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Came across a bit of a commotion in a neighbour's garden earlier. The crows and magpies in the surrounding trees were making a tremendous racket!! Certainly sad for the pigeon, but remarkable to see the the bird of prey in action close-up. Just a shame I didn't have my camera with me.

I bought my first Skoda back in June 2016, a Fabia III 1.2 TSI SE, which I still have and is going well. I have now added a 2018 Citigo SE to the family garage. Have been looking for one for a while and eventually found one that ticked the boxes. Several I had looked at before had a dubious history especially on the service front. Be careful out there when buying cars folks. 1 previous owner, full Skoda service history from the supplying dealer, clean MOT, good mechanical condition and in a nice colour. Picked it up last Sunday and drove the 120 miles home, better than expected on the motorways. Fitted 5 new All Season tyres on Monday, one to an ebay bought spare alloy wheel that is the same at the ones on the car. This fits straight in the boot with the tool kit fitting inside it just like the normal steel spare did. This was the first time that any of the wheels had been removed from the car including the spare. Replaced the locking wheel bolts with new normal wheel bolts and new wheel bolt caps to suit. The car came with one new full size summer tyre on the steel spare, two half worn rear tyres and fronts on 2mm and 3mm. So the 3mm has been fitted to the steel spare ( spare ) and I only need one new tyre in the spring for my summer set. The 2mm was thrown. Carpet mats fitted and upgraded the dipped beam bulbs for some Osram Night Breaker H7's. Did the same to my Fabia III. This car also needed the headlamp aim adjusted up just like the Fabia did. AC system regassed, this is the newer type R1234YF gas. 272 grams removed and refilled with 330 grams. This is a loss of about 18% from new in 3.5 years. I did the AC on the Fabia last Saturday, removed 375 grams and refilled with 450 grams. So a loss of about 18% with the older R134A gas but after 5.5 years. Today I stripped the brakes front and rear, cleaned, regreased them and refitted them. About 6 mm left on the front pads and the rear shoes hardly worn. Front mud flaps fitted with the rear mud flap to be fitted with plastic rear wheel arch liners next week. Exhaust pipe from cat was spray painted to protect it from rust with VHT ( Very High Temperature ) paint. Cheapest car in the family to insure but the most expensive to tax. Next MOT and service not due until the spring when I will swap back to the summer tyres. I have driven it all week and have done 350 miles already. Half joked that this will be my daily driver from now on, instead of the Fabia. Impressed. 😁 Thanks, AG Falco

Today's job was to pull out the carpets with the assumption that they were where the musty smell was hiding. But once they were out and thoroughly sniff tested, they smelled fine. So back in they went. The car is actually smelling better since the head liner came out, and that has some light dusty mould on the back. So I'm now thinking that the slight sunroof leak has been keeping that damp, and it has been retained in the hardboard backing.

Colourful waning gibbous this evening.........

Cheers all, should be a big update next week weds as I’m getting the up gti doner, plans are to swap bits over but to keep her running as is over winter then early next year I’ll be swapping the engine box wiring etc

@varaderoguy _ I just read this thread. The instructions for a headlight bulb change on a Honda Jazz read:_ Put the steering on full lock and remove the wheel arch liner. Working inside the arch... I stopped reading at that point and decided to not offer my old +30% bulbs to my sister!

Took my head liner and sun roof into #kohlrodandcustom to talk about re-covering them. The vinyl is sagging in the back so it needs sorting. Interestingly my car was built in December 1984 but my sun roof was made in 1986. The mysteries of old cars!

Exhaust flaps are gonna be unrelated. what’s the mileage? I’m wondering if the manifold and Intake tracks are coked up with carbon a bit

There's two winter packs, similar codes, the wrong code was applied to my car. Human error at the dealership. I've been refunded the difference and compensated adequately. I'm satisfied with the situation and thank everyone with their advice and pointers.

No. You’ll need to set it using VCDS or similar.

Seat Alhambra is a not the most aerodynamic car ever built either is it Root, it just shows you ay mate.

All check your PMs

That it is! a 2016 Laureate... Didn't notice it on test drive and driving 30 miles home but once the cold kicked in, it started. Its not too bad and you can get round it by adding a little gas and moving off, then get off the clutch quick. The Fabia needed no gas and just went off and would plod at 5MPH, without gas imput so really, I just need to drive it like a petrol, not a diesel! Oh, I also had dual controls fitted and initially thought they must have fitted them wrong but on the Dacia forum, it seems it is a known issue! Sometimes a proper fault but usually driving style.

Hi All I havent been here since I had a Mk2 Superb Elegance Since then Ive had an Opel Insignia which I was quite fond of but changed it in for an Audi A4 Ultra SE Sport which i hated. So it wasnt long before I was looking to change again So I organised with my local dealer to import this L&K Superb estate for me. [url=https://flic.kr/p/2kWdBLm][img]https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51153023576_ae43b3efae_b.jpg[/img][/url][url=https://flic.kr/p/2kWdBLm]IMG_20210422_130507[/url] by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/niallsaviation/]Niall Moran[/url], on Flickr The day it arrived on these shores I was informed that I was being made redunant, So after many nights trying to justify the argument to still take the car I decided to let it go. So a few months later while still in Audi ownership I spotted this for sale at a Skoda Dealership at an amazing sale price so i went for it. Its not an L&K but it still has alot of toys and full leather. Plus its not a 2.0 which I no longer need but a 1.6 Diesel so suits my needs better [url=https://flic.kr/p/2mo5kDT][img]https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51445637377_8daae7f371_b.jpg[/img][/url][url=https://flic.kr/p/2mo5kDT]IMG_20210907_124443[/url] by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/niallsaviation/]Niall Moran[/url], on Flickr [url=https://www.flickr.com/gp/niallsaviation/dZd910][img]https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51692497786_992467f9de_b.jpg[/img][/url][url=https://www.flickr.com/gp/niallsaviation/dZd910]IMG_20211120_130052[/url] by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/niallsaviation/]Niall Moran[/url], on Flickr

No it's not good, that's gross exaggeration, what we call in this country "willy-waving" - penis waving, look at me, my car is louder, more expensive than yours, therefore I as the owner must be better than you. Same as the long bonnets on cars are known as "penis extensions" for various meanings. Those cars have deliberately loud exhausts from the manufacturers and often made even louder by some owners. Of course we all show-off at times just some much more than others and some in more anti-social ways than others. I have an exhaust that is too loud so I am not innocent.

Thank you @roottoot, tyre pressures are ok , I just had 4 new tyres fitted when I got the car, air filter is ok and spark plugs are also ok. Tha car has had 30k miles when I got it. The tank was brimmed and I used the car in ECO mode for 90% of the time (10% in sport mode). I just refueled today (asda petrol) the tank was almost dry (15 miles range left) and the tank drank up 67 litres of petrol. I do not push the car hard in eco mode, I drive it normally. @paddywack1878thank you for the comment, before this I had a sluggish 16 year old car, so I wanted something snappy and with more power. To be honest I do not want to change it to a hybrid, nor for any other car, I like my ‘new’ superb, it is my dream car so the problem is with the distances that I drive? This is why I get these dissapointing fuel consumption numbers?

195/65R15 and 205/55R16 are both Golf/Octavia sized tyres. People sometimes buy secondhand Golf MK4 6Jx15 ET38 alloy rims fitted with 195/65R15 tyres for their Fabias. I haven't heard of anyone that hasn't had problems with rubbing. 205/55R16 would be even worse as although it has the same outside diameter it's 10mm wider and uses less offset. You will only know for sure if you don't have a rubbing problem if you have tested the car in all conditions, with the suspension being fully compressed. Fitting tyres with little to no clearance is a bad idea. Sometimes you might not get rubbing in a straight line, but rubbing could occur under cornering forces such as driving around a roundabout or when there's a heavy load.

more like some 3rd party repairs after a front end colission!

Hi @pab567, Can you please help me with an update for my Amundsen MIB2 unit? I think last version is 0480? Thanks,

Here are a photo of how you throttle should like as clean:

FWIW, just noting Karoq does well in the latest JD survey - that get's reported in Autoexpress - coming 5th from top, right up there with Far Eastern cars. The only European car to do better is a Porsche at no2 & no sign of Lexus in the top 10 these days, no 13 the best one of them can do. They sum up the Karoq saying there are no downsides to speak of. The Kodiaq comes 6th, slightly better for ride/handling (maybe DCC is more common on this car) & for reliability, but marked down for economy. Interestingly the Vauxhall Grandland is 7th & the Volvo C40 8th. The SEAT Ateca does well too at 10th place (aren't they made by Skoda?). I recall the Yeti used to do well in older JD power surveys, but so did Lexus cars generally. https://www.autoexpress.co.uk/best-cars/driver-power/95238/best-cars-to-own-driver-power-results https://www.whatcar.com/news/25-most-unreliable-cars/n18546 At the opposite end - the least reliable 25, there's a good smattering of Land/Range Rovers, UK made Nissans, a few Audis, Jags, Vauxhauls, Peugeots & VWs + the Fiesta, Merc A class (actually did well last year) & a Porsch, but not a Skoda in sight. https://www.autoexpress.co.uk/volkswagen/tiguan/353326/new-volkswagen-tiguan-ehybrid-2020-review While Skoda are seemingly mainly concentrating on mild hybrids for now with their IC car range, VW seem to be getting into PHEVs in a big way. Maybe Skoda will follow in a year or two, just letting VW sort out the wrinkles. (As an aside, Skoda seem to be important to VAG as I note a week or 2 ago, VAG share prices rose somewhat, after it was announced that Skoda had reopened production lines, having aquired enough chips & parts to complete their cars). Anyway' the Tiguan PHEV interested me, particularly as Autocar commented on its low road noise. It seems to use an Eco 1.4 4cyl producng only 130hp, but of course boosted by the elec motor to get it to 60mph in only 7.5secs. Autoexpress got 44mpg after they drove one for almost 700miles - good for such a fast car in the hands of a mag test driver, not driving frugally & better than they got with the 2.0D + it's more refined. I see it's actually no wider than the Karoq, though probably taller & heavier and probably still feels 'bigger' to drive - the Karoq does to me feel surprisingly & welcomingly 'small' to drive for it's size and after all, there is that good JD rating to factor in, the Tiguan only coming in at no 62. Are VW slowly abandoning the 1.5? - whether the 1.4 has the cylinder shut down as in the 1.5, I don't know. https://www.volkswagen.co.uk/en/new/tiguan.html#hybrid

http://bbc.co.uk/news/technology-59357306 The trouble with modern tech is it can go wrong. Carry your keys, carry cash and ride a bike or skateboard / kick scooter, horse / donkey / camel or walk if needs must.

Even an efficient diesel will be pushed to hit 11p a miles under the current price of diesel ie as my Fabia 3 1.4 90 hp is doing with its 62 mpg but on a run it would get under 10p a litre but I find I can only get that 70 to 80 mpg on runs of 50 miles or over when one can overcome that first 5 mile leg that the diesel is in reality on doing 40 mpg or so ie until it gets up to temperature and gets worse as the temperature drops as well as the winter fuels anti coagulant additive which lowers calorific value. Always think that one should add in the 5 litres of engine oil that one has to change every 10k or so as well that adds a few tens of pence per mile as it seems the principal cost of a minor A service. Max is in the UK and Pro due here shortly. Could work as Home backup, part of solar equipment and take away out on journeys. fast recharge too.

I absolutely love the idea with the seats swap. This is something I was considering myself. I will keep an eye on this thread as it may come up with some great ideas 😀

Always like the RAC but a few little comments. I would be ashamed to need a charge from them but I suppose it might happen with some bad luck on faulty public chargers etc. 3.6 Kw is a bit girlie for a rescue. Octopus is 17% cheaper than RAC lecky. What I would hope rescue service woud use are these but they are only just starting to come out in the UK......

Basing the the UK Average petrol car fuel use on 10 miles per litre so 45 MPG might even be too high, 222 Gallons a year over 10,000 miles. (1,100 litres @ 135 pence = £1,485) Even 40 mpg average might even be high for those that only average 27 miles per day. Those that can get 53 mpg from a tank fill might just as well stick using their ICE unless they are using cheap or free electricity when getting an EV IMO.

It's simple on modern cars like the Fabia, particularly with the over-complicated VAG computer programs (I wonder why that was done) the computers are in charge and they want their (battery, clean and clear) power and if they don't get enough of it to satisfy them they will communicate with each other and gang up together and make you realise they control everything. But even on cars with less electronics or no electronics at all the battery and all its electrical cables/wires and connections are very important to getting the car started and keeping it running. Look up the number one cause of breakdowns (in UK at least) and these will be even more prevalent now the long nights and colder weather (and the wet) are here car battery sales (many of them totally unnecessary) will increase greatly at this time of year, many times just recharging the battery would have prevented the breakdowns, and unnecessary new battery purchase. If a car won't start the first things you check are the battery and if fuel is getting to the engine (is there fuel in the tank!), see No. 1 (batteries are very rarely faulty in themselves, owners make them so) and No. 9. - https://www.theaa.com/breakdown-cover/advice/top-ten-breakdown-causes

same engine, heres a screen shot for you of mine, oscillates between the same values as you mention Screen shot from VCDS ADVMB. and with Air Mass actual and specified. Regards

@CageyH I live in France too. Like you, I have 19" summer wheels. I've chosen the winter tyres (on 17" alloy rims) option from the very beginning I got my Mk3. I go to winter sports once a year, and often go to mountains for Xmas holidays. Besides, I regularly face temperatures below 7°C, since I live in 'Ile de France', which is for sure colder than Toulouse area , Thus, much more 'interesting' for me to invest in winter tyres, which definitely let me feel safer, when temperature drops down.

I feel the same way love my mk1 , i too have the milotec splitters and kept the none wide mouth look as so subtle , fitted the milotec rear and still unsure 😛

With a computer. No, really. You need something like VCDS or OBD11 and are looking for a setting called something like "going home lights".

I have OBDeleven Pro and have been able to change Lane Assist to "Last setting" I did this manually through the long coding so now one of the annoying pre-flight checks is eliminated ! Driver assistance (Module A5) this module is NOT protected by SFD so should be possible to change using any tool which supports long coding. long coding Configuration for lane departure warning KI15 change to "last setting" Don't forget to open the bonnet otherwise you cannot save the setting. The other setting I would like to change is the "Driving mode" to remember the last setting, despite extensive googling it does not seem to be possible, unless anybody knows different ? As a comment about these settings always reverting to the default after engine restart, I read online that “Lane Assist” is to be installed on all new cars from 2022 and is a "safety" system, my experience of this is its fine on the motorway but on small twisty country roads it’s a dangerous nightmare which needs to be turned OFF, I fail to see that people trying to turn off Lane assist whilst driving can be classed as "safety" improvement. The same goes for the "Driving mode" changing this requires even more button and touchscreen presses and requires taking your eyes off the road. Bring back the system in older cars where the settings are remember, with my last Octavia I set the “Driving mode” to “Individual” once when I got the car and never touched it again, this new one I am doing it every restart and not always before driving off !

As an additional point, these can be screwed up then backed off a 1/4 turn when fitting as this will still hold drum in position - just ensuring head stays under the drum face. The drum is positioned on a drum to hub spigot.

I know roottoot, why I prefaced my note with FWIW, but still worth mentioning the survey & bearing it in mind - anyway, more or less reflects my experience running a Karoq 2+ years. But you're right, I've certainly never took part in any survey.

I can live with one rear fog light (but would prefer two especially when in continental Europe), but am disappointed with one reversing light - especially as the second appears to be physically there. Seems odd not to enable it. It appears there isn’t a fault with my car, but they are configured with one of each.

This is a Superb Mk3 picture thread, isn't it? Or is it slowly changing into a 'rim thread'? 😜

Looking good so far.

Ooh sounds interesting.

Mine were pretty bad when I came to change mine but I found a good large punch give them a few hits eith that snd hammer and they shock loose as not a very tight screw anyway

I can understand your concern... but as I don't drive that often at night nowadays, I haven't experienced the same situation. I know that if the Stop/Start is activated, the engine will restart if the battery voltage drops too much, and will do that in daytime if the aircon is running for instance. So presumably your car was seeing the battery voltage dropping because the alternator at tick over wasn't generating enough power to match the load of the headlights, radio, heater etc. Perhaps you were using more accessories such as heater, heated seats/windscreens etc than you were in the summer? Otherwise I suppose it may be an early warning that your battery is holding a charge as well as it used to?? Chris

Not mine but here’s one to get things rolling.

I’ve made a thread now cheers for reply’s

We had a similar problem with my daughter's FII. Her car had the problem in the passenger door. I left a thread on the Fabia forum part. You can take the door lock apart and swap too little micro switches around. The micro switches get worn out over time. You can swap them because the two use oposing contacts inside. Or you get a new lock off ebay or from elsewhere.

Another good reason for me to stay up here in North Yorkshire away from any sort of ULEZ area. We're about 20 years behind the rest of the world so I have a while yet to enjoy the car. 😄

Thank you. It's a work in progress and will never be perfect but it scrubs up quite well. I'm determined to enjoy it before cars like this are killed off through legislation etc. I get a lot of pleasure from driving the car, from making small changes and from not confirming to join the SUV masses that fill most driveways on our street.

That's Ok; my suggestion was to set up a backup system, not a mail server. See Backup for further information.

I though that maybe the motors had been damaged when taking off needles as it took a lot of leverage with the forks (good idea the forks ) Getting it down to a fine art now , takes about 5mins to remove instrument panel and 5 mins to strip. The needles centre were just too close to the white diffuser shield .Been pushed too far on. Raised them a fraction and alls well. The biggest problem I found was getting a soldering iron with a small enough point to melt the solder without melting the SMD led when fitting the new ones. Had to modify my smallest tip which did the job. 10 SMD off ebay @£1.70, cheap enough to melt them . Could not have done it without my magnifying lamp.

Different engine injection system. Regarded as a better diesel engine especially with extra pollution gear and dpf management.

So Been a LONG time since i've updated this, but I still have my Octy. It has, however, changed (quite a lot!) See below recent pic: If people are keen, I can do a write up in more detail of what i've been up to. Essentially, the car is now a lot more fast road focused and running circa 240bhp.

I just read how well the Octavia has done in the JD Power dependability survey over the last few years , winning in 2019. My question is, given the widespread tales of woe relating to the DSG gearbox and the TSI engines kangarooing, including attempts to reject cars, how the hell did Skoda manage it?. It's all very contradictory.