Leaderboard

Mine will be 10 years old in May and I've no plans to replace it in the foreseeable future. By coincidence the motoring columnist in The Oldie was discussing changing cars and came to the conclusion that in most cases repairing the car you have will be cheaper than the cost of change. And as pretty much all "modern" cars have all the gadgets most people could reasonably want or use (and I can't be alone in having extras that I never use) all the time a car meets your needs is there is any real benefit in changing?

Cant believe mine will be 8 years old this October ! Still zero interest of swapping it for anything else.

Well, I have tested a lot of alternatives but after each test drive I was happy to get back into my Yeti. Long and short is I have decided to keep the Yeti for a long time yet. It is a late 2017 model with all the extras including heated windscreen, electric memory seats, leather interior (great for my wife to ‘slide’ into the seat), rear view camera etc. Okay it doesn’t have the new electronic aids like Lane Keeping Assistance etc. but I keep reading conflicting reports about their value and disadvantages as well as advantages. Dealer maintained since new, 44,000 miles only and returns 44.6 MPG true average over the 44,000 miles. , drives beautifully. Long internal debate but only reason for wanting to change is that it is 6 years old, honestly not a good reason and as I can’t find a ‘better” replacement I will keep the Yeti.

A few from Calke Abbey this afternoon - managed to dodge the rain

These listings on autodoc (and elsewhere) are full of mistakes. For example, Bilstein B6 35-229872 front shock absorbers are listed on autodoc as being compatible with OEM part numbers 5Q0413023CP, 5Q0413023DA, 5Q0413023EB, 5Q0413023GG, 8V0413023C, 8V0413023E. But Bilstein B6 35-229872 front shock absorbers have a 55mm strut diameter, and 5Q0413023CP, 5Q0413023DA, 5Q0413023EB, 5Q0413023GG, 8V0413023C, 8V0413023E front shock absorbers actually have a 50mm strut diameter. So that's at least six mistakes in just one listing.

My car is going to the dealer next week to have the software update applied and probably a new 12 volt battery fitted

I have a 2014 superb L&K estate, and all three mirrors dim.

Engine code is first 3 or 4 letters of your engine number, it is listed on line P5 of your V5 document.

Best post up your engine code to confirm if yours is indeed a lifetime belt. VAG will be covering themselves by changing their tune to 5yrs, that being said I wouldn't personally trust a 'lifetime' belt as the term itself is ambiguous. If your battery works, and you are not getting any symptoms, you can carry on I would say. For peace of mind you can take it to be tested and get a basic health report done.

Much dampness this winter with freezing days / nights and then thaws and warm weather. The damp traps are well worth the cost even though now £4 for 4 in ASDA. Singles are £1.25. I think i am stocked for the rest of the winter as the first ones put in cars this winter and not ready for a environmentally friendly disposal.

@J.R.During the night on the World Service Radio i was listening to an article on the Romans and 'Self-healing' concrete. Obviously a strange use of the term from the scientists. But that is what it is. Maybe not to be used to protect a cars paint work other than for building a garage. http://science.org/content/article/scientists-may-have-found-magic-ingredient-behind-ancient-romes-self-healing-concrete

I spoke to a guy in my garage who used to be a Skoda tech. He knew the front crash sensors were NOT behind the bumper but between the radiators and the grille. Access via the plastic bits on the top. Once the few bolts and plastic fasteners were removed he used a little brute force and looked through the gap. Found the sensors and found the wire leading from the sensor had been bitten through in two places. He cut the broken wire out and soldered a new length in. Reconnected the battery, plugged in his diagnostic gadget and cleared the codes and the error message never came back. Once reassembled I took the car for a short test drive to clear the myriad of other errors arising from the disconnected battery. Everything is now working perfectly. A 45 minute exercise. I gave the guy a reasonable tip for his efforts.

These panels can be replaced, IIRC. Cannot remember how the hell you remove them, though.

Lane Assist is only active at speeds > 40mph, according to the manual (same speed that activates the high-beam on the matrix lights too, fwiw). Travel Assist is only available with the ACC set - so that's a minimum 20mph... although the lane keeping element does stay active all the way down to stopped as traffic jam assist is all part of the same system (edit: that's with the ACC stopping/starting with the traffic, of course - you just can't set the ACC speed to anything less than 20mph).

Thanks for your quick answer!

0138 is the last version in the 01xx number range. So no update.

No, that's not what i mean. I meant, that there was no OTA with major update so far, at least i haven't heard of it. If you want to update from 1896 to 1898 you need to visit dealership. In theory it's possible to have OTA, but for some reason they are not releasing it. There are rumors, that soon they will start the OTA process, but those are just rumors.

Change it, and all the components. lifetime belt or not, it doesn't have a lifetime water pump or a lifetime spring in the tensioner or lifetime bearings.

On your vehicle document, V5 there will be engine number. BMN12345 CAVE12345 for example

Autocar publish some guff. (now they bring up the figure of around 90% charging at home.) http://autocar.co.uk/car-news/advice-electric-cars/charging-electric-car-apartment-or-flat I wonder if they talked to Grant Shapps or Michael Gove about levelling up and just run an electric cable across the pavement. Be sure to not leave it longer than required if charging your hybrid for hours or your EV from a domestic socket.

I bet you're glad you asked for three pages of cut and paste madness instead of asking a simple question!

I’ve got 235/35/19s on all corners on my 19” Xtrems

Thanks Falco, was all set to head to the garage.

Good luck with the next part...

Ok thanks. It’s currently dead on the side of the road. I’ve emailed the dealer and will call them first thing on Monday morning getting them to organise towing to their workshop.

I was just looking at the instructions for removal, battery out, along with tray (so a point of failure there for your charging) Then the starter motor is also removed, and the wiring to that is will have a good Earth. In short, this is most likely to have been caused by them, your battery would have been giving you signs before it's "failure"

I agree with the suggestion that the problem could be Haldex related. Recommend that you remove the pump and filters and do a fluid change while you are at it. You can test the condition of the pump with a multi meter. Skoda seem to take the view that the Haldex unit is sealed for life and do not incorporate fluid and filter replacement into the maintenance schedule. The fluid degrades over time and the filters become blocked. There are a couple of UK based suppliers, which specialise in Haldex repair and or the supply of Haldex parts / maintenance kits. Let me know if you don’t have a similar supplier in Serbia and I shall supply the links.

@DonweatherYou didn't specify what engine/gearbox, but I would assume there will be an Earth strap. It sounds like one of those has come loose, and some tech will be getting a talking to. Having most likely removed for the repairs.

Members helped with this. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/426080-evo-magazine-buying-guide http://evo.co.uk/skoda/fabia-vrs ................. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/453390-buying-a-mk2-fabia-vrs http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/472431-fabia-vrs-mk2-cave-issues-and-tabs This was one of the last vRS registered in the UK. The Service Campaign was missed. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/432730-oil-leak http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/483018-gearbox-issue http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/503146-mechatronic-leaking These are linked in other threads, might as well go here as well. Not always factually correct info... Ex member.

About August 2012 are the first UK registered ones. MY13 after the factory summer break. They still never got the first ones right and needed a software update, even some needed the Breather Mod and then Oil Spray Jet updates. 2013 another Software update. (I ordered a New Seat Ibiza Cupra with the new engine, new engine management, they were delayed being sold / imported until the balls-up was sorted out.) They dropped a VED band to the same as the POLO GTI had been. Later the Kerb Weight had to be corrected by VW / SEAT, because as usual they lied. Heavier cars, wider tyres, shows as more efficient and faster even though not. http://autocar.co.uk/car-review/seat/ibiza-cupra-2009-2017/first-drives/seat-ibiza-cupra-first-drive http://autocar.co.uk/car-review/seat/ibiza-cupra-2009-2017 So the 2012-2013 early CTHE never got the Service Campaign '34F7' carried out on the DSG, or the then 2013-2015 '34H5' software update. See the last pages of the pinned thread up top. That was another balls-up. About 1,800 CAVE, then 1,000 CTHE. Around 800 are estates in the UK.

Did I read this correctly, problems sourcing one replacement wheel (are they out of stock?) Instead opted to get 4 Octavia alloys, but then needed spacers, different bolts to fit the spacers, and different size tyres to fit the rims. Just intrigued at relative cost of this change.

I've had 235s on mine for over 3 years. The Xtreme rim is 8.0J.

Having owned a PPD170 for years I can say it’s been mighty. Every car has its issues. If you get a PPD170 made in very late 2007/2008 should not have any issues. I have the 2008 model. What to look for: - Revised C coded cylinder head. No problems pourous heads so make sure it’s got a C at the end of the head code. A and B heads were used in 2006/07 PD140s and PD170s and were known for going bad requiring head jobs. - DPF/EGR To be honest I’d say there’s more PD engined cars without these devices still in place than there is with them. Every car has issues with these including the CR it down to how it’s driven and servicing. The PDs can be a bit more temperamental than most as they were not designed for DPFs. There is a handy fix tho🫣😏 - Intake Manifolds are made from crappy plastic which can crack with swirl flaps and need to be removed immediately as they’ll go into the engine. It’s a cheap fix. Get an aluminium one from a BKD PD140 in a scrapyard or buy a refurbished one from DarkSide for 120. No mapping required. - Injector issues was another thing that plagued 170s. They used Siemens systems that tended to fail. A good few were recalled for it and had them replaced as they very expensive to replace. I have a May 2008 model with 180k miles which never had any injector issues and I know plenty with the late 07/08 models that also had no issues which would lead you to believe these models were fitted with the newer revision Siemens units. If they did fail there is a cheap fix also for this by fitting a BKD PD140 fuel system, including the Bosch ECU, Injector loom, and injectors. Other than these bits which if I’m honest can all be sorted cheaply enough there’s not much else to go wrong. Just normal wear and tare. The CR170 has been known to suffer similar issues as those mentioned with exemption of the cylinder head issue. I’ve seen many CR170s suffer injector failure and there is no cheap fix for them as well as turbo failures. The PD170 is more raw than the CR170 where the CR170 is more refined. PD170s also have better tuning potential if ya wanted more than a Stage 1 later down the line. Things get expensive after Stage 1 on a CR170. Finally, I know this will offend some CR170 owners but the Prefacelift (PPD170) is a much better built car than the CR170 (Facelift). Having worked and detailed with both the CR170 and owning the PPD170 this is my experience in them. The metals on the facelift CR170 rust quicker around the sills and wings. The interior plastics on the CR170 are a much cheaper quality and this can be seen noticeably in the rear door cards even the two tone seats feel of a cheaper quality on the facelift. Generally I got into a few CR170s with an open mind but the quality just felt a notch below the PD170. Also in relation to metals, I’ve seen a 2010 and 2013 CR170 where the sills were almost rusted through with half the miles of mine ! (We lived in the same area). The parts can be got cheaper for PD170s than the CR170s also. Fixing wise both are pretty much not too bad. That’s just my experience with them. Fuel economy will be roughly the same if I’m honest probably slightly better on the CR model. For a verdict, if you’re not into cars but want something refined and smooth, get the CR170 but in Blackline Trim with full leather as these are nicest ones. If your like me and into details, tuning, and like PDs but also like a more raw driving experience, then a PD170 is the way to go. If it was a CR170 vs CR184, then definitely CR170 as the CR184s are worse than the CR170s. Hope this helps you man. I’m a bit of a PD enthusiast. Jack Edit: Just noticed you mentioned gearboxes. Would advise to stay away from Automatics as it’s more than likely they won’t have been serviced every 35,000 miles and DSG boxes don’t take kindly to poor servicing. Could end up costing a full gearbox rebuild or gearbox. Manual is the only way anyways ! 😁

The width of a 225/35R19 tyre fitted to 7.5J rim is about 224mm. The width of a 235/35R19 tyre fitted to 7.5J rim is about 230mm. Therefore, the sidewalls will bulge out by about 3mm more each side if you change from 225/35R19 to 235/35R19 on 7.5J rims. However, ETRTO don't approve the fitment of a 235/35 tyre to a 7.5J rim. They specify an 8J rim as the minimum rim width for that tyre size as shown in the chart below. ETRTO approved rim widths 225/35 7.5-8.0-9.0 235/35 8.0-8.5-9.5

I'm experiencing minor issues I suppose, sign of modern motoring I'm afraid, modern smaller turbo charged engines tuned to their emission limits. Something I can live with, as long as my car stays reliable, I'm happy. Thanks for the fuel info, my car is happy on e10, but I'll try some of the premium stuff when it gets colder to see if it makes a difference, if not I'll stick with e10, as I'm acheiving good mpg from it & my car usually runs very well. I've not owned a car yet without a minor niggle here or there.

Yes. Never had a single issue since I took the OBD11 out of the port. try removing any electrical cable or devices out of the port. as an example mobile charger, dash cam etc.

@Phoenixboy You have a pretty new car. You should not have issues, not even the slight ones you do have. You are only about £2.50 a tank more for Sainsbury Super Unleaded 97 min or Tesco Momentum 99, maybe even no more expensive depending where you buy your E10 95 ron. Cold weather is really not that relevant to if you feel any benefit from using it.

You can get them cleaned. Removing it means you are not covered under your insurance policy and may fail on the smoke test come mot time.

@Blueallblueno9welcome to the forum. Enjoy the car when it comes. Do you just need a Boot Liner with a bit that flaps out for the dogs getting in and out to protect the bumper. Maybe a rubber backed carpet runner from B&M, Home Bargains or the likes for much cheapness rather than the ones for sale for the job, not that they are that expensive, plenty on Ebay / Amazon.

As far as I know Octavia doesn't have direct TPMS even as an option.

I successfully rejected my Octavia Mark 4 in 2021, after around 5 months of ownership, due to the software being absolute gash. This is all heavily documented on the relevant forum. Your dealer is talking absolute BS.

Only thing on a 272 I would want in my 280 is the 7speeder. Makes for much lower revs at motorway speeds. The 220 with 6speeder is iirc geared differently to the 280 despite same gearbox and will give less revs too at the same speed. Everything else, the 280 is better IMO I.e. dual injection and of course... Exhaust flaps😂

What matters is that Coasting Function with DSG's works differently with the various TDI's 1.6 or 2.0, then TSI,s 1.4 or 1.5 ACT. then 2.0 Then there are 6 or 7 speed wet clutch DSG's or 7 speed Dry with a TSI with or without ACT.

Old and new. Petrol Kodiaq vRS replaced with Enyaq vRS. Ordered in Feb.

Alloy wheels tend to corrode up against the hubs. Hence we put a bit of grease between them and do not leave them on for 3 years or more from them being fitted at a factory and even with Full Main Dealer Servicing they might never be off for even more than 3 years. Servicing pre or post winter or both is Simply Clever and make sure with cars that if you get a puncture you can change a wheel, which means being able to get it off the car.

No.

So, first thing: JR RS is absolutely right. There are two Eibach Pro-Kits for the Superb, one for the liftback and one for the wagon, with the numbers as he says. I bought the wagon version (for my liftback), despite the retailer saying it was specifically for the lift back. So something to be aware of. The rear springs on the wagon version are 5mm higher than the front springs. However, that mistake turned out to be a blessing, at least for my tastes. (All subsequent measurements in my post are hub to guard) The Superb AWD standard ride height is 380mm, both front and rear. A major issue in my eyes is that the body shape design, when both front and rear ride heights are the same, has a very definite 'nose-down' stance and the back end of the vehicle looks like it's sticking up in the air. If you allow your eye to follow the bottom sill line between the front and rear wheels, it is not level with the ground, with a pronounced slant towards the front. This is a design aesthetic by the Skoda designers and it may not bother some people, but it is something I have never liked. I prefer a car to have a flatter stance. The front springs (F11-85-042-03-FA) in the Pro-Kit deliver a front height of 350mm. The rear springs from the Pro-Kit delivers also 350mm for the lift back or 355mm if you buy the wagon version. In my opinion, 350mm at the front is too aggressive. At least here in SA, crossing spoon drains and even getting up some ramps, it is very difficult to avoid scraping the front underside of the vehicle. I realise this is a personal view and many others may really like that ride height, and that's perfectly fine. I don't believe it fully suits this type of vehicle and it certainly has practicality issues. As I said earlier I also mixed this with wagon springs (on my liftback, because I made the mistake of buying the wrong set, d'oh!), so the rear was sitting at 355mm, and just further accentuating the nose-down, bum-up stance of the vehicle overall. However, I actually really like the rear ride height of the vehicle with those rear springs and I am glad I didn't get the correct kit, as I think 355mm (rather than 350mm) looks perfect. Again, personal opinion. After contacting Eibach Australia and discussing it, I resolved this by fitting revised front springs (F11-85-043-02-FA) which have been discussed in the forum here. I left the existing Eibach rear springs in place. This has raised the front to 370mm. The rear remains at 355mm. I am now happy with the result as it achieves two outcomes: first the front definitely has more clearance and is more practical to drive in everyday situations. Second it has removed the pronounced nose-down stance the vehicle had before and made it sit flatter overall (no more rear end sticking up). Handling changes are almost imperceptible at speed and slightly more compliant over speed humps at slow speed. The gap between tyre and guard is now slightly wider on the front compared to the rear which may play with some people's OCD. But as you can see from the pic above, you really have to be a train spotter to notice and I happily take that given the vehicle now sits flatter in stance overall. As MartiniB states above, you can order separately rather than as a kit, and in hindsight I would have done that from the start.

What tyre pressures are shown on the tyre pressure label inside the fuel filler flap? Maybe you could put up a photo of the label? If you are lightly loaded (ie. just two front passengers) I would try 29psi front and 26psi rear whether using 205/60R16 or 215/55R17. 29psi front tyre pressures and 26psi rear tyre pressures can support a total load of 1596kg using 205/60R16 tyres and 1558kg using 205/55R17 tyres. For a full load (five passengers and their luggage) I would increase the tyre pressures to 32psi front and 35psi rear. That would be enough to support a total load of 1932kg using 205/60R16 and 1886kg using 215/55R17.

Couple of recent photos taken with the roofbox fitted, ready to swallow up all the gear we 'need' for our family trips