Leaderboard

One from this afternoon’s chilly dog walk.

You seem to be asking for a black/white answer which is impossible since the vehicle usage and maintenance patterns vary enormously from country to country and driver to driver. It's all about acceptable level of risk for both the company and the individual: - the company (VAG) only care about two things, costs of a failure during the warranty period and reputation damage of a failure outside of the warranty period from following the 'lifetime' advice. BTW ask any engineer what 'lifetime' means and they will tell you 'until it breaks', so in reality 'lifetime' means nothing. - however owners care about the potential for a big bill for an engine rebuild/replacement in the event of a cambelt failure that will not be covered, or partly paid for, by VAG for not following their advice on replacement. Those lead to completely different levels of risk assessment. Personally I chose to follow the guidance of Skoda UK to change the cambelt at 5 years because I simply do not have the finances to cover the costs of a cambelt failure and I am risk averse, so I wanted to shift the risk to VAG by following their servicing advice. Other people will take a different view of the risk based on their finances and/or their attitude to risk.

Took this on the way to work this morning...........

Look again. Plenty MK2 dsg superbs on autotrader.

Whoops - I also contributed to the off topic matter - I'm just going off to give myself a damn good thrashing and promise never to do it again 😜

Well after a while away from the fold, I moved back across to Skoda in November last year with purchase of a Fabia Monte Carlo TSi. Used as our second car and insurable for my daughter who had recently passed her test. I was really impressed with the Fabia and it reminded me of my Old 2016 Octavia Scout. That car was deemed a total loss following a fairly reasonable prang in November 2020 when someone pulled out in front of me on a main road. I got a 2018 Kia Sportage after that. Decent car but after 6 months it was sold to buy a car my daughter could learn to drive in. I ended up in an absolute mint 2017 BMW 420d MSport. Had all the toys on it, MSport Pro pack, Pro Nav, Harmon Kardon sound system and it was mint. Absolutely lovely to drive, quick, economical, very good looking it was a lovely car. Was being the key word there. It got written off a week ago (🤬😭) when someone didn’t look, pulled out and hit the front of the car. I still can’t quite believe they’ve written it off, but not much I can do about it. Anyhow with fond memories of my Scout and being so impressed with the Fabia, I found myself at the local Skoda Garage putting a deposit down on a late 2018 Superb Sportline 150TDI DSG in Moonstone white. Great looking car and from what I’ve read a good mix of economy and comfort. Had the 150 TDi in my scout and I was always quite impressed with how it drove, always seeming to have more power that you’d expect. Well that’s quite a long intro to ‘I’ve bought a Superb Sportline’ but I’m quite looking forward to getting it. Are there many on here? Be keen to hear of your 5oughts, although if it’s to bad then maybe keep it to yourself, it’s not been a good week!!

Oooops.......I am, of course, mistaken.

Pretty sure they are DQ250's as an option on Superb II's

Skoda do not manufacture belts. They might not even have built the engines. The thing is if you want to go by what they suggest then do that. But be sure who is suggesting what and when and where. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/458348-timing-belt/page/3 Scaremongers. http://www.munichwest.com/2020/01/10/solve-your-volkswagens-timing-belt-problems-in-decatur http://volksmasterltd.co.uk/what-you-must-know-about-cambelt-replacement

I was not after a black or white answer. My point was rather that if I can not find any indication of a failed cambelt in the engine type I have anywhere and Skoda as manufacturer still maintains that the belt does not need changing even they loose revenue and have a reputational risk by doing so, then for the time being I tend to believe they might be right. "Lifetime" in this respect I would understand that it is to be expected that the belt will not fail before the engine is worn out or other major engine components have failed. The fact that they suggest that the belt is first inspected at 210000km indicates that they expect the belt to last at least that long.

Please share with me your secret! As long as it does not involve battery charging, GT85, invasive computer systems or 35mm cubes of old sponge I am up for it 🤣

It's a Mk1 Fabia, now that I've sorted this, something else will go!

Replaced the coolant temperature sensor today, preliminary testing indicates the code has gone, but will do some more runs with the car to see if that is still the case. Photo below is to help anyone who may be looking for the same sensor on their car.

I don't think the cam sensor itself is likely to be the root cause of your problems. You should check the condition of the cam and followers for wear since one bad oil change on a PD engine will wreck the top end.

Which I was not really advising, perhaps rather clumsily clarifying what your actual requirements were for those going off on a tangent. At least we all now know a lot more about a Lotus. 2 pages of posts on a tyre pressure question.

If they could not managed to reset a Service Indicator last year you need to be sure they were using Long Life Oil if you want to be on a Long Life Service Regime. I would suggest if doing around 10,000 miles a year with a TSI you get oil and filter changed annually.

This is your most likely cause of it, if the oil was changed last year and is on your receipt... travel back and get them to reset it correctly this time. If not just live with the warning each time you turn on until May, then drop oil.

You need a new MAF so start there, also replace the CTS, it might be a coincidence that you lost power with the cold weather but I doubt it, if it's still bad replace the fuel temperature sensor in the fuel filter assembly.

Most likely. & most common. Not reset last May. Left running on Variable / Flexible from the service the time before and now wanting an oil change.

What Engine? So did you check after the service what they set it to. It was set or not set properly last May. Fixed @ 9,400 miles / 372 days or Variable 24 months / 18,000-20,000 miles. ? Is this the 1.4 TSI /2013 you asked about the correct oil for in the past? What does last Mays invoice show and do you know if they used 5w 30 FS III so Long Life oil, for variable or fixed services, VW 504 00 / 507 00. or 5w 40 FS for fixed oil and filter services, VW 502 00.

What is the life of a car? i doubt anyone with a 10yr TSi and 130k would have a claim against Skoda if the chain broke & the car would have reached the end of its life..... It cost £380 to do the belt and water pump on my Octavia tdi (independent VW garage) around the cost of a set of tyres and will do another 100k.

I have the EA211 1,2 TSI (105 HP) in my 2015 Octavia III with now about 70000 km and started to wonder about if I should worry about the cam belt. I did remember that when I when I bought the car that the dealer stated the cam belt was good for the life of the car. I found the maintenance documentation referenced also further up where no time limit or mileage limit for cam belt replacement is given. I approached the local Skoda dealership and asked if the factory has changed its view on this and maybe has introduced a recommendation for belt replacement. They checked and replied that the belt is still considered to be for the entire life of the car. I tried to find any indication on the internet that someone had a belt failing in such engine but did not find anything. In comparison, the timing chain problems of the EA111 are all over the place. If Skoda would experience cam belts failing on these engines, I would think they would via their dealer network recommend to replace the belts. This would generate revenue for the factory and the dealerships and avoid possible ****storms and reputational damage that might hit them if cam belt fail despite the manufacturer stating that they will not.

Thx As above, I will go check. and report all the settings - and I'll change the serial number again!

Haynes website. I paid for the online manual.

That is correct, they trot out the same Bravo Sugar to any customer with a problem they cannot be ar5ed to resolve. How can they know that something that does not yet exist will cure a problem that they are unable to find the cause of?

Hello All, I’ve just purchased some AP coilovers for my car after hearing good things about them. Does anyone on here run these and know if I need shortened drop links or not? If I do need them what ones and where do you recommend getting them from. Thanks for any help it’s massively appreciated.

Gotcha, well as far as I can see, the solid fabric cover has been dropped for the above shaped ones. I looked and one had been replaced 5x. This might be a look around on eBay (I tried to find with PN, but no dice) and Roomster parts. The other is to visit scrap yard if they have same year as you.

It doesn't AFAIK Keyless start on the other hand usually has a back up doesn't it, you usually have to hold the key up to the steering column where it can read the rfid like it used to on old school ignition.

Did you manage to get a genuine sensor, Ryan?

That is the whole thing with forums. Like any good conversation the thread wanders off onto other subjects. Nobody is worse for it than me.

Because it's like 'wanting' to become a traffic warden! Also, it genuinely doesn't really bother me any more.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Thank you. I did wonder if that might be the case but a 1990 printed Haynes is the newest I've seen.

It might take you three or four hours to pressurise it but you'd get there in the end! Just visually inspect the boost pipes in case one has popped out of the joint. Ambient air temperature is measured by the the MAF and the MAP sensors, you need a new MAF for sure, but MAP sensors tend not to go wrong. CTS sensors always go wrong and are cheap to replace anyway. Don't talk yourself out of doing something if you're guessing, I'm not guessing I'm applying experience troubleshooting engine problems for forty years.

You may find these days that most garages put in long-life oil for long-life or 1 year fixed servicing. Right now your best bet is still as I said, take it back to get them to reset it until May, or ignore the warnings untill May. Your oil will get you to then no problem. I know some people will change oil every 5k miles, but that's each to their own (maybe based upon older cars from yesteryear?)

Hmmm….

Not quite sure I understand what you are trying to say. If people get timing belts changed does not mean that the belts needed to be changed. If you could point me to a documented case where a timing belt (or tensioner for that matter) on a EA211 1,2 TSI has failed, I'd be grateful.

You can also pop an "upper boost pipe", so you need to check every connection point from turbo to intake manifold...

Just been through months of pain diagnosing the Stop/Start system on mine, only to find it was as simple as an incorrectly coded battery causing the fault. For yours, battery type should be Fleece, 70ah and serial number can be anything except what's currently there.

Right, Got this sorted, thank you for the assistance, much appreciated

Hi Pete, obd reader displayed cylinder 1 replaced all spark plugs & new ignition coil. Took it for a good run best I have felt it ever run more responsive. Good idea keep other replaced coils if any future problems with new. Thanks again, I have seen your responses to other guys on forum very knowledgeable & helpful Len👍

Hi TMB Found it thanks, fixed today fault was cylinder 1 misfiring renewed ignition coil all spark plugs running so much better. Have ordered 2 new coils may as well have all new. Thanks again👍

Well don't listen to that rubbish the best oil to use is fully syn and buy a good quality oil don't use what is the cheapest as many CHEAPoils are recycled or mixed with whatever, driving in this country with the cold weather most of the year myself would use a 5w 30w oil as this will cover most temps, my old fabia mk2 did over 100,000 miles before getting written off by a careless driver --- changed oil filter and oil every year and used the longlife oil as recommened, never used oil betwwen services and engine was used in another car and still going strong today so it does matter what oil you use PS also use a good quality filter not the shop bargin type they don't filter the oil correctly

Nope, it's nonsense, just buy whatevers best value when you need to change it. I prefer fully synthetic but I'm not precious and I'll use semi if it's a lot cheaper. There will be brand fairies along shortly to tell you how important it is but they lack the proper technical education.

The horns are in the top centre grill so wouldn’t effect this. my thoughts on this is (I’m not 100%, just a theory) for certain vehicles classified as high temperature climates they are often given a second radiator located in the wheel arch, this is probably the exhaust for the air that would pass through that radiator if it was to be fitted. ill look into it more at the weekend and see if the parts list any variants. EDIT: As suspected - Additional cooler with PR code 8D4/8D5/8D6/8D7 - 4 and 5 relate to performance reasons (possibly endurance use or police use), 6 and 7 relate to hot climate use. Left wheel arch is for secondary cooler - right wheel arch is for parking heater/webasto

The switch is very imprecise and floppy when selecting the settings. Yes it seems that you are not selecting anything as it flops around. Select a function, for example the R mirror and see if you can adjust the mirror. If so move the rotary switch to the heating mode counting the clicks. It does feel that the switch is broken but it is the nature of the beast. The rear view window is only heated when pressing the button on the dash. The mirrors and rear window are separately heated.

I had Fabia mk2 that had a loose mirror rotating switch and as long as it was turned to the rear position the heater was on. Often forgotten. likely usually broken from the early days when they were stiff. As to heated mirrors, nice, but if not working then use Glass Cleaner / Rain X on them and remember to wipe them, and look in them. we did have decades of no heated mirrors. Obviously if they are there and not working try and find out what the fault is. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/81716-heated-side-mirrors If there are various electrical issues, door loom, switches etc an Auto Electrician can be worth the expense.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Have a look at the Owner's Manual for the car, on my wife's 2015 it's press the 'CAR' button at side of screen, then 'Selection' virtual button on screen to 'Driving data' and arrows to find 'Long term' driving data, after that I forget as I never use the information as it's too much of a guesstimate for me. Once you've discovered it's level of accuracy it might be useful as a loose comparison. As I'm old I just use the old fill to first click of pump, at the next refill fill to first click and note litres, divide by 4.546 for gallons, then divide gallons into distance for mpg. https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models

The cambelt was completed in one day dropped off at 9 and picked it up at 1600, the all in price including vat was £729 , they had refilled coolant as well,had it done at Caffyns Ashford Kent .