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Modern VAG temperature gauges are very misleading, they will show 90 when the actual value is 77 and still show 90 at a real 116 but then when the real value hits 117 the gauges shoots up to a ridiculous value. The effect of this is in 99.95 of cases people do not fret and obsess about the minuti of the gauge readings as they used to with observations like "it just reads over 90 and then just under" so it just sits there reading 90 and no one notices or cares which is what VAG want. BUT if you do get an issue such as the electronically controlled cam belt driven water pump failing, the real temp goes up and up to 100 or more but until it becomes a major issue, you don't know. Then when it hits 117 (and I have logged this), the gauge goes goes FSD and the dash goes crazy scaring the **** out of you; personally I would prefer an accurate gauge, forewarned is forearmed.

It’ll disappear even quicker if you put a price tag on it…

The alignment was done recently and was quite a way out before so the wear is likely from that. Will think about what to replace them with. That was fun! The screen was still leaking slightly at one corner so the Novus guy and I decided it was best to pull it out, clean up and re-seal. There was a little bit of surface rust under there which I cleaned up as best I could with a wire brush, rust converter and some black paint.

@MartiniB - VW links seem to be up: https://vw-maps-cdn.lighthouselabs.eu/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU-AS_2010_V17.7z https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU-AS_2010_V17.7z Seems to be the same pattern for different regions as the previous release 👍

Only took 474 days (since July 2021) Black RS, panorama roof, Canton, RS Plus pack (DCC, front assist). Wheels swapped and since photo just got new black personalised plate fitted instead of the standard white plate. New front badges on their way to replace the chrome also...

After seeing so many people doing it the wrong way, I decided to make my own video

Sounds good to me.

Main dealers currently charge this for timing belt and water pump replacement on the 1.6 and 2.0 TDI engines - prices vary but this is Skoda's 'fixed' price. Cambelt Replacement £571.44 Cambelt Replacement with Water Pump £874.97 I charge £400 for a timing belt replacement with new coolant and a water pump.

Just updated my 32GB card with the AS version I linked, all happy! @MartiniB - I made a guide a while back to help people create SD cards, you're more than welcome to link it at the end as it maybe useful to some:

Looking at https://www.skoda.co.uk/owners/servicing-maintenance-fixed-price it states the following in the small print: So yes, they should include VAT and I'd expect a "Oil and inspection service" to cost £185 inc VAT.

2012 Skoda Superb so I guess this is Columbus RNS510. Pls remove the unit and post a picture of upper cover label so I can let you know how to proceed further.

Leave it at the end of the drive, someone will have it away for scrap metal.

May be it comes from bad memories in earlier EV ownership. (I think he has/had a Leaf?) In Leaf, if I'm not nearly home when hit 20%, I'd be driving up to rapid chargers. I think sat-nav's "predicted arrival percentage" is very important in road-tripping EV, when driving on unfamiliar roads. In my limited, all <60 miles experience, I can completely trust the Tesla's estimated arrival range. Usually I arrive consuming 5-10% less than its prediction, has never gotten below its estimated arrival percentage so far. The live update on the sat-nav screen also means I can use it to aim for a very low arrival SoC, confident I can get there.

If it happens again it may well be worth parking up somewhere safe & rather than checking anything just sit there with the engine running, if the coolant temp drops almost as fast as it rose it's a fair indication that it is the water pump. I had it happen on my last octy something like 10 times, every single time the temp rose from 90 to 120/130 fast & then dropped back to 90 almost as fast.

It's at the top of the Octavia 3 forum opening page here

I agree about the floating thing, it's not all about water in the cylinder or wet electrics. Half a century ago when I was using rough old Land Rovers to get to Odessa via various countries we took all the floor rubber bungs out to let the water in and out quickly.

Or neither; as per @daftbugga I'd suspect the water pump issue and add that you'll also find threads about it on the Superb 2 and 3, Kodiaq, and possibly Kamiq and Koroq fora.

As promised, here is a series of pics to illustrate the result of my 2-day detailing job these last days... After a quick clean to get rid of suicidal mosquitoes during a 800km drive... Overview of water-repellent effect of sealant Little mop yesterday This morning at work And the nicest (at least to me) this evening, on a sport shop car park Night pics are quite rare on this thread...

From what you have said it would seem that you might have the dreaded water pump problem. suggest you read the sticky thread at the top of the page, it's a long read.

Will there be a National Meet in 2023??

Good evening all (UK time)! I’ve been browsing the forum for a while pending delivery of my new Karoq, and now it’s arrived I thought I would take the plunge! So “Hi!” Craig.

Ha, will do when the sun makes the colour pop! Made some Carista changes already, so may do a post on what did and didn’t work with that too.

@ColinD I'm not sure if you're following this topic.

You were quite lucky, as iV models were withdrawn on 23rd October. It appears that lead time of those ordered a year ago, is nearer 18 months, but they might catch up a bit and so end of 2023 sounds fair. However by then other Octavia might be a facelift version.

These two links show more information on your fault codes and further links to people who had the same problem. https://www.ross-tech.com/Search-Results.html?q=p0087 Possible fuel supply problem. https://www.ross-tech.com/Search-Results.html?q=p0121 Possible throttle position sensor fault. With the ignition on and the engine not running, it is normal to have the battery light on as it indicates the alternator is not charging the battery. It should go off as soon as the engine starts. The red steering wheel icon may be an indication that battery has low charge - too low a voltage to run the power steering. When did you last change the battery? It may be its capacity is getting low. Give it a charge before trying again.

Just watched that while having lunch. It seems a great package.

Hi, Its dealer only part and i got it from tps it costed 84.84 pounds and tps only sell it to traders but i got it as i got taxi badge. There is other option you can buy second hand from breakers but i personally wont go that way i have heard even a mount is slightly weak it wont fix the noise issue.

Maybe if you supply your VIN to @pab567 he can tell you what is fitted, and maybe send you a solution/suggest a swap part (he can supply radio parts if needed)

Yeah I realised the dealers couldnt be relied on when I got the 52/40 weeks estimates in the space of a week. My current company car is up in March so it will be the first time Ive had to get a company car MOT'd! After watching this thread for a while I know it could be anytime, I might get lucky and it lands in 12 months but probably not. The next model might be out by the time I get mine 😀

Don't shoot the messenger. Best put your point to my Skoda dealer because that's what they called it. Can you explain how the drains got blocked and what's the solution VW Group have put in place to overcome the problem? If we're going to be pedantic then it was described to me that the older plug / filter / valve / strainer / bleed / outlet / trap whatever on the end of the tube that caused the drains to clog, the newer design doesn't.

There are a number of questions as to what is actually covered by the extended warranty. I take it, like me, you took out the 'All In' deal. I had a very long conversation with the Skoda Chat Line about it before I signed up and they didn't really know what was covered. Infact the 1st guy I spoke to said he would have to speak to his supervisor and get back to me. He never did!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I went on again and spoke to another guy who seemed to be more clued up but did say that it would be down to the dealership to make that decision. Best advice I can give is to be very polite but very firm. As a retired Electro/mechanical engineer I wasn't about to take any BS and I made that clear, which seemed to work. I told the service manager that I was expecting the water ingress to be covered by the 'All In' policy to wwhich he replied that he wasn't sure if it was covered. I advised that as this issue occurred during the standard warranty period it was a known issue and I would be insisting if it happened again. Your leak obviously occurred during your standard warranty period but it took a few weeks for you to realise the problem. Be strong and do not accept any costs. You could always offer to advise those other customers, who are sitting with salesmen and about to sign on the dotted line, about the poor quality of manufacture and service. I did that once with a faulty week old washing machine - my problem was dealt with straight away.

Make sure you tell them that it is a known fault and has been documented on the Internet and Briskoda, It could be that it is your sunroof drain which is blocked on the passenger side but there have been more examples of the fault being a bad windscreen seal. Mine had to be replaced twice before it was cured but I still lack confidence as it seems main dealers are ill equiped to deal with these issues. Make sure that they get the equipment that can measure leaks electronically. My dealer had to borrow it from an Audi dealership in their group. I have learned since that this is a problem associated with numerous cars in the VAG group. (hence the equipment being available). Be prepared to lose your car for a few weeks if they cannot find the fault immediately. Also, on its return make sure to give your car a thorough inspection as there will likely be some damage. I had paint scraped off the drivers door shut , scratches on the centre console and 'B' pillar trim, dirty marks on the windscreen pillar trim and broken seat belt height adjusters. All these caused by inept dealership "technicians". They had to replace my headligning completely as it was damaged taking it out and the rest was so obviously caused by the tech removing and/or replacing the seats. I also had an impression in the leather of the steering wheel but I was able to coax it out by gentle rubbing with a leather conditioner. Be really thorough as I had a couple of scratches on trim which I did not notice until I was cleaning the interior a week later, but I was so mad that I insisted they replace the parts. They had little choice because they really did make a 'pigs ear' of the job. I didn't feel the same way about my car for a good year after this but you do eventually realise there are more important things in life. Good luck!!

Love the sneaky security. Ha ha thanks for that. much obliged for the info cheers from oz

Thanks from all the responses. As a follow on question, has anyone had experience with adding spring seats from other models? I saw in this thread: The Audi TT spring seats for the rear offer and extra 6.5mm of ride height (OE part number: 8J0512149). Does anyone know if similar spring seats exist for the front? I'm constantly loading the rear so this appeals to me but clawing back a couple of mm up front would also be nice having seen some of the settles ride heights with Eibach.

Your car is 2019? Depends when it was manufactured, ours was latter half of 2019, but there was a recall notice when it went for it's service last year. The recall was to do with the sunroof - to check the drain plugs. My car already had the updated plugs fitted so wasn't an issue. If your car has been serviced by a main dealer within the past year then assuming they've done their job correctly, the sunroof drain plugs shouldn't be the cause.

I've never had any fitted to any Skoda's I've owned since 2004. They're a pain in the nuts tbh.

Unless you live in a third world country you won't need a fuel filter on a petrol engined car like yours.

Might be an idea to check/change the cabin filter too.

Shouldn't it have a push-button LW wireless? 😇 Gaz

Given your level of knowledge and lack of specialist tools I would simply pay a fastfit centre to change the oil and filter and probably the sparkplugs. You can change the air filter yourself but there really isn't much else that needs regular attention.

Rob's not attacking the corners hard enough 😁 Drive harder and chew up the outer edges to match the inners 👍 (Or mebbe check the toe-out too) G

Also don't be tempted by a cheap pollen filter, OEM or charcoal activated are best.

As per others in this thread, a/c cleaner and a fresh pollen filter, then actually use the a/c.

Watch this I’ve personally used the ac bomb, but next time I’ll follow this video Also get a new pollen filter, the Mann one which has the charcoal etc What he does is done on an octavia but I’m sure that pipe is present on the superb too

Was the pollen filter changed at 2 years and the area cleaned/washed/ disinfected, then the same again now or are you waiting until 4 years since the car was first registered? 2 years is just a recommendation or guideline on when they should be replaced, they can be checked any place, checked for being dry and clean.

Another update from last year, added a boot lip spoiler.

You can get genuine Fabia mud flaps on E Bay a good bit cheaper than a Skoda Dealer.👍

You have a 6 month warranty for a used car bought from a dealer. https://www.citizensadvice.org.uk/consumer/buying-or-repairing-a-car/problems-with-a-used-car/ It is nothing to do with the AA warranty he has supplied. Just speak to the supplying dealer clearly without loosing your rag & explain you want the car fixed at his expense.