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Standard Fabia vRS seats probably will have a good market for them once they have all but vanished. Only then will folks be able to get sensible money for them as they will be simply unavailable anywhere. I'm afraid that is probably a long way off so for now they are not worth a great deal. My advice would be to put them in the loft, hang onto them if you have the room and flog them in a few years time

Have done several on Octavias, never paid more than £30 each, add on another £3 for the foam bump stop which is usually decomposed, 15 minutes a side for me to fit on a good day. £627 presumably is for just one, sounds about right for a main stealer. Your mistake was having an MOT done by someone with a very vested interest (AKA robbing lying barstewards), no MOT station would have told you that unless it had been flagged as such on the failure certificate. If the car was under warranty and you had it MOT'd elsewhere & it had failed on leaking shock absorbers the main stealer would have called it "slight misting" and said it was completely normal. I would ask to see the MOT failure certificate and inspect the dampers visually myself, if I had any doubt I would get a second opinion from an MOT test station that did not have a vested interest, one that only does tests & not repairs.

Thanks for the comprehensive reply, makes much more sense now. I'll drop it back in and they can just check it again.

What ever you do dont skip them .. As Lofty advised put them somewhere warm, dark and dry. The vRS seats are not that easy to keep right especially with our two rascals and juice and sticky stuff - Add in a bicycle or 2 and my seats are in a right state !! My fronts are Octavia vRS Mk1 half leather so its a total mismatched affair !! Tide is starting to turn on the Fabia vRS as ratty chavvy abused examples are getting culled at quite a rate. in about 5 years time when the vRS gets the recognition it so rightly deserves they will be worth good money to anybody doing a resto. Try to get an interior for a 90's Nova GTE to see how you get on .... I saw mint ones 20 years ago for £40 .... The Fabia will definitely follow this trend so well worth hoarding if you have the place for them !👍

Just seen someone on Facebook who ordered last month and their car is already built. Might actually pop over to the factory and murder someone.

Reports say that many company PHEV vehicles are returned at the end of lease with the charging cable still sealed in the plastic bag it was put in at the factory. https://www.autoexpress.co.uk/car-news/105206/fleet-owned-plug-in-hybrids-may-never-have-been-charged If those reports are correct then it would seem that there is a 'tax dodging' minority(?) of company car drivers - with the beneficial BIK rates for hybrids it's not surprising that hybrids are chosen.

This thread seems a bit dusty! Here's a Ford Fiesta R3 at the 2021 Cambrian Rally.

My experience with a 1.4tsi ACT manual Superb is that keeping revs well above 1500, around 2000-2400 means the engine is in 2 cylinder mode a lot more and 2000 rpm/2 cylinder mode is usually considerably more economical than 1400 rpm/4 cylinder mode. It also feels happier at the higher revs. The faster the rpm, the more often you can use 2 cylinder mode, the criteria being the demand is less than 25% of the available power which increases with rpm.

I would say to myself, "once again my defensive riding and assuming that every other vehicle is driven with inattention has saved my life", that is to say I would not have come alongside said vehicle even if he looked to have made eye contact, much more and safer gains to be made on the approach and leaving the roundabout.

Update good news my car passed its mot and it was the catalytic converter not the 02 sensor. And had to replace the exhaust sleeve as it was 100% rust lol Thanks for every one's help 👍👍👍👍

Unless the fail is marked as dangerous on the MOT test sheet, you can drive it away and the old MOT is valid until it expires. https://www.gov.uk/getting-an-mot/after-the-test In the case of a leaking shock absorber no matter how bad, it is classed as a major fail, not dangerous. see section 5.3.2. Shock absorbers https://www.gov.uk/guidance/mot-inspection-manual-for-private-passenger-and-light-commercial-vehicles/5-axles-wheels-tyres-and-suspension#section-5-3-2 I recently had both rear shock absorbers and bump stops changed on our Octavia Estate with Bilstein branded shocks at our local independent specialist. £180 inc vat Car was 10 years and 150k hard miles, shocks were still ok no leaks but rusty, bump stops almost none existing and dust covers stuck down so the rods were exposed. For the labour involved I thought might as well change them. Many Skoda dealers will exaggerate misting as a leak. Misting is not an MOT fail.

For the record - they CANNOT legally withhold your car whether an MOT fail or not. The most they can do is report you to the police for driving away but they won’t. If you can drive the car with failures depends on certain factors. if the mot is still valid and the fail wasn’t dangerous you have 10 days to return for a retest I believe. chances are it’s lightly misted and the dealer wants to pull your pants down. I personally would change a shock for you at a much much lower price if you’re In the north London area.

I can't remember where. It was the Indi that changed cambelt last that showed me where. I recollect that it was visible with the cover removed.

AP- advice on here & from Skoda was never to go less than 50% screenwash. Otherwise pipes could pop off. Over the years I've found that "Clearalex" added to an alcohol screen wash helped git rid of flies and diesel road throw up. Sadly, Clearalex is not to be found, so I've resorted to as cheap and nasty a washing up liquid as I could find as it does not foam , but does remove road fuel deposits. Occasionally I find that my screen needs "road oil" strip to remove road oil from the screen. I use a neat film of cheapo washing up liquid for this, spread over the windscreen using wipers and washed off with copies quantities of water .

Engine code is also on cambelt cover as well as on first few letters of "engine number" on V5.

Just drive it. And if it's a 1.4TDI MK1,and you don't do a lot of miles, don't forget to treat it like a DPF model and give it a once a week hoon of at least 10 miles. I've found that in over 15 years and 120k I get the same MPG whether I drive like Miss Daisy or bury my right foot and watch Fiesta man go backwards on corners.

Nice pics, Kharl

They (VWFS) chose to log it as a formal complaint. Therefore, “they” had to follow their own procedure. ”They” are still a bunch of w*nkers.

288's are fine for stopping, but the feel and progressiveness is much better on 312's. I've treated 288's really badly and they won't fade if you've got good quality pads and discs.

Not sure I agree with the discount thing either, sounds like you all need tin foil hats! mine is ready to go. Collecting next Friday.

I had visually inspected everything but its hard now with my vision and from lying on my back, I will give it all a good levering during the CT, the tester is a friend.

Big shout out to @East_Yorkshire_Retrofits who have successfully update my MIB2 Amundsen from 0253 firmware to 0480. All works great and I now have the later menus, working on the original 6.5” screen with no errors. A very professional service.

Don’t worry guys and gals, these will be going to a decent home and will be well looked after 🤗 I’ve had my Fabia since 2011 and have done well to keep them as clean as I have, especially given my job. But yeah, bit of a PITA to keep tip top. Gonna look for some kind of spray-on protector before I put them in …. And some very decent car seats for week days!

So i just failed a periodic since the bearing on top of my right front shock was busted. I ordered a pair of new ones to replace them but then i saw that i also had a broken spring and a leaky shock! Look at that! No wonder the car was pulling to one side all the time, and both the bearing where just rust, no oil left in them and barely any metal to speak off. So after some back and forth, and reading up on what to order, huge thanks to Carlston and the information he brings, i ended up with Bilstein B6's and new stock springs. look at the thickness of these ******s! Since the bilsteins dont use those botom out thinges i had to adapt soem to get the dust caps to stay in place, i cut the top of em just so they fit on the tops of the bilsteins: New and old: Looks quite nice when its finnished=) Now i have a new periodic in one week, hope i installed it all the right way:S never done something like this before.

From my experience, the same applies to so many things, which "could come in useful one day". I think in all my 60 years, it has actually happened about as many times as I can count on the fingers of one finger 😉 Forgive my lack of knowledge but if the car is running fine, as usual, wouldn't that suggest it's probably not a plugs issue? Not saying they shouldn't be done anyway, erring on the side of them being the originals.....

That's a much better idea, thanks roottoot. It's clear to me now why I only got half a physics O level 🙄🤭 Does seem a bit unlikely to be just the fuel (the identical car has had no issues with the ordinary and we've had it longer) but I'd like to rule out as many cheap and/or simple possibilities as I can before splashing much cash.

How much is pretty well discounted? Similar spec to mine though, maybe they're building mine right now and the dealer just hasn't checked........? 🤣

You've rightly acknowledged it's a beast to move Sorry I didn't get what 1.5tsi Kodiaq model you have but it makes little difference anyway. These are the official figures for a 1.5 DSG SE-L ... MPG is calculated in a controlled environment based on Mr Joe Average and is simply a means of comparing different cars on as much of a like-to-like basis as possible. Thru your own admission, you are not Mr Average. You're doing lots of short journeys in a loaded car. The official figure you should be looking at is around 30mpg, NOT the 39mpg. I can't find the WLTP figures for that Citroen as they've stopped building it. It's been replaced by an EV and although I have no personal experience of EV whatsoever, I can assure you the published range will not be what you achieve in the real-world, moreover that will drop even further in the winter months. Petrol, Diesel, EV, hybrid PHEV whatever - they're all the same when it comes to published figures and economy. PS - I see people refering to different gearbox modes and coasting or whatever else. None of this is going to make much of a difference - if it did then we're only talking about £50 a year in fuel savings which is feck all. It's not complicated to understand, especially in an automatic - the more you press on an accelerator, the more fuel the car uses, end of story. So if you're driving a heavy car like an oldman, then in heavy traffic or even just going uphill, you're foot is going to be pressed down on that accelerator for way longer than if if you were to accelerate off briskly.. A diesel provides it's power lower in the rev range so under the same circumstances, even driving like an oldman, you're up to speed before you know it. Eco, Normal, Sport whatever - there's no way round it, if you're not happy with the MPG then it's the wrong engine for your needs and we're back to working out is spending the extra outay on a the correct engine going to make you financially better off? Only you can answer that.

I think as well as the "Think Bike" signs that you see on popular roads (e.g. A32 south of Alton) there should be "Think Car" signs too, on several occasions a bike pulling in after a risky overtake has caused me to brake sharply as it pulls in in front of me - defensive riding and defensive driving should be equally promoted.

I changed the aux belt when changing the timing chain on my 1.2tsi Octavia mk2 at 10 years 150 k miles. The old original belt looked in perfect condition, not a single crack or any sign of bits missing or worn. It could have been left on no problem.

Basically using coasting mode can save fuel, so that is getting moving and then toe off accelerator, which if hilly area driving can mean often enough downhills after getting up them. Stop / Start can save fuel but then the low consumption is a winter issue so maybe stop start is not operating much or is being switched off.

I suppose it depends on your definition of 'major changes' - a change to the engine ECU SW or gearbox ECU SW or front radar ECU SW (amongst others) will have IMHO a 'major change' in the behaviour of the car but none of those will be reported in the infotainment SW version.

Trying out some HDR edits now I've got access to Photoshop

Also, in each of the drive profile values that are actually relevant to the Superb, I think you change the zero to be the colour you want in that drive mode (from your 10 or 30 colour palette). Trying to remember as it is ages since I did this!

@Bap33 Should be in 09.

It'll release automatically when you press the accelerator. The only time it won't automatically release is if you try to drive off with a door open, here you'll have to release it manually. I don't know that it's going to cause any premature wear. I'm not even sure what system these cars use. I think it's a small motor on each side that winds a pad onto the disc? Hopefully someone will be along with the information!

I have a text file that says the following: ; Ambient colour profile individual: IDE09731-ENG154511-Int. light: 2nd generation-Ambiente_Fahrprofil_Individual,1 ; Ambience color list HMI (History Memory Information) with color transformation: IDE09731-ENG154512-Int. light: 2nd generation-Ambiente_Farbliste_HMI_mit_Farbtransformation,active ; Coupling the ambient colour choice to the driving profile selection (FPA) IDE09731-ENG154513-Int. light: 2nd generation-Ambiente_Farbwahl_FPA_waehlbare_Kopplung, active ; Coupling the ambient colour choice to the driving profile selection (FPA) Status HMI (History Memory Information) default (gives the option of automatic in the colour selection) IDE09731-ENG154514-Int. light: 2nd generation-Ambiente_Farbwahl_FPA_waehlbare_Kopplung_Status_hmi_default,active ; Switch on the interior light with the trunk lid open: IDE09731-ENG116596-Int. light: 2nd generation-Innenlicht bei offenem Heckdeckel einschalten,not active ; Ambient light Assignment of the color to the driving profile ambience - no voltage requirement: ENG153712-ENG154510-Ambientelicht Zuordnung der Farbe zum Fahrprofil-Ambiente,Keine_Spannungsanforderung ENG153712-ENG154602-Ambientelicht Zuordnung der Farbe zum Fahrprofil-Fahrprofil_0,0 ,23 ENG153712-ENG154603-Ambientelicht Zuordnung der Farbe zum Fahrprofil-Fahrprofil_1,0 ,23 ENG153712-ENG154604-Ambientelicht Zuordnung der Farbe zum Fahrprofil-Fahrprofil_10,0 ,23 ENG153712-ENG154605-Ambientelicht Zuordnung der Farbe zum Fahrprofil-Fahrprofil_11,0 ,23 ENG153712-ENG154606-Ambientelicht Zuordnung der Farbe zum Fahrprofil-Fahrprofil_12,0 ,23 ENG153712-ENG154607-Ambientelicht Zuordnung der Farbe zum Fahrprofil-Fahrprofil_13,0 ,23 ENG153712-ENG154608-Ambientelicht Zuordnung der Farbe zum Fahrprofil-Fahrprofil_14,0 ,23 ENG153712-ENG154609-Ambientelicht Zuordnung der Farbe zum Fahrprofil-Fahrprofil_15,0 ,23 ENG153712-ENG154610-Ambientelicht Zuordnung der Farbe zum Fahrprofil-Fahrprofil_2,0 ,23 ENG153712-ENG154611-Ambientelicht Zuordnung der Farbe zum Fahrprofil-Fahrprofil_3,0 ,23 ENG153712-ENG154612-Ambientelicht Zuordnung der Farbe zum Fahrprofil-Fahrprofil_4,0 ,23 ENG153712-ENG154613-Ambientelicht Zuordnung der Farbe zum Fahrprofil-Fahrprofil_5,0 ,23 ENG153712-ENG154614-Ambientelicht Zuordnung der Farbe zum Fahrprofil-Fahrprofil_6,0 ,23 ENG153712-ENG154615-Ambientelicht Zuordnung der Farbe zum Fahrprofil-Fahrprofil_7,0 ,23 ENG153712-ENG154616-Ambientelicht Zuordnung der Farbe zum Fahrprofil-Fahrprofil_8,0 ,23 ENG153712-ENG154617-Ambientelicht Zuordnung der Farbe zum Fahrprofil-Fahrprofil_9,0 ,23 Hope this helps! Edit: Not really sure why "Switch on the interior light with the trunk lid open" setting to not active is in there.

Nextbase 522GW front and rear camera for me too. Only issue has been the power connector (at the mount) sometimes "backs off" maybe due to long term vibration which makes me think the whole system has gone Tits Up. However, just push the connector back in and it's all Kushti. Definitely worth it in terms of playback quality.

well u could save your 50 EUR or 30 pounds to activate additional ambient light colours open the bonnet 09 central electrics - adaptations - interior light hmi config first and second value should be 7fffffff and ignition of, ignition on turn multimedia on , find ambient lights and shoul be activated additional 20 colours

You're in the wrong forum really 😛 Mk2 forum..... https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/113-skoda-fabia-mk-ii/

If the corrosion was due to the component being exposed to the environment, then why has only one of the two adjacent spindles suffered? If their response is to be deemed accurate then a quick walk around a few dealers checking the condition of the spindles on other Skoda's of a similar age and mileage should demonstrate that their conclusion is flawed.

I have a better idea. Drive it, add petrol (unless it's a diesel) when required. Problem solved.

Conversely my 288's are excessively powerful, they'll break your nose with a light prod on the middle pedal, Pagid discs and pads probably make a difference but the old 2.0 is a fair bit lighter than the 1.9 PD diesels.

No. Best just get them and try them. Maybe worth the PITA of getting down and fitting and then taking them off dirty and cleaning later. Saves having more suitable tyres fitted for the odd occasion when you have to tow across grass or that you need towed in or out of sites / fields,

Hate to be the bearer of bad news but you should prepare for disappointment. I got an email from my dealer (also in Dublin) that physical production started on my Enyaq on the 4th of February, after being pushed back about 6 weeks from the original build date in December. It hasn’t progressed at all from that point. Almost 3 weeks in, my car is still in production. If they manage to stick to your build date I reckon you’ll be very lucky to have it by mid-April.

So, almost 5 months into ownership, and I'm still really liking the Superb. Went down the road of lowering, with Eibach Pro-Kit, a few weeks back, and that pushed me to either buy some spacers as a temporary solution, or finally make my mind up on some wheels. Read as much as I could on sizing and offsets, but still needed to take an educated guess/leap of faith. Straying from my Japanese wheel roots, I ended up going with Judd Model One, 20x9.5 et40, in Gloss Gunmetal (would have done Brushed Titanium if they were in stock). Tyres are Michelin PS4S, 255/35r20 in size. Yes, I know that's a little larger than stock OD, but it was a deliberate choice to maintain some sidewall. No rubbing so far, thankfully. Outside pics are with the stock wheels/tyres loaded in the back, hence why it sits a little lower in those pics. Will try and get some better pics sometime over the next week or so.

You need 'memory' mirror motors to get the rear dip to work properly. These are normally fitted in conjunction with electric seats

Throwing my 2 cents in, A remapped PD100 is plenty powerful enough for 99% of driving. Slap a rarb on that to make it handle. If you want a vRS bumper, you need the facelift bumper clips (only if your car is a pre facelift) and you need to extend the foglight wiring on the drivers side (I had to). vRS seats are hard to keep clean and most of them are trashed by this point. I got a set of Fabia Sport seats in my car, same seat but dark. Then I swapped the drivers and passengers seat base, as the passengers side one was in better shape. I've had some experience with Caddys and Golfs with 1.9 and 2l PD engines. Golf was a 2l Pd140 and it was great, but you wouldn't want any less power in one of them, imo. That sort of power in a fabia is plenty enough, speaking from experience as my monte is mapped to 140hp. You mention your ibiza spinning up at wet junctions, as a 105hp common rail? I never had an issue with my monte, same engine mapped. It only ever became an issue when I put some winter tyres on, normal tyres you have to really try to get the wheels to spin. Something I don't think anyone else has mentioned is brakes. A mk1 PD100, if i'm not mistaken has 256mm FSIII brakes, can see them getting overwhelmed pretty easy after a remap. vRS' came with 288mm on the front (and discs on the back) for a reason, even my monte (and your ibiza) with the CR105 unit came with 288mm fronts.