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Nearly 4 years ago, having collected my Superb Sportline Estate 184 TDI DSG I joined these forums to learn about my car. I learned a lot, a lot from searching through the many threads and I learned a lot by asking questions. Questions that were answered with detail, time and care. Your individual and collective knowledge has been invaluable to me during my ownership. For that, I thank you all. Over the last 43 months I have covered 49 thousand miles spending an absolute age in the car. Over all, its been great. It is so frustratingly close to being brilliant. As it’s aged, the creaks and squeaks have started to drive me nuts and in all honesty it has been let down by all the documented niggles that drive most of us up the wall. For me, the stop/start stopping whilst the car is still moving is annoying as hell, the occasional protest when the throttle is applied out of roundabouts and slow speed hazards resulting in more throttle being applied followed by a harsh downshift and spin of the front wheels is utterly crap, the suspension is well over sprung and under damped resulting in a ride that sometimes resembles that of a lilo in a force 5. That said, those negatives are out weighed by the many really really good things about the car. It looks great, it’s comfortable, it’s been economical, it’s got loads of space in the cabin, the rear legroom is impossibly generous, it’s well equipped, it’s got storage everywhere, the boot is bloody cavernous and it has been pretty reliable. The simply clever things like the ice scraper, parking ticket holder, brollies in the doors and fantastic velcro load securing things in the boot will be missed. The only issue I had was the water pump that packed in 3 months and 1000 miles after the warranty ran out. Fixed by Marshall Skoda Reading, who gave me a loaner with no notice and got me a bit of goodwill from the VAGUK. I paid £350 for the water pump and cambelt. I was really impressed with their service and will happily recommend them. Paying £21800 for the car and being given £18500 in part ex has made this car fantastic value for money for us. All in all, it’s almost Superb. Happy new year to you all and thank you again.

I've been on this forum for about 9 years now and it was invaluable in helping me to firstly decide the Yeti was a car I'd rather not live without and then to decide on spec. (and indeed what some of the options actually were) and it was through the advice of some of the earliest members I took the trouble to get my Elegance supplied on 16" rather than 17" wheels, which I've never regretted. Throughout most of that time there has been light-hearted banter, excellent advice and on many occasions clear disagreement about the "right" way to do things. But posters seemed to be able to agree to disagree and leave the OP to decide what advice to follow and what to ignore. You quickly learnt who "knew their stuff", for example The Plumber was held in high regard for his technical knowledge, Llanigram was the go-to guy for off-roading and had an impressive knowledge of legislation and there were others of their standing or close to it. I learnt a lot along the way, most of which I will never put into practice but at least put me a little less in the role of sheep-to-the-slaughter when the car goes into the garage for work. But what I don't remember was any unnecessary and sometime sustained unpleasantness - usually about something totally inconsequential. Unfortunately owners have moved on and, at least in my opinion, some of the newer members seem to think they have a monopoly on being right and aren't slow in expressing that anyone holding a different view is either incompetent or a fool. A couple of recent examples are the tirades being delivered about where to put the locking bolt (if at all) when the OP simply asked about replacing a rounded-of bolt and the "discussion" about the possible insurance consequences of changing the ride height and, by inference, handling characteristics. It's perfectly reasonable for a forum member to point out modifications can affect insurance and totally out of order to say that this isn't appropriate for a car forum. If you don't like any advice, don't take it but it might be helpful to others now or in the future. I will continue visiting the forum because there is always something to be learnt and also hopefully occasionally I may be able to help someone with their issue but I have to say that these days there's an increasing urge to use the "ignore" button for some members and their content. If this posting offends anyone sorry about that but I'll happily add you to my Ignore list as I'd simply rather correspond with posters who can respect the views of others even if they can't agree with them. Best wishes for the New Year to the many, many forum members able to participate in a sensible and civilised manner.

It's very much a case of combination of everything: - Weight - Motor technology - Inverter design - Heating system - Heat scavenging features - Balanced weight vs range etc Model 3 was on-par with Ioniq 28kWh being the most efficient in 2019/2020. Ioniq 40 kWh is heavier and not as efficient (also charges slower because of lower pack voltage, it was designed to be a 64kWh pack and then downgraded by decreasing number of modules) 2021 Model 3 now has special valve heatpump, allowing it to scavenge heat from rapid charge heated battery instead of using electricity for heating. So now Model 3 and Y are most efficient in its class. Another example, this time on motor: Old Zoe had Q and R motor variants, IIRC there were over 10% efficiency differences, so even though one charges twice the speed at 43 kW instead of 22 kW, it doesn't actually translate to twice driving range between charging. Sorry, I meant miles of range per charging hour, which is arguably more useful metric than pure kW. Latter is only useful to calculate cost of charging. If it averages out to be charging at 300 mph, and you have 150 miles to drive, it's easy to see how long you need to charge.

Firstly I must thank Wino for the info that spurned me on to have a go at replacing this and the fact that VW wanted £400 plus to do it plus it saved a spares or repair project for Ebay. It is a stupid decision to mount such a component which is likely to fail on such a strange unit. If yours has gone, give it a go. I think Fabia 1 have a different numbered relay but mine is a 2 and the relay is Omron G8NW-2U 12V DC. They do look the same. I ordered from China but it is marked Japan !!. Sorry no pics but Wino has some. Photo the unit blocks before you pull them off as the unit is tucked away on the rhs of the drivers footwell. It comes apart really easily. Wino shows where the relay is and with some Desoldering wire, soldering iron and solder it's a 15 minute job replacing it. I can't thank him enough so don't be put off. I should have done pics but he has already done some.

The have to rewrite all the code from left to right to right to left in order to work in your cars 🙃

Fingers crossed. You could've asked for an auto, no? 🤔

Car Parts 4 Less have both sides in stock, £72.10 each and currently 19% discount on top so £58.40 each. I brought a pair from CP4L a year ago and they are great. Why buy 2nd hand rubbish if you can get brand new for less than £60 ?

I think the Ionic full electric is minimalist in all direct and that leads it to being efficient in energy per mile. Its motor is supposedly 100 Kw and Torque actually quite high but it only does 10 second 0 -60. It tends to have sensible wheels ie not 17 inch and wider than 205s and that Drag coefficient of 0.25 really helps when one gets over the double nickel of 55 mph. Most other EVs are designed to sell in the showrooms, ie look good with bigger wheels and aggressive bodywork that looks good but actually detracts for good miles per kWh. The Hyundai IONIC was designed to steal sales from the Prius following a similar body shape and trying to sell the hybrid versions but do not think that really took off and I would much rather be in the back of a Prius taxi than a Hyundai one as the Toyota just seems more roomy and proper than the Ionic which just feels more cramped particularly in the back. If they did slot a 45 to 55 kWh battery in there it might be quite awesome but the new ionic ie 38 kWh only charging at 30 kWh when it hits 66% charged is not great and some people preferring the older 28 kWh car for some journeys is weird. Hyundai do not seem to be pouring technical efforts in to plain ionic rather than the 5, shame. Did consider one but discounts did not seem to be great or finance. Very good car spoilt by small battery and low summer range but decent winter and cooler weather range through efficient electricity management and aero drag coefficient close to Teslas. One clear winner, not really Bjorn, all fairly good when consider)

Hi I didn't appreciate that it's a Hall effect sensor, i.e. it responds to a magnetic field. Presumably there is a magnet forming part of the moving internal part of the master cylinder, and the magnetic field extends out through the non-magnetic metal wall of the cylinder. A Hall effect sensor is essentially solid state, so will require a DC supply and may have its own onboard signal processing chip, i.e. it's not just a simple metallic contact switch.

I remember a couple of bus lanes in Southampton that were only in operation from x time to x time. People were so afraid of getting a ticket they remained pretty much empty leading to unnecessary congestion. Surely it's not beyond the whit of man to have clear signage, perhaps even illuminated, to indicate when motor vehicles can use the bus lanes.

In Sheffield there’s one that springs to mind - Chesterfield Road - that is well signed together with the times it operates. The infuriating thing is that people insist on not using the bus lane outside of the correct times leading to the ‘outside’ lane getting needlessly clogged up. They never seem to take the hint after being correctly passed on the ‘inside’ bus lane either! 😠 If no operating times are displayed then the lane operates 24/7.

Do you mean 17 to 25 mpg if so as we've said its due to the disconnected 02 sensor and now it's reconnected that's proof it's probs defective as I've just been through this get it changed quick or your catalytic converter will be toasted before you know it.

It's an insurance policy that gives you peace of mind. Compare prices between Skoda and third parties (but the latter might have small print restricting the parts covered) and consider whether you can afford the cost of replacing engine parts, gearbox (DSG presumably) transmission etc. Personally I've been buying a 5 year factory warranty on my last three new cars because of concerns over rumoured DSG reliability faults, and then taking out an extension if I keep the car longer. But in practice I've never had to claim on them. But to say I've wasted my money is like saying I've also wasted the money I've spent and home and contents insurance all these years! It all depends on whether you want to stand the risk yourself or pay out relatively small sums to have not take the risk. Are cars more reliable than they used to be? Yes. But they still develop faults (especially with all the new software assist systems!) and if yours has been 'temperamental' then it could be well worth the cost of an extended warranty. But again, when comparing prices also compare the small print in the policies about what is covered and what is excludes. Chris

Yeah I just installed the 034 X34 Carbon intake and 034 X34 Carbon Fresh Air Duct. Gotta say it goes heaps harder. Mid range punch and top end is much better. Initial throttle response is definitely more noticeable too. Won’t tune this car hey. I reckon it goes as hard now as when I had a JB4 connected to my 162 Octy VRS Mk3. Except this car has traction… (no LSD in the 162) Will get the 034 Turbo Inlet Pipe installed soon. Am also going to order rear gloss black diffuser, gloss black rear loading sill protector and some front and rear air inlets from Milotec. Just waiting on getting a quote for shipping to Australia.

Some bus lanes are reserved for buses, taxis etc the whole 24 hours of the day, while others are only reserved during the rush hours. I see that in some places the signs at the start of a bus lane might announce the limited reserve times, but here in Cambridge and the surrounding county none of the bus lane notices tell us when we may or may not use them. So, you guys, how are these lanes signed where you are? Do your signs tell you clearly when a lane is reserved for buses etc. and when anyone can drive along it? Can one assume that rural bus lanes are open to all traffic outside rush hours (usually 07:30-09:30 and then 15:30-18:00) even if no times are displayed? I have seen one website that says that if times are not displayed, the prohibition lasts the full 24 hours. Which would be ridiculous on rural roads. One main road between Cambridge and Haverhill has several bus lanes, with no times displayed, yet it carries only one half-hourly bus service between the termini and many villages, and none at all between about midnight and 07:00. Would one be liable to a penalty if one drove in such a lane at 3 am? Oh for some common sense in the planning departments!

I hadn't forgotten since I've been reading up on this for a wee while, but I'll have to try and keep it in mind when these come (they're my birthday present from my Grampa) so I've got a wee while yet.

Euro Car Parts are also still listing RHD left & right Mk1 Fabia headlights. https://www.eurocarparts.com/headlight

Apparently they have updates for cars that we don't have in the UK. There's a discussion about it somewhere on here.

^^^ Exactly. The one owned by the VW Group that the Dealer Principal or sales executive is driving as their daily. Let them drive the Fabia manual.

ive run the AT3 on my outback when i lived in australia so i know they are a good tire as i put mine through hell.... virtually no road noise and still great grip in all weathers and hard wearing ... i put 70k on my AT2 with a lot of off roading and when i replaced them there was still about 5mm left on them .. think if im going down this route of a lift then i will get new struts ,springs , top mounts ,poly bushed etc so its all done and dusted first time ...

That's your first mistake 😉. I'd rather people sat there with their brake lights on and engines stopped.

I did my single-DIN stereo installation differently from you, but aimed for what I presume is a similar outcome. This is my completed works... I kept the OEM cubby at the bottom (drilled a hole in mine to run an iPod cable through) and used a single-DIN fascia purchased from Halfords, they still sell them IIRC. Hope that helps.

Thanks Ryan i am looking forward to giving it a good polish when the weather improves. Bc

OK it was the miles per hour that confused me, they meany miles of range per charging hour. Aérodynamic efficiency can only be a fraction of a percent different between any current vehicle whatever the power source, all the gains have already been made in the last 40 years, a smaller frontal area will always consume less fuel for a given drag coefficient. Like you I don't think that Brand X's electric motor can be significantly more efficient than Brand Y, Unless someone can explain it to me then I can't see how a battery management system or different regenerative braking can make such a quantum difference to how many miles a vehicle can travel per kwatt of energy. I think all the manufacturers are having a larf with their miles per kwatt figures, some much more so than others and all the motoring journalists and influencers are their paid mouthpieces.

Thanks for the prompt response buddy. I appreciate it! Also that is why I prefer gravity bleed also!

This loop has been travelled before, it is possible to get the reflector recoated, however in practice it is quicker and easier to just buy new headlamp units. Projectors are crap anyway, just fit a pair of halogens instead.

A good looking car in this colour scheme IMO. Inoffensive and has the cloak of Invisibility.

I would be careful then. It’s easy to add a generic map or buy an off the shelf version. Doing so (as with adding any power improvement) will highlight any weaknesses. Clutch, Turbo, etc. If you’re going to have a remap, factor in a new clutch if you haven’t already, and do not be surprised if it goes. Wanting more power? Do the basics first. A full service is key. Check paperwork to see when the clutch was last changed. Check all your pipes and connections on them. It’s easy to pop a boost pipe and you need to know how to reconnect them. This isn’t said to scare you, it’s just a risk we all take when we modify our cars. And, you need to be aware of it. Especially if you’re just going to swap out an ECU or, chuck a map on it.

I can not figure out the crazy new one near Edinburgh airport from leaving the airport and passing the Travelodge heading to Newbridge / Glasgow or North. Not been able to see yet what the signs say. EDIT.. Covid19 Emergency measures. https://www.radcc.org/tag/emergency-bus-lane-a8/ 'Temporary' A8 westbound. https://edinburgh.gov.uk/news/article/13141/significant-progress-made-on-temporary-bus-priority-measures-across-south-east-scotland

See comment at bottom - starting point, does car run which I have assumed it does not, others may read it different. Agrre - see comment at bottom I think everyone is going off at tangents, including myself , based on what we perceive to be the current state. My understanding is that the car will not start up. Doe's the engine actually turn over - hopefully not seized up. Agree that this test will remove the level sensor from the possible issues, but probably needs professional intervention to identify leakage through pressurising the cooling system, sniff testing, or possibly identifying signs of leakage from a running warm engine. Your low level issue may have cleared itself, but still having signal latched, through thermal expansion of liquid bringing level up slightly or splashing of water around header. I have found this myself when weather extremely cold. As I was on my way to work and could visually identify level was minimal amount under low level, I did an ignition off restart to clear dash warning after driving 5 minutes and re-filled later in day. Bottom line - does car actually run. @cash3005 suggest starting point as get car scanned with dedicated software such as VCDS possibly by locating holder of software local to yourself listed in posting on here.

Car now sold, thanks for your interest and comments.

There's two in Ayr along from Tesco/the Racecourse that are like this. Both run at different times so if you're in one, you need to try and merge at a junction to get out of the way of the other one. Plus there's an added congestion due to folk not using them because the signs are tiny.

Hi All, Today is the time that i move away from lurking since 2011, to become a little more active on Briskoda. The simple reason that i was lurking is that there is a great dutch skodaforum as well and yes you can find me there to. Since 2011 i had 2 octavia's, a Passat GTE and my previous was a VW Arteon, but all were getting old (and since gas prices became insane) i sold my Arteon and went for a 2021 Vrs Ocatvia, yeah the hybrid one... It came fully specced, because it was a demo car with 3k miles on it, thats the reason to why it is lowered, has black accents and what not. Now this is a great car and all, but some things are bothering me and want to get fixxed, like no cigarette lighter in the front to charge all my mobile devices, no 12V in the rear for the kids their screens during vacation. I know its (in holland) a 50k car, but hey we dutchy's can complain about everything. So that is something i need to get fixxed, and i hope that i can gather some info here or share some knowledge on these projects.

RE: the annoying / dangerous start stop feature, I've recently sorted that by fitting a £14 cable underneath the centre console that permanently disables it. What's your next motor?

I'm not near my computer to look for good photos/videos just now, but search for "vw connector removal" on YouTube and you should find a few useful results. In words; push the connector body firmly onto the thing its plugged into while lifting the latch up a short distance in the opposite direction until you hear a click. Then pull connector away Find an easily accessible one to practise with. If you don't do that initial pushing, friction on the latch parts may cause breakage.

I pulled the trigger towards a set of Koya SF10 in satin gunmetal last night. Matte black is sweet, but any curb or scratch will be super obviously.

Lambda sensor = O2 sensor, you have found the reason for the fault code. Had you reconnected the plug & left it connected before erasing the fault code & was it still connected when the MIL light came on? If so then my hypothesis about a failed Lambda sensor & them disconnecting it was correct & you should replace it.

If u have the Canton setup, there is a speaker riveted to the door, and another small one on the door card, next to the handle. U will need to remove the door card to access both speakers.

Des, Jon, Paul, , colin, Gerry, Ross, Jason and others. All the old guard from over 18 yrs ago. Some still here, some moved on.

Touch/click on the three dots in the top right corner of the post you wish to report and you will see this option appear. (For the benefit of anyone unaware of such details.)

To achieve any reduction in width you would have to completely deflate the tyre and even then I doubt you would even gain one centimeter. If you carry a fully deflated tyre its highly likely that you will not be able to reinflate it with a footpump or electric tyre pump due to the beads not being sealed. Even with a garage compressor you often have to remove the valve core to allow enough air to pass quickly enough and sometimes that isn't enough, I have a portable air reservoir with a short length of large bore hose leading to a PCL connector and a 3/4" bore lever operated gate valve, with the valve core removed, the PCL connector in place and the reservoir at 10 bar opening the valve quickly will seat a reluctant bead enough to seal.

rolled over 123456km on the way back up here now safely in the heated garage to melt all the snow off... just reveals how damned dirty it is. Well, it's been around 5000kms in the worst weather, so I'm not really surprised. But when it's -20C you can't exactly wash outside... need to come up with a plan to wash soon.

I feel for you. Sadly in my almost 60 years of motoring experience I know it is best to steer well clear of sunroofs. Eventually they all leak and when you think of the torsional stresses the frames are under in driving on our rutted and pot holed roads it is amazing they do so well as they do. Roads surfaces are only going to get worse, much worse, as the years go by and we have to expect that B & C roads will soon be nothing more than rough tracks driven at your peril. Sad but that’s the way it’s going, no local government has the money to maintain roads and the green anti car lobby is quite happy for our roads to return to the 1800’s tracks they once were. Get used to it folks, life is going to be a boot crashing into your face forever.

To all my Superb mates ! May Crimbo fulfil all your dreams and may our 272 brethren awake on Christmas morning with a nice pair of flaps ! ( I hear the big man is handy with a spanner )

Updating the maps would not cure this fault as it is the gps aerial. there are cheap fixes and a plethora of threads here about it. use the search function.

Thank you! Good call changing the bulbs has resolved the problem, Though at £9.60 for 6 bulbs from my local motor factors I thought that was a bit steep? Though they probably would have been cheaper had I bought them online. So none of the 6 I changed had blown, though yes there are two bulbs with broken filaments in the photo because I dropped them in the motor factor car park. So after changing the bulbs and turning the lights on the bulb warning light was still on! Tough then checking the warning message it was now saying check the rear number plate light bulbs! Turning the ignition off and on the warning light went out and hasn't come back on. Checking the rear number plate bulbs they are quite black so I'd better change them as well'

@Mattk53 To find part no so we can find out if you have Mib 1 or mib 2: Press "menu" button. Press "setup" by scrolling left and right through the screen menus. Scroll down the setup list to "System Information" And get to my last picture.

I don't know why they made the postcode entry so difficult to find - I'm running on a modern Columbus and it took me a while to find it. Saying that......I find the manual "free form" entry of addresses does, in most cases, just work. I've been very surprised when I've just started typing in a street address and it has found it without issue.

OP has a 2015 Octavia so whether he has a MIB1 or a MIB2 (the changeover happened during 2015) will determine the newest maps available. VAG have a policy of not offering map updates for more than 5 years after the end of production, so the last maps available for a MIB1 Amundsen are 2020-2021. 2021-2022 maps are available for a MIB2 Amundsen though.