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My beastie. They missed off the wireless charger, even though I'd paid for it. So they're going to order it in and retrofit it.

Whoops, I bought a thing. Well... bought is a strong word, received is more likely. A free car is a free car. Wahey. Watch this space, it's typical Fordisms are present, but it's not overly rusty despite being in the state it would make you think it's in. Not going to get my hopes up too much, but it's got potential I hope, as possibly the earliest Mk1 Focus estate in the UK, and the only known 1998 one left that hasn't been scrapped. Ryan.

Big job this evening, getting the tank out. First I pulled the sender to check if it could still work Had to remove the backseat which was just 2 bolts. Pic was taken after everything was out. It's rusty as anything and was stuck in place, a little bit of wiggling saw it moving free. Plugged it back in and confirmed it does work perfectly. Then the tank. Was not a fun job but would have been much harder if this was a 4wd one Had to unbolt the trailing arms to let it down, thankfully every bolt came out very easily. A look at the fuel left in the tank, feral. Drained all out and this is what was left It just seems to be surface rust and sediment. Confident this will clean up easily.

Been busy last couple of days, traction control button wired in as it cannot be disabled on these from factory and coded to work.

Simpler than you'd think! The steel was placed in a vice, mark a line with a marker, small narrow cold chisel and beat small dings tight to each other to stretch the steel. Right up close to the jaws of the vice about 1mm away.Just work that chisel bashing left and right. If anyone needs me to take some photos to help clarify it I can do. That's all there is to it, I think I saw something done like it on youtube and it turned out OK! I'm a hack but there is some inspiring stuff of metal restoration and forming on youtube like this channel.

C'mon, it's just fantastic. The gloss black plastic frame though, could be better - just because it's super hard to keep shiny... but the DSG gear selector is amazing! Like someone said, you can't really please everyone...

I ended up replacing the lower edges of both wings are they too were really rough. Like a Tea-bag! (See above pictures). Not like you'd know it from the exterior though. A dab of filler, seam sealer and primer after this.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Have you checked your 'Owners Manual', from a 2017 (same as ords linked to) there's lots more info in it too, free VWSkoda PDF copy available for download from following link. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models See from your photo below, there's a crescent shaped slit in the trim material where you put the screwdriver through and arc up as in "Fig. 350". Try that first as it very cheap and easy to try and could easily work. I thought toot and others have put its £60 to plug in the diagnostics scan tool, well that's what the tool should be used for as a tool for diagnostics not "here's an error code so this part needs replacing". Even IF it didn't lock because of some error it would probably shut as that part of it is mechanical. Last month I open a neighbour's boot where a bag strap had got caught, that just required pulling a lever and using a bit of brute force (not a lot as I don't have much anyway). I used a diagnostic tool - my head - my eyes and brain (what's left if it and I didn't much before). If you're worried about a scan tool diagnostics you could see if you have a site member near you (where ever that is) that is willing to plug in a scan tool to check for error codes for this (or other stuff), I'm sure they'd ask a lot less than £100, see this link for map. - https://tinyurl.com/yn6mmtyk Finally a video, MK2 but still applies, and more handy hits that might also apply in other videos. -

I wonder if I am alone in this world when it comes to things like this: Permanent fixture on my dashboard is 'Betty Boobs' And permanent passenger is 'Mr. Bones'

Here it is in situ once I got a pic of it today.

So decided to buy different wheels for citigo, initially planned to fit my RHZW1 but after today's test fit I will keep the Schmidt TH Line. 17x8 and 17x8.5 fits bang on, no spacers etc, need to give them good clean and play with tyres as 2 need to be replaced but if everything goes well they may be fitted over the weekend 😁 VID_20230228_164922.mp4

Also fitted a new intake imported from Brazil slight problem with original air filter fitting as the citigo bonnet is slightly steeped where the slam panel is but luckily I had a slimmer one here I can use rest of kit is lovely and incoperates the turbo elbow too

First check would be battery, battery terminals, charging supply / output and alternator connections

I searched thinking there would be a thread like mine but as there wasn't I thought I'd upload some pictures incase it helps someone else out. Hopefully you can see what's involved and what to expect. You "may" get a replacement panel off eBay but I've no idea what it would be like. It wasn't too hard to form a replacement piece out of 20g mild steel. Don't get galvanized, zinc coated or without, as long as you use a Weldthru paint for joins and can squirt some paint into the area once done. Sprayable wax after paintwork too but that really should come after a bodyshop, for obvious reasons. If you've access to a steel folder and guillotine all the better. I didn't but it would have made my job a little cleaner. I haven't welded anything on a car in years! Also don't be surprised to find the bottom of the front wings shot too.... 😕

Thanks a lot! 🙂 The one from a local tuner … for sure it's not the best one, but for its purpose, way enough.

And today was my day 🙂, results in line with the ones from @DutchVRS, I am getting 324,1 HP at 5372 rpm with 492 Nm at 2850 rpm. I would say I have higher torque values due to the fact that I did DSG remap as well. Similar hardware but I am running on SP98 E5. Tomorrow I will test a bit on open road … but from the 20 km coming back home on highway … indeed there is way more throttle response at the same rpm range.

@andriyvp Welcome to the forum. Fire away with the details in the Kodiaq section as to what the Error Codes are and the km done an what servicing or updates it has had if any. @varooomand others on here are a font of knowledge.

Hello Andriy Gaz

Welcome, hope that we can assist with your issues Andriy.

Looks more like RED | WHITE | PINK, though I think some refer to the PINK as PURPLE or VIOLET just to add to confusion. It's possibly either this or this... https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/1k0411105db-suspension-spring-front-axle-sachs-42816.html or this post but both indicate the same part No, https://www.volkswagenforum.co.uk/threads/golf-gt-tdi-springs-part-number-query.38997/

Third mark looks pink or violet not red. If violet it could be 1K0411105DB as seen here (fifth line down in table): LLLParts If you message me your VIN I might be able to confirm, trying out a new to me facility. Edit: wrong link above, should be among one of these two: LLLParts or LLLParts, I think. Same part number for same colours though.

Quick update. Mine went in for second time to have software update to fix the POP POP SOS issue, infotainment rebooting/ stuck on loading etc. They told me that it would 'definitely' fix the issue this time. Had it back for 2 weeks now and went away driving 8hrs for holiday and not a single issue then or since. Software is 1896. Here's hoping. I also realised that the vibration noise was not coming from the dashboard or the binnacle area at all. It was coming from the steering wheel. Skoda obviously didn't really look into it when I originally took it in They have confirmed this now and as it's coming from the vicinity of the airbag module and this a possible safety issue they are going to replace the airbag and ensure everything is tight and secure under warranty. If that works then the car may finally be as it should be.

There's usually a type specific sticker on the inside of the fuel filler flap.

OK my version of OBDEleven did find module A9. Put the volume down to about 50% and we'll see how it goes.

Possibly, I've carved up a list of things I'd love to fit/add to it, but getting an MOT on it is the sensible starting point!

Understood, its quite sad when some companies are blinkered to that, to be honest the cars are a tax incentive for the company, the only winners are your employer and the lease company, you are sadly not, BIK to HMRC!. Oh well, hopefully you will get your car soon 😉

A very good view, so unlike many of the other Youtubers who like the sound of their own voice and drag out 2 minutes of usefull info into 40 minutes. I have subscribed to his channel and look forward to seeing some of the others.

There should be if you go into the settings. press menu button and then there should be an option to turn the screen off. It will turn off after 10 secs from the last touch/ change of station volume.

According to the portal I access to get updates on my new car (ordered via works lease scheme Sept 21) my car was due to come “into stock” at the dealer yesterday and they are meant to be contacting me to arrange delivery. I’m going to chase for an update tomorrow as I’ve heard absolutely nothing, and I fully expect to be told there’s been another delay. It’s the hope that kills you isn’t it😄

They were three cans for £10 at Wilco. And I have paid £2 a can but can't remember from where, I got two cans, gave one away to a neighbour and with the other I forgot to put the cap back on and it had just about emptied itself being wedged in the side of a plastic box I was using to transport the items I needed to do a little job somewhere as a favour to a mate, if only I'd let him pack away the stuff I could have blamed him. 😄

Not necessarily, if the Grandfather rights apply: https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/electric-bike-guides/uk-electric-bike-law/ We've now had two with a 'full' throttle that can be ridden quite legally. I've a feeling David at Amps has managed to get some of the new Wisper bikes type approved for throttle use: https://wisperbikes.com/shop/e-bikes/crossbar-ebikes/tailwind-comfort-crossbar/ Gaz

If any of you interested Racingline stage1 remap give you about 257kw on 98ron program. If you choose 95ron program you have about 15-20hp less power. These numbers is on stock car. Lower torq program

Hi everyone! I am new to this forum. I own a Skoda Kodiaq 2019 with 1.5 TSI (DADA) engine, DSG transmission, front-wheel drive. I love the car overall due to many different reasons. But lately I have been having a few strange error codes appear with EPC light coming on, hence I will post a few specific questions in the relevant sections hoping for your support. Thanks a lot in advance, and happy to become a member of this community. Regards, Andriy

How did you form the swage lines? The rest was once my daily bread and butter in a previous life so brought back lots of memories and was very familiar, the swage line would have been beyond me though. I have a hand held joddler and also a V bender for the hydraulic press but neither would do a swage line away from the edge of a panel.

I have succeeded to enable the GEM and installed MIB toolbox to enable Carplay. Thanks again @varooom If anyone stumbled upon this thread in the future: yes you can enable GEM through OBDeleven, and no you don't need any specific codes. - Go to menu 5F (Multimedia) - Then go to 'Change service' and change it to 'Development mode' - Then go to 'Adaptation', click on 'Developer mode' and then click 'Activated' - Then confirm the change with the button in the lower right corner - Finally hold the power button on your MIB2 unit to restart it Now there should be an option called 'Test mode' in the service menu, when you press that the first option will be the Green Engineering Menu.

I personally would be going down the dq250 route but that is because they charge an absolute bomb to fix the dq200 mechatronics and the kevlar clutch packs which run more power and don’t wear as fast are also around 800-900 pound , lancs transmission in bury do fix dq200’s all the time so maybe worth giving them a buzz , but fitting a dq250 is pretty plug and play , all that is needed custom is a gearbox mount, and you need to cut the dq200 connector and fit the dq250 connector in its place , you also need to change the gear selector . you will need a pre 2012 dq250 (I used a golf 2008 mk5 GT 1.4 tsi gearbox) but nearly all dq250’s have the same bolt pattern apart from the R32 dq250 . Starter motor with gearbox . gear selector for dq250 . flywheel for dq250 I used a single mass but it’s a bit jittery so for everyday driving would reccomend the oem dual mass one . driveshafts for mk1 fabia I got new ones from AUTODOC for £150 .custom gearbox mount

Here are the only choices for a 2010MY VRS Saloon So it can only be 1K0 411 105 DB, with a red/white/violet mark

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Lloyd, hi, welcome, if you fully read and when required refer to the 'Owner's Manual' for your car you will then know more about it than many long term owners and some at garages. A tip with these cars is to keep the car battery from getting into a low state of charge, even if the car starts and the lights seem bright enough and there are not yet any warning lights or messages the car battery can still be in a low enough state of charge to upset the computers and they can throw up all sorts of unexpected issues. Just driving the car is not always enough to keep the car battery in a good state of charge and some owners find the use of an appropriate battery charger and maintainer can help with charging or better still prevent issues from a low battery. I think these handy videos feature a 2017 model and give info (much of it also in the Owner's Manual'), they reminded me of some things I'd forgotten I'd read in the 'Owner's Manual'. -

Please don't all gang up on me......it's a genuine question, I'm not trying to be a smart arse. Why would you downshift to 1st while still moving?? I have put over 1,000,000kms on two seperate cars with the 6spd wet DSG box....... and that is something I would never have felt the need to do.

Nice one

Turns out it was the cambelt afterall. Tension was waaay off on the old belt, new belt/tensioner & waterpump fitted today has fixed this. Thanks for your replies

Clamped into place, it's almost in the right position, just needs a tap with a hammer here and there. Started tack welding it in, using a broken seam / pulse welding so the weld runs around the complete repair. Hopefully your repair will as good as this, if not better. Mindful to keep the horizontal line on the sill as straight as possible. The patch is also attached through the plug welds to the inner sill, don't forget that one. Still got the lower edge of the wing to repair of course but that's a simple enough one. It stil needs more grinding at this point but I'm waiting on a finger grinder (power file) to get into the corners. Near impossible with round discs! And this one gives you an idea of how much the patch went in, I really couldn't leave the corrosion in. Once the wing is repaired I'll add the smallest amount of filler, prime and reseal the lower sill edge to keep the rust out. So that update with paint to come at some point but this is awkward job really, the rest is pretty straight forward really. Hopefully these pics give others an idea of what to expect and how I went about with the repair. Rich

Part 2 of the sill welding With the patch almost ready I added the lower lip to the repair piece. Holes for the spot welds drilled along the bottom edge and where it touches the inner sill section. Sprayed the inside with a weld-thru zinc primer and offered into place with some Molegrips. ...and that's all I can show you as I'm out of storage space! 😕 But it's all welded in nicely and welds ground back. Went in pretty nicely really.

They sell repair kits for this on eBay, I used on before on a Polo that had failed I wouldn't even know where the next connection is, maybe even all the way back to the washer bottle 🤣

Probably the delivery pipe is blocked at the elbow about 4” below the nozzle. Suggest you try this….

Mine will be 10 years old in May and I've no plans to replace it in the foreseeable future. By coincidence the motoring columnist in The Oldie was discussing changing cars and came to the conclusion that in most cases repairing the car you have will be cheaper than the cost of change. And as pretty much all "modern" cars have all the gadgets most people could reasonably want or use (and I can't be alone in having extras that I never use) all the time a car meets your needs is there is any real benefit in changing?

Ours has all those options, apart from the auto boot close from inside the car, but you can close it with the key fob when you goto put the trolley back at Aldi and, of course, the virtual dash… it just has a real one. Now, I can normally justify myself into spend on most things, but I just can’t on the retro fit of that as the benefits do not outweigh the outlay. Oh yes, it has ventilated front seats too; the way our weather is going, believe me when I say you should add those to your (must) list. If you have electric seats with memory on a Superb, via VCDS/OBD11 one can set the drivers seat to easy exit/entry which reverses the drivers seat base by around 5” (see, I did that conversion for us baby boomer imperial old folk!) and also uprights the seat back for you automatically once you switch off the ignition, thus making exiting and entering the car far easier than having a flat tyre wheel. You can also set a seat memory button to lower the seat. I set button #3 to do this. The manufacturers marketeers added these cos they thought they look “cool”. Whilst they actually serve a purpose in your case (as long as you remember to centre the wheel with at the flat bottom at… er… the bottom, I’m guessing?) their actual purpose they were originally designed to help with is irrelevant in any road car. Its a bit like go faster stripes from the ‘70’s/‘80’s, twin exit add-on exhaust ends and shoving bonnet vents on a fuel injected car, IMO they just look daft…🤦🏻‍♂️

They are great cars. Have you the latest software on your radio? There are also updates for the DSG. Perhaps a reset would help. I love the Octavia as yes they arent the best car out there. But value for money they are outstanding. I am on my third Octavia now and still cannot find a car to beat it.

In the UK it's 5 years for Skoda but elsewhere in the world, or for the same engine in an Audi I recall VAG say it's 120,000 miles but inspect at services. Personally on our old 2001 Fabia we did 80,000 miles on the first cambelt with no issues and on our current 2007 Octavia, where the recommendation is 4 years, have been changing it at 5 or 6 years, again with no issues. I'm aware of the risks but accept those given the value of the car. At 5 years and 16,000 miles I'd be tempted to decline the cambelt change and may be look at getting it done much more cheaply at an independent specialist in a year or so.