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Up to you, but bear in mind that the same workshop manual suggests in the context of rear shoe fitment: ❑ Cover the whole contact surface of the brake shoe with solid lubricant paste - G 000 650- I'd love to know how many apprentices have taken that the wrong way 😁

With it being a Vauxhall chances are he wouldn't have had to do much to coax it into spontaneously combusting.

the Polish mechanic i sold mine to for scrap sent the block to poland to get it reconditioned, because noone here doing them would do one that the block side bearing had failed on rather than the piston side. when he got back and rebuilt it it was probably the most perfect 2.0cdti in Ireland. i still didnt want the car back though when i found the second key after about 2 months i called up to him and he had my 2009 hatch sitting there, without the engine back in it yet, and a 2011 estate parked beside it with the same problem... i told him take my engine, alloys, leather interior and gearbox/clutch etc and put it into the estate to make 1 better car and set fire to the remains of mine... one of the rear shocks had started leaking on his compound while it was parked up aswell....

A Service Plan needs looked at to see if it is just Oil & Inspection Services and then Extended Scope because that is not to Manufacturers Recommendations. THERE WERE DIFFERENT GRADES/ LEVELS OF SERVICE PLANS AVAILABLE. See 'SKODA BESPOKE PLANS.' https://skoda.co.uk/owners/bespoke-plans https://skoda.co.uk/owners/servicing-maintenance-offers So Brake fluid at 3 years and each 2 years. Pollen Filter @ 2 years. Haldex or VAQ @ 3 years / 30,000. DSG Oil change @ 40,000 miles. Air Filter, Spark Plugs are extras, AC is extra. So you need to look at what you want doing and when and what is or is not included. http://skoda.co.uk/owners/servicing-maintenance-fixed-price Scroll down for what they now call a 'Schedule' but they never used to and many Skoda Approved cars are not serviced to the Recommendations because they had been on a 'Service Plan' / Fleet Servicing. DSG is at 40,000 miles, or with some 80,000 miles, not @4 years as looks like here.

If profile is same on both at 35, then you've increased both height and width. 235/35-R19 vs 225/35-R19 Tire Comparison - Tire Size Calculator | Tacoma World Only about 1.1% diff on speedo though, allegedly

Being wider with a bit more rubber on the road, it should increase grip. It also helps protect the side of the wheels more from pothole damage, or even kerbs if you are not too careful. As for speedo error, would have thought it would not be affected as it's width I have increased, not height of tyre. So the distance per revolution should be the same.

When I changed from 225 to 235, Blackcircles delivered them to a garage of my choice in the same town where I live. That garage did refuse to change them, as they were a different size to the ones that were on the car. So I took the tyres to another local tyre fitting place who did change them no problem for a fee of course. I then contacted Blackcircles explaining my problem and they sent the fitting fee which was part of the cost of the tyres back to me. Ever since of course, I now change 235 tyres to 235 again, no problem at any garage.

This is from the April 2012 Yeti specifications.

I don't want a 4x4 thanks. I can make do with my current car on winter tyre's. Which has proven to be better than a 4x4 on a couple of occasions, dealing with snow and ice with aplomb.

Don't forget that the cornering lights only operate up to a certain speed, so if there is a problem with the speed signal from the ABS then the cornering lights will be disabled.

There are two switches involved, one causing the brake lights to come on, the other one informing the engine ECU that the brakes are being applied. They're both in the same housing. The brake lights working doesn't prove that the other is, unfortunately. On your car I expect the switch(es) are on the underside of the brake master cylinder rather than at the pedal. The wire from the relevant switch going to the ECU may be a white/green one from pin 1 of the 4-way at the switch connector to ECU pin 21. Access is not easy, I believe, on RHD cars. I would be inspecting that wiring and connections prior to purchasing anything, if it were my car.

Things are starting to get in motion. I’m being taken to the dental hospital at 11, which is par for the course with heart surgery. Once that’s dealt with I should then be given a date of when the saw will be dusted off 🤣 On another note, found out yesterday that an 18 yo barman at my local pub will be joining me here next week as he also has a severely knackered Aortic Valve that has to be replaced. Trying to get his contact number so I can offer some support as I remember just how scared and confused I was for op number 1. Still no sign of infection in any of the bloods and cultures they’ve taken since Friday….. yay 🤘

A few shots from a karate tournament at the weekend. Processing is a bit marmite. Lol

Good shout.. Just sorted the exact same problem. Took a while to get the right sensor with the motor factors sending a few. It wasn’t helped by the old one working intermittently, falsely indicating a possible wiring issue. We checked the resistance on the working sensor and road tested with the live values showing on the fault reader. Without checking all the resistances I think the front are different to the back and are not interchangeable.

Fair play mate, that is a solid explanation. I would not have a had a clue tbh that was how it all worked so great to get the knowledge. Much appreciated.

Thank you for this. Why are Skoda uk so evasive? I thought it was a simple question. Then again I've never dealt with a main s dealer before.... So you buy a service plan and oh low and behold there are loads of things needing to be done to keep your warranty that you have to pay for and also a long list of exclusions. £105 for spark plugs....

I look on it as, is it safe, against technically illegal. Informed my insurance company anyway, along with every other mod done to the car. I am more than confident there will be no blow out.

Brill thank you! Crazy how the postage works on those sites, I'll have a scout around 👍🏼

Item 100 here, I think (on the right side anyway) LLLParts Other side on this page: LLLParts, same conn. The three pin/wire sizes appear to be helpfully listed in the 'note' column.

I even took pics, apparently. Different arrangement on the mk1 Fabia though, four separate male connectors within the overall black 'carrier', which - unlike yours - appears to itself have to be inserted from the outside. So on the Fabia it looks like the (4 individual) loom connectors get posted out through the hole, clipped into the back of the carrier and then that clipped into the hole from outside inwards.

@meekhongIs it a Front Wheel Drive 1.6 TDI or an AWD? (Has haldex and a different DSG) If FWD then the DQ200 has 2 oils, in the box and in the MCU. The Clutches are dry. If you have a DQ200 they should have told you no DSG Oil change required. (You can have it changed if you want, people do, but the person needs to know what they are doing.)

A 245HP FWD car is not ideal for UK winters. Try a 4x4 next time, as they will put the power down through all four wheels inside of just two.

I would say they supplied the wrong door loom then. There are many options. I have done this. The best way to order the correct door loom is to use the number on the white label on your current door loom, that is the VW Part Number. To get to that you remove the elbow rest (screws), click off the door card, remove the plastic door liner (I just pulled mine back as much as I needed to access), drill the rivets off the speaker to remove that. Then it is pretty obvious and as said the part number will be on your current loom. I remember I was driving round for a couple of weeks with all that removed, using a pair of mole grips on the cable to open the door, while I waited for the replacement loom to turn up. You need 4 large pop-rivets when replacing the speaker.

Hi all, I bought a 2001 Fabia in lockdown and it has been a bit of a project to fix and get running, loving the car so far! Cheers

I buy them from the online site, Blackcircles. They deliver to a garage on their list of your choice and you just turn up and have them fitted there.

I think the answer is that the front door modules are data-connected to/by the convenience CANbus; but the rear door window modules are only connected by single wire LIN bus to their respective/same-side front door modules. So although the rear may have all its wiring intact, if its same-side companion front door module isn't operational, it won't get command info from anywhere central.

Yes you're right. But what I couldn't/ haven't figured out is why the broken front door common earth stopped the rear N/S rear door functions working. I would have thought the doors would have had their own negative feed. Which is why I was looking for wiring diagrams when I 1st got into this. The two large + - feed wires go to the door control modules which both the front doors have. So they must also control the rear doors. I don't know if the rear doors also have control modules as I've not had the door cards YET! As I mentioned in your thread I know at least one of the rear doors has wires with cracked insulation. The Haynes online manual I bought has very little wiring information other than the locations of all the earthing points.

I can't be the only one thinking 'Jeep'...?

. A couple of things; presumably those wheels are 8J, and do you have (or could you possibly take) an oblique photo that shows how much rim protection those tyres provide? Obviously 245s are wider than 225s, but it's difficult to tell how much wider they are until you see them on a wheel. The simplistic diagrams on tyre size comparison websites aren't much use really. .

Yes.

I know someone who needs to replace 20” tyres on an X5. With wider rears than fronts. For decent tyres the bill will be close to £1,000. Wow! I’ll stick with “small”.

Just a quick update - I was at the dealer today, my car now has provisional date 07/23 so July 2023 - I honestly have no words.....

Thanks guys, might steer clear I think 👍🏻

Strictly speaking, I wonder whether the sequence should in fact be: 1. Come to stop 2. Apply parking brake 3. release footbrake 4. put into "P"? I tend to find that on a slope, there's still usually a small amount of additional movement as the car settles on its rear springs once the footbrake is released.

You fit your wheel /tyres, reset the TPMS and even if the tyre pressures are all a bit different maybe even a spare of a slightly different size is fitted, or different sized pair front and rear are fitted and the system does not have a flaky.

No. Thats because you bought a Vauxhall, or more specifically an Insignia.

It’s a lot better now. Lower traffic volumes and fully open motorway means you can do the whole stretch at 60.

Yes. TPMS works using the wheel speed sensors. Each wheel has a speed sensor that sends a signal back to a computer. This compares the signals from all the sensors and it looks out for quick changes between the wheels. If one/some of the wheels start travelling at a different speed compared to the other wheel/wheels it can set of the TPMS. EG:- Or:- Tyre/tyres getting hotter than the rest of the tyres. Or:- One tyre deflating because of a puncture. Thanks, AG Falco

If you want a good plug in and play remap I would go with Superchips. I have used them in about 5 or 6 of my cars and never had an issue with the map or from the map being installed. I have had Shark before (now Racing Line) and almost got one for my current Skoda. But Superchips have excellent maps and also £100 off. They come to you to install it or you can get a Bluefin/Powergate handheld to do it yourself.

2018 car so 4 years old. Main 12v battery could be on the way out and it's not uncommon for gremlins to appear with a low voltage in the main system. If you have a charger I'd give it a boost. The chances of 4 coincells from 3 manufacturers being out are very unlikely. If you have not had an issue with the fob up to now I'd been inclined to look at the car itself.

Finally all the door functions for the nearside doors are now restored 😊 I've replaced a section of around 200mm of each of the cables even though not all of them were damaged I figured it was likely it might not be long before they did as the insulation was stiff and hard. After soldering the 29 amp earth and positive cables I decided not to use anymore heat shrink solder sleeve connectors at the plug end as they stiffen up the cables by increasing the insulation thickness which I didn't think was a good idea in the door hinge area where the cables are constantly flexing. So I soldered the remaining 14amp, 11amp and 7amp wires and used thinner heat shrink.

I've still got the same issue with both N/S doors not working. Though have now found the earth cable to the N/S front door has broken. Can also see the positive cable insulation is cracked. I can understand why none of the door functions aren't working but why would that affect all the rear door functions? I've not checked the wiring for that door yet. It would be good to have sight of detailec wiring diagrams.

It wasn't a 5 minute job taking the seat covers off! The front seat covers took ages to get off!

I have my suspicions that mine was used as taxi. I got some paperwork with the car and some of the invoices for spare parts were addressed to a business. When I Googled it came back as a private car taxi firm. Also the car had vinyl seat covers which I thought were covering up damaged / worn seats. On removing the covers I found the black suede leather seats are in quite good condition despite the high mileage of the car. When I said that neither of the N/S door functions work that wasn't strictly true as today I've checked and both the N/S door speakers are working. When I bought the car the N/S door mirror was working as were the doors locking.

That's about 240mm of each of the 13 cables replaced in the drivers door loom. The 2 N/S doors still have none of the functions working. So now on to the next door!

Before I started I checked for error codes and found 4 one for each door. The 2 intermittent ones cleared and the 2 for the passenger doors remained.

Thanks Gav, yes I've seen some of those posts already. Though maybe I haven't got the hang of the search function? As it never seems very easy to find hings I'm looking for? I can't believe only having one broken wire in the drivers door loom that I've lost all the functions on the N/S doors? So maybe there are more damaged wires? As DEL8OY has previously mentioned he's found broken wires where the insulation is still intact IIRC. I've now noticed that the insulation is quite brittle on most of the front door loom wires and found a crack in the insulation on one wire in the loom to the front N/S passenger door. The rear door wires are probably not far behind though guess that they are likely to last longer as I rarely have passengers so the wires aren't being made to flex as often. I'll buy several meters of the correct wire gauge and these type of connectors from this supplier who is local to me though aren't open till Monday otherwise I'd have gone today. https://www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk/c-60-terminals/c-205-heat-shrink-pre-insulated-terminals/p-510-red-heat-shrink-solder-butt-connector , https://www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk/c-60-terminals/c-205-heat-shrink-pre-insulated-terminals/p-511-blue-heat-shrink-solder-butt-connector I'll replace all the wires in the front door looms for new more flexible wire. I've seen the kits on Ebay but at around £30 a door is more than I want to pay and I've currently got the time as I'm between jobs. I appreciate for a garage to source a repair kit as it's probably the quickest cheapest option for the customer.

No, the replacement unit will need CP (Component Protection) removing and any optional FEC (Feature Enabling Codes) restored which will need a dealer or someone with online access to the Skoda servers, then it will need the coding and adaptation channnels checking/correcting to match the configuration of your car.