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So..... I picked this up yesterday 🙂

Thanks for the info, I'll probably stick it in at the dealers to have a look at it within Jan (earliest they can do), as I have an in-house none Skoda warranty, which I could use at the Skoda garage, as they're within the same group. I think it's more engine related than the dsg box, my guess not enough fuel to the engine when it's cold. As the engine it's self seems very fuel efficient. Car runs fine once warm. Thanks for your reply, I had my plugs changed at the Skoda main dealer, didn't get a price, as they were finishing a major service off which was promised to me by another none Skoda main dealer, prior to me receiving the car. I didn't buy the car locally you see, once I took delivery of my car, I checked the service receipt & the supplying dealer had missed out the plugs. So agreed to have them changed at the Skoda main dealer. The plugs & service were carried out at around 20k, cars now covered 24k. prior to this it had a fssh. It was on a 2 yearly service schedule, I dropped it to a year. As I wanted to change the oil yearly for what it costs. The guy at the service desk didn't deny that the 1.5t was prone to cold running issues, just that this engine wasn't within the previous recall list for this issue. I have an in-house warranty, which may or may not cover this issue if they could find one. I'll have a think about their fixed price servicing deal within the future, but at this point I don't really want to commit to another two years worth of servicing, depending how long I keep the car. As it's my first Skoda.

In extreme conditions, letting some air out of the tyres can help gain traction - but care needs to be taken that pressures aren't allowed to go too low, then you need to be able to restore correct pressures afterwards.

Dear All, I have used this forum over many years as a way of sorting out any problems I have had with my Superb Mk2. So a big thank you to all for the help. This post is an effort to help others that may come across a problem I have had. It is the well known failure of the wiring in the bellows between the A-pillar and the front door. In my case it was on the passenger side and left me with no way of opening the passenger door. To overcome this, you need to remove the inner front wheel arch and a couple of baffles. This allows you to get at the bellows. In my case I gently pressed the bellows while pressing the unlock switch on the key fob at which point the door unlocked. This saved me loads of grief and allowed me to solder new wires to sort the problem out. I hope this may help others. I'd like to claim ownership of this idea but someone had posted a video of same on Youtube. Harry

Hello and welcome Shauna What make of tyre does the car currently have? What are the tread depths and how many miles has the car done? It's all a bit subjective in terms of the hill, temperature and other factors, but yes, if you've summer tyres fitted, that will be a factor. Winter, or all season tyres on now, will probably help. I've been a nay-sayer on all season tyres, as I live right on the south coast, but I have Michelin Cross Climate 2's on my car (also a DSG), and in the current cold temperatures, I'm glad I do. Gaz

Such a cool car. Used for several Targa rallies. Rough paint but original. Holes in the carpet where the roll cage has recently been cut out. also has Murray Walker and Peter Brock’s signatures on the paint !

Attached is the indicator chip datasheet. I think it has current sensing of its outputs which is how it knows if something's changed. If you really want everything to work nicely with your LEDs you probably should measure each channel's output current with the correct bulbs in, then add parallel resistors between each output and earth to get the same currents with your LEDs in place. The outputs from the onboard supply control unit going to right and left indicators are from connector XS6 pin 14 and pin 16 respectively. Each feeds its front, side and rear indicator bulb. Indicator chip BTS540L.pdf

Good review for CC's as they wear too 👍: I think when it comes to turning the traction control off, the caveat should be to only do it for as long as is necessary. It's there for a reason. Gaz

I'd agree with @tootit's outside of what an MOT would cover if you've got valve caps on, but it's not right, get it sorted. Personally, I'm of the stand point that I'll drive some of the most borderline illegal **** on the road, but there's two things I'll never cut corners on - brakes and tyres. If they were on my 06 Berlingo and I'd got £50 to last me til Friday, I'd spend £40 getting new valves put on. A 2019 vrs deserves better.

Turned out the new blower motor was faulty. The terminals were too deep and the connector was not making contact with them. Fitted a new one and now have a warm car again.

Yep first thing I checked myself when I took delivery of my car, now that was an easy check. Oil looked clean, too. Only when I checked the receipt I noticed no plugs, rang them up, service manager agreed to have them changed at another Skoda garage within the same group, as this is what we'd agreed on prior to purchase & a years warranty. I think I'll try a tank full of Shell e10 first, as it should have more additives than the usual supermarket e10 stuff I normally use, if no better, then I'll try a tank of e5. Maybe the easier cheapest option first.

Similar have been posted before but I hope this title helps people to find it. Washers packed up after a heavy frost. Checked Fuse46 which seemed like the right one, labelled 'Front and rear window washer'. It was ok. Checked voltage at the pump by pressing switch. Voltage was about 10volts but dropping to about 4. Assumed if voltage there ( I'm no electrician) then pump must be u/s. Not so. Replacement of pump made no difference. Read forum and directed to Fuse22, labelled 'Front and rear windscreen wiper system' . Fuse was blown. System worked ok again after replacing Fuse22. So check this first. Hope this helps someone.

You have a DQ200 7 speed twin dry clutch DSG, no clutch fluid change for that. There can be a software update for DQ200's with the issues, & the 1.5 TSI's as well as the engine software update. Even though dealerships might say there is not.

PS. If E5 97/99 is only going to cost you less than £3 extra for Tesco Momentum 99 or Sainsburry Super Unleaded 97 then why not try a tank or 2. 97 or 99 ron is the Minimum, it might be higher than minimum

+1 👍 Get 'em changed IMO. I wouldn't want them on my car, for cosmetic, or functional reasons. Where has the metal gone - if you've inflated the tyres since, have you blown metal swarf into the tyre? Very unlikely I expect in reality, but what if? Metal caps are known to get stuck in the circumstances you've experienced. Best avoided - as you now know. Gaz

SORN'ed as of end November, tucked away in the garage now the roofing work is completed. Needs a good looking over next year, neglected sadly due to little use due to 'you know what' the past 2 yrs.

Fuse 15 worth checking, if I remember correctly.

I did my Electric Angel thing this lunch time and i will get helped sometime probably / hopefully as i have been by others in the past. I was charging free at Tesco while doing nothing and someone came in passed with a Mini Electric and was at a loss as no PodPoint app. So he was a Delivery driver who was up to Aberdeen to get a Tesla to take to London, with trade plates, he was asked to take the MINI instead. So he arrived in Forfar with 12% & i offered to take him a mile to the charging hub back towards the main road. The chargers were all occupied but a Polestar 2 driver who was going to Stirling let him on the charger. His Debit or Credit car would not start the charger, he had no CPS card or App so i paid for his charge by starting with my card. I showed him the route & gave the postcodes to Perth and to Stirling Park and Ride's without going to Dundee and where if needs must he can charge in Perth, Auchterarder or Dunblane but he should get to Stirling Park & Ride or near to and use his Debit / Credit. He put into WAZE. So the charger went off at 80% and the 3 others went off and he had got only 80% but it showed on the car he had 90 miles. He has 70 miles to go to Stirling. What a PITA in a MINI Electric but hopefully he is OK to there then to Gretna Green then onwards and any Gridserve charging. He was not concerned about cost of charging as not him paying & just getting a move on and down south. This was his first hassle of delivery driving because he drives Tesla's and uses SuperChargers. EDIT. Must have charged to more than 80% which is good. That will be 100% battery if 28.9 usable capacity and it was at 10% when charging started. Thankfully for him he is escaping the coldest weather and hopefully any snow. EDIT. 26.522kWh / £6.11 for that charge.

@ApertureS You have message above 🆙

I am new - thanks for advice

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Mini, not E-Type.

Hi The thermostat you list opens at 80 degrees C. For the 2009 to 2017 Yeti the OE part number is 1K0121113A , which opens at 75 degrees C. I suspect 5 degrees isn't going to make much difference, but you might as well get the correct one. The Febi Bilstein 172376 one example of a part that meets this OE spec. There are many equivalents from other makers, mostly around the £20 mark in the UK. The same part is used in many VAG cars.

An update on my order for an Octavia vRS TSi 245 Manual Estate in Race Blue with Pano roof, towbar prep and spare wheel. Car was ordered on 30th March 22, built in week 48 and is currently en route to the German docks. Dealer expects it early January which is 3 months ahead of schedule.

Well, finally some progress here. Dealer mailed that car is finally in production, expected in January. That's one week later compared to information I got from Skoda directly. I wonder though if January delivery is overly optimistic and instead it will stay on a parking lot waiting for components. With electric seats and Park Assist 3.0 it was pretty mean combination. On the other hand we're 12 month after initial delivery date and 16 month after the order date. I'll find out soon..

Latest Updated Speedcams - December, 2022. It's been a long while but at last here's the latest update of my customised version of EUR Speedcams ( December, 2022). They consist of the full EUROPE speed cameras which I've split up into four consolidated poi categories i.e. Fixed Speedcams, Average Speedcams, Variable Speedcams and Redlight Speedcams. They come supplied with my own preferred personal choice of icons, shown below, to match each of the speedcam categories. Remember to Install them as I explained in the first post in this thread i.e. after extracting the zip file remember to open the newly extracted folder and place only the PersonalPOI folder and metainfo2.txt file onto your sd card ( Please Note: a usb stick will not work! ). Also, please remember to select/tick the relevant newly added poi categories and the poi audible warning alert in your infotainment map menu settings after performing the update or they will not display on your map or audibly alert you. Hope you all enjoy them! EUR Speedcams December, 2022.zip *** A brief update*** For all those who have asked - I am still continuing to update these files but since the Covid situation I have found it difficult to get hold of a good FREE reliable updated database. I continually regularly check the forums and when I come across a suitable database I use some software to check the cameras in my area before I decide whether to convert and compile them as it does take a bit of time and effort to accomplish this. For instance, some average speedcams were installed about 3 years ago in my area but no database has yet reflected this change. It's therefore been pointless doing any updates. Thankfully, this new updated database has finally recognised them so perhaps things are starting to get back to normal. Rest assured though these files will be updated as and when I come across any further suitable databases.

Ah, thank you, Ryan

Just after the item number... so 'itm/[number]?' - as in, you can trim the eBay link down till that point. E.g., the example below... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255870411831?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D777008%26algo%3DPERSONAL.TOPIC%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20220705100511%26meid%3Dec32f861a00040898e20e8a0b50cfcb2%26pid%3D101524%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26itm%3D255870411831%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2380057%26algv%3DRecentlyViewedItemsV2&_trksid=p2380057.c101524.m146925&_trkparms=pageci%3Ae2a6f21a-7bfc-11ed-b24f-d6cdab2bcbb4|parentrq%3A12b56e111850a77d93a6ec30fff893a8|iid%3A1 Or https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255870411831 - that's all you'd need.

Is it in eco mode ? I have found they are happier in normal or sport and it doesn’t seem to make much difference to mpg.

Another couple from today, slightly warmer at -7C

Has the Air Filter been replaced or even looked at? Check it is dry and clean, just so that you know it is.

Try turning off traction control

I would change them. The cut off point for me is the risk against the cost. To get a tyre service to replace the valves is minimal cost. if you got them to balance the wheels they would probably throw in the valve swap for nothing. I had a leaking valve changed and my tyre service only charged me for the wheel balance.

Thank you. No but I will tomorrow when the outside temperature rises above 0C. Oh and it is plated for towing.

MOT Examiner would never know then. They do not take off valve caps. They do not even check behind under body protection / sump guards.

Obviously I took the valve cap off to photograph it. I don't drive around without valve caps on.

I've lost track of the amount of old kit i've sent for 'recycling' over the years. Stuff that's still working, but too slow/outdated/unsupported for modern use.

The usual £126 to look at the car is something that the service desk staff might quote. Ask them about Skoda Fixed Price Servicing and Maintenance and participating dealers and the first 30 minutes of a diagnostic being £60. If they know of no such thing ask them to go check with others, maybe on that computer they are trained to use. Then at a service they are supposed to be doing a road test, plugging the car in and doing 'Software or hardware enhancements'. If the Registration / VIN was checked and really your car is not part of the Software Update / Workshop Action / Recall Action / Service Campaign that does not mean it does not require one. ? How much did you pay them to change the spark plugs, and at how many miles was that. http://skoda-auto.com/services/recall-actions http://gov.uk/check-vehicle-recall

Might be an idea to locate someone local with VCDS for a scan of the car, it will be cheaper than visting there. Other would be to login to erWin Skoda for an hour (about £7.49) and download all your repair/wiring diagrams, your build codes, and most importantly to look over the online workshop information. If you can view the online system yourself, you can look through what is historically called the "Red Book" and there is a massive list of TPI documents where they may list gearbox/engine known issues. Tip: If you do, make sure you have available a PDF printer, so you can print/save the information to PDF files for when your hour expires. Ask if you have more questions.

Get the flexi section in exhaust checked for cracks Or a loose clamp Its basically positioned right underneath the front windscreen scuttle so any exhaust fumes escaping come right into the air intake of vehicle

Very true…..’ish 😂

I used 6% of 75-80 kWh battery to drive 6 miles this morning. No charging no preconditioning, car sat unused since Sunday due to snow. That's almost 5 kWh for just 6 miles...... if only driving 1 mile journeys it would probably be worse than 1 kWh for 1 mile.

I have the same, cold here just below freezing, so not bad, but twice in the last week its done that, I had the steering heating on but not changing it so mine is not connected to that. Seems to only happen first thing in the morning for me and when its cold, but not always!! Sadly I ignore it now as it resets when I turn the car off and on again.

Welcome. Are they waiving the diagnostic charge if they do the work. The first 30 minutes of a diagnostic at a participating dealership is £60. They only take 30 minutes. They already made a guess at a price to fix. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/506325-kodiaq-overheating-at-random/page/2 http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/506325-kodiaq-overheating-at-random

Correct. In my mk2 fabia, all 4 turn signals are flashing cool, like om the newest fabia mk4. But the control unit is ticking 2x faster and the signal in the dasboard. It has been like that since 2014, nothing died, passing MOT always, no problmes having the ticking bomb im the car😂

A couple from this afternoon. -13C

Thanks for your kind thoughts. We play the cards we are given. There are many far worse off than I. I hope everyone waiting for their order gets it soon. I can however say with some certainty. I won’t be buying another Skoda.

The time they said it should be changed is correct if you’re anywhere but UK, but we clearly have different parts fitted to the ROW (yeah right…)

Wow that’s a very very good price for Skoda directly. Normally they quote £700+ I charge £410 with the electronic water pump and new coolant so yeah I’d say what you’ve paid is a good price!

Too clever for its own good - not quite the '... in perfect harmony' prior generations might've aspired to! Gaz

If only the boot was big enough to need one 😀 Key for scale..... No sign of a Cat either 🙂