mph 😁 Also 40mpg+ is easily achievable. The above allows me to forgive the lack of sound insulation. There's no hiding how noisy it is on rough surfaces. I had a 1 series M Sport previously which was significantly more refined than the Octy. I'm still considering downsizing the 19" wheels in order to gain some reduction in road noise. Not the cars fault, but a 4x4 petrol option would have been nice.

There I would disagree. This is a classic over-inflation wear pattern.

My advice is to have a drive in one and see if you like it. I like mine and am on my third. But then I have a family so I need the large boot.

Good morning!

As a big fan of the Niva, I am happy to report I have seen one in a trailer for the new series of Top Gear

Thanks Del8oy Regarding locking the doors - my new fully charged new battery was flat when I returned a couple of weeks after replacing the original Varta battery. And it had been locked all the time. So whatever in the amplifier circuit is causing the drain did not go to sleep when the doors were locked. Just to be sure I charged the battery again and measured it over a four day period while it was parked up and the voltage steadily dropped by the end of each day. When it reached 12.0v I decided to diagnose (as well as having the battery checked by a garage with a Bosch BAT131 tester). Finally I had the car diagnosed by the Skoda dealer and they confirmed it was the amplifier circuit causing the issue. I did consider disconnecting the TV tuner but because the current drain stopped when the F18 fuse was removed and the TV worked on the Columbus headend with the fuse out I presumed it was not the TV tuner circuit causing the issue, In your case did pulling the F18 fuse stop the current drain?

I used to use a Thule rack and 9000 box that fitted to the towball, sold now. Child added for perspective.