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Collected today and love it, love it, love it! I'll post in the pictures thread soon 🙂

Estate SE in Energy Blue 💙 Collected today.

Hello guys, my dealer wrote me today that the car has now an engine number, too, and it's expected to arrive at the dealership between the 5th and 9th of September. Let's see... RS TSI, DSG, ordered July 2021

Welcome to the (not so exclusive) "waiting_for_my_Octavia" Club!!! Feel free to fill in your details on the club-membership list: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/17h4myLSMpZ3dohgDJX25mkOhKLbyepEaeEeYcA3AqFY/edit#gid=0

Hello guys, I've been a long time lurker, but am a first time poster, simply because i didn't have any interesting content to post before. Now we have a few interesting projects on the go, so hopefully I can share some of my learning with everyone here. I'm going to split my first post into 2 parts, 1. Mods already completed 2. Mods currently underway ( 2L swap and build) I'm from India and we only got the EA888 Gen3 Skoda Superb in the 1.8 TSI configuration ( I believe Golf GTI), paired with the DQ200 box which is known to **** itself at the slightest hint of torque. After a few months of abuse with an IS20 turbo (stock is12) the gearbox started to show signs of giving up. We swapped this box out for a DQ250 from a Skoda Octavia. Parts needed were 1. Transmission 2. DQ 250 connector 3. Flywheel 4. Starter motor 5. Aux cooling pump and kya plumbing 6. Transmission Mount. 7. Shift linkage 8. Stub axles After studying the wiring diagrams of both cars, we cut the stock connector and solder in the new one, in hind sight i would have liked to make a patch harness, but at the time I could not find a DQ200 male connector. Once installed, ofcourse the car was not happy with me and threw a whole host of errors and refused to come out of neutral. We connected ODIS and were able to adapt the immobilizer on the transmission to the car, and all seemed again. Took the car out for a drive and everything went without incident. Fast forward a few weeks , the IS20 now started feeling slow, and since we were no longer torque limited, why not swap out for an IS38? IS38 turbo swap done and then onto a custom tuning session on the dyno, with the 2.0 TSI is38 as a benchmark. Although the numbers were good, the torque and power loss due to the slightly lower displacement is quite significant, and something that irritated us. We decided to think of the next step, and in the mean while drove the car as is, and added more parts, a full list is on the link below. http://instagr.am/p/CLOhEfgAhjb/ Ofcourse after a few months, the itch for an upgrade bit again, and the next logical route was the 2.5L DAZA from an RS3. Due to some issues in the import process and a few other issues we lost some money and the parts , and the dream of the DAZA will remain a dream for now... What's the next best thing we can do? It was obvious we had to go bigger, but how? For the time being we decided to swap out the 1.8 tsi for a 2.0 tsi crate motor, the swap was relatively easy and cost approximately 9k GBP to do. Parts needed 1. CHHA base engine 2. 2.0 TSI DI injectors 3. 2.0 TSI HPFP 4. All single time use gaskets etc as we were retaining the old thermostat, oil coolers, and all ancillaries. The installation was relatively straight forward as half of the work had already been taken care of during the dq250 swap, ie the flywheel, transmission etc. We had the old 1.8tsi out and the new 2.0 tsi, with all the old ancillaries in the same day. Fired it up just to make sure, and it started. Great news! We the decided what direction to take with the software side of things. One was was to just tune the 1.8 and make up for the changes , but that would be crude and never perfect. Also we wanted to run APR software, so that made it impossible.... Second way was to truly make the car believe it was no longer a 1.8 TSI Skoda Superb, rather a 2.0 tsi Skoda Superb. We took te software number from a Skoda Octavia RS that we are familiar with and flashed the frf with ODIS. Flash successful, all great! WRONG! While the flash was successful, the car refused to start, and was immobilisd. Strange we thought, but tried to adapt immo line, however it then struck us what has happened. The instrument Cluster and the Engine Ecu contain PowerClass data, it is imperative for both of these to match, on order for the car to work. We ofcourse had the wrong data on the engine ECU, and hence no start. Scratched our heads a bit and then remembered a question i had asked a long time ago to someone who make immo off solutions for the SIMOS18 ecus. They told me they can run the engine on a test bench, without any other modules connected, this got me thinking, surely there is a way to run with mismatched powerclass. I opened the ecu and read the factory file in boot mode. A friend helped me "adapt" the immo in the ecu, so it would ignore the powerclass, but still be active so nobody can steal the car with a dodgy key. Flashed this adapted file onto the ecu and viola we have the first and only Gen3 2.0 Superb running in the country. We took it for a drive and instantly got crazy short term fuel trim. While we had suspected the DI injectors would not be the same between 1.8 and 2.0, they were from the same Bosch family, so assumed it would work, however, rather than try again and depending on fuel trim and risking a brand new engine, we decided to order the correct injectors. The 7 day wait for injectors seemed like months, but finally the new injectors were here and a quick swap later we were out for a test drive. The car was totally transformed, i know it's hard to believe but what a difference those 180 odd cc can make, but believe me ,it's a lot! Next was to put the IS38 turbo back on and flash the corresponding APR tune. 380 HP and 501 NM, not bad for a Skoda Superb Ofcourse the thing with an itch is.... The more you scratch it, the bigger it gets, so we already have the next upgrade thought of, parts are in transit and should be a VERY interesting build, definitely the only one in my country, and probably under a hand full abroad as well, as when i was doing my research, nobody seemed to have all the answers to my questions http://instagr.am/p/CdL7Ho9N_be/

My 2019 Octavia was first registered on 29 October 2019. I purchased the car from a Skoda dealership towards the end of September 2020, when it was 11 months old. The vehicle was previously a demonstrator and before I accepted delivery, the dealer carried out an oil and filter change. After 12 months, the instrument display reminded me that the next inspection service was due. Although I had covered reduced mileage (due to Covid restrictions), the dealership wanted to perform a very expensive major service. I insisted upon a cheaper interim service, with an oil and filter change. The invoice shows that the dealer used Castrol Edge 5W-30 Long Life Engine Oil, which is approved to VW 504 00 / 507 00 specifications. The dealer also recorded brief details of the service on the Skoda Digital Service Record. The three year manufacturer’s warranty will expire on 28 October 2022, when the car will also require another service and its first MOT. This time, I shall opt for a full service. Before I purchased my Skoda, all of my previous cars have been serviced by a reliable non-franchised garage. I should like to use the same garage for my next service and in readiness for that service, I had the opportunity to purchase 5 litres of the same Castrol Edge oil (which cost a fraction of the price that most garages charges for that oil). Unlike the Skoda franchise, the independent garage will be happy to use my oil and charge for the MOT, parts and labour only. The owner of the garage has assured me that he will perform the service to the full Skoda specification and says he can record details of the service on the Skoda Digital Service Record. I would prefer to preserve the full digital service history, so can anyone confirm whether independent garages have access to the Skoda records? And if so, is there any other reason why I should not use the independent garage for the last major service, before the warranty expires?

Got any adhesive-lined heatshrink sleeving that'll fit over that pipe?

The changes with generation / evolution of tyres and tread depths for different applications and even world regions is something that is not discussed that often. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/473898-tyre-tread-depth-changed http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/493035-at-what-tread-depth-do-you-change-tyres

By hand you basically need a hand polish that you can apply by hand, with some elbow grease and wipe off. The below example is not too bad, it will polish up minor scratches and contains fillers to cover up some small scratches, so when the light reflection hits you, you no longer appear to see it. https://www.autoglym.com/super-resin-polish (Apply very, very thinly, less is more) If you wasn't in Wales, then you could have popped round for a polish, as I have a machine (never know if someone on here is local enough and willing to assist) Anyhow, properly maintaining your car's shine can lead you down a rabbit hole! We're talking 2 bucket method washing. Claying the car to remove industrial fallout and such, road tar spots. Washing again. Microfiber drying cloths. Polishing. Washing again possibly. Applying a sealant. Applying a good wax. Wishing you never asked, as your Sundays now belong to your car.

My previous Kodiaq started making a noise from the rear when manoeuvring out a space with full steering lock on. And this was after Haldex oil change and pump filter cleaned @ 3rd service. New Haldex pump and oil changed again under warranty.

Yes for sure 👌

At a guess, either water ingress to the underside of the headlight or a damaged level sensor It'll probably just mean the headlight drop to a 'safe' mode to avoid glare to other drivers. If you minimise night time driving, you'll probably be OK until you get home.

Hi Italiano, and welcome to the forum! It shouldn't be too different to a MK2 octi, so if you have VCDS you would know what seat is at fault because it tells you that and also what air bag is at fault. If it is the side airbag igniter then it will be a front seat wiring issue as I don't think the mk3 fabia's have rear side airbags on a 20009, could be wrong, but either way a simple diagnostic test will tell you which seat it is. If you go to the side seat (front) that has the issue and raise it if possible to expose as much as possible under the seat then look for the YELLOW connector plug, once you have found this try first just unplugging it with the ignition switched OFF the just check for any dirt / debris that may be in there and give it a blow out and reconnect it, then turn the ignition back on again, if it's a simple bit of crap in a connector then the light will go out and not come back on again, which in alot of cases it is simply that, if it comes back on then there will be a wiring issue. For this you will need to inspect the wiring closer and sometimes it's quite aparrent what the cause is, other times you may need to cut and join wires together cutting out the plug and socket, but that's a last resort. I hope some of this makes a bit of sense to you. I must add, that in the absence of a diagnostic computer such as VCDS the light will still go out without deleting codes, but the codes will still be stored in the ECU until they are cleared using such a computer. Fingers crossed it's a simple fix for you, it was for me and every day at work it's the first thing I do, unplug it, clean it, reconnect it, most of the time it's job done!

@Italianoxx Welcome to the forum. Maybe worth posting in the Fabia Mk2 section with the question.

Early DSGs could be a bit dodgy, especially the dry clutch ones, but later ones are reliable. My Octavia is my first automatic/DSG car, having previously driven manuals since the 1980's. I have the DQ381 and it's excellent. The only time I can wrong-foot it is if I stop, put it in neutral, and then back into drive without delay and sometimes it's a whisker (and I mean a whisker) slow to put me in gear and my throttle input makes the revs rise, and then the clutch can drop in and the car lurch forward. This has more to do with odd driving conditions (and my input) than the gearbox, though. Would definitely have another DSG-equipped car.

@micloi AmanT is asking for help with VCDS. You may wish to edit your car to add a year it was made to assist, as some new cars need a more modern cable to talk to the car. Best of luck.

I've got a spare pump somewhere that I acquired some time back. It's an unknown quantity, and I can't remember what part number without looking at it, but you could try it if you want, for elimination purposes. Could drag an angle sensor out of my spare car too if useful. Have a look (log while driving) at the main permanent feed voltages in measuring block 01, see if the non-working correlates with that being low and the working situations with it being 14V+.

This is probably the airbag connection under the passenger seat which is an issue across the VAG stable.

@roottoot that was my gut, hence I was exploring the ‘rent’ it path on hp/pcp. @skomaz not sure they have. The only person I trusted has left. My bs meter was on alert when a 50KW charge car was listed as 132Kw, and I’d have no idea how to tell from the exterior of the car, unless there is a way? @classic I’m certainly inclined to own, empty the bank style purchase, run for x years till value is minimal. Definitely the way Iv’e done the last few ICE cars. Sure it’s painful on the day, but slowly the balance returns to the mystery account. When. Have enough I can own outright it gives you options. Scary options, but options. I really was HP/PCP as a way of renting past the tech/war bubble. Accepting it would cost more overall. But possibly less than a 5+year drop on tech cycle. I rarely go for the first release of anything, even in my vaguely skilled area of tech. Always wait for the point release or the second generation, it’s worth the wait. I felt I did that in the early ev days, now maybe a little late to the party, timing wise, with a brighter future options down the road… unless china goes for Taiwan in which case we’re all on shanks’ pony by year end and it’s all a paper exercise. Yeah I’m in a positive mood today 😛

Thanks again. Managed to spray cleaner around the assembly, then gripped the knurled nut carefully with vice grips and rocked it gently while pulling upwards and the assembly popped out. The shaft and gear remained as it is a loose fit in the body, but I was able to remove it easily. Next step is to make up a proper locking plate, drain the old fluid, refill to correct level and replace the gear assembly and speedo cable and lock it in place. Thanks for your help and advice - now I know how it goes together (and comes apart) for the next time....

I think Continental wanted to set 4mm as legal minimum tread, and yes Michelin said 1.6mm is good. But Joe public wouldn't really want to fork out so often. I changed mine between 2-3mm, but was definitely more in tune with the car and anything off I noticed.

Yeah, I'll keep digging. It seems to be something that's mentioned in passing, rather than something that's specifically stated.

I have had two new tyres and yes, I only have 7mm depth from new. Another example of shrinkage.

I have a friend who runs his own business in remapping. We as in I have a friend who does remapping. Well the dealer updated my ECU as it was only 1 revision out of date and my tuner said it had been updated recently. The DSG was 3 revisions out of date. I can't tell you the revision numbers as I am the customer. A 2014 1.4 TSI yes. About the TPI's, not sure.

search for channels with word "charisma"

It could be for diesel. Maybe had it's tanks filled more recently and got the fuel cheaper.

At the moment the BP opposite the Station Hotel is cheaper than Morrisons though, according to my Granda.

Because I know they are different, regardless of whether I can see them.

That would wind me up, blinking front indicators but scrolling rears? I’d rather just have one or the other.

I had mine remapped, after a few test runs we couldn't get more than 0.8PSI of boost (up from 0.6PSI). OK so it turned out the actuator needed turning anti-clockwise twice (720 degrees), bingo we have 1PSI of boost, but dropping to 0.9PSI at peak revs. This was achieved in D only, in S we only got 0.9PSI of boost, so D is faster than S. S is only there to hold the revs higher for going round fast corners. We aren't sure at this stage if the issue is the Diverter Valve not holding boost or perhaps there is a torque limit on the DQ200 DSG gearbox. I have since had the Diverter Valve changed for a revision "G". Word of warning, the old one (piston style) fell to bits as I took it out. I can't explain how bad this could've been as a bit almost fell in to the turbo... I am due to go back in the coming months to see if this has worked and for part 2 of my remap...the DQ200 gearbox. Another word of warning, Skoda put tuners protection on my ECU, AND the gearbox! Now as I got my car from a main dealer in 2021 it was quite up to date for the ECU revision and bypassing the tuners protection was easy enough. At the time we couldn't bypass the tuners protection on the DQ200, however we now have the tools to do this. So part 2 is to unlock the DQ200, firmware update it as it was 3 revisions out of date at the time (which means the dealer did not update the DSG when I bought it in 2021. Now the DQ200 gearbox can be remapped for quicker gear changes, better clamping etc. but not entirely sure if I want to go down that route just yet. I want to see if the new diverter valve in combination with an updated DSG gearbox can hold 1PSI of boost. We could've gone higher in terms of boost but then the inlet temps would've just become too high and we would've had to have dumped more fuel in. Currently fuel economy is very good (when you're driving sensibly). On the motorway it's fantastic. I suppose we're after some other numbers here, unfortunately I didn't test beforehand but 0-60MPH was done in 8 seconds flat after several tests via the OBD2 port. Factory sheet says 9.5 but I believe the car is quicker than that by default so... Oh I'm new here BTW! Hello! I have had my car since January 2021 and I have been closely following these forums for the better part of a decade.

Rather than post every PR Code combo, here's how VAG measures pad thickness, and you can also see how many mm you can loose off the discs too So @JR RS you should be looking a min pad 2mm, as they don't include backing plate as specified. For comparison to above example from @roottoot here are VAG specs

ScottB832 (Xhuy10nx) it's as the grumpy one's put, check battery, charging system then pump. The computer's rely on info from the sensors, the computers and (some) sensors work on thin voltage so if your battery and changing system are below par the computers and (some) sensors are the first to suffer as they work on such small rations to have then reduced means they can cry out and struggle to work properly. How do you feel by the end of the working day without two Weetabix for breakfast (sepulchrave of course has four every morning). The 'joy' with a modern car is that not only do you need the electric but also the computer needs to know all and a sensor might be in distress or the computer thinks it is or has a brain-fart of it's own (as if computers or their programs ever play up). So you need good electric supply going through the wires and connectors and also good communications going through other wires and connectors and the computers and their programs satisfied (if never happy). I may have strayed from strict explanations and terminology but I hope you get what I mean. Easiest things to check are battery and its charging - you don't need to wait for an error codes and should never just rely on those alone, but if you have them recognise that they are often not the answer, often merely pointing you to where you start your diagnosis.

Thanks, I ordered one Y rated tyre with the 15% discount. The local fitter is just round the corner from my work 👍. Costco price was similar but a 50 mile round trip. Here's hoping I don't puncture any more tyres anytime soon 😭

Tolkien trail was a tough race, I walked up most of the hills (530ft of elevation in all) but I had done it previously so I knew what was to be expected. Next race, Colshaw Hall 10k on Sunday, a nice flat (ish) road race around the beautiful Cheshire countryside. Lots of races coming up, a lot still which were postponed from Covid lockdowns.

It's easier (read faster) to remove air than add 👌 I presume you need higher pressure because when braking it will transfer the weight of the caravan/trailer into the car, and therefore onto the wheels. As @roottoot mentioned, if it feels really "off" then drop a little front pressure, but just beware under breaking it will transfer the energy forward.

One from the recent road trip to Austria and Germany.

You can see below that the 17" rims on the Octavia MK2 have a specification of 7Jx17 ET54 (this doesn't include the Scout models which have a specification of 7Jx17 ET50), and the 18" rims on the Octavia MK2 have a specification of 7.5Jx18 ET51. The Octavia MK2 RS only has 312mm diameter front brake discs, so 16" rims are another option that will fit. The standard 16" rim size on the Octavia MK2 is 6.5Jx16 ET50 but consider these super light (about 7.3kg each) forged alloy rims from Audi A4/A6 cars around the year 2000. 7JX16 ET45 5/112 57.1 alloy rims 8D0601025K (from Audi A4/A6) 9 8D0 601 025 K aluminium rim 7 JX16H2 ET45 5/112 4 PR-C8Y 8D0601025K Z17 avus silver 2001.99 - 2009.01 https://audi.7zap.com/en/rdw/audi+a4+avant/a4/2000-223/6/601-601060/#9 Octavia MK2 7Jx17 ET54 5/112 57.1 alloy rims 5 1Z0 601 025 L aluminium rim 7JX17 ET54 4 ZENITH (RS) 1Z0601025L 7ZS chrome coloured metallic 2011.08 - 2006.13 https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/octavia/oct/2012-663/6/601-601070/ Octavia MK2 7.5Jx18 ET51 5/112 57.1 alloy rims 1 1Z0 601 025 M aluminium rim 7,5JX18 ET51 4 ZENITH (RS) 1Z0601025M 7ZS chrome coloured metallic 2011.08 - 2005.09 https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/octavia/oct/2012-663/6/601-601080/

Hii

More of ‘Big dog’ as the kids have named it!!

Mine in the country side 😀

quite possibly the hardest mechanical task I have ever undertaken but all that is left is putting it back together oil cooler in place

After 15 months of waiting... Finally arrived Superb Sportline 206kw. Dad's family car

It might be down to the combined sensor that is behind the rear view mirror. Mine failed after 5yrs, but that was not sensing light. 2014 vrs. 5Q0955547B

My Greenline still runs rough during regen, however before the EGR delete it would trigger codes and limp mode even at 2k rpm. If you can't afford VCDS then get Carista, together with VAGDPF you'll get a good idea of what's going on AND Carista can activate a regen on command.

Out in Spain currently but look forward to getting back and putting many miles on this over the summer. All 4 corners of the country to visit!!!

Kilen 25117 and Lesjofors 4095131 are sold to replace both 5Q0411105CG (which is a VW Passat standard ride height front spring and very similar to 5Q0411105GM) and 5Q0411105GM. Kilen 25123 and Lesjofors 4095137 are sold to replace 5Q0411105GN. 2016 VW Passat standard ride height 5Q0411105CG 1 5Q0 411 105 CG coil spring 1 paint mark 1 paint mark 1 paint mark yellow violet brown 2 PR-G01+L33 Superb MK3 2.0TDI 150HP standard ride height 5Q0411105GM (1) 5Q0 411 105 GM coil spring 1 paint mark 1 paint mark blue grey 2 PR-G01+L07 Superb MK3 2.0TDI 150HP standard ride height 5Q0411105GN 1 5Q0 411 105 CG coil spring 1 paint mark 1 paint mark green white 2 PR-G01+L08 I suggest you fit Kilen 25123 or Lesjofors 4095137 front springs that match 5Q0411105GN, and Kilen 65126 or Lesjorfors 4295136 rear springs that match 3Q0511115M. This should give you a firm, sporty ride to match your 19" wheels, yet still have a better ride than the increased ride height springs. If you compare the weight of the standard ride height springs and the increased ride height springs, you might be surprised just how much heavier the increased ride height springs are. This is due to the bigger wire diameter on the increased ride height springs. Kilen 25123 or Lesjorfors 4295136 front springs to match 5Q0411105GN https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/393381818281?epid=251877720&hash=item5b97622fa9:g:kioAAOSwBYRiMcnq Kilen 65126 or Lesjofors 4295136 rear springs to match 3Q0511115M https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/353522211089?epid=251908476&hash=item524f90d911:g:uQgAAOSw~IFiMdIr Kilen and Lesjofors are the same springs made in the same factory in Sweden. They are just sold under different brand names to increase their market share. As you are changing your front springs from increased ride height to standard ride height, you will need to also change the front rubber buffers that are fitted to the front shock absorbers. Currently you will have 90mm rubber buffers fitted which are for the increased ride height. You need to change to the 70mm rubber buffers to match the standard ride height. These have OEM part number 1K0412303B. 3 1K0 412 303 B rubber stop for shock absorber 70 2 PR-G01 (3) 1K0 412 303 F rubber stop for shock absorber 55 2 PR-G02 (3) 1K0 412 303 AA rubber stop for shock absorber 90 2 PR-G03 70mm standard ride height rubber buffer for front shock absorbers 1K0412303B

picked up the gearbox today with the LSD fitted and rebuilt , would like to thank LANCS TRANSMISSION for the professional friendly and well priced service , there’s some things that are beyond my capabilities and without all the professional tools it worked out better to get it done by someone I trusted … I would like to add that these guys said they do at least one dq200 rebuild a week and told me there price structure and it is really fairly priced I would recommend them if your even in a pickle

2.5kg of metal goodness 🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥

Turns out a Vw caddy van can hold a lot in the back 😂🤣

Doesn't matter who little u feather the brakes, the start-stop cuts the engine before ur stopped. It's very annoying.