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I learned how to become a Common Rail diesel Expert! MY12 Yeti SE 4WD Tdi is now healthy and smoke free. Fault finding was a journey of patience with some wrong turns and a few self inflicted mistakes. I'll contribute my rough notes in case anybody else has similar diesel engine problems: 1. Working on a 2l common rail diesel isn't easy. Removing parts can be difficult and expensive if things don't go to plan. Start by understanding the possible problems, causes, and plan to do checks and tests which avoid removing parts. 2. Smoke can be one of 3 kinds or a mixture: Black smoke = Excessive diesel or insufficient air, Blue smoke = Oil burn, white + blue smoke = oil + coolant water burn. 3. Smoke can have several causes. Severe black smoke (rolling coal) can be caused by faulty (open) fuel injector(s), low compression,loss of turbo boost pressure (insufficient air) or EGR problems may also affect air supply. 4. Oil burning blue smoke can come from bad piston rings, valve seals, excessive crank case pressure, bad turbo seals, faulty EGR operation, or blocked up and gunged EGR, pipes and inlet manifold. Also check the PCV. 5. Most of these possible causes are hard to prove, but doing the least invasive checks first will eliminate many possible causes. 6. Check 1: Run diagnostics and check there are no engine malfunction codes. If no, then smoke problems arise because the cause isn't measured and reported by diagnostics. Check 2: Check for Excessive crank case pressure/blowback on idle by removing the oil cap and feeling with your hand. I actually measured my crank case pressure. You cannot do it at the dipstick because the tube is below the sump oil level. I used a spare V.W oil cap, drilled a centre hole for some pvc tube and connected it to a Monument Gas water gauge - but you can just use a long tube formed as a 'U' and put in some dyed water. I measured a partial vacuum of 3-4 inches WG on idle (Good). Check 3: Do a compression test on each cylinder via the glowplug aperture (M10 x 1mm). N.B Most Chinese compression test tools are for petrol engines up to 300 psi and don't have the pressure or long reach adaptors required for diesels. I found a cheap 0-1000psi diesel comp. test set. Check 4: Test each fuel injector connector with a multimeter: All 0.5 ohm = solenoid type = Good. All >200k ohm= piezo=Good. Check 5: Injector leak off test. This requires plastic hoses connected to each fuel injector leak line. The amount of fuel leaking back is measured on idle for 30 seconds, then at about 2K rpm. There isn't an exact science, but the leak off volumes should be similar from each fuel injector and there should be some. The purpose of this simple test is to identify unusual fuel injector operation before trying to remove it. Warning: Bosch injectors code 03L/130/277J (0445 110 369 B004) are strange because the injector leak off connection is done with a nozzle and push fitting internal plastic retaining clip. Cheap Chinese test kits for Bosch injectors using external clips won't fit this type. They are also damn dangerous, because it's too easy for the plastic retainer to not engage and fill your engine bay with diesel!! Check 6: Dynamic injector pressure test: Risky but some do it wearing gloves and safety glasses: Reverse the injector link to the common rail and tape the injector into a clear plastic tonic water bottle. Remove injector plugs to other 3 injectors to stop firing and have a second person crank whilst looking at the spray pattern. These injector nozzles have 4 outlets. You can only see them on the tip with a magifier or microscope. Check 7: Eliminate the turbo as far as possible. Turbos passing oil causes blue smoke, particularly during acceleration. Remove a large clip on the turbo intercooler hose and check inside for any excessive oil pooling inside. The turbo is fed with high pressure oil which drains through gravity back to the sump. Check the turbo oil drain isn't blocked. The crank case back pressure (should be a vacuum!) is important because positive pressure prevents oil draining from the turbo and forces it past seals. Many good turbos are replaced when these are the real problems.It's more difficult to check turbo seal oil leaks on the exhaust side without removing the DPF and pipes - a horrendous job on the 4x4. Even if these tests as much as you can do all look o.k, that is confirmation to look elsewhere. 7. I didn't do an injector leak test first (I should have). My test conclusions led me to fuel injectors. A diesel specialist will test 4 injectors for £80. If MY12 Yeti had done over 120k instead of 75k, I wouldn't have bothered testing the injectors, just go to a German firm that will supply a set of 4 re-conditioned and re-calibrated with test certificates. Another option I didn't do was buy a used injector for about £70, take a chance it was good and use it as a swap to check the others. After testing I was told injector 2 was so bad it shouldn't go back. But removing injector 2 gave me so much grief I could have damaged it? I was still uncertain and went ahead to buy a used injector with the same part codes from a Passat. 8. Removing a fuel injector from this CR engine: Easy is gently lift up with a flat screwdriver blade using the ABS rocker housing as a fulcrum point. That didn't work for me. Next option is a slide hammer. There are some Ebay injector removal kits using a slide hammer. The first type require the large nut holding the solenoid to be removed in the car. Frought because the solenoid pin, spring and spacer washer can jump out. Safest is the removal tool (Laser) that attaches to the side of the injector body using its fuel inlet nipple. The most important thing is impact must be absolutely vertical on the mounted centre line of the injector. I made a removal tool that clamps to the side with the fuel inlet nipple. 9. When injectors are removed you can check if their stem O rings are still in situ. Mine were burned away. This O rings prevents oil from inside the rocker casing falling down and welling close to the hot injector nozzle, it isn't the primary seal. There's an important copper sealing washer underneath each nozzle, this often drops back into the hole as the injector is removed. Remove the ABS rocker cover because you can then see lower down and inspect the PCV diaphragm. 10. In my case, some injectors had significant black gunge around their nozzles and copper washers were scored. The worst had a part of the surface blown away! The consequence of this is compression leaks inside the valve cover adding dieselto oil blow back and being fed into the exhaust. Remember I said check the compression leak readings for each cylinder! I replaced the copper nozzle washers and even lapped them smooth. I checked the cylinder head nozzle surfaces and gently cleaned them up a little with a 15mm flat cutter. The Chinese seat cutter set was flawed. Their smallest 15mm cutter head fits on a 17mm mandril which I had to turn down to 15mm. 11. Diesel Fuel injectors: I assumed they were piezo, I found no local or online firm that would recondition them. I should have measured them first with a multimeter. Mine were about 0.5 ohms each. Therefore they are solenoid type. A piezo injector will measure very high resistance. Bosch are very clever at making it difficult to do any servicing. The nozzles are coded and you can find parts, but the hex head they put on the nozzle won't fit any wrench. You can remove the insulated solenoid head with a large spanner, but small parts and a spring can leap out and get lost!! 12. Fuel injectors are coded: Before removing any fuel injector you should note the unique serial number code (7 digits) and its corresponding cylinder. If you have previously scanned the car, check the serial numbers and their position tie up. If they don't, somebody has been messing with injectors, replaced them or mixed them up! The 7 digit Bosch injector code incorporate a calibration value of tested fuel volume which the ECU stores. Using vcds and their 'Security access code' popup you enter the injector serial number. When this is done the ECU is supposed to learn and adapt to the new calibration. In practice, I think this means your engine will run smoothly without much diesel knocking? If you didn't recode an injector, I'm sure the engine would still run. 13. On the home straight I replaced the ABS rocker cover which I destroyed to get access to a stuck injector, fitted 4 injectors with new Viton O rings and copper sealing washers, fitted all the diesel pipework and got ready to purge the fuel lines using diagnostics. That done and after some prolonged cranking with a fully charged battery, the engine ran with NO SMOKE. It runs a lot smoother than it did before and I haven't had to replace a turbo, pistons, valves or piston rings. CONCLUSION: Rolling coal black smoke was probably caused by poor injector nozzle sealing and a faulty injector.

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They are giving them away and all have matrix lights. This is what I find most troubling. I am more interested in that guided tour for children. I imagine it looks something like: "Look kids, these are all unfinished cars. Sometimes it pays off not finishing what you started, if you are smart enough, you can even get paid more. Moving on to production line. Listen kids, on the right side cars are missing door panels, so let us move on, here cars are missing chips. The line behind this one is stopped, because we don't have some harnesses, but anyway, look at this shiny robot. He is standing still, because we humans don't know what we are doing. Anyway, people are angry with us, because we are the worst at managing this situation, but if you are incompetent remember, just lie, lie, lie. Kids, now we are going to take a ride on the next line, so at least it is used for something. Thank you for coming and remember, customers are stupid. Bye kids, come again if you want to see what will be missing next...".

It’s only the very early cars that had that security issue, changed as stated above in 2019? Never the less I always disable the system before leaving the car by locking with the button and touching the dimple to disable this feature. The car does not lock immediately as you walk away and could be unlocked if you stay nearby allowing entry for theft when not looking? Not sure how quickly it locks and how far you have to move away before it locks?

Don’t forget that you can disable the car from receiving a signal by locking from the fob and then touching the dimple on the door handle within a short time afterwards. 🔑

Looe

With VCDS in section 17 (Instruments) the output tests should drive the needle to prove the instrument motor is ok

The nice view from our holiday let in cornwall just arrived this aft 👍

Maybe also mention to the tuner that you want it mapped more for economy. Doesn't have to mean no extra power. Just that it'll be optimised for smoothness etc instead of hunting for peak power figures which can be quite aggressive. I had similar maps on both my last 2 cars and they drove lovely.

Dude, you can make them, before you will get your car. I am getting one next month, still no info about the car and I ordered the car few months before I made one. 🤣

I have fixed the gear knob. A bit of Googling revealed a replacement insert for a VRS with the same locating lugs as my insert but at a cost of £43. I changed the last digit of the part number from 2 to 1 and I found an image of an updated part classed as a repair kit that could fit my car at approx 9 euros. Part number - 6Y0798001 On Monday I called my local Skoda dealer and they confirmed the part number I had researched was correct. Apparently a well known problem where the flaking chrome cuts fingers. I collected the part for £10.26 then fitted within a minute, perfect fit, job done!

Your keys have motion sensors which disable the key if its not moved for a while. So when the key is stationery in your house the method of 'reading' your key and relaying to the car won't work.

As I understand it, when the key has been motionless for 15 minutes, it ceases transmitting. I tested this on my previous 2019 Karoq, and found that to be the case.

Mine has ABS but the speedo signal still comes from a sensor on the gearbox. VAG like to confuse people.

Hi Ryan... I forgot about this but if you've still not found anyone check the postage cost to see if its worthwhile as I'd probably have a go for you.

The RPM & coolant temperature are sent via the engine ECU on the CANbus drive network, the vehicle speed and fuel quantity are analogue inputs into the speedo unit however if the car has ABS then the vehicle speed is also via the CANbus via the ABS control unit

The thing about hybrids that stagger me is the complexity of the beast. It really does seem to have the regular complexity of a petrol engine car, plus that of an EV and also the compromises it makes having two different systems working independently, sympathetically, assisting each other and also filling in the compromises, such as in EV mode the 12V batteries aren't charged! But it does get around range anxiety for people such as myself who do bigger mileage and pretty long runs.

To test the stepper motor that drives the rpm needle you could maybe swap the motors between speedo and tacho, I have a feeling they are the same.

But a bit further in the manual it shows two different outlet pipe configs Fuel filter upper part, type A 1 -8 Nm 2 -(Not necessarily installed) plug for water extraction (unscrew and extract about 100 cm3 liquid using diesel extractor -VAS 5226- (renew seal). 3 -Fuel supply line from fuel tank, white or white marking. Ensure secure seating. 4 -Fuel return line to fuel tank, blue or blue marking. Ensure secure seating. 5 -Fuel supply line to engine, white or white marking. Ensure secure seating. 6 -Fuel return line from engine, blue or blue marking. Ensure secure seating. Fuel filter upper part, type B 1 -5 Nm 2 -Fuel return line to fuel tank, blue or blue marking. Ensure secure seating. 3 -Fuel supply line from fuel tank, white or white marking. Ensure secure seating. 4 -Fuel return line from engine, blue or blue marking. Ensure secure seating. 5 -Fuel supply line to engine, white or white marking. Ensure secure seating.

You'll be hard pressed to do that on my current car (VW Touareg) no dipstick fitted just the empty tube, only way to check the level is via the info screen and only after the oil is at working temperature and if it's empty it's a bit late to find out, that's why I bought a dipstick from a Q7 at least I can now check the level before the engine makes a horrible noise

To be fair, having come from a Passat with MIB 2.5 to a superb with MIB3, I'd actively avoid another new VW/Skoda/Seat for that reason alone.

There are a few different types of filter.

Therefore the level has not gone up (measurably), you are getting a false reading by not wiping the dipstick before checking the level.

I would allow yourself about 20 to 30 mins depending on the speed of your sd card.

Is this any good. https://www.google.com/search?q=photos+skoda+greenline+fuel+lines&client=firefox-b-d&sxsrf=ALiCzsawM-SemboYxYvjy9RZIORSFEYZUA:1654957950661&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&vet=1&fir=gPAlU4wiPSgVqM%2CUBArsLC8x3INbM%2C_%3BraoUOvvDLnptKM%2CisULzcRH3qea6M%2C_%3BzPRD0rKsagZWjM%2CEBARcAA99973gM%2C_%3BPQf_J0a2y2ZO8M%2CBJLVsGOaV5nkIM%2C_%3BNOJ2F1kd5bj_UM%2CSbgT3-xELECbYM%2C_%3BrDJdloMUpVvW6M%2CLCrtRnbiQSv3pM%2C_%3BuocWYIOCGuQ0gM%2CG9gUYbiKr5sZqM%2C_%3B3JSMh3U7IGAESM%2CSTQgG-77sZY3QM%2C_%3Brb6yumdz6g-TeM%2CYz2YQidDZ2a6WM%2C_%3BN_JImdCNpA8K6M%2C8y8aVC_onPVbZM%2C_&usg=AI4_-kQq6ia_VEFbGS1YDMmsPtUYCxoTBA&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjavJHmzqX4AhVPSkEAHVgLCaUQ9QF6BAgGEAE#imgrc=gPAlU4wiPSgVqM

@SurreyJohn What tosh, you need to stop believing Social Media. Where does the thousands of UK Mot Examiner find the Type Approved tyre size for the particular vehicle presented to them.

It will be marginal, but as fuel consumption varies with outside temperature you probably won’t notice

@roottoot via lex. Interestingly they advise the repair time is 6 hours! I can imagine the appetite for a the dealer to have that taking up the ramp for 6 hours is slim to nil. I'm going wait and get it done with the next service.

You missed my meaning (unlike you). It was meant to read more about the warnings of some tuners who hunt for peak power which either burns through the turbo, drives too snatchy on power or both. As it happens both my mapped diesels did return more mpg because I used the power more. As for supporting mods for a "stage 1" map on a diesel? Don't worry about it. Diesels breath well as standard so no need for a performance intake or exhaust. If you were going further with the power output then it might help. But not with a simple map. I'd be expecting something like 180-185hp up from 148.

Good. Good to give people a clue where you are and what the car is, it saves them having to ask.

@roottoot In our Czech Republic, the engine is not essential for an active HSA from the factory, but the equipment..standard from the factory does not have an active Ambition and it does not matter what engine is there, whether MPI or TSI. The Style trim already has an active HSA from the factory for all engines. So specifically in my case I have a non SHA factory Ambition 1.0 MPI 59kW.

I'm an hour southwest of Edinburgh and southeast of Glasgow. I know colleagues who have used guys in Larkhall and Carlisle without issues so far.both are between 45 minutes and 70 minutes drive from me.

@cav1904 Just a clue on the general area and then me or someone else can point you towards a reliable remapper / tuner. Re Warranty. Not valid then with 'None factory approved softare / engine management or hardware' So you are a bit stuffed there.

Welcome. Where are you in Scotland? Be sure that you insure with a company fine with Remaps. Just get the car, be sure all is well then head for a reputable tuner of which there are plenty in Scotland and you are sorted. http://ecotune-scotland.co.uk

There seems to be a lot of dealers not having a clue what they’re working with here and just taking guesses lol. if your acc is unavailable it means there is a problem, the car knows there is a problem and will of already self diagnosed it leaving a fault code. Chances are the calibration of the front radar will be knocked out by something as simple as a pot hole. The reason it comes and goes is because it could be just on the threshold of the tolerances before throwing a code. This is one of them systems with a very good self diagnosis and a very small tolerance for error and should be straight forward to work out the fault. a simple reset probably means they have no idea and just cleared the codes and gave it back and if it happens again they’ll take a look. it’s worrying how many ‘qualified’ people don’t know anything about adas systems

Skoda/VW say you should check it warm, so I wouldn't worry about it.

Missed the sunset this evening, but did spot some ducklings and the moon👍

Try one of the ‘good’ batteries in the ‘bad’ key as there’s been quite a few instances recently of new ‘good’ batteries that aren’t!

Actually they are not. My friend ordered a Citroen Berlingo in the middle of the 2021. He was give no information whatsoever. A month ago he got a call that they need to pay an extra 2000 EUR, the car MIGHT arrive by the end of the year, and they also said they can't guarantee with what options the car will arrive. It may arrive with the parking sensors or not, it may arrive with the revers camera or not, etc. Of course they canceled the order. After almost a year of waiting.

Took it to the fella up the road. He got a gadget out of a drawer and plugged it in and 30 seconds later I was on my way. Sorted.

First quick ride...as in time not speed 😀 These I've watched over the last 2-3 years grow from frisky foals

Not sure I like it as much in those photos. As you said though, pictures don’t do it justice and the lighting probably doesn’t help. Would have to see it in the flesh. Maybe in vRS spec with black badges 🤔

The deed is done! After loving my Freelander (which never failed me, willingly towed a caravan and generally good all round hack) was getting a tad frustrayed with draining the bank account regularly to fill the tank for about 33mpg! AWMBO has had a 2.0 2017 Yeti for 3 years, only the 2wd, but great little motor and so frugal for what it is. So after a few weeks looking round found a 2016 4x4 190 horse Superb 3, the first drive home today was a real eye opener! Economy, comfort, and convieniece loaded! What a bus! So, hopefully get a towbar added in a couple of weeks and then evaluate as a towcar on summer hols! Already ordered spacesaver from fleabay, boot mat from Amazon so the hound cant coat it with mud & hair, and possibly get it detailed for long term protection. Anyhow, that's why I'm here, as for me an aging telephone engineer who is looking to escape the chains of the industry, love my motorcycles (Fazer 1000 for smiles, Honda Transalp 700 for just enjoying the ride, a BSA A10 golden Flash and Norton Commando to keep the spanner skills up!) and my very considerate and long suffering wife! A caravan, some countryside or beach, butty box and a flask and with the wife, and the mutt what more do you need! Looking forward to a plethera of valid (and insignificant1) data that will come my way - just love forums! Kettle's always on for like minded folk passing the threshold in Shropshire!

I've got these on mine at the moment - I'll be moving them on soon, possibly, maybe..... If my tyre guy ever gets back to me with prices for the other alloys I'm putting on 😥

I've recently changed all the springs and shock absorbers on my 2012 2.0 4 x 4 Superb which had 180,00 on the clock when I bought it. I've only replaced with standard gas shocks but on the front I've certainly noticed a difference and the car no longer wallows on undulating roads. Started with a broken front spring, when I came to change both front springs found that neither front shock absorber had much gas left in them and were extremely lethargic. Untitled.mp4

Went from two cars to one last year and following extensive google searches I narrowed the choice to Citroen C4,Ford Puma, Kia Niro and Skoda Kamiq. After many test drives chose the Skoda Kamiq. I was given two cars the test drive at Mitchells; 1.0 SE dsg and a 1.5 SEL manual. I didn’t buy from them but travelled to east Yorkshire. Mitchells were aware I wasn’t buying from them but their service was excellent. They fitted a reversing camera for me which was flawless. Took it in again to look at an annoying rattle when I was informed that Skoda only cover rattles etc for the first 6 months on the new car warranty. They found the rattle was caused by a panel under the car that hadn’t been tightened properly when I had a tow bar fitted (not by Mitchells). I was told beforehand that they would give me 1 hour labour free and would contact me before any chargeable work was done. No charge for fixing the rattle. They updated the Amundsen software, washed the car and painted the tyres. All in all my experience of the staff at Mitchells has been very good. They bought one of my cars from me and gave me a better price than anyone else in this area. I highly recommend Michells.

Use Fuchs 502 00 rated, 5w40. Mainly because of the childishly amusing mame.

I've figured it out. It took two cups of coffee, some flapjack and a bit of logical thinking. If both mechanisms were doing the same thing, it must be me who's doing something wrong. In the end I realised that the pin mechanism that goes up & down has to be as far over as possible to the left when unlocked. Then I figured that the tab that fits to the handle needed some fine tuning. Too far in & the door wouldn't open. Too far out and it moved the pin mechanism out of position. Get it just right and it works!

The first one we'll see in the real world will probably come out of the factory sometime next Christmas at this pace.